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Our Fabia turned 20 last December I think. Still does A to B admirably, and I really don't give that many effs at all what anyone else thinks of it.

You are supposed to buy a newer car when you want to buy a newer car - it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks or says. When looked after and maintained properly cars will go on for years and years. Generally speaking with newer cars there is so much more to go wrong than with an older model, and the maintenance costs are higher the newer the car so keep enjoying your Fabia until you feel is the right time to replace it.

My last two vehicles owned for 19 years and 18 years, current fabia owned for 4 years hopefully for another 10, all bought and paid for, I agree that this must be the most sustainable / green 🙄 way of ownership. Keep them well serviced and clean

I am now looking for making a download link. I think in 30 min of will be there

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pHhf05ZfCgSUHKWJjW2IAlHXzhsgcllg/view?usp=drive_link Guys this is my first time to share a link with the new 1989 software. Don't be mad if it's not correct. Let me know i try again. It is 9gb winrar file. Unpack only copy meta and data to a usb-c stick. The instructions to download can be found on this beautiful forum here. Please let me know if it works

Not that I'm aware of. My Octavia (mk1 Elegance TDi) was first registered 23 years ago.

The most eco car you'll ever buy is the one you keep the longest I believe is the thinking

There was a 2.0l 4x4 it came out towards the end of the MK3 model run. If I'd waited 6 months I would've had one 2.0TSI 190 SE L 4x4 Has Arrived.... - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020)

I got just the new software version 1989. Curious what's it is gonna bring. Already satisfied with 1985 but i love gadgets and up to date materials. One thing from the beginning with software 1969 til now mine park to pay or pay to park still not working. But i am not using that anyway to prices of parking are ridiculous. So i hope this one is even better then 1985 we will see.

Absolutely nothing wrong with your approach if it provides what you need in a vehicle, is reliable and you aren't constrained by LEZ etc. taxes. Your vehicle may even become a classic one day.

This month I am quite proud because my Fabia has just reached 20 years old. I mentioned this to a friend and his reply was 'isn't it time for a new one then'. This sentiment has also been heard in different forms from neighbours, family and, colleagues and the dealer I bought it off (they did finally gave up). Honestly though I'm happy as the day I bought it (was 3 years old) and keep it clean and maintained. But it's like from reactions I'm doing something wrong and I end up having to explain why I haven't bought something newer. My only explanation is I'm happy with it still so why change but they are unconvinced. What's your thoughts? Is running a car and keeping it clean / maintained for as long as possible so odd? Genuinely interested.

Came across a fly on an apple earlier - guessing it's feeding?

So, my opinion on this. I've spent some time looking into the subject of start-stop, battery coding, etc. In my opinion, it really doesn't matter whether it's coded or not. I even drove with a conventional lead battery but an efb was set up, and absolutely nothing happened. I tried various data sets, but it made no difference. The only thing that killed the battery after 2 months was when there was no data set at all on the gateway. Back then, I used it daily, with a minimum of 60km a day.... Regarding voltage, 12.5V when driving is completely normal, that often happens when overrunning and when the SoC is at a good 80-85%.

If it is still working fine, why even think about a newer car unless of course you really want one. It really is far greener to run an older car for as long as you possibly can as the only CO2 it generates is from the fuel used. I wonder just how many of the current new cars will make it to the 20 year mark, and they do create far more CO2 during the manuefacturing process, to say nothing about the increased CO2 generated during the transportation half round the world with the battery materials.

So installed and went good like the other 3 updates did by myself. Now I must test the new firmware.

The only LED lights that work properly are the ones from Kopachek - https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-front-mega-power-led-dome-lights-ki-r-v2-round I've found they are the only ones that are compliant with the CANBUS network.

Had a fault which knocked out my Air Con - wouldn't blow cold and when I took it to be recharged the centre said the Air Con pully wasnt engaging, you could actually see it not spinning when you looked at it despite the Air Con being on and no error messages. I didnt think it was the AC compressor at fault as this had been replaced with a new one a few years ago. Other faults at the same time were the auto-Dimming rear mirror had no power regardless of where the switch was and the oil temp sensor was not returning any values and throwing the occasional error code. The faults were all related - they are on the same wiring section and have a common fuse (which was ok) the issue was only apparent when I had a look at the Air Quality Sensor under the windscreen cowling at the front passenger side, I dont know when it started failing but it was very whiffy of burnt electricals. I've hands like shovels so just unplugged it without taking all the footery gubbings apart first. just removing the burnt out air quality sensor seemed to clear the path and everything else started wotking as normal. Initially leaves a fault code B10A415 Signal wire for air quality sensor, Open Circuit/Shart circuit to B+ but that cleared when I replaced it. Its worth a swatch if you have the same faults. Keith

These made a tremendous racket 😁

Hello all Hi from Ireland 🇮🇪. Collected my new cosmic 💚 octavia rs. Mk4 Said good bye to my m3 rs also

We have both a Fabia and Karoq and the seat to pedal position is quite different, the Fabia is typical small car whereas the Karoq is an SUV with a more upright seating position so maybe raising the seat height may improve the leg to clutch position. Both our cars are DSG, but the DSG is a bit “marmite” - I like Marmite and the DSG!

Give us the updates 😁 from 1806 to 1941 found a lot of differencees

I'm guessing that, as you suspect, it's general advice. Perhaps an over-dramatic warning that without the engine running, the battery will eventually go flat.

I thought it best not to hang the back box on whatever joints are up the front end of the thing so I tried to get a jack stand under but it was too big, but lol this bit was the right length. Witness the crimes committed with wire and snapped rubber: This is NOT a place of honour: I had to tickle the mount with an angle grinder to get a generic rubber on, but on it is and if it tries to escape it can have a washer welded on the end to capture it FOR EVER... or maybe some allthread welded on and a nice nyloc nut or something i don't know. it's not escaped yet so i don't need to plan. At least the half rotten system now sits neatly into the bumper relief dingle and it's one more stupid job ticked off the list of infinite tasks.

Wait... I write

Only just come across this thread. I will be watching with interest. Great work and perseverance. :) I know what you mean about the welding (lying on your back getting burns from sparks like bad wasp stings!) And what you often start with can look pretty scary. I had a poorly repaired sill rot out on my T5 van after 10 years. This is what it looked like after a dig around with a screwdriver.. Old sill cut out Second hand sill (body cut) welded in. I was lucky my rust was so limited so kudos to you for sticking at it with yours. 👍 You will get there and not many folks will be able to match your story in the pub! :)

If anyone finds a download link or finds a way to get it, please let us know here.

This holiday is basically over, truck work wise. I'm back to the labour mines on Monday so 'progress' (LOL) will slow again, but I might be able to afford more welding gas :/ Tiny victories: FIXED! CL servo for the driver's door installed. found the tab on the lock mech for the CL and got a wire in it, that then popped out later. Look, the window doesn't hit it :D I need to check the DRO on the mill is accurate and make a bell crank to go around the corner. Hey look the spare is a YOKO! And it's on the wear stops :( I need to drop that and give the bracket some care!

I'm guessing that the "AC operator" is the evaporator - which is where the Fridge system chills the cabin air, that ties in with needing to work behind the dash, or remove it. I'm guessing that is what is wrong with my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but that is just a guess, I really should get it professionally leak/pressure tested instead of thinking the worst!

Skoda

I have seen a reference to a failed Air Quality sensor preventing AC from operating.

Thanks for reply. 'Not holding charge' was told to me by Kwikfit after dropping it in for an ordinary recharge with them. They didnt specify, which is why I have it in with another mechanic presently. Its he that says the controller unit is at fault. The vents work great when normal heating is engaged. No problem there. Its just no cooling operation is possible currently. A bit of chatGPT seems to suggest the module J255, which is part of the driver facing A/C control display apparently. Have you ever encountered failures with that that would nix the actual cooling operation of the system? V grateful.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You say your 'aircon isn't holding recharge' Who told you that? Do you mean it is losing gas charge - how was this determined? 'AC Operator' sounds like BS to me - unless they are referring to air duct flaps - AFAIK, the operation of these can be tested via. the vehicles OBD port. Do the air vents appear to work correctly when the heater is used?

Hi, @Richgeorge and welcome. In the Yeti (or any forum) click the 'Start New Topic' tab and go from there. It's pretty straightforward https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/151-skoda-yeti/

Quite a few 2.0's 4X4s for sale here in Germany. There also apears to be the odd 1.5 (1,498CC) plus 1.8 TSI's https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?dam=false&dt=ALL_WHEEL&fr=2014%3A&ft=PETROL&isSearchRequest=true&ml=%3A90000&ms=22900%3B10%3B%3B&ref=dsp&s=Car&vc=Car https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?cc=1400%3A2000&dam=false&dt=ALL_WHEEL&fr=2014%3A&ft=PETROL&isSearchRequest=true&ml=%3A90000&ms=22900%3B10%3B%3B&ref=dsp&s=Car&vc=Car

Thanks, so you have engine code DKZA. That's a start, suggest that your next action is to get any recorded DTCs read.

I'm guessing the situation will be the same as it was on our Mk2 Octavia 4x4 in that Skoda will only sell you the coupling with a propshaft attached and not just the coupling - hence the price? As to the coupling I think a few people have done these now on various models but not the Kodiaq. My question is is it causing a droning noise at speed under load - so say around 2300 RPM in top and more noticably under load and when accelerating? If not then it's probably OK for a while yet as that droning was the first indication of it having issues on our Octavia. Having said that it started at about 70,000 miles and we continued to run the car to about 115,000 miles with no issues - just the noise. In the end we didn't bother to replace the coupling as the car started with other issues that were going to cost more to fix than the car was worth. However, a local VAG specialist was up for replacing the coupling alone, having done similar on an Audi A3, and that was just the coupling alone using a Febi (I think from memory) pattern part at about £100.

From checking stored faults before and after main dealership servicing, Audi, SEAT and Volkswagen, I've considered that "diagnostics check included" means if no MIL on then that box gets ticked. "Check for updates" - carried out by service reception person - no customer complaints noted = no point in checking. Admittedly a very down beat take on things, but main dealerships do tend to grind you down quite quickly, which is probably why anyone that can do their own car work does it, and those that can't suck it up - or move to proper garages for getting work done.

I would not say is under-engineered, I think just like most things nowadays is designed by a fresh mind who plays mostly on simulations on a PC, or even worse, gives generic statements to some "AI CAD" and then passes on whatever designs comes out, and obviously on a budget controlled by someone that does not have an idea with side turns a left-hand screwdriver .... 🙄 Result is as expected. It simply needs a cover for the darn hole in the bumper where the hitch resides. Curiously, neighbour's Tiguan has a similar retractable mechanism and after many years his is flawless, which means probably in Wolfsburg they had more budget ... or better "AI CAD" 😁

I've replaced several throttle bodies for people with used ones and they have never required re adapting, the engine takes a few minutes to return to normal idling speeds.

I had one as well (2.5 XteN version) but it had the slower auto box. Drove well but my 2.0 Turbo PPP Impreza wagon is still borderline hilarious when I let it out on a dry day 😉

Well you did it properly haha! I was B&H and then a lot of time on practically-empty Silk Cut Silver. I used to when I was a lot younger but the drivers window was always fully open (or cracked and the cigarette held out the window if it was raining) and I only ever really had ash smell largely from the rear of the car. It’s a wild thing to do and as you see makes for an awful leftover. The thing I would say about a leather steering wheel: look at it up close, like really close. The grain means there are lots of channels and edges facing different ways. So when cleaning, small circles moving around with the brush as it’s most likely to sweep all of the different faces and edges. No big sweeping moves as the bristles will just flick over most of it.

These companies keep up to date with more modern leather (or faux leather). Also, it’s better to use a specialist leather company like Gliptone, Colourlock or Leather Repair Company, than a generic detailing product company that has interior products.

Bin them, before they upset something!

All of that aside, the car you are describing doesn't exist. No 2.0 EA888.3 came with Haldex. There was a 1.8 EA888 that was AWD (pretty rare AFAIK) but that was a PFL model only anyway. Not to be unhelpful, but I do agree with the above. You need to be able to see what codes have been thrown, otherwise we can't help you. an EPC/EML can be anything! You can likely get OBD11 delivered tomorrow if you buy it now on Amazon.

Yes, but it shortens the life of the battery. In the UK a shop that fits batteries would be able to code the new battery for you. Thanks. AG Falco

On the Superb MK3, non-standard 225/50R18 7Jx18 ET43 5/112 57.1 wheels could be used with 10mm spacers. This will change the effective offset of the rims from ET43 to ET33. Make sure the spacers are hubcentric, so that the wheel is centred on the hub. With 10mm spacers, the wheel bolts need to be 10mm longer. Perhaps look at Eibach spacers and wheel bolts. The standard WHT001812 wheel bolts have a specification of M14x1.5x27 Eibach M14x1.5x27 wheel bolt S1-6-14-50-27-17 (standard length) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/1931742 Eibach M14x1.5x37 wheel bolt S1-6-14-50-37-17 (10mm longer than standard length) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/15258679?search=EIBACH+Wheel+Bolt+%28S1-6-14-50-37-17%29 Eibach 10mm wheel spacers S90-2-10-027 (5/112 57.1) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/1931843?search=EIBACH+Wheel+spacer+%28S90-2-10-027%29

Evo adored the Yeti and quite a few motoring journalists have owned a Yeti or two over the years. It sits with the Subaru Forester as being unique in their offering at the time of sale. I loved my 2007 Forester Turbo and I love my pre facelift 2013 Yeti Tdi L&K 😎

Re the throttle body, if its like my Polos, then if you press the accelerator with just the ignition on, the throttle valve should open fully. You should also be able to move off by just releasing the clutch pedal without leg on the accelerator and also go up a fairly steep incline in first gear without any accelerator.

Most of these issues are to do with MIB3, which is pretty rubbish. I have no real issues with MIB2.5, aside from the occasional CarPlay glitch. Certainly, it wouldn't stop me from getting one. The EA888.3 has the usual water pump issues. As long as any car you get has had the DSG done at 40k and the VAQ done at 20-30k (if the car is over that) then you should be fine. The DQ381 has it's fair share of issues too, but I've found mine to be very reliable. The boot vents can sometimes leak, as in my Leon, but this is a £40 fix. Likewise with the pan roof becoming blocked. I've found mine likes to ruin it's tracking quite quickly, which is an issue with these cars. The only two real issues I've had to sort have been replacing a rear caliper (paint flaking - you can just use hammerite) and getting a vibration with the Soundaktor sorted. Any issue with these cars are shared across the MQB range, so there are plenty of people documenting them.

Just unplug the EGR valve to start it.