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Two Octopus notable time slots coming up this weekend 24th -26th Octy. Free electricity 9pm to 10 pm tomorrow, the 24th of October and Dont forget the hour going back 2 am becoming 1 am means, with Octopus Go and perhaps other tariffs, an extra hour of 8.5p, 7p etc per kwh cheap lecky ! Get ready to fill you boots (ie batteries car and home)

hi all just new here . i'm from center of france near limoges just buy a skoda felicia pickup lxi 1.3mpi with a very low km of 78000km

Glad to hear I was right 😜

Hi there - funnily enough have just heard from Skoda, who have agreed to cover the cost of the door seal - am speaking with them tomorrow to clarify a couple of points, so shall update further after that 👍

Maybe there might be a reduced 62 MPH (100KM) or even to 100 MPH time. But then again the car might show as having only 80% available power and there is no actual reduced standing sprint to 62 mph. ICE cars, performance or not can have the reduced performance with Heat Soak', or at altitude or when not up to efficient temperature, or just on less than their optimum octane rated fuel.

I think Not to the extent that the ev doesn't work normally. Whatever it's top bhp was would be reduced so things like 0-60 times would be slower. Maybe instead of 3sec it would be 8. I watch Kyle Connor on youtube and he does track days etc in the 90s centigrade on his own circuit. Studies all the data has he goes. When limited performance comes up on the screens he can still drive normally. He does road trips to Vegas challenging many evs in high temperatures through The Eisenhower tunnel and the cars don't drop from his set speed goal of 75mph

We were talking about a coding change, which cannot be done on newer vehicles. For sure there are gizmo's on ali express that can do what you have done, they probably also void your warrantee.

I believe if one scrolls back a few yrs of this thread to circa 2018/19 I got a Tipo in Northern Italy when we went to Venice. It was grand. Drive grand. Felt grand. Was kitted grand. Fit the at the time 3 of us and the bags and baby crap. I do see the very very odd one around from time to time but they are a rare vehicle this far up Northern Europe. Edit - page 1! The first round of this thread 😆

Update. Replaced with a used module from eBay a couple of days ago, part number the same but other identifiers different, and engine light is off for now! Fingers crossed that's it sorted, now need to fix the wheel arch liner!

User setting / privacy and settings / and disable online personalisation

Been away for a while but here are the codes, if anyone wants to take a look. All the other ones I posted above are inactive/not cleared from the past. Car Scanner ELM OBD2 Version: 1.121.0/1.121.0/iOS DTC report Connection profile: Skoda MQB: TSI/TFSI EA888 Gen.3 (1.8L; 2.0L >200 hp)Date: 10/20/2025 3:45:01 PM VIN: TMBAE9NE5F0xxxxxxx ============================ OBD-II No DTC found. ============================ 19. CAN Gateway No DTC found. ============================ 09. Onboard supply control unit No DTC found. ============================ 02. Transmission control unit02. Transmission control unit DTCs: 1 ---------------------------- 10763 [0x002A0B] P173400: Starter release from the selector lever sensor system Status: Test failed (current drive cycle) ============================ 03. ABS control unit No DTC found. ============================ 01. Engine control unit01. Engine control unit DTCs: 1 ---------------------------- 15077 [0x003AE5] Archive (inactive) P050700: Idle Control System, RPM Higher than Expected Idle Control System RPM Higher than Expected P050700: Idle Control System, RPM Higher than Expected Status bits: 1 Priority: 2 Frequency: 1 Unlearning index: 255 Odometer: 171118 km Date, time: 2025.10.17 12:17:39 Engine RPM: 1018 rpm Calculated engine load value: 8.63 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Engine coolant temperature: 83 ℃ Engine oil temperature: 41 ℃ Barometric pressure: 99 kPa Klemme 30 voltage: 14 Paramteric values: 20 96 20 11 0E 02 11 EC 02 11 DC 03 45 11 ED 1F 10 A6 01 9D 11 EE 1A 11 DB 05 D7 Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

I’m not sure the extra hour applies does it. I thought they had a get out. Willing to be wrong, but better to check.

Sorry, range is most certainly an issue. Mostly because of broken chargers or inconsiderate twits going to 100% in their eqs. Big problem with SUV is the slab nose and the height at which they ride. Most cars have a raked bonnets at a lower height. A generic SUV is pretty much a blunt force at the head/ribs or hips of whoever is hit, folding them at 90 degrees or shoving them forward. Look at a RR or a Q7 or a GLE and see how highly they area. Same goes for an EX90, q6 etron. Same goes for any pickup truck. Compare the to a car or size wise to a mk1 Land Rover. I would say weight and bonnet height/angle are major problems across the board.

It could also be the connection to the cluster. If the ECU can't read cluster it may well put imobiliser on. I would start with a known good battery first. Alasdair

Not so much today, but rather this past weekend, took my Superb on it's first international run. Went to a retro computer show in Munchengladbach, a 700-mile round trip from North West London via the Channel Tunnel, France, Belgium and Holland before getting into Germany. Did the whole trip on one tank of petrol, with 100 miles range to spare. Car reckoned I got 52MPG on the trip.

I agree a failing battery can cause loads of electrical glitches. The cars dont seem to like low voltage. If its 16 years old you have done very well. Sons fabia was similar then one day no start at all. Put battery on charge overnight and seemed to take charge. Next day no start again. New battery and no problems since. Had same in my Octavia. Older cars seemed to cope better but with modern ECU etc low voltage can cause loads of problems.

It will be the cardon shaft between the gearbox and the Haldex unit/rear diff. One of the balancing weights has been thrown off. Get it into a Skoda/VAG specialist for them to have a look. Not good to keep it that way for long as it will put strain on the couplers/mounts.

For car integration with supplier, you wouldn't need to do anything with the app if your ready-by time never changes. Simply plug in and they take care of everything. Make sure to leave charge point in dumb "charge any time" mode. IOG (or EOn) will poll the car and work out it has plugged in, stop the charge and create a schedule. I have a thread that I keep up to date on SpeakEV for all the lowest EV specific tariffs if it's of any use List of EV Tariff for 2.5p/mile motoring | Speak EV - Electric Car Forums

Hi Stanley and welcome to Briskoda. I remember experiencing the same 'sold right away' feeling when I took my first ever test drive in a Skoda. That was sixteen years ago and I've owned Skodas ever since. Enjoy yours

Not sure if this is the best thread to use or not but I'm just looking at the EON Next Drive Smart tariff which has a 6.5p/kWh charging rate from 00.00-06.00 but also offers smart charging outside of this time at the same rate and says you also get the cheap rate for your house as and when you are smart charging. Just interested to know if anyone knows how this works in practice to see if I'll likely be able to take much advantage of the cheap rate for household usage too. I don't need to charge much at home but could change this a bit if it meant I could drop my bill a bit.

Hi, welcome. Been a few new members perhaps new to decades old cars and ownership of them so getting real life information from current owners and a couple who have owned them from brand new is more than just useful. Obviously there are variations in models in different countries but most things are common. If you have not already done so have a look and perhaps ask in the Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ Good luck.

It is one of those switches that relies on a coating on the plastic or rubber. Once they start being intermittent they fail soon after. Replace.

Sadly not my day 😕, but I remain ever the optimist… somehow…. Someday…. Someone 😁 We’ve got a Tipo for sale in a garage I cycle by. Tbh I didn’t realise what it was, but I thought it looked a nice enough little car 👍 G

What Evo and Stone said. WRT not maintain speed up a really long hill, if there is a fault with cooling system, yes power may be reduced causing problem maintaining speed. Power will also be reduced without any fault when very low SoC. Almost all EV will have available power (both drive and regen) indication. gen 1 Leaf is the bubbles, Tesla is the dotted lines. Due to ultra efficient nature of EV's, during normal driving and normal AC charging, excess heat isn't the problem. I have driven our gen1 Leaf like I stole it in 35c and never see thermal throttle, only went up to 6 bars. Generally EV battery cooling are designed for rapid charging or track use. Day to day, the coolant only circulates to ensure even temeprature across the cells. So you'll need a really really long hill or be driving like on a track to really need the battery thermal management. The ONLY case where I think there may be a cause for concern is during rapid charging. Let's say if there is a coolant leak in the radiators, Tesla pre-heats the battery to over 50c using motors as resistive heater, then during rapid charging coolant leaks out when going through the radiator. But I believe the car/BMS would be smart enough to detect the fault and shut off rapid charging, thus instantly stop adding energy into the system.

Yes. But not all BEV,s are the same in say the past 15 years of production. Reduced power available is really quite common in cold conditions, very hot conditions and even in the state of charge in the battery, not just small amounts of a reduction in certain cases. Just look at the various Vehicles, battery sizes, performances etc. 50 % available power reduction with many a BEV even less powerful ones might still mean a decent acceleration and max speed is still available. PS. A power meter / gauge or message / read out is pretty much standard to show available power.

VAG, including Skoda, has a long history of shark fin GPS antennas letting in water (I can remember problems with the Audi A6 back in 2005) so I would definitely not rule out hardware problems.

Clear pink , not murky / cloudy

She is indeed on 225/50 x 17 on a 7.5J - You are very observant Andre 😉- Perfect size for Ireland - Roads around us are rough - I do prefer a car that is a bit harder around the suspension (next job whatever time)- Great comfort with the 17" Trifid wheels Thanks very much to you all for your kind compliments on my ramblings - the original intention was just to have a record of the trip so that one day when I'm long gone our kids can enjoy the story and get a laugh. I did let a few of my workmates read it and they said I should put it up here - I'm glad now I did !! We have her now through the NCT as well with no advisories - Well the tyre pressure monitor was on but I think that was due to the brake test they do threw it out. She will be going nowhere now and that's for sure

Gandalf had a downpipe & tunes switched yesterday. 😁 Now running Galano Stage 2, producing 241 kw 516 Nm (at the wheels) on the dyno. i switched ECU and TCU tunes from APR to Galano so i could satisfy my downpipe itch. Green - factory setup with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 178 kw / 380 Nm Blue - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 221 kw / 519 Nm Purple - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 234 kw / 503 Nm Red - Galano Stg 2 ECU + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 241 kw / 515 Nm NOTE: these r "at the wheels" power reading, not the engine.

@nta16, thx m8 👍

the cross over has been done!!! woOot switched ECU and TCU tunes from APR to Galano so i could satisfy my downpipe itch. Gandalf is now running Galano Stage 2, producing 241 kw 516 Nm (at the wheels) on the dyno. comparison of dyno numbers below. torque is down but that's because i had the "Hi-torque" version of the APR tune before. APR stopped doing Stage 2 many many years ago, which meant no APR downpipe options. hence my switch to Galano so i could get the IE downpipe. its only Day 1, so i haven't had a chance to properly test it out, but initial thoughts r:- car throttle response is a lot more eager, likely due to the IE downpipe with less restriction. the take-off/launch is much much better thanks to Galano's "boost-by-gear" trickery for FWD cars like mine. car keeps giving more power as i go up the rev range the exhaust note, thanks to the addition of the IE downpipe with the RPM resonator delete pipe, is much better now on idle and sounds really nice when giving it the beans!! will try get a sound clip soon. compared to the APR TCU tune, the Galano TCU tune holds the gears a bit longer. i'll need to get used to this. gear changes r still smooth, upshifting or downshifting. Dyno lines explained..... Green - factory setup with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 178 kw / 380 Nm Blue - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 221 kw / 519 Nm Purple - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 234 kw / 503 Nm Red - Galano Stg 2 ECU + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 241 kw / 515 Nm with 1 & 2, u can see Gandalf running out of puff much earlier, compared to 3 & 4 where it is holding for longer, thanks to the intercooler. NOTE: these r "at the wheels" power reading, not the engine.

@wyx087 I was looking at this document, and it certainly looks more complicated than the cooling for ICE, especially as the document states the danger of not keeping the battery pack at the optimal temperature, risks a dangerous thermal runaway event of the battery. EV Battery Cooling - How Does It Work? — Lectron EV

Same problem on my car, the antenna was bad, it's a known problem that it takes in water and then makes the GPS all wild, soon after the SOS-button goes red also.

Honestly can't remember the last time I saw a Tipo and would have been the last guess from me. (well, almost but nobody's got an Aventador. Yet.)

I've got a 55 plate 1.9 TDI and apart from tyres, brake discs, pads, calipers, cables, bushes, shocks, boots, wiper linkage, fuel injector, 2 x cam belts and pumps, boot switch, driver's belt socket, ABS pump, battery and starter motor I haven't had an issue in seven years! Still goes like stink when you put your foot down mind.

Aaand we have a winner... Congratulations that man! Yes it's a totally base model fiat Tipo in dark blue with a few dings and a fair few scratches that has clearly had quite a hard life over the years (it looks to be an early pre face-lift model) but from a distance looks pretty good and to give it its due it drives well. To be honest though it's perfect for the rough greek roads and if it gets another couple of scratches I doubt anybody will be too concerned. Rather perversely though it has been fitted with an aftermarket all singing and all dancing Huawei based head unit complete with sat nav. The latter is totally unfathomable though and doesn't seem able to find anywhere we need it to as its set up to use English but can't recognise the English versions of Greek placenames... Which means it's useless as we don't know greek and it doesn't have a Greek keyboard. Halelluia for sygic and Google maps though as I discovered yesterday that it also has android auto! Pictures can follow tomorrow when / if it stops raining. Ps the spare wheelwell is also a miniature swimming pool but I'm not sure if that was due to the hire place washing it before we collected it or the torrential rain we've been having

If you can source a decent 1.9tdi they are bomb proof. Had a 58 plate for 6 years and no problems apart from a sticking turbo actuator and the usual ball joints etc. plus a timing belt change and waterpump. No DPF to worry about and used to get 60+ MPG. They are getting rarer in good condition now though. Not as refined as more modern ones but I reckon thats why they are so reliable. Alasdair

Have you tried disabling speed limit response and/or road layout response in ACC settings? Worth a try to help narrow down if it is a camera or mapping issue.

@VanhireBoys The car is a keeper. it looked after you in France so you need to look after it forever ❣️

@VanhireBoys Apart from the adventure story: What wheel and tire size are you running in your Superb? They look larger than stock? Is it 225/50R17 on 7.5J rims? Or 215/50R17 on 7J? Or am I seeing it wrong and is this just stock?

It could be as simple as a failed LED or dry joint on circuit board. Not sure how you would test it though. Alasdair

At least it has you in the UK. (al be it in German) mine seems to think England is in Deutschland. When I get rid of this car I will really have to find a Brexiteer or Reform supporter to sell it to. :-)

As a minimum have the belt inspected. Changing a belt will feel cheap compared to the alternative.

Hi again, Karoqies. Can I add a little oddity, that I was told about. Perhaps folks on this forum can help. My karoq failed because of knackered battery. I called out the motor aid services. A top guy came out and sorted everything. He gave me a bit of advice by telling me to switch off the auto engine cut off, as it's a strain on engine, battery, crankshaft and the savings is miniscule...that's the second time, I've heard this tip..???

What was now the solution?

Hey, thank you for responding. I think it might be the only solution so not much luck here as I'm out of warranty 😅 hope it doesn't strike my wallet too much!

Yes. When i came back from France the car thought it was still there for 2 days. It sometimes thinks i’m going across fields. It can stop the acc from working too. It’s intermittent and because there are no fault codes the dealer isn’t interested.

Hang on, I thought you said li-on battery fires are fierce flames. They don't really explode. Someone else on SpeakEV actually thinks for themselves, I'll just c+p here: " Interesting somehow an explosive atmosphere was created inside the garage. There are 3 possible atmospheres. Hydrogen / oxygen from 12v battery charging. Petrol vapour + atmospheric oxygen and assuming the house uses gas a natural gas leak from a domestic supply and atmospheric oxygen. Hydrogen / oxygen from 12v, difficult to get enough volume for a big bang petrol / air needs a lot of energy to kick it off. My money would be on the gas leak explosion, there are about 30 per year in the UK alone, if that's the case the car is an innocent bystander. " https://www.speakev.com/threads/peugeot-phev-explodes-with-a-shockwave.193765/?post_id=3836985#post-3836985 Funny how that particular youtube channel chooses to point the blame at li-on batteries despite absolutely no evidence. Hum...... makes one wonder their biases....

Nope. I did think I might get one of those but no...