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So far: few flywheels one front spring both front drive axles (it is easier to change and almost the same price than only the ball joint) few sets of brake disks back camera Probably some stuff else, but cannot remember anything major.

Chances are the amplifier built into the bottom of the aerial base is dead. What radio unit do you have? On some models you can bring up a hidden menu to show the signal strength and amplifier status

New wheel fitted, really like it and the paddles just work

I had a similar sounding problem a few years ago on my mk1 1.9 tdi. Car would be fine and every now and then would simply refuse to accelerate properly, peaking out about 70mph despite my foot being on the floor. It got more and more regular and was diagnosed as a failing turbo. New turbo sorted it

All, Getting to grips with tech, no SD card slot in the new Karoq and I don't tend to keep a lot of music on my phone. FWIW I purchased a usb-c micro flash (PNY 64gb elite x fit) that is tiny and more importantly fits beautifully in the 2nd (to the right) usb-c socket in the front console and allows the slider cover to be closed if desired. If put in the other slot it just catches on the cover - doh! Probably enough music now to drive to Oz and back. PD

I replaced the front brake disks and pads, after replacing the rears a couple of weeks ago. On my 2016 163,000 miles Greenline. I fitted Zimmermann disks and TRW pads all round. Main reason for changing was because I was getting juddering, especially when braking at motorway speeds, due to a warped front disk. And the pads looked a bit low at the back, so I thought "might was well do the whole lot". The fronts were the quickest and easiest disk and pad change I've ever done. No retaining / anti-squeak spring. All bolts easily accessible with the steering on full lock. I've got a long strong breaker bar that undid the 2 carrier bolts on each side with ease.

Collection booked for Friday. Looking forward!!

5 years old yesterday and currently on 114k. Just coming up to 2 years ownership and after spending nothing other than a service I'm now having to shell out for a few repairs. Battery failed about 6 weeks ago which when changed still wasn't charging properly and needed an alternator too. Front brake pads a couple of weeks ago. Rear shocks this weekend Service next week Cambelt and waterpump in December. Likely to have lightened my wallet by £1,500+ all in but all work needed.

2015 Octavia vRS CR TDI, "Oil Stove" CUP engine. I've already read up on the oil consumption problems beforehand. I'm not afraid of the repair yet, as I used to fix motorcycles and I even bought the Seat with a faulty engine; I fix everything myself (except for the machine work, of course, which I have to take to a shop). I'm primarily here for information: which manufacturer is worth choosing for certain parts, and what are the best solutions. I will look for the appropriate topic then. Thank you!

If the hard shoulder is being used as a 'live running lane' (or whatever the correct term is) then a stopped vehicle on the hard shoulder is no different to a stopped vehicle in any other lane. So yes, in my opinion, worthy of a 999 call.

Agreed ^^^^^. Sounds like time for a new battery. Not worth the hassle of putting up with a dying battery for £80 or so.

Hey everyone! Just joined the forum and wanted to introduce myself. I’m a big fan of car modding and currently drive a Skoda Octavia MK3 FL. I’ve been slowly customizing it. Always looking to learn new things, share ideas, and check out other members builds. Excited to be part of the community and to see what everyone’s working on!

I did. I traced the source of the water to the plastic shroud next to the light - water was running down the scuttle and underneath the shroud. Strangely enough the other side was fine. As a temporary measure I just put duct tape over it, meaning to point it out at the next service and get it fixed under warranty, but I didn’t really want the car in the garage for a day while they pulled it apart so I just left it and it’s fine.

Managed to get my appointment moved to the 18th November. Bloody car wouldn't start yesterday so put the jump pack on it and got it going. The rest of the day after a drive to work and back it was ok and we charged it over night and it fired up ok this morning.

Thanks Leolito 🙂

If you can trust this - so far is been reliable - it states same oil for front and rear, 75W-90 however. https://ato24.de/en/oil-finder-page?type_id=107784

Mine, from VW - 10A723131 10A723647

Yes, I do some repairs and am missing the alignment on the linkage, but I found a manual online and uploaded it here in case anyone has the same situation. 5-speed-manual-gearbox-0cf-repair-eng (2).pdf

See the (skimpy) VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' for your model and year (or VIN), 'Driver assist systems' - 'Lane assist' - 'Functionality' - "Display Display example in black and white display." - (As it's an European car manufacturer in this example the steering wheel appears to be on the left). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Thats a proper failure. Mine went but it was just the seals so loads of smoke but turbo was intact. Once everything has been checked and a new turbo fitted with new oil and filter etc I would change oil and filter after 200 miles to make sure any debris from the old one is removed from engine. Alasdair

Ahh thanks, always assumed they were VRs, thanks for the correction (Sportline and Sportline Plus) Thanks for the photos

There never has been a vRS Superb. The Sportline trim Superbs get the aluminium pedals as standard. I got some aluminium pedals covers, from Kopacek, to go over my plastic pedals. I also got the footrest aluminium cover too, to match. Been many many many years now - all good.

Does your tank have a tube from cap for expansion. In the past a failed cap on one of my cars was causing coolant to be forced out as the coolant wasnt getting properly pressurised. I put a plastic bottle on end of expansion drain tube to check and found coolant in it after a short journey. Replaced cap and all good. Clean up the emulsified oil from cap and take for a decent run to see if it comes back. If its very slight it could be down to short journeys and condensation. Alasdair

I'm going to stick with my original thoughts: What Warrior has said is correct, there is a front sensor but it's for collision avoidance only. You should also see a dashboard symbol when you are too close to the vehicle in front. I think somebody may have attempted to "upgrade" your system without full knowledge but I could be wrong. Normally for park assist the information and camera image (if fitted) appears in the infotainment window. My suggestion is take it to the Skoda dealer, ask them and also have the software updated if they recommend it. Sometimes software updates are more trouble than they are worth. Also have you downloaded the manual for your car yet from the Skoda web site?

How much? Say 1L per week or from full mark to empty in 2 months? Need a measure of the volume of coolant leaking. That bubbler would rely on a perfect seal at the top. Did it have that? Oil cooler may be leaking slightly. Again, we need to know how much coolant is being lost

I'm now hoping this is the issue? I just can't find where it is (and forgot to check the V5 for the engine code). Front carpets appear to be okay, and I don't see any crystals anywhere. It's true most journeys are short, so maybe that's part of the issue.

Yes, oil changes have been regular and the oil looks fine on the dipstick.

Is there a way to stop it asking me if I want to install the 1989 update every time I start the car? Really not wanting to install 1989 at present and having to press cancel every time I get in the car is a pain.

sponsored by Tena? 🤣 7500 miles between Jan and mid August (was away for most of july with no car so in reality this is 7 months of data) , total cost of public and home charging £230. That is basically just over 2 fill ups in my diesel so roughly 900 miles or so in the diesel. I call that a finanical advantage

Sorry Bobby, I did not.

Sorry my bad I was assuming you meant RS which is why TDI confused me. Can’t you just ask the dealer to do it? To be honest I wouldn’t be messing around with a new car, leave that to when it’s out of warranty.

Just collected the Alcantara Steering wheel with Flat bottom and paddles from the dealership this afternoon, along with a new nut. Will fit tomorrow, was too good a price not to do it in the end. Was able to get the dull door inserts back to gloss after getting the Meguairs Compound on them, picture of half way to see what the difference was

Just to make others aware and hopefully help someone else fix a similar issue. I own a Skoda Octavia MK3, 2017 model (new facelift), chassis type 5E, engine code CZDA. Recently, I had a problem with the cruise control: it stopped working. When starting the engine, everything seemed fine, but after driving past about 20 miles per hour, an error appeared on the dashboard and the cruise control became unavailable. No other faults were shown anywhere. When checking the car with VCDS, I was getting the following errors: 01-Engine – Status: Malfunction 0010 - This fault kept coming back every time, even after clearing it with VCDS. 16-Steering wheel – Status: Malfunction 0010 - This error could be cleared, but it returned at the next engine start whenever the cruise control was activated. Address 01: Engine (J623-CZDA) Labels:. 04E-907-309-V1.clb Part No SW: 04E 906 027 HD HW: 04E 907 309 BH Component: R4 1.4l TFS H26 3742 Revision: R7H26--- CVN: 65239CB2 Coding: 01190032232401080000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM14TFS01104E906027HD 001007 ROD: EV_ECM14TFS01104E906027HD.rod VCID: 6DD17CB3BC91F7F308-8038 VINID: 91D4924C779519A0001091021CE819DDF1 Center armrest control head 1: 1 Fault Found: 17165 - Databus U1123 00 [00100100] - Received Error Message Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 128339 km Date: 2025.10.31 Time: 10:51:44 Engine speed: 993.00 /min Normed load value: 11.8 % Vehicle speed: 14 km/h Coolant temperature: 88 °C Intake air temperature: 28 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.536 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Acceleration: -0.270 m/s² Cruise Control System (CCS): status-Bits 0-7: 2 Cruise_control_shutoff_conditions_irreversible-Bits 0-7: 0 Cruise_control_shutoff_conditions_irreversible-Bits 0-7: 0 Cruise control system: temporary deactivation-Bits 0-7: 255 or 24 Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 % Cruise control switch actuation-Bits 0-7: 49 Cruise control switch actuation-Bits 0-7: 129 Readiness: 0010 0001 Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels:| 5Q0-953-549.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 953 507 GD HW: 5Q0 953 549 F Component: Lenks. Modul 003 0140 Revision: -------- Serial number: 24031704221492 Coding: 1400 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_SMLSKLOMQB 020002 ROD: EV_SMLSKLOMQB_018_VW37.rod VCID: 7EF34BFFE1F77C6BA1-802A 2 Faults Found: 229163 - Turn Signal Switch B1144 13 [00011000] - Open Circuit Intermittent - Confirmed - Not Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Reset counter: 3 Mileage: 128339 km Date: 2025.10.31 Time: 10:51:43 Operating time: 204269 min Terminal 30 power supply: 14.8 V Vehicle speed: 16 km/h Voltage at switch: 4.98 V Terminal 15 status: active System status: 30 FF U Blinker GRA Plus Minus AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Resume Cancel AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Main Switch AD value: 193 229179 - Turn Signal Stalk; Switch for Cruise Control B1144 F3 [00011000] - Electrical Malfunction Intermittent - Confirmed - Not Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Reset counter: 3 Mileage: 128339 km Date: 2025.10.31 Time: 10:51:43 Operating time: 204269 min Terminal 30 power supply: 14.8 V Vehicle speed: 16 km/h Voltage at switch: 4.98 V Terminal 15 status: active System status: 30 FF U Blinker GRA Plus Minus AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Resume Cancel AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Main Switch AD value: 193 After investigating the steering wheel turn signal stalk, I discovered a nearly broken wire that was hanging on by just a single strand. I had to unplug the cruise control wiring to inspect the entire section, as it was hidden inside. Because the wires aren’t long enough, using the stalk for signalling causes them to pull and push slightly up or down. I assume the damage occurred due to this repeated movement over time. You don’t need to remove the entire steering wheel unless the issue is more complicated. I only had to undo one screw underneath and the two screws hidden behind the steering wheel. These become visible if you turn the steering wheel halfway to the left or right to remove the cover. The stalk has a small cover behind it, which you need to take off to access the wiring and the circuit board for the cruise control.

Not sure that's correct, I have a Samsung S22 that's a few years old now and that has Bluetooth version 5.2 and works fine with my Octavia.

Picked up my magic black 17 plate SEL, 2.0tdi, 150, 4x4, 7 seat yesterday. Had a Scala previously and loved it, then a brief dalliance with a Kia but quickly returned to a Skoda