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For anybody who needs them - These are lightweight goal posts, nice and easy to move about as needed 👍🏻 https://www.smythstoys.com/ie/en-ie/outdoor/goals/junior-football-goals-portable-set/p/110024?srsltid=AfmBOoo6VY3p9-oAmWv41x8Znmw6S-5uI37uHJSO-FkUfxzonOET-gE5W1Q

A thousand times that!

True that 110 volt shock is a little less likely to be fatal - however the risk of electrical fires is considerably higher due to substantially higher amperages in circuits.

A few from the local Reservoir and nearby Country Park....... Time for a Snooze 😴 Little and Large 😁 Not come across these before 🤔 Full Steam Ahead! And a few others.....................

Got a 3 phase socket in our basement. Not installed by us but I suspect from when the house was built in the 80s. Fairly common AIUI

That's because they weren't a very popular model to have in the first place though some claimed them to be faster than a MkI Fabia vRS which they weren't by any means. If it must be petrol, far better to plump for the 1.4 16V (the 100hp version) IMO and avoid the 1.4MPI. Old Briskoda folklore 'I took him like a King'. Those who know will know.

Resetting the specific Settings mentioned by @Warrior193 to factory settings fixed it. Just switching off and on did nothing. So everything works now. Couple of good tips here in regards to the settings and battery next time. And yes, i actually think a window was rolled down when I removed the battery.

Honestly, I would reject the car if it's causing that many problems for you and you've lost trust with it. There will no doubt be a depreciation value associated with the mileage you have done, but if they aren't willing/able to support you then reject the vehicle, move on to a different car.

It seems logical to me that the belt wears out more in conditions where there is sand and dust in the air, and not the other way around.

But, in the UK for many many years, Skoda, SEAT, Audi & VW have had it as recommended at 5 years / 50,000 in the 'Not Dust Rich Country' for all the engines with belts. This was the goose that laid the Golden Egg. There are Main Dealers Service Desk Staff that will still say this is the Schedule, Recommendation, Specification.

The belt and tensioner bearings are of the same quality as on the 2.0 tdi engines and the reason why the timing belt was initially replaced on the 1.5 tsi at 50,000 was because the engineers believed that by that mileage the timing belt would be out of alignment +/- 1.0° so it would need to be readjusted, and since you have to remove everything to adjust it anyway, the belt is also replaced. After 3-4 years they realized that the ACT system worked proprly at 50,000 or 100,000, then they realized that adjustment was unnecessary. and then they logically returned the interval to the same as for all their engines, because I have never heard or seen a belt break at TDI, TSI on 100,000-150,000, but only if it is not replaced at more than 250,000. There are also alternative tools for adjusting the timing belt. this tool is about 200€

Had to change this on my 1.2 Yeti. Yes underneath but not too difficult to get to. I just drove one wheel up a driveway onto the edge of a high kerb. Could then crawl under and remove. They can be tight, so a good soak in penetrating oil helps and a hot exhaust can help too. I used a lamda sensor socket to remove it, which is a deep socket with a slot along the side to put the cable through. I replaced with the VW Part from TPS and fault code cleared. No problems for 4 years since

The voltage drop is to move closer to the 220v European nominal voltage. Gradual indexing it down, ia m guessing to see which electrical devices start failing with this lower voltage. Thought my fridge freezer was dying but electually worked out it was something in the moulded plug, not the fuse of course. Thinking of sawing it up to see why it failed. Interesting times as am I going to get less than the 7.2 kws from my main EV charger and less than 3 6 kw out of my smaller EV charger. A 9% lowering of average voltage it gets could mean longer charge times needed. Sure I will find a technical solution but another somewhat unexpected challenge. Engineer and ingenuity have the same Latin root.

Actually the angle between separate phases is 120 degrees.

It'd be difficult to remember if they weren't electrically adjustable, Lol.

France, Germany, Scandalised countries gave high percentage of 3 phase at residential properties.

HI Steve, A wee update as of last night, I have had my second successful IOG charge, including a schedule with multiple stops and starts. I stood out one night and watched exactly what happened when the charges failed. What brought about success for me was the following in the Hypervolt app, settings, charger settings : Random start disabled. now I have the Elroq vRS connected to Octopus IOG as an Elroq 85 24 Hypervolt Pro in plug and charge mode, which happened automatically for me when I deleted it from the Octopus app. Set up required charge to amount in Octopus app I have noticed that when I plug in the car, the car will start to charge immediately (saw your workaround to that), so far, I have just left it charging. The Octopus app doesn't see the car as plugged in for roughly 3 - 4 minutes, but does eventually 'sense' the car. I believe once the car is seen by the Octopus app the car stops the immediate charging. Then a few minutes later, the schedule eventually appears. Car charges as necessary with stops and starts and changes as per the IOG schedule. To summarize, I removed the Hypervolt from the Octopus app added the Elroq 85 24, disabled Random start in the Hypervolt 3 pro app and added the Generic 7Kwh charger in theOctopus app. fingers crossed it continues to work (albeit with a few extra minutes at 28p) Appreciate all the help Scott

@lol-lol no, 3 phase in more houses is not a good thing to have. It can be useful if people follow all the rules both at design stage, installation and in actual usage afterwards. A 240 volt shock is not always going to be fatal, very nasty, but people have been known to survive. A 3 phase system has 415 volts between any 2 phases and deadly.

I'm getting an intermittent SOS warning error on the dashboard (which clears almost immediately), with the overhead SOS light also turning red (which clears itself after an engine restart). I read on another thread that updating the OCU had fixed this for somebody.

Ah that makes sense. I heard it's the same 2.0 petrol as a mk4 golf gti? Yeah has to be a petrol. It would be our 'run around' car which does 8 miles to work and 8 miles home and that's it. Our mini is diesel and having issues with the EGR/DPF. The fabia mentioned above was simply because it was fairly local, fairly cheap and already modded (coilovers, rear strut brace, piper exhaust system etc). How strong were the engines? Maybe a 2.0 petrol with 115k on the clock isn't the 'cheap run around' that I'm after!

Pre-existing faults notified are faults no matter how long it takes the dealer to fix them. The law is clear on this point.

If you have this gearbox you fill oil with hole from this switch

Good enough. near enough. Small point on rare cars, hardly any left on the DVLA database on road or SORN. They are occasionally totally wrong with some cars. @Graham Butcher Now today and yesterday discussing the Scores on the doors. Groundhog day again, the section is full of previous posts on the kidology. I posted asking about people trying a BEV. & not about why not to have one or try one. So you have not. I do not monitor you day to day to know what you have been doing. If i read it here i might see. Lots of trip posted i do not read.

Maybe so to some folk and not so to others, it all depends I guess on what each person is looking for from a car. So if that added convenience of having your car pre-warmed or pre-cooled etc, outweighs the other real or not, benefits is all in the mind of the beholder and also of course the social divide in as much able to or not able to charge at home, is the range good enough. If not, can you afford to take the chance of finding a charger when you need one, or even a working one. Yes I understand about planning your time and journey, but after yes of not having to A/ having to add further time into your drive to carry out charging, and B/ having to pre-plan your route and journey to plan in charge stops is not what everybody wants or needs. It really is a case of if that suits some folk then, good luck to them. Can you imagine the roles being reversed, you have been used to driving electric and then all of a sudden being told, that the only way you can continue, is to put up with old cars with old technology, as new electric ones were being banned and ICE cars brought in as replacements? So anyone who was used to getting brand-new cars at regular intervals, would be forced to either switch to ICE cars, or put up with ageing cars, with reduced reliability and fast dwindling spares parts situation and maybe reductions in charging locations?

? Do people who tried a BEV not find what a pleasure they can be to drive? Fantastic in the cold or wet or cold and wet to just get in be it pre conditioned or not. Almost instant heat and clear interior glass. Those that have never tried one or more should maybe do so. & Get an idea what it is they are discussing.

Hi all just a quick hello, i bought a mk3 Octavia VRS 2.0tdi in May 2025 from a well known dealer here in NI. it was bought to replace a 2007 Vectra CDTI that i owned for 10 years. first VAG group car Ive owned apart from a DLA Caddy Maxi Have been loving it, well for the first few weeks. will post a topic later to describe what i mean. cheers Mark

Hi, welcome Mark. If you've not already seen it on this site there's an Octavia section including a Mk3 and 'Guides' and 'Projects' forums. Good luck. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

Yeah, contacted a different Skoda local partner and they sent me this ordered the parts, so should be good after installation. Thanks for the feedback :)

It's built in to the Aerial base

Id uploaded the wrong pic that why I edited the post. I can't find a newer Gracenote version sadly

just a hint: you dont have to disconnect battery terminals for changing bulbs.

My days of messing about with a car are long gone. I just want to get in a car and drive (if only) but that's not how contemporary motoring works. However, if I was preparing for diy maintenance I'd look into Haynes manuals which are now digital. Whether they are still any good or not in 2025 I can't say but here's a link. Haynes Manuals United KingdomHaynes Manuals UK | DIY Maintenance and Repair GuidesBuy Haynes & Clymer manuals online in the UK. Trusted DIY repair guides for cars, vans, motorcycles, tractors, marine & ATVs in print and digital formats.

Just an update on my attempt to replace the front indicators with the following LEDs: PH24WY: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304561517995 Available slightly cheaper direct from CarModShop’s own web site: https://carmodshop.co.uk/product/pair-ph24wy-canbus-led-turn-signal-indicator-bulbs-amber-orange-yellow/ However, these were not successful. The bulb didn’t really seem to fit properly into the connector, and didn’t light up. I suspect the pins in the bulb were slightly misaligned, and didn’t engage with the holes in the connector. With some extra force it did eventually slide in further, but one of the bulb’s pins had retreated up into the body of the bulb instead of going into the connector and it still didn’t light up. I didn’t actually get to the point of fitting the bulb into the light fitting. CarModShop were excellent at accepting the return and refunded me very quickly. Here’s another PH24WY candidate, which I might try in due course: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274963723745 I’m still not 100% sure about the Katur H3 bulbs for halogen full-beam (on car with bi-xenons), but it’s looking more hopeful: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CB5YK3MW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 One of these was giving intermittent bulb warnings, so I took it out and cleaned both the bulb and the light fitting using electrical contact cleaner on a cotton bud. H3 bulbs earth themselves through the body of the bulb where it touches the light fitting, so a dirty connection may have been the issue. Since doing this I haven’t had a repeat of the warning, so fingers crossed. Note: It’s worth repeating that LED retrofit headlights or full-beams in fittings not designed for them will be an MOT failure if the tester can see what you’ve done without removing covers.

Do all checks visually pre and post winter. Check tyres / pressures regularly. Check the Pollen / Cabin filter and clean or replace each year rather than 2 if you want. Check the Air Filter annually rather than every 6 years / 60,000 miles. Spark Plugs every 40,000 miles / 4 years. Brake fluid change is now each 2 years rather than first at 3 then each 2. A search of Briskoda service charts, or Oil & Inspection Services will likely show you what little Skoda Main Dealer Servicing involves. They might tick a box, that means nothing, certainly not that it was done.

BT version should not be a problem. make sure your apps are up to date, and you follow the instructions to connecting the device. My only problem after the latest software update (for a s22 ultra) is that on wireless android auto the phone expects to have data from the wifi connections and drops the mobile data which results in a no internet scenario, waze hangs, youtube hangs, solution is turning wifi/mobile data off and on again and reconnecting to android auto. tho' i'll try to get my hands on a 5.4 bluetooth device to try replicate this problem. "There is a workaround for AA notifications not working an App AA notification forwarder you have to enable developer options in AA and tick allow unknown source." did that fix your issue ?

But the UK had unique advice, recommendations From VW Group UK & Main Dealerships.. A not 'Dust Rich Country'. The VW Group in UK,s Customer Services contractor / call handlers are really next to useless,

^^^ Worth a message to the Service Centre / Branch Manager to make them aware more staff training required.

Not yet. No shutting down in three weeks now and working perfectly fine. Fingers crossed that issue is gone now 🤞

But particularly in certain manufacturers. We know many Stellantis and VW factories are having shutdown periods. Judging by Renault sales and how difficult it has been to get some models and versions and their sales figures it is not so much for this particular marque.

I got the cheap ones from eBay or Ali - can’t remember which - about four years ago and they fit perfectly.

3: more cars are being built than demand so they are manipulating the registrations to meet the targets so they can sell what people want to buy.

Just washed it. What helps is the Raceglaze water filter which means zero water marks, although I do towel most of it off. It really needs a whole day spent on it but I just don’t have the time at the moment.

At lower outdoor temperatures the efficiency of heat pumps is much lower. Sometimes not much more than 100% if it's very cold.

Eh?? Evidence please Also as an aside... The experience of colleagues who have switched to heat pumps from gas has not been good... With them citing cold houses and much higher bills added to the high cost of installation

Factory reset is an option on the settings menu. Once you have done that you will have to reset up yourself as primary user using both key fobs and also any other user accounts. It’s not that bad as once you log back in the bulk of your settings are downloaded from the cloud. Finally re-pair your phone/s. Factory reset after the update

I've done a factory reset, we'll see. First time for me, but a couple of things i found interesting. After the reset it seemed to restore the settings I had back when I first registered as primary user, not what I'd set since. Its interesting because they were not defaults, so it is definitely "restoring" something. When I registered the keys, I mistakenly pressed unlock in the opposite order to what I did the first time. This seems to have made both keys map to the same, primary user profile. I don't really mind that, but just find it a bit bizzare and nondeterministic behaviour. After getting out, locking the car, unlocking and getting back in the car was asking for an S-PIN. I don't ever remember setting one, and I'm normally pretty good at keeping a record of these things. I made one up, and it seems to have worked. I'm hoping this fixes my issues, and I dread encountering some of the issues you guys have mentioned. I agree with others about it likely being incompatible database schmea or file metadata - devs in general are notorious for not thinking about how migrations will work. What is worrying is all these sorts of issues are usually the sign of crap developers and lack of testing; the last thing you want in a f*ucking car!

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a NOX Sensor 1 and after replacement is there any reconfiguration required?

No, but it looks like possibly background blur due to foreground message/notification (but obviously without it)? I can't recall if mine does background blur, but I'd take it in for investigation.

Stretch bolts mon cul! - they are set screws threaded the length of the shank. They do have a dry threadlock on them though, or blue paint for the Chinese ones!!!! I'm not sure what joker dreamed up all this stretch bolt nonsense but its getting out of hand. Not a recent thing though, 40 years ago a (bullsh1tter) friend was a service receptionist at a Ford dealer and they used to bill for a new sump plug and washer with every oil change claiming that the threads stretched, once again threaded the whole length, a 20mm diameter threaded steel fastener going into an alloy sump, yeah that is really going to stretch and can't be re-used 🥴

Must be switched off in two different places. If they are so annoying, why don't you just turn them off?