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Major service, DSG service and brake fluid change completed yesterday. The main dealer hadn’t done the DSG service at 40k, so it was 12k overdue, and I reported a whining noise while crawling in traffic in 1st and 2nd gears. The oil was bit dark, as they said they expect with an overdue service, but importantly there was no metal in it. They could hear the whine on the road test, but not when up on the ramps, and couldn’t hear anything untoward when listening to the ‘box with a stethoscope, so can’t report anything else, as it drives fine. Apart from a leaking front shock, which they’re pricing up options for, as I’ll do all four, it was given a clean bill of health!

But what if the issue isn't the battery alone? It's ok saying go and buy a new battery, but if the alternator is also faulty or there is an issue somewhere else, a new battery isn't going to fix my problem. I'd happily go and find someone if Skoda paid for the cost. I don't see why I should have to pay to fix a fault in a car that we've owned less then 6 months. But because they won't do the right thing I have no choice but to wait. My frustration is, we bought this to Skoda's attention in July and we were told nothing wrong, your wife must have left something open or on. Which clearly isn't the case. But quite clearly there is something wrong. In my view Skoda should have said bring it in and we will find time to look at it. I'm not a mechanic so I can't say either a new battery will sort the issue,

The guessometer in the car is not a reliable way of achieving an accurate MPG. It shows what has happened over the period between resetting and adjusts as you drive I once left Lancashire with a full tank with a guessometer reading of 436 range When I got to Frankley services my expected range with the fuel not used was 500 miles and i had travelled over 100 miles. After two weeks driving around Devon When i filled up to return the predicted range was 450ish Not a superb but a 2.0 diesel with a dsg average to and from work was 34-35 mpg getting to 60+mpg on the motorway

Ai appears to agree with what most of the replies so far have said. Putting 77 litres in when almost empty and guessing at the outcome is not really helpful. Accuracy requires full to full refueling and monitoring to get a "real mpg" Summary after a deep dive conversation

Just washed it. What helps is the Raceglaze water filter which means zero water marks, although I do towel most of it off. It really needs a whole day spent on it but I just don’t have the time at the moment.

New to the forum and new to owning a Skoda too! I’ve found topics already helpful and now need to take a more proactive approach to get some answers I need, so here I am, a new member. See you on the forums!

This is the Brodit mount I fitted originally. https://www.brodit.co.uk/brodit/vehicles/skoda/superb/proclip-for-skoda-superb-2425-rhd/19516

Made progress and confirmed diagnosis. dead starter. grabbed a couple each male&female spade connectors and tested continuity between Bat+ and starter+, Bat+ and solennoid cables(when key turned) & Bat- to gnd strap starter side. All tested good. bridging 12v to the solenoid pin did nothing. NO life whatsoever, only the fettid smell of death. Oh, the resistance from solenoid pin to ground was all over the place (I'm guiessing there's a capacitor or two in there and wierd resisnce reading isn;t actually strange behaviour, I am just mentioning in case it is somehow relevant) New starter motor is currently 4 stops away, in the back of a prime waggon. I was helping clear out a flat last night and saw on my mates desk, my windscreen wiper arm puller, and took it back as he no longer using it. Came in so handy today, for removing the gear cable assembly. top long bolt removed. I didn;t have my ikkle 2" 1/2" sockeet extender so couldn;t get past the annoying bracket underneath, but that shouldn't cause any struggle once I have it. I saw anpther annoying connector or two down on that side of the gearbox that I hope All things going well, she should ride again tomorrow. my thanks to you both this was a lot easier job when doing on my long-dead vauxhall vivaro 2L. If memory serves, it was easier to get to and an allen key ( although swings and roundabouts, the engine in that died due to nissans timing chain)

I had the storage bin on my 23 plate Sportline, now I have the 25 plate Sportline edition it has been removed and is just the rubber tray, useless now!

I got MHIG_EU_SK_P0346 right now. Downloading K1552 as we speak

IT IS Possible, that the Radio Update is the solution nur No warrenty from me. Ist the Error after Radio Update, Flash BCM

Which Radio System you have? HW Version? SW Version? SW Number of Version?

Which Part of light have the Error?

Good evening @Shultzy and welcome to Briskoda 👍

Thanks All, for your replies. I actually wrote to Thatcham this morning (support.thatcham.com [in internet address bar] -> General Enquiries -> Other) and received a reply: Good Afternoon Nick , I can confirm that your vehicle (reg.) has a Thatcham Approved Category 1 Alarm and Immobiliser, fitted as standard by the manufacturer. Just as mumpsim says! Can't believe it was so difficult to find. Also, to note, insurance company auto-filled "category 2" online when I was completing the form so it appears their system didn't collect the correct information from the Thatcham database. Another concern was that Skoda showroom where I bought the car had no idea. Crazy! Anyway, will now complete insurance process. Hope this post proves useful to others in the future. Best wishes, Nick

It would appear from Jurid on autodoc that the brake disc sizes on the Kodiaq MK1 fit the following pattern. However, it's always best to use more absolute methods such as using the car's build codes (and cross-referencing to a Skoda parts catalogue) or taking physical measurements, etc. Kodiaq MK1 brake disc sizes (engines with less than 150PS) 312x25mm front brake discs 300x12mm rear brake discs Kodiaq MK1 brake disc sizes (engines with 150PS) 314x30mm front brake discs 300x12mm rear brake discs Kodiaq MK1 brake disc sizes (engines with more than 150PS) 340x30mm front brake discs 310x22mm rear brake discs

22 mm spanner for an ariel base JHC !!

Yes mine is exactly the same, yet sometimes it will neither open or close with the foot sensor but at the same time still closes on your head while loading.

Make sure they use OEM parts There is also anecdotal evidence of five year old cars suffering gremlins being linked to Earth points and Wiring contacts to the sensors themselves. I have seen videos of ABS sensors being fixed by simply removing the plug and putting it back on again.

Fair enough. You didn't say what year the car is so I don't know which manual would apply but did put they are not always great and get worse the newer the car. Getting good detail guides with good visuals from people working on the same model with the same systems , components and parts I find very difficult, there are some excellent example about but the majority are not great or even very poor quality or at least partly wrong. But a good idea to ask here from actual owners and users of the model, baring in mind the number of variances there can be and this being a UK based site so non-UK cars can vary in ways unknown to many regular posters. Also bear in mind there are many other viewers to the thread that do not post but looking for information and for them many times consulting the car's 'Owner's Manual' may often be a very good basis for a solution - but as always each to there own. Sorry it wasn't meant to be a snarky comment just not well written, I was more concerned if there was an issue with the front bulbs, front bulbs could have meant more than just a broken (faulty, blown) light bulb and if you were changing to different types of bulbs this can bring issues which perhaps we could have warned or advised you about to avoid more issues. But as you are fully sorted now that is good. Again sorry about the poor wording (perhaps this is why I can get along more with the VWŠkoda car manuals).

I understand and that is actually my point. If a fix is relatively cheap it's best to just do it because at least it eliminates the simple stuff and leaves the expensive time consuming thing to the dealers. You had trouble in July and Skoda did what Dealers do, they can only be sure what needs to be done to confirm if they do it themselves. Charge it up and see what happens i.e "Do you come back?" If you had come on here in July it would have been "Change the Battery" You then came on here on 31st October and immediately were pointed towards the "battery" Main dealers have waiting lists for scheduled work so they are doing it "As soon as they can" I have Fords mainly and they were the same I had a dsg fail and it was a fortnight to get in, "change oil and filter" a month later it failed again another week to get in "new gearbox unit" With Skoda i was contacted recently to book an "Inspection" when i rang "two weeks away" so I thought to also book it in for the MOT in January now in case they say "too busy" when it's due. On the what if it isn't the battery, if in July you had just bought a Battery and the problem could have been sorted but had it continued you would now be having whatever the problem was sorted next Tuesday under the warranty. If on Tuesday they change the Battery will you "feel" any different than you do now. Because you will still have the wonder of what if it isn't. My peace of mind is worth more than the price of a battery four or five months ago. When they do change the battery next Tuesday and it fixes it. Start looking around for your next nearest Dealer to go to in future because the one you are using is incompetent.

I've had different readings the few times I've checked it. Last week when I checked it it said 12.1v whilst sitting on the drive running. So I thought maybe the alternator was faulty. Yesterday doing the same check 14.5v which would suggest the alternator was working. Which is why I said in a post above I'm not sure that it's just the battery. Especially if you factor in the car yesterday allowed the engine to stop but then it didn't have the guts to restart. That to me points to something else.

thanks for all the help and info so far. TBH i didnt even think to make a note of how many liters i got for £77 I will fill again make note of liters added and start the proces again Thanks for advise

I have 2010 170hp manual, now 275k miles. Wont drink oil and runs great. Ex owner did dual mass and clutch +turbo about 215k miles. Those usually break at that miles what ive looked. But you have done clutch allready. Some services are harder than old 1.9tdi but not bad. Thermostat takes some work so maybe look that it works or if not, reduce price. Even at winter gives warm. Lots of near 400k mile ones here too so its not weak engine.

Sounds like maybe a poor connection. I'd disconnect the battery, check both posts & clamps are clean & then reconnect, making sure everything's nice & tight.

@VooDoo Sorry but £77 of fuel means nothing as no idea how many litres you get for that where you buy it. But if 144 pence a litre £6.55 ish a gallon) you got about 11.8 gallons. Less than 53 litres. So that is not filled right up is it? Has it got a 60 litre fuel tank? 333 miles divided by 11.8 is 28.2 MPG, but you are not empty. Fill it up and see once it shows only 40 mile range maybe.

Bit odd that stop/start would work if the battery is iffy - mostly people complain it hardly ever works. Bit of a faff if you're both working so probably not worth it now, but if it fails again you could call Skoda Assist - if it needs to go into a dealer they can jump the queue.

8.8v on start up

Sorry I haven't seen your post hahaha. Done lots to it! Lowered on ST coilovers, new wheels, new front lip, Whiteline rear anti rollbar, looking for the best Exhaust solution right now though. But I love it the way it is right now.

Actually it seems you are correct as the main generation is 3 phase which is 120 degrees but the way that they get 220/240V and 110/120V is to take what we call a single phase supply to a centre tapped transformer, to which the earth and neutral are connected. So you effectively get the same thing as our 110v portable tool transformers.

120 degrees in the UK/EU 3 phase system, but 180 degrees in the US 2 phase system.

Stop Start and Lane assist are "mandated" to be on. Been that way for a while. Thank your lucky stars we can still turn them off and the setting persists until you turn the ignition off.

A few from the local Reservoir and nearby Country Park....... Time for a Snooze 😴 Little and Large 😁 Not come across these before 🤔 Full Steam Ahead! And a few others.....................

I don't think this has been posted before, but if it has, I apologise for the duplication.

Thank you Pete and Lee for your confirmation

It's normal and I doubt it's alterable. Won't flatten the battery unless the brake pedal is pushed continuously.

It's normal. I think you can change the setting using something like Carista but I wouldn't bother.

The Moon a few days back............ Full tonight although too cloudy for a clear view 😕

Agreed ^^^^^. Sounds like time for a new battery. Not worth the hassle of putting up with a dying battery for £80 or so.

Found the file I needed (MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526_MU1440.7z) here - https://mega.nz/folder/yQEx2DQB#LQaN6QAreTRLGVMaXPyHQg Successfully updated with it this afternoon. They also have the following versions if anyone needs them - MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4518_MU1240.7z MHI2_ER_SKG13_K4524_MU1382.7z MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343_MU1433.7z MHI2_ER_SKG11_K2129_2_MU0848.7z

The torrential rain arrived............. 20251019_133134~2.mp4

Recently visited the Helios installation at Fountains Abbey. National TrustHelios at Fountains Abbey | YorkshireHelios at Fountains Abbey, North Yorkshire A spectacular sight once the sun had set ☀️ Some judicious use of Magic Eraser in the first image!

Some shots from Holy Island. Settings were all over the place for the camera after Knockhill. Didn’t realise til afterwards. Castle is a phone shot.

Looks a great car and nice pic too. Do you have any more plans for it? Once you start tinkering it’s hard to stop!

Yes I did know that EV's use a 3 phase AC motor and that that comes from a built-in inverter in the car and the speed of that motor is adjusted by adjusting the frequency of the AC supply to the motor. The same basic concept that is used on variable speed industrial motor drives on machinery. Yes I also know the risks associated with higher current flows that cause overheating, hence why we use over current protection devices, circuit breakers, HRC fuses, MCCBs etc. But the first and foremost consideration has to shock protection in the first instance. Let me tell you something, I have been in the electrical industry since day 1 when I left school and spent over 8 years building up my qualifications so I do actually know what I'm talking about. EDIT. My comment about the phases was not a statement made by me, but was actually made by @PetrolDave hence why I said, I knew and that I put it down to a typo, not mine but by @PetrolDave 😒