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All good, thanks Breezy. New to the forum world. Shall be pestering as soon as I can figure out how to pester. 😀

OT slightly but: Some of the worst examples of barely visible rear indicators are where the indicator is a iny amber dot surrounded by the brake and side lights, and yesterday I saw a car where the front indicator is in the same lens as the halogen DRL so all you see is a slight increase in the amber/orange light.

^^^ agree, it doesn't look like oil got into the back end where the brushes and sliprings are, although cleaning off the aux. belt might be a good idea.

There is an announcement now from the European Commission on the watered down plans over the ban on selling petrol and diesel cars. It is not to be 100% 'Zero emission' vehicles only available. It is to be 90% sold from 2035. That could obviously change again if German Car makers keep on moaning and getting their own way. After all Germany dictates what happens in the EU. Time will tell what happens in the UK once the government think on.

You won't be paying 'road tax', that went years ago. You will be paying VED 'vehicle excise duty' and this 'tax' does not go directly to the upkeep of the roads.

Was 2010? Superb hence my hyperlink. Caddy Maxi is a van conversion over here, WAV (wheelchair access vehicle), WAVs are very sort after over here.

Some people really should not be allowed in the driving seat of a car, AUTO lights are only really designed to prevent the numpties from driving at night with no lights on. That said, of course, the manufacturers then go and give them the option of switching them off completely which negates the point of giving them the AUTO function in the first place??

Okay - we need more information. What make/brand and type of battery did you use? I tend to put in the model number of the battery as its serial number unless it has a serial number sticker on it. Did you change the Ah charging rate? You always need a unique and different serial number, so don't use all ones.....bad practice.

I've always been puzzled why the Type Approval regulations specify brightness of the indicators, but say nothing about their proximity to other (brighter?) lamps which make them more difficult to see? They've allowed form (design & aesthetics) to override function (visibility) IMHO.

Taken them long enough. Looking forward to their amazing low purchase price small BEV,s they have trailed for quite a few years now. PS. Thomas nice as he is needs to walk back from the car a bit and see the 'Barely visible indicators' at the rear of the car. Quite common on vehicles now.

The very important to VAG ID Polo (not being called ID2). Smaller option battery car only get 37 kwh battery. Bigger one gets same as R5 52 kwh. Slightly bigger than R5, bigger battery version has some quite pokey versions. Conservative styling, no bad thing probably, but what will be the prices and will it get the £3,750 UK grant ?

Googling recently re smart link activation and I found a recent YouTube video which is clear and easy to follow and after following the instructions, it worked. I have android auto and apple car play installed successfully Smart link activation you just need a cheap OBD2 dongle from ebay, I used this one and downloaded an app from the play store that is mentioned in the video, took about half an hour to do Save Reply Quote

I've owned this car from nearly new. Currently it's got 80k on the clock. It's serviced every year. Oil service one year, a 20k service the next (even if it hasn't done that mileage). Any repair that's needed gets done straight away. It needed new shock absorbers early on, quality ones were fitted. It had a new cambelt at 60k. I like the car very much, the space in the boot and amount you can get in with the rear seats down is great. I'm thinking I would like to keep this car for a long time. Regular maintenance would be undertaken to help keep the car going. I might look at having the bodywork underneath treated to hold back rust and corrosion and would be prepared to have a new turbo fitted if needed.. Given all that, has anyone got any thoughts on what sort of mileage I might get before the car packs up? I drive 'normally', I don't push it too hard but motorway journeys will be at 70mph. I accelerate quickly if I have to (the turbo is great), but not all the time. I realise some cars can come to the end of their life earlier than others despite regular maintenance. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated.

Hi! I changed the oil on my 2008 1.2 HTP and when I removed the oil filter, I was stupid and a good amount spilled right on the alternator. Now I'm worried the alternator is/will be damaged. Is it a big deal? Is there anything I can/should do about it?

Quick hello, how’s everyone’s world? Happy?

Of course. Skoda are manufacturers of happy drivers 😆 Welcome to Briskoda 👍

Hi, welcome to Briskoda. My world is good today, thanks, how's yours?

Then my conversation would have been along the lines of “here’s your car back”.

Very chequered driving history. Triumph Herald,Morris Mini,Triumph Dolomite,Ford Escort estate,Ford Capri,Land Rover,alfa 33,VW Golf GTi MkII,VW Passat estate,Toyota Rav 4,three x Audi A2`s,VW Up and now the Fabia.Plus commercials Nissan cabstar,ford 35cwt van,daihatsu 4 x 4,Toyota Lite Ace. Also bikes Yam RD 250 and 350LC,Kawasaki S3 Triple,Harley Sportster,Suzuki GT380,Moto Guzzi 850 T3. Definitely prefer the earlier models easier to diagnose what`s gone wrong. If I find the cause of my present woes I will let you know.

2019 Superb estate 1.5 manual

And the car is back at the dealership... diagnosing the issue, hope that it's resolved soon!

Don't worry about it. Unlikely to cause a problem, I think.

Keeping on servicing, spark plugs will have been changed twice by now i assume. I hope the air filter gets checked at least at the 2nd year services. Has the brake fluid been changed? Having a proper clean underneath and dry then rust inhibitor then a coating is a very good thing. It would have been best done before now.

I've literally just finished giving it a tickle with some oven cleaner, came up lovely!!

both for my wife driver

yes i have distrophy muscular...

ok boss

Over the 3 year that I've had my RS, I've had 3 windscreens done. 2 by stone chips both in the line of vision and needed to be replaced, I'm on my 3rd now, but the OEM one & it's replacement were described as low quality, this one has been much better quality I think it's made by a French company. I think its Saint Gobain.

Mine was really bad with thick black solid crud. It was a lot worse than yours. I left it overnight submerged in some kerosene then used a toothbrush to clean it. Gave it a quick spray of brake cleaner and it came out like new. As for the valves try some liquid moly valve cleaner fuel additive. Its around a tenner on amazon. Havent used it on my skodas as there all diesel but it did work very well on my old volvo 940 petrol. You could also treat it to a tank of high octane fuel while your at it. Alasdair

Thanks for the replies. I seemed to be doing everything I read, apart from realising I could use a USB drive as an alternative to the SD card. For some reason the minute I tried a USB with the same files, it worked! So I will know what to do next time I update - thanks again.

ok thanks😉

Hi, welcome. In case you've not seen it already, as well as other subject sections on Briskoda, there is a Superb section that also includes a section for the Mk2 with experienced owners that can help with advice and details. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/

Amundsen mib2 Go through the video, he tells you the limitations of ghis fix

Yes sorry . The tank was drained and new diesel plus correct injector cleaner added

Dont Update a unit with Hardware 02. The Chance that IT will brick is High

I made a guide for someone on here not too long ago, it’s quite in depth but have a read Skoda Columbus Map Update.pdf

You can Not JUMP in Other Firmware Train

Have you monitored the battery voltage under various conditions - ignition off, ignition on, just after starting, while driving several minutes after starting and while braking? Those measurements will give clues whether the Battery Management System is working correctly. I use something like this in the 12V socket LED Voltmeter USB

Yes, also the tensioner, it seems like the bit VW Group supply is just the new belt, so there is no kits available from VW Group as this task is not a regular service item. So, as well as getting the belt changed, you should also be making sure that your garage is "creating" a kit to do that job, ie add in a tensioner. When I got the cambelt changed on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI at a proper VAG Indie, the parts listed included a tensioner as a line item. We tend to expect maybe 15 years out of a car, so I considered that at the 10 years and 55K miles point, now was the time to pay to get that job done to avoid worrying about "what if" or "if only I had". The guy that takes the money said, as I left, "that will be you for another 5 years"!

You need to code in a new battery. The battery voltage will remain low until you tell the BMS that it has a new battery.

The R5 reversing light and fog light are incredibly small, I mean a cm or two !

😂 no worries mate. It was my Boss the introduced me to Skodas he's had probably 5 Octavia's. I'm older now and hopefully will learn from my lessons from before. I installed the largest bolt on the WRX could have. Forced Performance FP RED. I had a stand alone ECU, Used big port JDM heads, 2.5 bottom end weisco pistons, alcohol injection FM ic. It was making 410 WHP but lost it's daily driver appeal. I'd like to buy a TDI Rs Skoda. MK2 or 3 next year 👍

Dealer would be able to do a. Full diagnostic on the car. However given the age, a decent alternative would be a specialist VAG independent with a good reputation. They’ll have all the right stuff and be cheaper on the hourly rate. As to whether you repair or return - I’d say it depends if you like the car. Sounds like the seller is willing to entertain the idea of helping out with costs; the key word there is “reasonable” as that is subjective. The two main issues with electrical gremlins have always been and will always be: Battery on its way out. ABS sensor has gone duff. So first thing to do would be to check not only the charge of the battery but also the health of the battery. Traditionally it’s 4 years old, but going on anecdotal info on here, it could be anywhere between 5 and 15 years old - so age is always trumped by getting a decent multimeter on there to check it.

@mac11irl the planet has a long history of climate changes; there is no denying that fact, but at the same time, if man goes round destroying all the natural CO2 sinks, such as rainforests, etc, which consume vast quantities of C02 and in return give us clean oxygen, then climate change will be accelerated. The recent COP conference decimated loads of forest real estate and for what? Nothing came out from the meeting and vast amounts of CO2 was dumped into the atmosphere needlessly.

☹️

My philosophy is that the car will be worth bog-all at the end of 15 years, and certainly not the cost of a belt replacement. Just make sure that you've got decent breakdown cover; if it 'goes bang' you can throw it away.

Looks like it is not a serviceable item. Thanks for the replies.

A lot of people rave about Cross Climates, however when I've tried them on my car, I wasn't impressed with their wet performance, especially when worn. Quite a few all season tyre tests criticise the wet performance of them too. I am currently running Pirelli and a pair or warn Goodyear all seasons and can't fault them. The Pirelli all seasons have won tyre tests for the last 2 years. As I always say, buy the best tyres you can afford, remember it's the only thing that touches the road!

I have had this intermittently yesterday and today (both -5c days) but also with: (Tyre pressure unavailable, abs unavailable, ESC unavailable, cornering lights unavailable Auto hold unavailable) all flash on at the exact same time. If I clear the codes, they go. Then after about an hour of driving in the cold they'll suddenly come on again.Makes for very tedious motorway driving.!!

With some of the TDIs, the question was often "Should the cambelt be changed at the same time as the water pump?", because the pump often failed before the belt was due for replacement. See the sticky thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/453298-the-mk3-octavia-tdi-water-pump-thread/