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There are two buttons. The right hand one changes the style of layout and the l ft hand one cycles through the level of detail from full, medium to low. My guess is you are on medium or low which means the traditional rev counter and Speedo won’t display until you cycle to it with the left hand of the two buttons

I too would be walking away. Though my last word to the sales staff before leaving would be that if they put the car through the workshop, find the fault, and fix it, they'd be welcome to invite you back for another test drive. I certainly wouldn't be committing to buy the car on the understanding that any faults can be fixed after you take ownership.

Personally, I would walk away and look at others.

make sure the radar sensor and windscreen are clean

I'd also keep the wiper. Dunno why but all the Skoda's I've had (MkI Fabia Hatch, MkII Fabia estate x2, MkIII Fabia estate and a Skoda Rapid) have all seemed to suffer road spray on the rear screens. I prefer to know what/ who's behind me.

A lovely part of the country where some pretty decent people come from IMO. Not that I'm a little biased 😛

Ours (really wife's car, and she doesn't use it much) does it sometimes. It's a bit weird as if you try and provoke it with different types of starts it doesn't do it. Then don't think about it, and it'll judder. It seems not to do it with the gearbox in Sport mode, but I just don't drive it enough to pin it down. I'm not 100% convinced it isn't the tyres. It's very easy to provoke front wheel spin - I've found they're sensitive to pressure - should be 31psi, put 36 in them and they go mad.

Possibly because earlier EA888 engines had issues with stretching timing chains and failing chain tensioners - at 2017, OP should have a EA888/3 engine and AFAIK, these particular issues were sorted by then.

Hello 👋 I had a 2015 vRS. Mine was an estate, and I felt it needed the rear wiper. I also quite like badges, but I wouldn’t bother putting them on if I didn’t have any. Gaz

Nice. Your car so why bother what others think. Personally i require a rear wiper because of road conditions / weather.

BEV,s are just the best for freezing / icy conditions. The correct tyres and the De-icing in minutes. No De-Icer or Pre-deicer required.

Cheers Mike. That gives me some sort of rough idea pricing. Given the chance I'd be up for buying a donor car but my Mrs would strangle me or I'd at least be single. She's a gooden so no way can I get a donor car lol

It sounds like it's running on two, or even one cylinder. It may be the ignition module, mine was more sensitive to moisture, probably because of cracked insulation. But it can also be just flooded, I remember starting Skoda 120 in winter and listening, as cylinders joined one by one (btw, that car needed depressed clutch, as the oil in transmission became too thick - but it didn't use wide range oil like Felicia) Have you tried to just disconnect the sensor? Iirc, ECU uses substitute value if the signal is out of range, which is still far from actual temp, but may be closer than whatever is sensor feeding now. FYI, you don't need to wait for pump every time, like with diesel glow plugs. The function is there just to prime the fuel lines and flush gas bubbles that could be there after long standing. Newer cars do that once you open driver's door. Once priming's done, you get full pressure almost immediately and if you want until the pump stops, it's the same as if you didn't wait at all, since the pump doesn't reactivate until you turn the key.

VRS TSI is a chain, VRS TDI is a belt.

Moisture in the antenna base on the roof. My Amundsen+ satnav in my mk2 occasionally throws a hissy fit like this, had me somewhere in the British midlands once, while I was driving around near home in South Tipperary… Ireland…

Oh that's ideal (especially if it was me, as they're just down the road). That's just a Skoda dealership with an online parts selling operation. Have used them once or twice, no problems.

I don't recall anything, honestly. It has generally been poor weather the last week or two, so it could be water, or it could be some other contaminant, or a mix of both. I did find that the rubber part of the pipe had split in another place, to the point that putting self-amalgamating tape around the bits I had seen caused it to fall straight off the hard plastic connector. In one of the pictures, you can see the slightly split connector with a grey pen or paint marking on it, which has a plastic connector, and another rubber hose on the bottom half. This pipe leads into the engine. The rear of that had entirely split, which is why I didn't see it. I have put tape around that as well, and ordered some jubilee clips to put around all 3 connection points for my own sanity. I do feel like the pipe leading into the engine may well need replacement as it seems to be quite inflexible compared to what I'd expect a hose to be like, but maybe I'm overreacting.

Actually, that little plastic tank is a Degasser, even with the stat shut, you should see a small flow of water entering this tank, remove the cover and watch it.

Very good, what you might do now sometime is to drive the car normally and ensure the diagnostics see a temperature of at least 86/88C, the stat opening temp, it goes fully open a ~ 98C so would expect around 90/93C (actual temp) under normal driving conditions, it might rise to the stat opening value while idling but may not at these low ambient temperatures now.

Do what Roger Bannister did in just under 4 minutes

Just saying hi thoughts on adding vrs badges as hasnt got any and rear wiper delete whats peoples opinions

Hi 👋 new to the community, purchased my 1st skoda octavia vrs 245. So far I love it.

Your speedo is already over reading. The difference is just a ba;s hair. The new tyres might if you put a tape measure around the circumference be the same as worn tyres.

Disconnect the battery. Hold the positive and negative terminals together. Wait 10 minutes and reconnect them. Start the vehicle, turn the steering wheel fully to the left, then to the right, then to the center. Drive around the block once. Then clear all fault codes in the BCM, but first change the diagnostic session to developer mode.

Update - so after a night in the warm garage, we just tried turning it over and it caught first time - still running a bit lumpy, still smelling a faint whiff of fuel, and it needed coaxing to get some revs, but much, much better than yesterday, when it was outside in the cold. My son's mechanic colleague will be coming round with his diagnostic kit later this evening, so we'll see what he finds.

ve had another quote which is much more reasonable and also closer to home. Once Ive had the two front wishbones and the light snsor done in a couple of weeks, ll look to get the dsg oil changed. I have as previously mentioned little to nothing as far as previous history so Im starting from scratch, hence the cambelt change..

Thanks mate - I've updated it with those essential details!

If a DQ250 6 speed wet clutch DSG there is a 40,000 mile service interval, oil & filter. Needs doing. ............. Leave it be is the DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG, which has 2 oils and no Service Regime, Guidelines, Schedule, etc. But some still get done after quite a few years miles.

Its under manufacturer warranty until Dec 2028. Its had one oil change which was done at 9 month old/5,100 miles. Its got 5400 miles on it now.

PIR just makes it easier for the scumbags to work. Non-drying security paint would prbably work better.

I've had "normal" cruise control on all my cars since 1999 and liked using it when I could, which with our increasingly crowded roads became less and less frequently, otherwise I had to keep turning it on and off and resetting the set speed. So when I got my first Octavia 3 in 2016 which had ACC I loved the ability to safely use it much more frequently as it really de-stressed long drives as it adapted to the speed of the vehicles in front. I agree with @NamePlate that I now wouldn't get a car without ACC.

It's interesting (to me at least!) that, when the Fabia Mk4 was initially marketed, the 1.5litre motor was not offered and there were no "Monte Carlo" models. The available 'trims' were S, SE Comfort, SE L and Colour Edition, and ALL of these had drum rear brakes as standard with optional disc rear brakes (£95) for ALL four trims. Nowadays, in the UK, all new Fabia Mk4 cars have drum rear brakes, except for those that have the 1.5litre motor and have rear discs as standard.. There's no longer an option to choose rear disc brakes for Fabias that do not have the 1.5litre motor. New Fabia Mk4 cars marketed in France ALL have disc rear brakes as standard, except for the basic trim that has no-option drum rear brakes. Whether this is because the French motorways have a higher maximum speed-limit than the UK, or because France is more mountainous than the UK is anybody's guess. (It might be educational to establish whether the the UK is unique in having most Fabia Mk 4 cars with no-option drum rear brakes, but I ain't doing it!) The back axle of a small front-wheel-drive car is mainly there to keep the car's backside from dragging on the ground and the rear brakes only contribute around 20% to the car's deceleration capability. Although disc brakes are less prone to overheating, I'm very doubtful that a Fabia Mk4 with rear discs would - at slow speeds - decelerate even more violently than an equivalent Fabia with rear drums. Returning to fabia1960's original posting last July, it's plain from online comments about modern cars' brakes (and particularly about the brakes of VW Group cars) that their brakes generally at slow speed are sharp/sensitive/unprogressive, sometimes verging on the savage, and that this is a (much disliked/criticised) 'characteristic' rather than a correctable fault.

Hi guys, I know that the Skoda Karoq is not the same as the Skoda Octavia MK4 but I just wanna say that, using an ELM327 and CarScanner app, I successfully read the dataset and I have also tried some presets and I can say that for sure, the sound is a lot better, I mean, a lot better than the stock: deeper bass, higher volume. First I did a dump of the current dataset(the stock one) and later I have tried to modify manually the dataset using the tutorials from mqbsound but for some reason the dataset was rejected and an error code was present in the 5F module( I guess the CRC was wrong). Then, I have tried the option #4 from the presets and now it's like my sound system came alive 😅 Now, I am planning to soundproof the door cards.

Battery needs to be coded into the cars electrics or the car will charge it as if it was an old battery, so the new battery never reaches its potential, so to speak. Sorry cross post Warrior1963

Pls admap_09_O3_VFL.pdf

If you have off road option on your car, this is way better in snowy conditions than the snow mode itself. It also looses up all the driving aids and keeps revs higher to react immediately with gas pedal if needed.

' Evening TheAardvark, I had no idea this functionally existed in the car. I have since watch many many YouTube videos, changed Laura's voice to be female and tried playing with all sorts in general while on the drive. I believe the voice use would be much much safer, such alot of the settings are buried in sub menus. Thanks for identifying the capabilities of the car for me to investigate.

It's a really poor idea to rely on 'idiot lights' when it comes to maintaining vital fluid levels in a machine that can destroy itself very rapidly if they are not there.

Bad choice AI is not intelligent, it just matches word patterns. Id stick to human or good old internet searches

Pretty sure it's a timing belt, so I'd be finding a new more competent garage. Id go to these guys. I understand that the interval is more like Inspection at 240,000km Inspection every 30K thereafter Replace at 290K or 15 yrs of you want (185k miles) I did mineat 300,000km. Seemed fine before that (I inspect it a few times, no cracks or frays) but the idlers are probably the weak point and you can't really check them

Try adding more oil to bring the level fully to the top of the indicator line on the stick - it's possible that there's a hysteresis in the switch between warning off/on.

Be aware of D's advice don't buy a cheap one, an incorrect or p1ss-poorly modern made part could introduce more problems than it solves, if it solves anything. I'm not against spending small amounts of money on parts to save unwanted hassle but it does need to give some resolve or you're just delaying the issue. Sometimes/often keeping or refurbishing an old or original can be better than replacing with a modern made part even if the modern made parts fits and works. Once a car is driveable things tend to be a lot easier to sort, and things improve more as the car is used more and with more regular frequency over reasonable distance journeys where the engine oil gets fully warmed and so do the other systems and they are exercised more. As with the exhaust smoke perhaps, which if not part of your current issue, could perhaps be bettered with car use, servicing and maintenance and the use of petrols with lower ethanol and higher cleaning additive packages. Without knowing the history of the car you can think it'll be a quick wash 'n' polish and the imagined obligatory change of engine oil and it's off to the next owner with a profit, all those "classic" car turn-around shows are very, very, economical with the truth..

As with the others here part of the experienced garage mechanic friend's diagnostic kit will be his education, training and experience. But also probably a multimeter as well as his human senses. You and your son won't have the friend's education, training and experience butt you can both gain some education and experience from the ownership and running of the Felicia and you have your human senses, you can look, listen, smell, taste (careful with that) and feel things on and about the car. It doesn't seem you get much out of these cars with the, over relied on now, scan tools but even with the newer cars a human can tell there's something wrong even when the computers don't throw up error codes. (parameters tend to be very wide on some things).

I don't know if this will help but on one of my Roomsters (same setup), I had to sit in the back seat and shove it back with some force before the mechanism would allow me to lift the seat out. But that was only with the rear seats in their original positions.

Normal. The servo has to let cabin air into its rear chamber when pedal is pressed, to provide the assistance. I suspect your attention to it has just been heightened by anxiety about brake function.

I think a scan of the car with ODBEleven or VCDS to see if the GPS receiving circuits have failed - is probably a good first call. The MIB system will report this to the car if it has problems in that direction.

Did you not try to start the Octavia whilst connected? Never heard of a jump start being trying to charge the battery with another car.

Your sequence is basically correct, except you need to put the header tank cap on for the special cleaner additive (because it needs to get up to temperature). Part number is 5Q0121407AA for the header tank. Apologies, my previous instructions were slightly incorrect: you add it (the cleaner) to the existing coolant, run the engine to circulate the cleaner, and then drain and flush the system with clean water before refilling with new, approved coolant. I suggest that you remove some of the coolant in the header tank first, then replace with flush. Refill the system with water, add in more flush, repeat several times. So - here in the order: a) First - replace the header tank, so no more silica gets into the system. 1) Remove some of the coolant in the header tank 2) Add in the VAG flush agent into the coolant header tank 3) Seal up and run up to temperature 4) Cool and then drop the coolant 5) Flush out with tap water 6) Refill with tap water and add in flush into the system. 7) Seal up and run up to temperature. 8) Repeat steps 5,6,7 a couple more times until dirt and silica beeds stop coming out of the system. VAG techs have been known to do this up to 6 times to get out all the silica. 9) Fill up with VAG G12EVO coolant (concentrate - dilute first or premade) 10) Bleed system using VCDS/ODBEleven (with header tank cap off - top off with G12evo as necessary) That's it.

Thanks for reporting back and giving the information you found. Interesting exercise, well done on completing it. Very involved and time consuming though, particularly if the result is the same as finding the (majority at least) information that has already been posted on here. AI may be correct this time (or may not) but it is only a word prediction machinery covering to some extent most common prediction. Like any real live person on the internet it is not looking at, listening, smelling, touching or testing and check and cross-referencing your actual car and its parts, components and systems. I don't understand why you need a new wiring loom for a crack in the PCB, or faulty relay as in other cases, that's parts cannon behaviour. What I don't understand is have you completed the repair and tested the repair to have fully sorted the cold start problem?

Anybody can help with removal of the diagnostic socket from the under steering panel? How is it fixed to the panel?