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Installed Auxito LED reversing and indicator bulbs this evening. Much brighter and clearer. Another simple but effective upgrade. Difficult to photograph but hopefully the difference is visible. It certainly is in person.

Problem resolved, the bonnet lock sensor had not reset after opening and closing the bonnet. Opened the bonnet and a firm closing restored normal operations of the wipers. will just have to watch what happens when opening and closing the bonnet.

I think the requirement to drive every day is complete BS. If there would be such requirement it would be a major deal breaker for most buyers. I bet every dealer has plenty of cars on their inventory which stay put for a month or more between drives. I use my 265hp 4x4 also for long distance drives and it gets plenty of rest in between maybe up to 3 weeks so far without any noticeable problems. What I have noticed is that after a week or so of inactivity the keyless entry proximity sensor for approaching key stops working and I have to press a button on the key to open doors. I guess the car goes for some kind of deep sleep after a week of not getting driven. The mobile app and AUX heater still works though.

I see drivers that do not bother that there is a 40 or 50 minute max charging time then £1 a Minute or a £30 fine. Even a £55 fine, or idling time penalty at TESLA Chargers. Van drivers that say, 'really, i need the charge', or one Taycan driver i know that when i pointed out he was a couple of hours over the Max Charge time, to mind my own business. That sort of carry on is why some people hit the emergency stop button when car just abandoned charging. Worse still not charging but locked in. There are people that leave a car so it is not locked in though. Personally i always go to chargers showing RED to see if i can reset them. @lol-lol I know VAT policy is 4 nations wide. It was 'Court' i was questioning. I have been to a Tribrunal against the DWP but it was not A Court.

I thought it was a HMRC tribunal that dealt with it. Because VAT is a UK-wide tax managed by HMRC, the tribunal's authority is not limited to "GB". https://www.gov.uk/courts-tribunals/first-tier-tribunal-tax

When I said not to bad to change I meant the engine mounts. Think the bushes in dog bone are more difficult although I have seen polybush repair kits for them. I think there is an insert to save removing old bushes in chassis etc. looks like this Alasdair

Another point, the reduced size spare is usually only intended as a temporary fitment until the damaged one can be repaired and refitted.

People / Drivers are discovering that a PHEV that are for runs mainly or exclusively on electric is 'Simply not clever'. Not clever for the ICE and its longevity. Oil & Plugs and GPF. Actually Hybrids are not much use for a mile or 2 to the shops and back because the engine needs to fire up for both batteries to charge.

Hi all, Skoda Fabia owner. Bought first Skoda last year and, mostly, loving my new little car so far.

Lovely (full) Moon this evening....

You cannot engage it accidently

The R5 has the cabin lights to close to the SOS calling button. Not so clever.

People are driving about in Demonstrators, Courtesy cars, Fleet / Leased vehicles with all sorts of power trains and being Tracked. That is as well as those with Black Boxes they know are fitted.

I am starting to hate mine. I sold a perfectly good Audi A3 to fund this turd and I regret it immensely. The EV stuff works fine, the car itself which you would expect Skoda to have got sorted is less so. Rattles, buzzes, ticks and clicks from the tailgate - thought I had fixed them but they suddenly came back with vigour. I also get random buzzes and rattles from the dash depending on the temperature and road surface. Turn up the sound system and the speakers rattle the door cards. Around 5K miles there is a knocking from the steering rack when turning the steering wheel left or right at low speed or stationary. Skoda dealers are useless and say its normal, Skoda UK side with the dealer as to VWFS, Financial ombudsman took VWFS side so I am stuck with this until I hand the keys back or sell it at a loss. Around 10K miles front nearside suspension started squeaking over sharp bumps. I will get this looked at but I expect another 'fault not found' or 'characteristic' brush off. The suspension while not the worst is firm and a little crude at times even on 19" wheels with 55 profile tyres. While I can live with it given the other issues it further fuels the anger. The clear coat while not the softest I have come across is very prone to water spot etching and bugs stain it. Buy and learn how to use a machine polisher or get it wrapped if this sort of thing ****es you off. I could be forced to spend a weekend tearing the car to pieces and isolating the issues, however for a car that costs over £30k I don't think that is acceptable. It was a new car not a weekend project car. The lack of support from Skoda is also very disappointing. Christ, even when we picked the car up the plastic trim on the lower sill had come away from the bodywork and they still put it through the PDI. Would not buy another.

I just got my notification about this ocu update today, but i will wait for a while and see if there are any problems with it.

The caveat here is the warranty, even battery warranty. To keep that properly alive, i.e. no lawyers and guns necessary to convince the manufacturer that's your battery, engine, etc are covered, is to service the EV at a dealership. Now a Nissan dealership charges as much for a Leaf servicing as my trusted garage for a DIESEL!

^^^ 'Absolutely'. As it is 'We' who need electricity to charge the car and do not claim back VAT have to get what we need. Maybe the Big Battery vehicles need just 60 % of a charge, which for a 32 kW battery car could be needing 100% charged to get 110 miles.

On rereading your post I'm assuming a 265 can only be pure ICE - sounds to me that either your alternator isn't charging correctly or the battery is faulty. What is the battery voltage when the engine is running?

I agree but not what I was referring to or meant to imply. Many people take a spare wheel out of the boot and it has never been checked and sitting in there many years so without checking there's no telling what pressure it might be at. Possibly overinflated or more likely under inflated or as the with the 2012 car I helped put the spare wheel on, tyre almost completely flat. Not the first time I've had a spare taken from the boot that is well under inflated or flat - and a spare wheel in a boot but not a jack or wheel brace and certainly not a pump or accurate pressure gauge, that's how things are. I've no idea how old Gammyleg's wheel and tyre are or what pressure it might be at but if it wasn't checked then neither does anyone and I wondered if that might be the cause, or the system not reset from other tyre going down. Has Scotland fully adopted the metric systems, by sheer coincidence 20 year ago I had trouble with an electronic tyre pressure gauge lent to me as it was being used by the owner on his "classic" MBG and I expected it to be set to psi and not Bar as he had it, with the gauge details of bar on it too small for me to notice as the Scottish wet "sun rays" covered me and the gauge. Just damp enough to potentially make the road surfaces greasy. The type of cars I used to drive made things like tyres being correct even more important and they lacked all these bottom-wiping electronic driver aids and assists on modern cars so even more importance on the driver actually doing driver checks and maintenance, so I do have some experience. My last car, three years ago, for the previous 16 years, used as an everyday car through all seasons, was a 1973 MG Midget which was a basic and old design in 1973 let alone 2023 but I also drove/drive my wife's, friends and neighbours' modern cars so not entirely out of touch with today's cars.

Keep an eye on FaceBook market place - you can often pick up the complete kit for £25 - £50 including foam insert.............you might have to buy the big plastic securing bolt as these do vary on some vehicles.

When my old volvo turbo blew up I just bought a fairly cheap second hand one and it was fine for years. I may have been lucky. Few on ebay but reckon might be tricky getting a decent one. Might be worth contacting some breakers to see if they have anything thats guaranteed working/low mileage etc. A recore job is possible but has to be done properly and everything accurately balanced etc to avoid early failure. You could see if you could maybe get a recon echange unit. Alasdair

Another factory reset over the weekend followed by reinstall appears to have fixed it for my car

The radiator size sounds like 1.9D. how does the fan look like? Does the heater work when it overheats like this? Does it have air guide around the radiator, under the bumper cover? Without it, the air will just flow around the radiator, which would explain why it works properly on idle. Is the fan wired correctly? Does it push air into the engine bay (I've seen someone having similar issue and the culprit was the fan spinning the opposite way, effectively blocking the radiator)

Thanks Alasdair, I will check the dogbone out too, cheers! Adam :)

That was so well publicised that it seems that the local media sources were unaware of it. What actually happened, I suspect, is that they made all RHS members aware of it in an attempt to attract more of them to visit the site to increase revenue. Yes there has been a slow increase in the number of public chargers, all of which I have seen are low power. Local 12 shops and a large doctors surgery share 14 parking spaces between. They have just made 2 of those spaces EV-only with charging bollards installed so 2 cars can charge and I have yet to see a car being charged. Considering the ultimate aim is to get as many of us out of our cars and into PT, there is massive work to be done there as well. Last week I had to take my car in to have the AC fixed. The garage was 2.5 miles away and took just 11 minutes driving there. Had to leave the car, was told it would there all day, so needed to get home again. Walked to the bus stop, get a bus into the centre to catch the bus going near to home; length of route: 4 miles, 1 hr 25 minutes. Thirty minutes later, the phone rang, telling me the car was done (damn and blast) Off I go again back to collect it, this time it took 1 hr 15 minutes, cost was zero (free OAP card) but would have normally been £12 for the 4 buses. So thats 2 hrs 30 minutes for a trip would only taken 22 minutes by car. And this is supposed to be the future??

It happened to me but after 24h or so it fixed by itself, dont worry

I did have multimeter but operator error casued it to blow up 🫣 Good call on the V drop on cranking. Charger does have a V display.

I assume the two plugs sparking at same time is a wasted spark system I may be wrong but firing order is I think 1,3,4,2 as in your vid of the injectors fuel pattern but it doesnt seem to match sparking pattern. Seems to spark 5 times on 2,3 and then 5 times on 1,4 Alasdair

Škoda StoryboardWatch out – an emergency vehicle is approaching! Your Ško...You may not yet hear a siren or see flashing blue lights, but your car can already inform you that increased attention is required – or that you should immediately make way on the road. This new featu

I'll concede Monmouth is in Wales 🙃 And was about to point that out https://www.gridserve.com/pressroom/watts-occurring-gridserve-celebrates-st-davids-day-with-extension-of-ev-charging-hub-at-roadchef-magor-services/

I did the rear brake pads and discs on my 2018 1.5 TSI ACT Octavia recently. With manual handbrake so you've got to remember to take it of before you jack the car up. It was a reasonably straight forward job - only special tool needed was a calliper rewind tool. The disc came off without removing the carrier. As for size I took the wheel off and gave the disc a rough-ish measure -they are pretty small discs. They were Pagid pads and discs from Halfords. 20252268000030 Pagid Brake Pads 10144032 1 £13.30 20255458000030 Pagid Brake Discs 1044426 1 £38.65 20255458000030 Pagid Brake Discs 1044426 1 £38.65

Personally, I'd suggest topping the level back to just beneath the Max. line and monitor carefully for the next month - the quantity you have apparently 'lost' over a year is very small. Top up with G13 or G12 evo.

^^^This, plus the tyre on your 16 inch spare wheel will almost certainly be a different profile to the normal 17s fitted on the remaining corners - meaning that the overall circumference of the 16" will be similar to the 17"

I had a similar problem: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/477921-skoda-felicia-weird-temperature-problem/page/3/#findComment-5375868 First of all check for leaks ,not by vision only but with a special tool in a repair-shop. Remove check and replace the thermostat sensor, some times a small amoutn of dirt can cause false indication in the cluster gauge. Remove any air bubbles from the system. Remone the old coolant and replace it with G12 (not G12 plus).

It’s a fault I’m afraid which Škoda seem to have no idea how to fix! I had the same problem from the day I picked up the car in Feb 2025 until January of this year. In January I spent some time in the car trying to document the problem so I could present the document at my first service (23/02/2026). During the process the infotainment system suddenly went blank and eventually reset itself. That reset seemed to fix the problem so I couldn’t recreate the fault and consequently I had nothing to submit to the dealer. 4 days after the service the fault returned!! When its faulty a press of the “next track” button results in it going to the next album rather than the next track. You may find also that playlists don’t work either, same effect. Also it went through a phase where if I selected an album to play and that album was also present on my phone then the infotainment system would play track 1 from the usb stick then the same track from the phone then track 2 from the usb stick etc. etc. A cheap £5 mp3 player from China does a better job than Škoda. Not very good considering it’s a £45k+ car. Needless to say I won’t be having another Škoda…

AIUI, the early cars don’t have the remote lock/unlock capability; mine certainly doesn’t. I think it may be to do with the comms unit; mine can’t do OTA updates of the infotainment system itself, only apps and maps. Later builds can.

Guessing it's nesting time?

If you don't have a multimeter, can your charger read voltage while it's not charging? If so, leave it clamped to battery terminals while not charging and get someone to crank the engine over on the starter - voltage falling below around 10 volts indicates failing battery. A decent multimeter need not be expensive and is a very useful item for the toolbox.

A mk1 Fabia isn't really a newer petrol car, and even in those, after about late 2005 EGR's were dropped in petrol engines in those, I believe.

szia Tamas, it was with M8 Autócentrum in Dunaújváros, but important to know that I also reached out to Porsche Hungaria. After the fights yes, they replaced the module, but my biggest weapon was that the car was sold under WeltAuto communications, and they admitted that the problem was known before selling me the car.

The car is currently on a different plate. The chap who has it posts a lot on Instagram and although I'm not on there, my sister is. She sends me photos now and then to keep me in the loop. Elliott's been in touch a few times since I sold the car and it's being looked after. It's currently on the Octavia vRS MK1 Owners Club (#ovrsmk1oc) page on Facebook and is the car you first see. https://www.facebook.com/groups/mk1octaviavrsowners I'm still hoping to buy it back one day but that's probably a while off yet as I think Elliott isn't going to move it on anytime soon.

I use our 1.5 TSi for mostly short trips (less than 20 miles). It's OK so far at 1 year and 3.5k miles. It get 2-3 long (200mile) trips a year.

Nice sporty look 😃, but too ‘kerb friendly’ for me 😉…

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/8/839/839060 Item 13 'Normal' ones have part numbers beginning 6y6 and ending suffix A. Combi (estate) versions have part numbers for these parts starting 6y9 and having suffix B In all cases the part with 7 before the suffix is for left side, 8 for right. Clear?

The dealer called at 9AM on Tuesday saying VW had confirmed payment to them. I made a point of telling the service advisor that I'd spoken to VWFS the previous afternoon and they said they'd spoken to her for a second time at 10.30 the previous day and confirmed they would cover the cost. That was an hour before I'd left the dealer so there was absolutely no need to tell me I would have to pay if VW wouldn't. This service advisor has history of always having to have the last word. Funnily enough I haven't had an invition to do a customer saltisfaction survey - but I may well contact the service manager next week (he is on holiday this week) and suggest he might have a staff training issue.

Oh that’s an awful situation. One thought, has the water pump siezed, as I’ve read reports of water pumps and belt tensioners failing causing damaged cam belts.

Some years ago I sat and waited while 1st service was done on daughter's Golf and the car was in the workshop 20 mins - the inspection was very basic, just lights and beep the horn. They accidently gave me the invoice that should have gone the VWFS and it was £68 inc parts and labour. Normal price at the time was £180. Bearing in mind how long ago it was, those Marshall's prices look like a throwback to past times! I guess if there was no price variation people would say it was a cartel, but the differences are hefty. After being told brake fluid change on our Kamiq would be £80 I wondered what the Audi dealer across the road would charge, so put a random Q2 into the Audi service site - it was £56 at the dealer across the road from Skoda. I tried it again today with a different Q2 and it came up at £110. Tried another Q2 - £69. How odd - it quotes different prices for the same model. Servicing seems a complete rip-off - on SpeakEV the other day someone booked a service online for £150. On taking it in dealer said it be £500 - he pointed out he'd booked online at £150 and without batting an eye they said "OK, fine"!

Just to update I manged to fit a new strut to the right hand side it took me around 1 hour thanks to these great instructions all working again, turns out it was a broken wire so I have kept the old strut and will repair it when I get chance so we have a spare one if needed Buying the ones from eBay and fitting it myself saved me around £1100

1) I have removed the back seat. For me, it's modular, so I can just unhook one seat and remove it. 2) I have removed the handle. Slide the plastic cover from one side with the help of a plastic wrench in order to avoid plastic scratches and damage. The same for the other side. 3) I have removed the lock carrier. Just pull it and it should unclip. No screws there. 4) Remove the bottom C-pillar trim panel. This one was a bit tricky. I have managed just to unhook the upper side and slide it enough to access the screws for the next part. 5) Now, all screws should be accessible to remove the luggage compartment side trim panel. After unscrewing and unhooking it, you can slide it over a seatbelt (as you probably don't want to remove that either). 6) The last part is removing the trim panel of pillar C. After unscrewing and unclippingthe lower parts, I couldn't remove it from the headline or sky, as we call it in my country, so I just used my inflatable bag to expand it enough so my hand could reach the connector. After this is done, you can access the connector, the only one there, and simply unhook it and pull out the defective strut. You can easily find out how struts are removed from the knobs (hint: just pull the wire). Connector: One picture summed up the order:

Mine is currently asking me to ‘Update now’ for the fourth time 🙄 The infotainment system also on v.1941. My plan is to ignore it…