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Lovely colours earlier just as the Sun was setting..................

Always used 97/99 or an octane booster when E10 was the only available product. 95% it’s Tesco Momentum.

As per my reply to your other post, stop any further attempts to start engine. It is highly likely that the fuel rail bolts have failed or loosened! Hopefully you have home recovery as it will probably be necessary to recover to garage.

Looking forward to seeing in the flesh and driving the new Dacia Striker. Price from £22,000. 2 Mild Hybrid engines 128bhp & 138bhp & a Full Hybrid 153 bhp. Also an option of 4 wheel drive 1.2 litre petrol with an electric motor driving the rear wheels

You need a modified meta file. Then run Swdl manually. First, select everything and manually deselect Emergency Main and CPU. Perform the update. That should all work, then reinstall the full firmware. Emergency Main and CPU should then also run. You can also perform a firmware Train JUMP upgrade without Toolbox. Now you need QNX... I developed my own contact method,see Picture With black frame. If the emergency menu appears, you can still try using a pin clamp and PuTTY.

A good USB cable is a must, but will wear out the phone connection eventually. There are several wireless adapters that will give you wireless carplay.

Thanks for the response. Curiously following another OTA software update it’s been working fine. Of course, it may just be a coincidence.

Thanks, that's as I thought, then. Good.

I think the inlet manifold is your vacuum source. Only diesels have tandem pumps as far as I know. I think since the only gas flow here is from servo towards engine, the oil must be brake fluid. Source of that must be master cylinder I reckon.

@lol-lol Pretty crap if Dacia are launching new models and carrying over faults / issues from previous Dacia or Renaults. That would make them just like Skoda / VW Group.

Could it be a failing vacuum pump thats letting oil in? Trace back the servo hose. Alasdair

Love them, aways have a look at them when visiting the Renault showroom. Just a warning that the hybrids, all version I reckon, are complex and do go wrong sometimes as we found out in our Clio that went back after 2 years as became a lemon. One daughters simple 1 litre TCE was as economical and simple, cheaper etc, not as nice to drive but hybrid is a con trick in my opinion and millions will find this out over the next few years. Simple petrol or full electric. Revised 100 hp Spring is much better than the Mk1 65 hp one and incredibly cheap to buy and run. Hope there are some more pure electric Dacia and Dacia-Renault understand in today's world anything with an ICE engine is susceptible to foreign wars !

Had same on my old 58 plate. Dim warning lights like DPF etc (only visible at night) with bright fog lights symbol on dash when headlights only on etc It was a bad loose connection where cluster connects. I removed cluster and cleaned contacts and reseated and it went back to normal. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Check battery voltage before doing anything as low voltage can cause all manner of weird problems. Alasdair

The seat memory unit has gone kaput in the last couple of days… more bloody expense.

I had this after the humidity level became high in the car, resulting in condensation. After looking at bad earths, faulty units etc I guessed what it was. I left all the windows open on a dry windy day and the faults dissapeared. I concluded that it was water when I found that the mix of lights and dimmed lights varied with what other control controls were activated. Moving the indicator arm or switching on or off other controls changed which icons came on the display.

For the mirror USB, I fear that they will say either 'not possible' - or will quote a ridiculously high price. Try one of the specialist retro-fitters.

Mine's a 10 year old car and I started on Tesco 99 until I switched to Costco 97 RON when my daughter got a CostCo card a few years ago (and my local Tesco often ran out of 99 for some reason). There's the occasional top up with regular if I'm in the middle of nowhere (usually Liverpool...) and I want to top up for the trip home.

Thank you!! Yes will do

If fuel is dripping from engine, stop immediately - your car will probably require recovery.

Too large a file to upload straight to here, so here's a little YT video I made yesterday of how the internals achieve the reversing action of the wiper. Same in any wiper motor I've ever dismantled.

UK E5 might be 97 ron min or 99 ron min, did the tuner really go for 97 ron? Some E5 might have up to 5% BioEthanol but it might have none. Tesco Momentum 99 can differ in parts of the UK as ESSO Super Unleaded does. Sainsbury's 97 ron Min might be 99 ron.

Ditto. I've always used Tesco Momentum 99RON in mine (supposedly better than Shell V-Power in independent tests). No shortage where I am. In fact I filled up the other day at £1.46p / litre when they had run out of Diesel completely & some of the 95RON unleaded pumps were also taped off. The 280 definitely performs better & has lower fuel consumption with 99. I think I've only used 95RON on a couple occasions in 8 years when on holiday & couldn't find any 99RON.

On some cards using a special tool - this was discussed on here a few years ago, so the posts will be really hard to find!

Yep looks to be an interesting proposition and I still like the look of the new Duster and Bigster

Yesterday, after a very entertaining match at Hereford (who won for a change). Across the road that I was about to turn onto out of the car park was a young family with a girl of about 7 years old, patiently waiting for the pedestrian light to change, I drove slowly out of the carpark the girl just turned around to her Mum, the Superb stopped dead in the middle of the road. Later on the A49 cruise control on, I kept getting messages to Take control of the wheel (or similar) this was despite me haveing both hands on the wheel at all time and looking forward out of the windscreen. Later on the M4 it became every minute or so I was getting the message if I failed to add input to the wheel despite my hands firmly holding it, a couple of seconds later I got the warning sound I moved my hands then, having the Harvard lights come on and the car braking to a stop wasn’t going to be fun. I switched it off then I’d had enough. Maybe it couldn’t see my eyes at night wearing normal clear lens glasses and as the roads have long straights I wasn’t doing much in the way of inputs. Who knows, if it carries on in the dark I will just stop using it.

Well, I lost contact through the MySkoda App to my car! The car had lost all profiles and; CarPlay although showing on the start page just went blank when selected! Tried setting up my profile but it kept returning "Unable to load user profile". Tried the factory reset in "settings" - no joy! Contacted Skoda Support and they responded on a Sunday! Their solution a full factory reset - 1) Reboot the Infotainment panel by pressing & holding the power button for approx. 15 sec until the Skoda logo appears. 2) Open the Infotainment menu in your vehicle 3) Continue to the "Settings" 4) Then click on "Factory settings" Pleas note that this will delete all stored personal settings (paired phones, favourite radio stations, user profiles, etc.) and also remove the user profile / user (ŠKODA ID) from the Infotainment. Then please enroll the vehicle with your account again. However, it took two attempts, first I input my credentials and it went to "Unable to load user profile" and Car Play did not work; second attempt it went straight to my profile and everythiong back to normal! Still have no idea why the problem came about - I did have an "over the air" software update last week, but the system kept working for the week before this problem! So, well done Skoda Support "Simply Clever" They saved me a trip to the Dealer

Yes auto is off

There are some options to use some of this new tech as with Balcony solar and devices such as Ecoflow stream so some tricks to reduce bills by optimising cheaper tariffs.

I have a similar issue. If you have an obd reader you can do a full scan for fault codes and it will tell you which flaps have issues. It may be that they are stuck or in my case they have lost their calibration. On a RHD car the actuators are mounted above the glove box. You can remove the glove box to get to them and manually move the flaps in case they are stuck. If not you may need to replace the actuators.

This is not a new issue. I had this with my Superb 2014 mkII 1.4 tsi when I first bought it nearly new in 2015. Basically that year I was on holiday driving through Europe and passed through Luxembourg and brimmed it with cheap petrol. A little while later when driving towards the Black Forest in Germany it popped up an engine management light. As the car was under the manufacturers warranty I arranged to pop into a German Skoda dealer who thoroughly checked out the car FOC. The chief engineer took me into the workshop and despite the language difference pointed to the fuel flap and said "Von clicke HALTE". Fortunately no permanent damage at that point and it's never recurred but since then I always stop at the first click when filling up on any car. I think even my old 2001 1.4 16v mpi Octavia had and EVAP canister.

5Q0513029KD rear shock absorbers are listed against build codes 0N4+1JC+1X0+K8D (and manufactured after 05.10.2015) VW Codes Decoder 0N4 independent rear suspension 1JC lowered ride height 1X0 front wheel drive K8D estate Octavia MK3 parts catalog https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/5/511/511001

One thing to mention with Smart link, is to use a "decent" usb cable between the phone and car. Personally my car does not have Smart link enabled so not experienced this myself, however I've seen a good few posts mentioning this to be a bit of a weak point. Also I must mention that "live" traffic updates with built in NAV don't work now as the Traffic Master signal used for this was turned off, theres an icon called TMC with a red line through it. It affected other makes too not just VW group cars. Think it was April 2023 when it got stopped.

@Binx1310 and @travs , good call thanks, I’ll post something more proper over the next couple of days 👍 And thanks for the best wishes 😊 New car was going to be an Enyaq…until I saw a screaming lease deal on a BMW i5 Touring, which my new boss told me to go and try, and if I liked it he’d order one! So, on the way is a gangster spec i5 Touring M Sport in black, with black leather and we’re getting the rear windows dark tinted - completely opposite vibe to the Superb 😅 I am going to miss the Superb, as it’s been comfy and reliable…and I’ve sunk a few quid into it in a short space of time, so hopefully someone who appreciates that will buy it!

Haha, cheers buddy! It was an opportunity that will really develop over the coming years, and couldn’t turn it down 😊 Yep, happy to blame someone else for taking the car away from my mum getting behind the wheel 😅

Might it be brake fluid rather than engine oil?

Hi all, as I said I was away for a week and the sd card - https://www.speedcams.co.uk/shop/skoda-map-sd-card/genuine-5l0-skoda-map-sd-card-32gb-full-europe I bought arrived during that time. I installed it today and am pleased to say the satnav is now working properly. Thanks for all the useful advice. The seller operates a map update service (using the buyers sd card) but I think anyone can download these maps from the Skoda update portal and simply copy them over the previous map on the sd card. The same seller also offers spped cam warnings (presumably as poi's). Does anyone know how to get speed cam warnings without paying?

My concern is that it is a design flaw having the water come through the centre of it and even a genuine part will suffer the same.

I clear mine out with a dress-making pin nicked from the memsahib's sewing box. It seems to clog both the jets and the feedpipe inside, usually with rust particles.

If a chip is to the metal where it would rust then you want a dab of Rust Inhibitor / converter on a coc-ktail stick applied a day before applying any paint.

Thanks for you help with this, I've collected my 2025 Sportline today 😄 (Rubbish photo as its raining!)

Hey folks, I am returning to Skoda after a hiatus of some 4 years. I started out back in 2012 with an Octavia which I liked but as a 1.6l petrol was a bit underpowered. Made my way to a Yeti in 2016 and absolutely loved that car. It was the Outdoor 2L TDI and was hands down the best car I ever owned. I still regret selling it... And the reason I sold it was to buy a VW camper van - a California - which we enjoyed (despite it being quite a 'fussy' vehicle when it came to the infotainment etc. Family circumstances forced that sale and I tried a BMW 330i for a year before switching to a Mini Clubman JCW. Both he BMW and Clubman were good but lacked something soul wise and the state of the UK roads has made the decision for me to trade in and purchase a pre-loved Scout which I am picking up next week. Very happy to be returning to Skoda! Look forward to getting Scout related questions answered and hopefully answering some myself!

Can’t help, I’m afraid, but I was thinking that I might add an auxiliary cable to mine and hide it inside the wheelarch. Behind the liner, maybe. I have done that on another car.

Exactly. Its the best place on earth, but about as convenient as Point Nemo sometimes.

The satnav update policy of manufacturers is nothing less than ridiculous. Cars last at least 15 years, and providing these updates is technically no problem at all. This is where the EU should step in, by simply demanding updates for such periods (instead of making al these stupid Advanced Driver Assistance Systems mandatory, which only made cars more expensive, and most small cars EOL).

This is normal behaviour, if you use a paddle the gearbox responds and after awhile goes back to the automatic setting, it’s for knocking down a gear to pass someone for example. If you use sport mode overall or select sport for the gearbox with the toggle then using a paddle will switch to manual and stay there until you toggle back out of it or hold the up paddle in which does the same thing (cycles from manual to sport to drive)

Recently acquired (as in 4 days ago) 2014 Elegance diesel. 280,000 km on the clock. Black Magic with black interior. Purchased as a cheap runabout so good family wagon doesn’t get hammered at work.

Here's a link to a YouTube video to remove.

We have been experiencing problems with the Colombus for around 6 months now on our 2014 Superb L&K and have tried to keep up with appropriate threads on Briskoda. First it started by TV programmes not functioning/detected then it started to switch off - be it in Nav or Radio mode and switching on again a few seconds or even minutes later. Now it wont pair or match with a mobile telephone. After a number of attempts I managed to do a factory Reset and although this restored most functionality (but not phone) for a while, the problems continue. Irritatingly, a few months ago I updated the nav database but I don't think that this is anything other than a coincidence, the problems pre-dated this. To pre-empt the next suggestion, how do I remove the unit without damaging the fascia so I can photograph the unit. I have had no messages about software or firmware. In advance, thank you to the 'Brains Trust'

Just noticed a small amount of petrol pooled on the bottom panel underneath the engine block. I wonder if that makes flooding more likely or another issue… Going to try this clearing mode soon by pumping the accelerator but slightly terrified about causing more damage??