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Hi all sorry for not posting outcome. Pump housing appeared to have a leak and had code on heater valve also.. Replaced thermostat housing and pump, also electric pump and heater valve.. All appears fine now and no further issues.. Pain in the arse but a days labour with some help and $1000 AUD later, worked out cheaper than just what the skoda dealer alone wanted to charge on parts - third of the cost....

You and me both The Fiesta brings up a completely different set of emotions, that the McLaren never will. Even Mrs Gaz was beaming while we were chatting with the owner (she had a 1980 1.1 and a 1981 1.3 back in the mid '80's). G

Saw this little gem from 1980 this afternoon: Spoke to the owner - it's his seventh Fiesta 👍 Tip top condition 😎 Then I saw this: I tried to get closer, but a McLaren can seemingly outrun my 8mph mobility scooter - who knew 🤷‍♂️ Gaz

Hello all, Newbie here looking for help with my 2025 facelifted Enyaq 85X Sportline. Will post in relevant section. Cheers, PM249

Palmer Motorsport McLaren Artura Apparently they take the hybriddiddy bit out first

Answering your doubts and questions: Is 565 035 020 A a suitable retrofit into a Superb MK3 that originally had 5Q0 035 840 B? => Yes, it is Which connector is usually different between these two setups? => LVDS HSD video connector is pink in Bolero and grey in Columbus. Do I need an adapter cable, repinning, or only a small modification to the connector keying? => Small modification is enough as they are electrically the same, just take the sharp knife and cut out from the pink plug an excessive platic trim that prevents it from being plugged into grey socket. After fitting the hardware, what exactly is needed next: Component Protection removal => yes, online or patching coding/adaptations in 5F => yes, usually done by uploading raw data adaptation channel maps with VCDS and then modifying channels that were not updated automatically FEC/SWaP activation for navigation / voice / SmartLink => yes, usually done by patching and loading new FEC container Can any of this be done with ODIS + VCX SE, or is dealer online access still required for some parts? => All can be done by patching and ODIS / VCP / VCDS / VC Tool / OBD Eleven

The same warranty applies to both fully electric cars & hybrid car batteries:

From the Skoda page:

Guys, The above unit (if the picture provided by @shadyk2 is indeed from his car) is the SWING MEN3 "low infotainment" system. Bolero + Built-in Navigation = Columbus = MIB3 Hight infotainment system. The file that I shared above is for MEN3 unit. As far as I know the upgrade procedure is the same for both system types. If the unit doesn't recognise the USB stick please follow the steps to debug: Recommendation is to use high quality brands(e.g Sandisk, Kignston ...) Type-C is better to eliminate bad adapters extFAT format Large capacity because the files for MIB3 are ~10G If the unit fail to load the files, try with another USB stick. Hopefully this quick guide will help you. Good luck

Thank you very much pab567.. I'm very happy to hear back that can be used as retrofit. I will work on it to fix hardware part to be installed and fix the screen connection carefully with the some Stanley knife. I will be very pleased if you can find some time and help me with the software side if that will be possible? Thank you

Deadly serious .....I'd rather have the Fiesta. 👍

Mine has no alarm, from factory. It's never gone wrong. 😁

The braking faults 0668 could be caused by a low power connection to ABS or bad earth but you seem to have a fair range of faults mainly electrical What is the condition and age of battery. Might be worth checking voltage with engine off. A low battery can cause all manner of problems. Also check the fuses in engine bay near battery for corrosion or looseness as well as earth points etc. Alasdair

That's odd I thought they all had anti theft alarm unless someone has removed it. I had a quick google and 2001 I think uses Immo2 which is simpler. 2003 I think uses Immo3 which is more complicated. At this point I am now lost as its above my learning curve. I would assume by swapping all relevant modules etc it would work. It must be an imobiliser problem or incompatabilty somewhere. Alasdair

I carried out this job on a 2012 Fabia 1.2 TSi 1. With the vehicle on level ground, chock a rear wheel. 2. Loosen the front wheel bolts slightly (both wheels, maybe 1/16th of a turn). 3. Raise the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. 4. Remove both front wheels. 5. Spray penetrating oil on the ends of the bolts that hold the ARB clamp to the sub-frame (both sides). The captive nuts on the Fabia face the rear of the vehicle, so this is where you need to look for the ends of the bolts. 6. After leaving the penetrating oil for 10mins, use a suitable ratchet to undo both bolts. At this stage, only unscrew them to leave 5mm of bolt showing beyond the nut. On the driver's side, you will need to raise the lower suspension arm by placing a jack under the lower ball-joint to gain access to the bottom bolt.Using a 13mm ratchet spanner may negate the need to do this, though access is tight. Repeat this process on the passenger side. 7. Undo the upper nut holding Anti-Roll Bar link to the suspension strut bracket and remove the link from the bracket. This releases tension on the Anti-Roll Bar. Repeat this process on the passenger side. 8. Now fully remove both bolts on the driver's side. Plenty of rust came out when I removed the lower bolt. 9. Lever the clamp off the rubber bush with a suitable tool. I used a fat cold chisel. 10. Remove the split rubber bush from the bar. 11. Clean the bar where the new bush will fit. I used GT85 wiped off with an old rag or paper towel. 12. Before fitting to the car, I sprayed the new bush with silicone lubricant on the bracket contact side and pushed the bracket on and off a few times. 13. Open the bush where it splits and fit it onto the bar. 14. Fit the bracket onto the bush. This is the difficult bit as it's a tight fit. You'll need to push hard or use a lever against track rod whilst being careful not to damage it's rubber gaiter. You can use the steering wheel to move the steering gear to help. 15. Insert new bolts into the sub-frame. I used; Hexagon Collar Bolt, 68mm (60mm under head),M8 x1.25, Tensile Strength 8.8, 13mm head, as specified in the unobtainable at the time Febi kit 37660. 16. Push the clamp hard towards the sub-frame and align the captive nuts with the bolts. Start the bolts off by hand before continuing with a ratchet but don't fully tighten; as I found to my cost, this will hinder lining up the bolts on the other side. 17. Repeat steps 8 to 16 on the passenger side. 18. Re-fit the ARB links to the strut bracket and hand-tighten the nuts. 19. Tighten the ARB bracket bolts (both sides) then finish tightening with a Torque wrench to 20NM + 1/4 turn (or 90 degrees). 20. Torque the upper ARB link nut to 40NM. Strictly speaking this should be done after lowering the car to the ground but you will need to use a Universal Joint on the end of a long bar to access the nut. Alternatively, use a jack under the lower ball-joint to load up the suspension. 21. Lower the car to the ground and remove the chocks from the rear. 22. Test drive and enjoy the silence.

Obviously, replace the road wheels before lowering to the ground and torque to 120nm but I can't edit the post now. Moderator? Replace the road wheels and bolts before lowering to the ground and torque to 120nm. 21 = 22 22 =23

Thanks for your advice Breezy_Pete, yes I'd understood that polarity reverse regarding front and rear washers. Best wishes!

You may have noticed I went a bit quiet after @rum4mo 's above post. That's because that same day I'd done the 'rock the steering wheel' test before reading the post and found very little free play before I could see the tyres moving but have now solved the knocking; I'll update the Noisy suspension thread.

Not discounting a Superb. In fact looking through them prices often lower than equivalent Octavia. I agree that the RRP canbecome inflated once desired extras are added on. Eveb so I would have though electric seats, windscreen etc would and should come fitted to most cars these days, they are nopt rocket science. And not too keen if what Evolution13 is saying is true that battery warranty goes out the window with owner number 2.

Changed rear discs and pads for brembo units today to try and cure the rumble under heavy braking that’s particularly bad using the ACC. All went pretty straightforward thanks to @Bap33 brilliant guide over on the kodiaq guides section. No major dramas. A couple of tense moments with nearly rounding out one of the Torx that holds one disc on and a disc that refused to come off and needed some percussive persuasion. Pleased to say that all back together with no issue and from the short gentle test drive seems to have cured the rumble. Carscanner worked perfectly to apply, remove and calibrate service mode on the EPB.

This article compares the 130 with a VW Polo GTi https://www.carwow.co.uk/editorial/choosing-a-car/car-comparisons-side-by-side/skoda-fabia-130-vs-volkswagen-polo-gti-jamie-edkins-twin-test-review#gref Neither vehicle has the 'track day' credibility of (say) a Hyundai i20N, but if someone wants a 130 (rather than a Monte Carlo) why should they be dissuaded from doing that? (I could afford a new Skoda Octavia VRS, or even a new Audi RS3, but my Fabia Mk4 SE L DSG was cheap enough in 2024 and is large enough and quick enough for me now that my future driving will probably be confined to the UK.)

Think they worked with both. Some systems can-bus and rest K line. The symptoms are definitly imobilser linked. Wonder if the newer uses more Can-bus or perhaps something else that requires coding to ECU. Not sure but maybe BCM although don.t think its imobilser linked but may be linked to cluster. Alasdair

More nice car with a not so nice backdrop: At my local shopping centre just now. Don't know that it's a real Harlequin, but it made me smile all the same 😁 Gaz

That's actually a good point, painfully obvious lol, I will thanks

Hi Guys, thanks for the posts. I just tried putting my VIN number in again and it appears to be working now. I think maybe their server must have been down on Monday. Now it is looking more how i remember where it shows the various options for which maps i would like. Thanks, Mike.

Hi nta16, thank you for the information. Not sure if I'm able to send pm to the members! I join this platform recently and made an yearly subscription but still not able to PM.

Hello & Good morning to you all, As per the header, I am a new member on this forum having viewed various topics, on various models. I am currently on my 10th Skoda, a face lifted 2025 Skida Enyaq 85x Sportline. Below is a list of our previous owned Skoda vehicles: 3 Superbs, the latter two being L&K variants. 3 Fabia’s, including VRS (Diesel), 2 Octavia’s, including the VRS and an over build of the Anniversary edition. 1 Yeti L&K Mk 1 Finally our current Enyaq 85x Sportline. Still awaiting the promised L& K model, however sadly I am very much aware that the UK is the very much poorer partner in terms of Model/Option choices, compared to our European cousins. If it helps, I am a 66yr old retired firefighter and in my earlier days have happily engaged in stripping and restoring my vehicles, including engines, gearboxes etc. Happy to be a member of this forum. Warmest regards Indy

The claim: We're moving to LED because they will outlast the vehicle. The reality: Well they would if we didn't install the cheapest, lowest quality garbage we can get our hands on, to hopefully limp through the warranty period...

I didn't do it when I changed my battery and there were no problems. I just opened the bonnet, turned off the ignition and waited a bit of time until all the noises stopped from the engine bay. No settings were lost and everything worked fine on the next start without doing anything to the car.

hey, it says mib3 on the file title, are u sure it will work for the men3 system?

I just use a charged AGM jump pack and lead that plugs into the OBD2 port, works fine for me. I used to use a Draper one that used maybe a PP6 or PP3 battery years ago and connected to the car's battery terminals with crock clips, that worked as well, but probably slightly messier than using the jump pack and a lead that plugs into the OBD2 port. Edit:- maybe sad to say, but maybe many years ago I used a Draper memory saver that just plugged into the mains, but I'm sure that I gifted that to someone!

A few new exhibits at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, including Damien Hirst (man with the Golden...... 😳)

Sorry - I should have been clearer. My engine is a 245ps DKTB. I was just jumping on the engine oil train, as I find it quite interesting/confusing. It’s quite interesting that the same engine can run on stuff ranging from 0W-20 up to 5W-40 - regardless of engine code, none of the EA888.3s or EA888.4s are significantly different from another.

Be aware that raw numbers often don't always mean that much, they can look good for sales but a higher number that doesn't last as long may not be as good as a lower number that retains for longer. A better battery will perform better for longer. Also when comparing numbers they need to be from the same system of testing to get those numbers. A typo there you mean 700A for 680A - these figures refer to the CCA (cold cranking amps) rather than amp hour (Ah) capacity of the battery. Some info if you want it, VW and nta. - SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf CarBatteryInformation.pdf CCAspecs.pdf

We had an early estate identical to that for about 13 years. Everything still worked when we sold it with over 130,000 miles on the clock. It went on to do just under 200,000 miles before it eventually went to the scrapyard in the sky

Not pretty, but not bad for 25 years old.. 84500 on the clock, and suffers quite badly from the dreaded "Red Paint Peel", but on the upshot, no rust. All the usual issues to be sorted out (drooped roof lining, driver's door lock or wiring issues, passenger front door window "glued in"... No winding mechnism for the rear drivers side door window. Head lights glass beyond cleaning up) Still, I like it. I'll be fitting a towbar soon. .

Hello, New map data available ECE 2026 - version 26.2.

Yesterday, after a very entertaining match at Hereford (who won for a change). Across the road that I was about to turn onto out of the car park was a young family with a girl of about 7 years old, patiently waiting for the pedestrian light to change, I drove slowly out of the carpark the girl just turned around to her Mum, the Superb stopped dead in the middle of the road. Later on the A49 cruise control on, I kept getting messages to Take control of the wheel (or similar) this was despite me haveing both hands on the wheel at all time and looking forward out of the windscreen. Later on the M4 it became every minute or so I was getting the message if I failed to add input to the wheel despite my hands firmly holding it, a couple of seconds later I got the warning sound I moved my hands then, having the Harvard lights come on and the car braking to a stop wasn’t going to be fun. I switched it off then I’d had enough. Maybe it couldn’t see my eyes at night wearing normal clear lens glasses and as the roads have long straights I wasn’t doing much in the way of inputs. Who knows, if it carries on in the dark I will just stop using it.

I am thinking that you should probably be trying to avoid reconditioned injectors. They are bad news IMHO. I've seen the reconditioning process being as little a quick clean - without even a modicum of testing the injection pulse and fuel delivery amount. Its very hit and miss. Try getting yourself some good Bosch injectors - set of 4 (including the special monitoring injector on cylinder no 3). Running on Super Diesel is a good thing, although I personally use standard diesel with a cetane booster and cleaner (https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html) for the injectors (cheaper and IMHO better mpg). Its a controversial option, but it works for me. Other things: make sure your fuel filter is clean and replaced every 20k miles too as this can be a source of dirt and performance related issues (getting blocked)

Below: The solution that should get any generic dash cam to work on the Superb mirror located usb C. I have got a £50 generic dash cam, but one that sells 3000 units/month on Amazon and gets 4.5 to 4.6 out of 5 – that is good enough for me. (Incidentally, the Viofo mini 2 is on offer at Amazon right now, around £115, which is great value for those who want one – I might be tempted.) Anyway, here is what you require and need to do, along with the “actual items” that I purchased. Depending on, whether your dash cam has a top or side usb port and where you position it, you may want a right angled adaptor and or cable. You need 1. A short cable with a male usb C connector at one end and a male usb A at the other. A usb A to usb C adapter. The A end must be female and the C end must be male. You connect the male A end of the cable to the female A end of the adapter. Both ends now have male usb C connections, but importantly, you “must” connect the end with the adapter to the usb port next to the mirror. If you connect it to the dash cam it will not work (boring explanation below). I have included photos of mine (above) and although the cable was listed as 20cm, it was longer. My camera has a side port to the right and a 15cm cable would have been adequate given where I have positioned it. (Please excuse the mess around the drive, we are clearing up and reorganising things.) Parts (all Amazon UK with the description) 1.Cable aceyoon USB C Charger Cable 90 Degree, Mini USB C Cable 0.2M Charging & Data Sync USB C Right Angle Short Cable Braided Type C Cable Compatible for iPhone 15 for Huawei for Galaxy for Pixel(Black) (The above was £3.38 and one end is right angled) 2.USB C to USB 3.0 Adapter 90 Degree (3 Pack), USB-A 3.0 Female to USB-C 3.1 Male Right Angle OTG Adapter Compatible with MacBook Pro, Laptop, Samsung Galaxy, Type-C Phones and More (The above £5.99 and right angled) 3.Seminer 90 Degree USB C to USB 3.1 OTG Adapter (2 Pack), Right Angled USBC Type C Male to USB Female Adapter, 10G Data Transfer for Smartphone,Tablet, Laptop (The above £5.99, I purchased first, but did not use because of the orientation of the adapter. It did work) Explanation: In very simple terms a dash cam wants a simple power supply. The one from the 12v connection is just that, a one directional power source. A usb C cable is two directional, not only for power but also for data transmission. Put simply, the camera does not recognise the usb C cable as a power source, hence it does not work. By adding the usb A adapter (sometimes loosely described as a type 3 on Amazon) you take away the two directional element of the cable and dumb down the data component. If Skoda had thought things through and really been “clever” they would have used a usb A rather than a usb C. Still, a simple solution once you know about it. I hope this helps others like me.