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Fixed schedule is annual, even if fewer than 10K miles covered Flexible schedule is for vehicles that cover relatively high milage in a year and is either two years or a certain mileage. Longer runs are much better for the engine, where most of the miles are while the engine (and oil) is fully warmed up. Most of the wear and oil contamination occurs while the engine is not fully up to temperature.

A couple from this evening on the causeway at Holy Island.

I've decided to invest in a proper wall charger. The three pin was ok with the Octavia iv I px'd for the Superb (had a timer and a slow charging battery small enough to charge on off peak). Anyway, what a car! A bigger step up from the Octavia than I expected.

No need to be worried, the Flexible / Variable Oil Service regime is 24 months 18,000-20,000 miles or sooner. Only if on fixed is it 9,400 miles / 372 miles or sooner.

Another preventative measure tackled over the weekend - replacing the failure prone plastic coolant vent union adaptor. The factory plastic adaptor, given it's location right next to the hot turbo, is prone to crack and failure eventually, resulting in coolant leaks or loss. After 8 yrs, turns out the plastic adaptor on Gandalf was still in good condition, including the O-ring. Replacement part is made of aluminium. I got an 034 Motorsport version, but there r plenty of other options. Whilst I was at it, I also changed the rubber hose pipe that attaches to it. Changing it is easier by removing the coilpack harness out of the way so u can easily access the vent union adaptor. That said, it is still a very tight spot being in the "valley"!! Also, have a 1L bottle of coolant ready as u'll loose a lot of coolant in the process - hence u need to top up. In my case, G12Evo (G12E050A2) Part Numbers:- Vent Coolant Union Adaptor - 034-102-Z048. Replaces factory part number 06K 121 143 Coolant Union Adaptor Hose - 06K121051M Spring Clamps - N90686701 Replacement bits.... Comparison.... Factory one removed.... Aluminium replacement in place....

Hey there, Just ordered my new Fabia to replace my 3 year old and I notice that the Spec Sheet says 'Service Interval Prolongation'. Can anyone explain what this is and will I need it on an average annual mileage of 5000. Thanks.

Hi folks, Recently picked up a 2025 Enyaq 85x, 1st ŠKODA but I’ve had a number of Audi’s over the years. (Still got an Allroad for my paddling trips). Still getting to grips with a lot of it!

Right it's this one I'm thinking of... corrected another Google with keywords in it: & here... where it concludes https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532756-mib3-map-updates-202502-06/page/3/#findComment-5970567

That would be on a LHD car, the default for workshop instructions.

Ah, I stand (sit) corrected. Mine's a TSi so I've concentrated on that. Cheers for further clarification, all good information longer term.

PS @prosist If the cars service Indicator was not telling you Oil Service or Inspection service as the car did towards 9,400 miles or getting towards 372 days since last serviced or service indicator reset then you are not set for a Fixed Regime. What does the Service indicator show now until Oil Service due? Do not use 5w 40 FS oil to service your TDI.

^^^^ Not 2 Grades of oil for fixed or Variable. Because it is a TDI,......... So long life is used. Fixed or Variable. VW 504 00 / 507 00. 5w 30 FS III. A TSI might use VW502 00 so 5w 40 FS for Fixed & VW 504 00 / 507 00 for Variable.

Go for AGM, but you will need to tell the car that it is an AGM and not EFB with VCDS It is what I did on mine

I'm tired of dealing with this issue anymore. I'll have the car for a little over a year, so I don't want to deal with it any longer.

Over the weekend I replaced the plastic coolant vent union adaptor with a metal version. Preventative measure really as these things r known to fail cause it is located right next to the hot turbo. More info about it here. Comparison.... Fitted....

OK, so I have tried with 23.12 (which is 2 versions back from 24.8 which I am currently on) on the USB stick - no go. Nothing have changed despite driving for more than 1 hour in total. I decided to move in a bit different way. I saw indeed in the previous year's discussion that one of the guys installed 24.12 (found on Seat website), which was successful. Now we're driving with the stick equipped with 24.12 maps, during the upcoming long weekend we will be driving for more than 2 hours (there and back will sum up to more than 4). Let's see if this helps, if not - I'll dig deeper again. In case there are any other ideas, please let me know, as I am more and more annoyed by this issue... It should not work like this. Luckily I'm an IT guy, so I understand roughly how it works and what can go wrong.

Good call! I must have disabled the auto locking while I was trying to find my way around. I'll clear that code and see how it goes when we go out next. Just leaves the heater flap.

Yes and that is the problem, same for all the other driver "aids" and "assists" on the vehicles now. I know humans are very far from infallible and these systems may sometimes help but I do wonder about more modern drivers that fully rely on them and those that believe computers without question, mental passengers behind the driver controls. As I put I've known some of these systems for decades and have seen improvements but they now seem in a period of a sort of regress in reliability.

There is one local spot where my Kamiq fails to pick up a change in limit. That is where there is a sharpish left turn on to the motorway slip (leaving the 40mph limit) where the national limit sign is set back and the excess speed warning beeps start as I accelerate down the slip road. Then further down the slip road, the GPS realises where I am and the 70mph limit appears and all goes quiet again! The camera and GPS systems are not infallible and can get confused by badly placed signage, by signage on adjacent parallel roads etc. The GPS based info that is inbuilt in the Satnav can display the wrong data if limits have been changed limits if the signage is not visible to the camera which will override the GPS data.

Make sure the option to lock the doors is still enabled

Agree with this. The engine was never for designed for that level of performance.

Thank You! Just tried it and it is working 😁

Plus, you won't really see much from a 1.0 anyway. You'll need to be careful too, as both the MQ200 and DQ200 won't like the extra torque.

I've moved this to the Insurance and Legal issues for larger community engagement @BionicJohn as it's not strictly a model issue. One of our insurance partner companies will also have a better chance of seeing it and may offer advice. Link to here left in the Octavia forum.

Yep another one that reverses out and then looks. Had one in my carpark that reversed about 30 feet and into the side of my volvo940. She jumped out and said oops I didn't look. My volvo was the only other car in carpark which is big enough to get an artic turned plus I wasn't even in the car. I saw it move from my house window. She did say she would pay cash to have it repaired if it was less than £300. Local body shop said that would just about cover the paint!! Took a month to get repaired after I refused point blank to have it written off or accept a cash adjustment and then 6 months of insurance wrangle as I was not at fault and told my insurance to claim off her as I wasnt even in the car. I had just spent £750 for MOT. Definitely merc fault on this one. Hope its just cosmetic. Alasdair

Unfortunately as with most problems with modern cars, think the first action here is to get a full scan of all controllers with VCDS or similar to identify any faults associated with the door. That will hopefully then allow you to zero in on suspect component(s) to investigate

It makes me think of this 'joke': Out of 10 people, 9 love chocolate. The 10th one lies... 😁

@ducu We ordered 2 cars in the beginning of April, 2025, arrived at the dealership 5 months later. The VIN was only available, once the car was already existed and assembled, waiting for the transport. Both cars was full-spec L&K and Sportline.

Yup. I used to use ACC on the same route because I was lazy, getting low 600’s, but just using human powers of observation improved things. The car has very little engine braking so I can let off quite early for speed limit changes and approaching slower vehicles in front. We get a lot of tractors round here. Also letting off to coast down hills and only applying throttle when needed to maintain speed help massively. In the current fuel price hike I’ve also started driving on dual carriageways and the motorway at 65mph. It seems to make little difference to journey times. We’re doing a 400 mile trip shortly and I worked out that it will only add 30mins so I call that a win. BTW, has anyone else noticed that quite a lot of other drivers seem to be doing the same?

I think you exaggerate a bit, when you say it is a death trap... First of all, Lane assist is mandatory....and the fact that you don t find helpful, doesn't mean that it is not for others... Next, the speed warning is not that loud at all, except of being mandatory too. If it is not connected to your sound system, then you barely can hear it... Regarding virtual pedal now, it is true that it has happened to me a couple of times...but there is a reason...like you said you were organizing stuff in the boot..at this moment feet, are exactly facing the virtual pedal sensor, and their motion is read as a command to close...it is a matter of getting used to it and treat it accordingly.... Finally, regarding AEB, it is true that I have heard so from a couple of drivers, but personally, it has been engaged a couple of times, that really needed to... Other than that, I find it to be one of the best cars I ve ever had, which of course isn't quite a reliable criterion, but among other drivers I know, it is far one of the best in its class...

So you have the 204 2.0 tsi...and yes, the 265, is the rs...anyway, 12 l around city stands between normal and bottom high...but I guess, you should expect something like that, from an almost 2 ton car...besides, after my small ownership, and paying attention to other's comments, this is not the best suited city car...in city center and around , my diesel writes around 8-8.5...so, 10+should be considered as expected...the vrs, gets around 12-13 l in city, and around 10 on motorway, if not pushed hard...otherwise, you can easily get around 14-15 l/100kmh...the car is big enough to expect something less...maybe the hybrids, but in that case, they are non awd...that s why most recommend diesel as the most suitable powertrain for this car...for me there was no alternative to diesel, as it is the only awd imported to Greece...

Stage 2 really needs you to start upgrading hardware and using Super Unleaded.

Not bad! I think I got 54mpg driving up through Wales going steady at national speed limit speeds, which I was very happy with. I think the car does well, especially if it's not regenerating the DPF. I've read you can do better if you don't use adaptive cruise as the car tends to use brakes to manage speed where as a sensible human just lets off and coasts to saves energy!

Go for an old fashioned internal combustion engine. You wont regret it.

pardon my french, Bought my first Skoda, yet bieng half Czech its clearly been too long a wait! Since I have a fully worked large turbo Golf R '16 that isnt so family friendly, I found the cheapest Skoda Superb 206kw in the country and bought it sight unseen. Black on black sedan Plate = "SCHKUD" I knew it wouldnt stay stock for long. Im ex motorsport engineer so always mucking with the cars. But for the SCHKUD it wasnt an open checkbook do everything possible, just make it much faster and make it enjoyable to drive. Love the active cruise and Canton sounds. Like a nightclub on wheels. Car felt big and sloppy to drive despite the DCC. Whiteline lowering springs, Whiteline swaybars, billet end links, Whiteline front anti-lift & bump steer correction bushes have helped no end! Stock control arm bushes had started to rip. Got a custom stage 2 tune from an Audi engineer in Germany using Alientech hardware for the upload. Custom DSG tune. 4" pie cut down pipe and full exhaust to stock OEM rear box. Dropped effective diff ratio from 3.44 OEM to 3.562 by changing to 235/35/19 Hankook RS232 semi slicks. Noticeable gain in aceleration, now just dipping into the 3's, circa flat 4 0-60mph. Serviced everything, diff oils, DSG, haldex, etc. Changing dogbone puck helped no end. Now preparing for the power part, Garrett G25-660, Autotech HPFP, RS3 LPFP and RS3 EKP and 1050cc MPI injectors and wagner tube fin larger intercooler inc. a meth spray kit sitting on the dining table. Will make use of a local dyno for the tuning for the stage 3. Will run a fairly conservative tune to soften the mid range to help the engine, see how long the DQ250 lasts. I have a DQ351 7spd in the garage, but isnt the first choice if I can get hold of a DQ500

Hi all. I’m shortly picking up a new 280 4x4 estate and (first world problem) I don’t like the standard ‘Propus Aero’ 18 inch wheels. So I’m sourcing some 19 inch ‘Canopus’ wheels for it. I have to buy tyres and wondered what the OE spec 19s come with - I think they’re Bridgestone S001. Does anyone have experience of these as they’re similar money to Michelin PS4, which I have on a BMW E39 and quite like. I guess a speed rating of W is fine if these cars are limited to 155mph. Not planning on venturing to an autobahn any time soon… Apologies if I’m posting in the wrong sub-forum.

Another sleeper 😃, possibly a 'supercar-killer' (not all of them, but an interesting part 😄). I remember another Superb Mk3 owner who also went to stage 3 and reached 560HP : While looking for this video, I alos found this one up to 600Hp:

Running 98RON and meth spray Ill be estimating about 350 kw's at all four wheels For the English BHP that'll be 560bhp

Why am I doing this to a Superb? Because I love dragging off Teslas. Since they are getting really quick, time to make the SCHKUD faster. That and keeping up with RS4's is pretty satisfying too

If you DIY, have you any official Skoda records for your car? It's usually mentioned there. If you're in the habit of annual changes, which does feel like the better option to me, then you're effectively on Fixed, but as @Warrior193 said above it's xx time orr yy miles, whichever comes sooner. Your description sounds like you're most likely ok. Different grades of oil for the two schedules, but using the longer life (Variable) one and changing more frequently just costs you marginally more.