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found and solved the problem. if interested, have a look there: https://youtube.com/shorts/CquVnU0G8og?feature=share, I was shocked...but I fixed it easily.

And all this because I was posted about the economy of my particular model. 😂😂😂

Bosch Aerotwin

Hi guys, new here so saying hello. Skodas have changed so much, from the awful, ugly, clunky tanks of the 1970s (the last time I drove a Skoda till last year) to the current luxurious and well equipped range I see on the road Last July I bought a Superb SE 2.0 TDi Estate (2017) as my previous Peugeot 308 was dying and I wanted something with a higher towing capacity as I wanted to replace my little caravan with a bigger model. That dream hasn't come true yet due to redundancy and health problems but I live in hope Overall I really like the Superb, though I'm surprised at the high cost or parts compared to my previous cars, and I have a few odd issues I would like to get sorted. I'm looking forward to learning from you all and hopefully sorting my car out at the same time!!

Definitley a job for the Police. I would inform them of what is going on ASAP if you havent already and see if you can set up some cctv to catch whoever is doing it in the act. An autolocksmith will be able to recode keys etc but as said if the person has had one cut/cloned they can access manually. You could see if any local scrapyards can supply you with locks and key so you can change them. Still going to cost you which isn't fair. Might be worth contacting your insurance as one of my policies a few years back covered replacement keys/locks if they were stolen/lost. Alasdair

Thank you all, have just done oil change and all filters as well (oil, air, fuel, pollen) Have also done the mini flushes, very nice tip, thank you @nta16 Now one thing I don't get is after resetting the service, it shows next due in 4700 / 365 days I connected to the obd2 and could change the"quality of oil" from bad to good, but then the interval jumps to 18000 Any idea how to set it to 9400??

Ok, this is now resolved - the hub had to be changed because the car is still under warranty and future claims for related part might not be valid otherwise. I had to pay for the hub, of course 🫠 I would think about the wheel every time I drive on the highway if the dealer used one of those tread repair kits anyway. I've talked with few colleagues what happened, and some of them said that it's not very easy to do a hub thread damage with Lidl's impact wrench which I've used. It was even set to mid-power not to max. And having in mind I had to torque all the bolts with a torque wrench after that. Anyway I've learned my lesson. I'll be more careful next time. I won't use the impact wrench for tightening the bolts, but only for loosening them. And I'll also use a positioning pin as well. Cheer guys!

I eventually had my battery in my 1.4Tsi replaced before the 3 year warranty expired. Diagnostic checks were done several times,to no avail , but the stop start didn't work even after a 300mile run. The car is now 10 years old and SS still works after a decent run 30 miles plus.

All back to standard spec again, my lovely alloys taken off and original wheels back on, sub removed, spare wheel removed, rear window blind removed and all my junk taken out, there was an awful lot of that. She being PX'ed next week, a new Skoda will be incoming. It's not a Superb 280 so I guess I will be introducing myself to another section? This one should be up for sale in Newbury, Skoda for way more than they gave me no doubt, but I got a good "overall" deal so not complaining. The bronze JR alloys will not fit the new car, that is a blow, but not a deal breaker. So if anyone is looking for a nice Dec2023 280, this is it, not a mark on her, and only 2500 miles (low due to illness) Sort of saying goodbye to this thread but I'll keep on eye on it still, I'm sure?

Evening folks, Was doing an oil change in my wife’s 1.2tsi earlier (along with the breather valve replacement), all going well until I started the engine which sounded really rough at the top end. Took it round the block, still noisey. Bit of searching on here and found a few threads on filter o-ring being left in. Filter off, found the o-ring, all good. Engine still sounded rattly but a bit quieter…drove home and when I came off the motorway the oil pressure light came on. Pulled over, checked everything and all good. Decided to head to my local garage and just leave it there till tomorrow. Any thoughts on this? Engine sounded fairly normal by the time I got there but the oil pressure light came on twice again (stopped both times to check everything). Have I lunched the engine?

2.0 SEL DSG Driving slightly more gently but still making progress, and my highest range so far, mind you it cost £100!! to refill it against the normal £75. Not a lot we can do about that though, eh?

evening all i am new to this world but not skoda my first was a new 2001 octavia 1.9tdl elegance estate had that one 14 years then a 2011 superb 2.0tdi 170 estate brilliant car till covid then had all sorts of problems replaced with a 2019 1.5 petrol octavia sel estate which is being replaced this autumn with a new octavia sportline estate cant wait just hope its as good as all the rest .

Bit damp this evening............

The implications are a smaller bill

Hi guys, I’m owner of Octavia 2014 looking to get some information and join this group.

Yeah 5W 30. Aye, wish I’d know about the oil filter issue. Bought through Opie oils, have used them loads over the years with no issues. Just worried I’ve wrecked the engine. It did sound pretty much normal after being on the motorway but the oil pressure light came on a few times.

What year is your 1.2 TSI? Look at pinned thread at top of the Fabia mk2 on the Oil Filters and wrong sizes.

Not sure but in the side compartments on my estate I have a couple of hiviz vests, can of tyre seal and a length of pipe that fits onto stupidly short wheel wrench to make it easier to remove nuts plus a length of decent tow rope, a pack of cable ties and a couple of rolls of insulating tape,12v air pump and a decent torch. A fire extinguisher is next on list plus I have to replace my first aid kit as its well out of date. On my old octavia there was a multi cd changer unit in the left hand one. Reckon put whatever you think will be useful. I reccomend the hi-viz, cable ties and insulating tape. Alasdair

Ok, I've got it. I've missed it because it was called "service" and I was looking for "oil" Set it back to "bad oil / fixed" and increased the mileage for next service Now it shows 9400 / 365 I'm using android "Car Scanner" and Veepeak OBD2 Scanner, in case this helps anyone in the future

Yes, it's the only way to read them no matter if it's amateurish like OBD 11 or Professional like a VAG-COM scan tool in a repair shop. You also need an emissions check from a repair shop,will help you pass the MoT test.

All sorted. Raided my old Fiat van and cut out a section of vac hose. Alasdair

I did not replace the Canton sub, I added an additional larger Pioneer one, the Canton one stayed where it was and still functioned normally

The team at VASSTECH Knaresborough have been exceptional to deal with, I've used them for 10 years without issue.

User manual states 140NM. Doesn’t differentiate wheel type or size.

I assume you referring to these satin bronze beauties? I guess I'll have to shift them on the Bay, they will probably look too small on an Elroq, it will require 55 profiles on the front and the Elroq has wider 9" rears too making an 8" rim a bit small for 255's, all a bit of a shame as I love the look of these JR's, they never look dirty too. Elroq VRS incoming.

Yeah, I have only two options, good / flexible 18700 and bad / fixed 47 00

It sounds like you’ve got a problem with safety systems in general, rather than ACC in particular. They aren’t perfect, but I believe the roads are safer with them. I don’t like lane assist because my car isn’t smart enough. It’s not a Tesla, and I don’t like how it pulls me over a line when the road merges into one lane, for example. I also wouldn’t dream of using it on a country road, for example. That’s why I bought my 2020 Mk3.5. I can have all the safety things I want, but I can also turn them all off and they stay off. The only thing I’ve disabled is TSR. It was always wrong, and as it worked in conjunction with ACC, it was an absolute menace. I wasn’t suggesting cars have feelings - I was suggesting that different models, and different types of cars, are programmed slightly differently. It makes sense that a performanceish car like the vRS would react different to hard braking than a 1.0 Ibiza. The reason none of this is regulated by law (beyond the implementation of it) is the same reason US headlights are limited by lumen output, and our headlights are limited by wattage. Useless!

I first used these VW Group plastic "wheel hangers" back in 2000 as my May 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had a rear puncture in early life. VW supplied these plastic dowels initially to cars that didn't have locating/retaining front disc screws - so replacing a front wheel could end up getting annoying if you couldn't keep the hub wheel fixing points aligned with the disc holes - AND the wheel holes. Soon after that I bought the aluminium alloy version that VAG supply into their bigger/biggest SUVs, and they were cheap as chips from the Audi or VW main dealership. I've made sure that all of my family's VAG cars have one of these plastic dowels in the tool kit and all bought from VW Group dealerships as the price ebay sellers ask for them is nuts nowadays. Edit:- someone quoted 140Nm for the wheel torque, especially for 19" wheels, I've never spotted that before, I still use 120Nm on all our VAG cars including ones with 19" wheels.

@davegr don't give up on the forum, if you find any particular members attitude 'difficult' or objectional, just put an ignore flag on them.

That is a shame. I would have thought "four out of five good threads is probably plenty" 😁

@davegr I'm with you.

Awesome, thank you bro! Now I got it straight!

Sorry to hear of your problem. Have you reported this to the Police? Yes, a lot of vehicle key fobs can be copied with appropriate hardware. Probably your best option would be an auto locksmith. Deleting the offending key might work - but if your key has actually been copied (or cloned) doing this will probably delete your key also. Even if the offending key was deleted, the vehicle can still be unlocked by using the physical emergency key cylinder.

You would get away with changing one but I personally would do both. It could be the rubber but also perhaps the bearing is failing. I always do anything suspension/steering in pairs but in the past have had to change one side and do the other later due to needing car all the time. Last ones I did on a mk2 octavia the small bolts that secure top mount to turret wouldnt come out as the encapsulated nuts were just turning. I managed to get a few extension bars from strut side to hold them while undoing bolts. Ended up replacing front shocks and new springs while I was at it as one was starting to go and springs looked pretty rusty. Used KYB parts and have had no problems for a few years now. From memory you are supposed to renew bolt that holds strut to steering knuckle. The top mounts are marked on the originals with arrows and have a specific direction for fitting. Not my favourite job but fairly straight forward as long as everything comes off. The ARB bushes look worn but if solid on bar cant see them being the culprit. Alasdair

Yup, the arb bushes come in 2 halves, so easy enough to replace as long as the clamp bolts aren’t seized solid. Febi do a pretty decent replacement

First experience of using a Sat Nav 'shortest route' found me driving through a Greater Manchester Bus Station, but it makes you wonder how we managed, and did it easily, to get anywhere using a Road Map and sign posts back in the 60's, maybe traffic was lighter and we took our time, enjoying the journey

The systems are meant to help / assist you, not replace you, this is why you are responsible. You need to constantly pay attention, take all the actions and look everywhere, not only to keep your hands on the wheel. The fact that it surprised you means you were disconnected, probably chatting and not focusing on what the car is doing.

I used some Jif, or Cif as they now call it. I also used it on the rubbers around the rear side windows (estate). Worked a treat.

My "stand alone" TomTom seems to get worse after each map update - maybe there is method to their madness, it used to be very trustworthy, now my wife tends to keep the 2009 AA atlas open, and yes, it needs replacing but its age does not stop it being used to drive round TomTom's routing - I've used "ECO", "SHORTEST" and "QUICKEST" and still get duff routing, okay road traffic incidents will cause it to re-route away from the obvious route, but mad routing just doesn't seem right. Used it last week going to and coming home from Yorkshire, yes a few "minor" diversions but really, what a pain - from something that used to be completely trustworthy.

AGM is better than EFB (or EFB+ as a lot of VW's use) but you will pay for it. I wouldn't bother sticking it one in a 1.5 - they're generally only needed for beefy engines, or hybrids.

Go for AGM, but you will need to tell the car that it is an AGM and not EFB with VCDS It is what I did on mine

Thanks for that snippet of information, @daveo138 , not seen it said anywhere before. When I worked in a garage we always would scribe the mm/yy on a new battery both for information and in case of warranty. If this is ww/yy then mine is still on the original battery at 06/15, which is probably why stop-start is an occasional event these days. Still starting and running fine with no unexplained glitches, so will do a while longer.

The 'Magic Eye' indicator only indicates the electrolyte level (I.e. still covering the plates) - it is not a reliable indication of actual condition.

My 2020 car needed a new battery in 2024. Dad's 2024 car needed a new battery in 2025. Get it drop tested - I suspect it may be a bit knackered.

To give a final update for anyone else looking at this issue, at the end of Dec, a local VAG specialist agreed with the P06DA00 error code being a possible cause. They checked the battery health and was fine. The seller agreed to cover the cost of a new engine oil pressure valve and the local garage carried out the work. That seemed to work for around a month until the end of Jan, when it again went into limp mode. Turning the car on and off would sometimes clear the code but not consistently. I also experienced the gearbox juddering while shifting between 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th, as well as it outright stalling while coasting at 30mph. After more back and forth with the seller and the local Skoda main dealer, debating whether they had exercised their right to repair or not, we determined it was likely the camshaft or crankshaft speed sensor, which the camshaft sensor fault present in the original diagnostics as P072600 and P032200. The seller eventually agreed to collect the car and they replaced the crankshaft speed sensor, assuring me it was definitely this and not the camshaft. I had the car back after about 2 weeks. Test driving it, the issue seemed to be resolved, with lots of odd driving on steep hills etc to try and get any of the previous symptoms resolved. And then 4 days after having it back, while reversing onto my drive, the steering wheel goes click and the dash throws a driver's airbag error and all the steering controls are non-functional. I say enough is enough at this point and luckily they agree to have the car back in exchange for a refund. We did have a quibble over the fair usage deduction, with him trying to charge 45p/mile. I pointed out all the hassle we'd been through, that a chunk of the mileage was them collecting/returning the car, and that trading standards had a recommended framework (which you can see here) which should've been around 17p/mile. We eventually compromised on 26p/mile and after 5 weeks (not the 2 promised) I get the money back. In hindsight, I think my risk appetite was a lot less than I thought. But luckily enough a L&K 190 has just popped up for sale 5 miles away so fingers crossed!

The way I position the wheel is to sit on the floor facing it then wedge a foot either side of it so the wheel is sitting on the top of my feet as I then put a bolt in. I use the skoda screwdriver, the end of the handle has a 17mm socket so you can use it to easily spin in the bolts unti the thread catches. It always hurts my feet though, so maybe some positioning pins would be a better bet!

Hi, I would let a tire shop have a try. Hard to say whether it comes from the screw or from the hub... I also hope for you it's the screw Lesson's learnt: Use impact wrench, only to unscrew. To screw, use a simple ratchet to start, and apply the requested torque with a torque wrench.

I gave up using Adaptie Cruise, simply because it would drive the car like a maniac, driving at the speed limit rather than a comfortable speed, charging at bends, braking sharply. It frightened me as a driver, I dread to think what would happen if I used it if my wife was a passenger.

Not bad! I think I got 54mpg driving up through Wales going steady at national speed limit speeds, which I was very happy with. I think the car does well, especially if it's not regenerating the DPF. I've read you can do better if you don't use adaptive cruise as the car tends to use brakes to manage speed where as a sensible human just lets off and coasts to saves energy!

Hello @Exkiwi Thank you for your very valuable insights. Unfortunately not everyone has your expertise! Just trying to help.... ;-)