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The time has come to bid farewell to my Superb, shes served me well with only servicing/tyres costs for the last 5 years. I usually move when a car hits 100k but kept until 123k. Its a move thats not come easy but time to make a leap of extreme faith into an Audi EV (don't hate please),

Hi. It would be better for yourself if you started a new topic in the correct forum for your model (Octavia MkIII) Here's a link to direct you there where other MkIII owners can hopefully help out. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/

Air con recharge. £75. Now ice cold and no leaks detected.

Presumably this is why the sea routes have been planned. No where more than a few miles for the sea in the UK. Cables can be buried, they are in Snowdonia for the near 2 GW cable connecting Dinorwig to the Grid. Loving the sun shine and electricity being sold at nidge over 10 p per KWh this afternoon.

If you are buying new lower swivels, with a car at this age, I'd be buying aftermarket and normally you'd get a kit complete for each side with the swivel, lower nuts and top nut. Edit:- maybe check the Halfords site for prices for the lower swivels, they source these parts from ECP but the price can be less.

I edited my previous posting TRE nuts N 903 213 02 Lower swivel nuts N 103 320 02 RHS lower swivel 6R0 407 366 B (has captive bolt/studs) LHS lower swivel 6R0 407 365 B (has captive bolt/studs)

I'd always make the effort to use genuine parts as the thread size/grade for car aircraft etc fasteners is tighter than that for general use. Edit:- they are listed as M10 but the "bolts" should be captive and part of the swivels, the TREs are listed as being M12.

Ooh lucky bugger. Weve been a few times but seems to miss the puffins. Last time we wentbtere had been and Albatross around for a few days and that morning but it'd left about an hour before we got there.

How about a Stormy Petrel?

Yes - truly wonderful. Didn't see an Albatross unfortunately. Very pleased to have seen this. Very distant and not the best photo, but chuffed nonetheless 👍

Sorry - I meant air dryer as in one of the ones used to dry cars after washing them! It’s honestly probably more powerful than a leaf blower, and it’s nice and small. I use it to loosen everything up before hoovering, or to quickly clean stuff up if I can’t be bothered to hoover.

Sounds like you are going to have to go see another mechanic to get a diagnosis. What else were you thinking you can do? Are you a member of the RAC or AA who could arrange an Inspection?

Update: I bought from UK store and gave to my mechanic to install that Ω shape Door lock repair part and YES my driver's side lock work as it should be after so many months ! The ''click'' is a bit ''tougher'' compared to the passenger's door but i think is due to the different material and the 2nd lock has been used more.

@Evolution13 Yeah, we're in Sth Cumbria. Nearest main dealer is Morecambe. Our local mechanic did some investigation on refurbing the MCU and this is where I got the info about draining/replacing the gearbox oil. I tend to trust his advice, he's looked after all our cars & has a diagnostic unit (which tallied with the original diagnostic). He's also pretty scathing overall about the 'motor trade'. The original diagnostic was done in Edinburgh, which is where we were when the warning came on and I intended to take it back there for the work, if they could confirm when they can do it and it was not too risky to make the trip. The car is out of warranty so whatever happens I'm not going to affect that - but I do worry about 'quality and reliability'. It's the most expensive car I've ever had and I'd like to hang on to it for a while yet... But, tell me more about 'licensed equipment' ? (if that's not too impertinent ) Does that mean they're Skoda-blessed, or just licensed to refurb MCUs? Mechanic did investigate as he was willing to do the job, but baulked when he heard about keys and codes etc.

@lol-lol Subsea Planned for a long time now. Years behind the Wind Farms going live. When 75% of something not being used is still to be paid for that is just as the UK Government do things. They will pay for 100% of something not being used and maybe pay 150% or more for it, Ferries as examples, accommodation barges, etc etc. PS. Are you just ignoring the fact that the Sub Sea Interconnectors are planned, actually being built. Finished and hit land and buried to the Substation sites, But there are NIMBY,s who do not want the Cables coming to their 'No place is far from the Sea' in the UK. Many not bothered if it lands someplace else though.. Hence my post you are replying to. The Cables land near Carnoustie, already come across the land (UNDERGROUND) to Tealing where there is a Big Substation already, just not the Very very Big Substation needed, or the Pylons to transmit the electricity to England. Similar issues at many coastal sites around Scotland and RoUK where the cables come ashore.

@JackThe Where are you? (Edit, i see Cumbria.) MCU,s can be Refurbished or Replaced. A Main Dealer will be getting in a new one. There is nothing 'Only Skoda Main Dealers can do'. Infact some farm out Gearboxes / DSG,s, even large Dealership Groups. Plenty actual trained and qualified techs / mechanics about with Licensed Equipment? Often all the gear and more than just Ideas like at the Main Dealerships they left and set up in business.

Air con recharge today at local Kwik fit

Thanks for the explanation. Maybe it is time to find a newer radio/navigation system. I do like the Columbus though, easy to handle, especially if you know how to use the knobs.

If you are getting a lot of failed DPF regens due to short runs it can lead to dilution with diesel in oil which will make it thinner and more susceptible to be burnt. There was a recent post of a tdi experiencing a short and very lucky run on due to oil being so thin it managed to get past seals in turbo. His oil level was high when he checked but assumed it was overfilled. I try to take my 1.6tdi out for a decent run at least once a week as its now only doing short runs. Alasdair

Its not the software that can be updated to give you mib2 high. Lack of zoom is that it has half installed the map file which is only designed for the mib2 high. The software release code you have on their feels like a map release. It isn't. Map file release 370 and above are for the mib2 high only, prior to that a joint release. You aren't the first since as I recall an Australian just had the view of Australia with the zoom gone. Basically when Vag decided they were not releasing for mib1 high anymore loading mib2 high files into a mib1 gives you that.

Hi, I wanted to share the final solution in my case, because maybe it will help someone with the same problem. My car is a 2017 Skoda Kodiaq with the Swing / MEN2 unit. My unit details were: Software train: MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P6473L Installed MU version: 8170 Device part number: 565 035 871 Hardware: 612 Software: 8170 Bluetooth version: C160 SmartLink application: 0043 The problem was that after patching/unlocking the EEPROM, SmartLink was still not working correctly. I originally thought the EEPROM patch itself might be the full solution, but in my case it was not enough. The missing part was the FEC/SWaP codes. The EEPROM was unlocked/patched, but the required FEC codes for SmartLink were not added to the unit. I do not know exactly how to add FEC codes myself. I know there are people offering this service for a fee, for example through online adverts, and I used one of those services. After the FEC codes were added properly, SmartLink started working. So in my case the solution was: EEPROM unlock / patch Add the correct FEC/SWaP codes for SmartLink Before that I also tried firmware update routes, but my unit had MU 8170 and I was getting the error: “Source signature could not be verified” So the firmware update was not the real fix in my case. The important part was that the FEC codes were missing after the EEPROM unlock. Maybe this helps someone with MEN2.

I knew! I know! I was hoping as I was using my own buttons and airbag and just leave the heated element unplugged would avoid clockspring. Which it would. And airbag I thought I could live with but it was quite a big gap at the top. Plus it stunk of cigarettes and I don’t think I would have got that out of it! Fingers crossed for the M. It has the right buttons and there’s another on eBay with airbag which is the same so hopefully it will be a simple swap.

As you predicted - reply from Parts In Motion saying that they'll refund for the A335H, and to not bother sending it back. Can't argue with that!

Thanks I’ve found an M one which looks to be equivalent to your S. Fingers crossed. I loved the look of the sportline one in pictures but in the hand it just didn’t live up to expectations.

Greetings from HH 👍

Or just cheat and use an air dryer inside 😂

Yes fob battery life is greatly shortened (I change mine annually when MOT is done) important to change spare fob battery too and use it approx. once every 3 months (to re sync with the cars rolling codes)

Today I baked myself on my one hour commute home from the office. It turns out the air con doesn’t work. That’ll teach me for buying a car in winter. Called kwikfit en route and managed to get it booked in for a regas tomorrow. Curiously it started blowing ice cold about 2 minutes from home! I’m now questioning my sanity as to whether the ac button was enabled! Oh well won’t hurt to have the gas changed anyway.

I think it is part of the oil level sensor, ie in the bottom of the pan.

Yeah cheers for the input. Seems water pump is fine. Coolant was fine. No smoke so assume no water in combustion. Mechanic is diagnosing all of the temp sensors and parts and I’m away on a week holiday waiting for an update.

Thank you verry much for advices! Today i will start process and lets see how it goes ;)

When mine was using as much as it was, there was no indication from the exhaust that it was burning oil, I couldn't see any blue smoke etc. How much oil is the car using? As above VW tend to say 1 litre in 1200 miles is "normal". However, in my personal opinion and experience in working in maintenance engineering for 15 years, its far from normal. Service covers, and bonnets should only be opened when there is a breakdown or service required, having to open the bonnet once a month to top off oil is far from ideal. Especially with the technology and tolerances we work to in this day and age. Might be worth putting some engine flush through, letting it circulate, then change oil and filter with the LiquiMoly 4200 and using the ceratec. If youre planning on a strip down and machine anyway, then theres no harm in spending 80 quid just see what happens.

Try disconnecting the infotainment power for more than 10 mins - perhaps for more like 30. Assuming your system is Amundsen MIB2, I could supply a suitable SD card, but the map content is more than 5 years old.

This is the lock barrel - note one of the castellated protrusions was snapped off - could that be the cause of the issue?

I got new timing belt kit, water pump, serp belt and also requested a new oil pump and hexkey as a precaution. 125kw engine type CFGB 2011 with 378,000kms. Oil change interval average from previous owners 11,000kms, I change it at 8,000kms. I measured the wear on the corners of the hex key, worn area is 1.3mm smaller than centre unworn section. I am delighted to have a new oil pump and hex key. My engine was running perfectly, zero issues. Changing the hex key is for another 350,000kms hopefully. If I didn't, would it round off within 100,000kms..... probably. Sharing the info with you to help fellow owners make an informed decision.

Yeap, it's another PITA of the car being designed to take over from the driver, really annoys me the few times I drive my wife's 2015 Fabia.

Not experienced this myself but it could be the automatic humidity control. On my car the a/c comes on when the max air to screen button is pressed and the humidity is high. To reduce the humidity in the cabin, the a/c is used to produce cold air to condense out the water vapour to liquid water. The dryer air is then heated to the set temperature before going to the cabin/windows. On days where moisture has "misted up" the windows, manually switching on the a/c and a higher fan speed (without adjusting the air temperature) will very quickly demist the windows.

At 2 miles run, that would sound like an interrupted DPF regen.

I find these Skoda online manuals really bad. I would really prefer a nice PDF one too.

Yep, Western Skoda at Fort Kinnaird. Ta for the autohaus tip - I'll give them a ring. Really appreciate the advice @Evolution13

Thanks for that, the (2nd ) car i was going to look at the finance people wouldnt even deal with ( indepentant home trader) so goint to see the 3rd choice today .... IN CARDIFF ,,,, on a BANK HOLIDAY 🤪