Leaderboard

My mistake and big typo. The car was first registered in March 2024 and apparently used by Skoda to train technicians to work on the electronics, and it had only 25 miles on it when I bought the car in September 2024. The fact that the electronics had been worked on was revealed when East Yorkshire Retrofit Solutions installed my reversing camera and found that access screws under the dashboard had been removed and replaced. Everything I want now seems to be working, so I am inclined to leave it alone. P.S. A big recommendation for East Yorkshire Retrofit Solutions, who did a great job in installing and setting up the reversing camera.

Were they ok before the windscreen was replaced?

Hi, If you want an OEM looking dash cam, I would recommend a 'fitcamx' one. It's fully integrated to the inner mirror. The rear dash cam is not as well integrated.

This is a fairly common issue on VW Group cars. Usually the fix is changing the wiper switch, but I've seen several posts where people say cleaning the screen where the sensor is stops it, even though they were adamant the wiper stalk was was not in the auto position. I suppose it costs nothing to try that.

New to me 2023 Superb sportsline (Meteor Gray) 2.0TDI DSG, 9600 miles on the clock when I bought it. My first Skoda & loving it.

They didn’t notice my car was crash damaged 😂 Don’t trust a main dealer as far as you can throw them.

While taking photos of an Omani Air Force Hercules arriving this afternoon at Stansted, a pheasant suddenly emerged from the crops and gave me and my son a checking out for a few minutes, and once it decided we posed no threat, it proceeded to walk towards us and then between and disappeared into the hedgerow.

If you check the MOT history the very first MOT shows the car failed as both front tyres were worn right through to the ply/cords which in my mind is not a sign of a well looked after and cared for car, think carefully before deciding what is best for you, personally I would reject it and look for another well looked after car, there are plenty out there, take your time and the right car will turn up for you.

I have a 2019 Kodiaq Edition and am looking for a front/rear dash cam. Not too expensive and as hidden as possible. Any recommendations? Thanks

I was having exactly the same problem with my 2014 Seat Toledo 1.2 TSi and I found this thread by searching the web for these symptoms. Thankfully I had only tried replacing one other part earlier this week, when I found this thread, so I immediately looked at my coilpack and leads. In taking the first lead off the coilpack, I found the end of the lead was stuck on the pack, because of corrosion. I also had corrosion on at least one other lead where it plugs onto the pack. So I replaced the leads and the coilpack and this solved my problem. It is quite difficult to describe the symptoms to someone, as seen from this thread. I would say that while anywhere between about 20mph and about 40mph, and while accelerating quite hard in 2nd or 3rd gear, and with the RPM from about 2000 to 3000, there would be a sudden, significant drop in power, followed by it immediately coming back, and then dropping again and coming back again - multiple times within one second - hence someone calling it 'juddering' - so much that the passengers could feel themselves being shaken backwards and forwards. I really pushed it hard one time to try to work out what was going on, and it caused a load of faults and warnings to appear on the display, and it to go into limp mode. The problem manifested badly one day last week, but looking back on the last few months, I've now realised that it had started to happen, but much less severely, a few months ago. So, this may help someone: in my experience, the first sign of it back then, was that I would pull out onto a 60mph road from stopped, accelerate quite hard, and everything would be normal until there was what I thought of as a 'dead spot', probably while in 3rd. It then immediately picked up again. I noticed this quite often in that same place each time after leaving work. I put it down to something to do with the turbo (not knowing much about how they work), or more likely, a worn/dirty region on a potentiometer - either the accelerator, or the throttle body position feedback sensor (having already had very similar symptoms due to a broken internal connection to its PCB a few months ago). Before I found this thread, I checked the accelerator pot, which was fine, and I replaced the throttle body with a second hand one. So thanks everyone for your input in 2018!

Well done Cedwing. My wife sometimes thinks I'm an idiot. Rarely, but on this occasion, hands up. Thing is, I had sunglasses, no issue. Last week I got new shades, updated prescription and yes, turns out first lot weren't polarised, but these are. Actually a dramatic effect! Thank you Cedwing.

Thanks, followed the link for the instructions and have found it.

Like here - Crank case breather valve part fallen into crank case 1.2 TSI engine - Skoda Fabia Mk2 (2007-2014) - BRISKODA

You'll possibly find traces of oil where it "escaped" from - on the engine, poor design, ends up breaking off it seems.

Does that mean you've never used them on intermittent?

Pics

I had this on a ckfc engine - it was the casting of the intercooler - failed and leaked into no4 cylinder - got worse until car was hard to start. Easy to diagnose - 2 pipes in the top - fill it with antifreeze and block one pipe - rig a pressure tester to the other - pump the pressure and wait 30 mins

Marcvarc helped me out with the file.

Hello everyone, I have a Superb and I'm looking to update the firmware of the MIB3, since it's from 2021 and it seems to be outdated. I also have a lock that prevents the maps update, either online or via USB‑C. I'm going to look for information in this great community. It's a pleasure to be here!

Hi, reddit skoda brought me here as Im researching a new car. Looking to get a superb, probably the 1.4 or 2.0 petrol. I do about 8k miles/year, mostly short runs and commute, with 1-2 weekend away per month (200 mile return runs).

Yeah I saw that... not particularly cheap either! I'm going to take my mk1 Octavia Diesel (Think I told you about it... my dad bought it new still only done 53k) its not quite 30 years old yet but I have not seen one like it for years. Will look forward to getting a look at your Superb!!

Just switch off autowipe in the Infotainment settings.

Fixed that for you. 😁

This might help.

The water pumps on these had a plastic impeller which was renowned for shearing off or breaking up. Try filling up with water removing the small pipe that goes back to the top of the expansion tank, start it up and see if water is coming out of that small pipe....if not pump is not pumping. You may get away with a belt kit and pump if this is the case.....still doesn't explain the burning oil though!

Before removing head maybe a compression test. If its down on one or two cylinders then somewhere to start looking. Timing belt on the 1.9tdi wasnt difficult including water pump replacement at same time.(not sure re wpump on 2.0tdi) Got a cheap locking tool set off amazon plus you will probably need triple square spline set. Got this one off amazon for £15 and so far havent broken any. Alasdair

A few weeks ago I noticed a blow coming from exhaust so a quick trip down to my local centre, it needs a new mid and rear sections 1z0253609ah and 1k0253209eg but they cant source either part, turns out both are heavily lacking aftermarket support and zero stock of oem in the UK. I even had a exhaust parts specialist on the case and nothing. So the last 2 weeks I've delved deep into info about fitment. The ccza and bga 2.0 tfsi petrol vrs octavia does share the same exhaust from the cat back. You can still buy rare rear box but mid section no chance. So I ended up fitting a aftermarket rear with muffler and a muffler delete mid section stainless Steel 2.5" and they made me a coupler to join them together, problem solved and sound quite nice I must say.

I forgot to mention I've owned the car since new and this was the original exhaust, 2011 and 155k so not bad. The rear section cost me £170 delivered and mid section £200 delivered, fitment and my local high Street centre £70 total £450, alot better than the 1k I was quoted for custom exhaust. I will add some pictures soon.

timing belt change: write up https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/timing-belt-marks-wandering.413904/ another https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/how-to-install-a-skoda-octavia-timing-belt/ Handy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coS1uZFRPwc

If you have the wiper stalk set to Auto, which mine is permanently set to, the is the occasional random wiper sweep due to the sensor picking up something. You can adjust the sensitivity on the stalk. I have noticed in this heatwave and high humidity that it’s been doing it more frequently. Is suspect that with air con on there might be tiny condensation drops forming or moisture in the air that the sensor picks up. My previous VWdid much the same during the 11 years I owned it. The other issue with wipers is randomly refusing to switch off or coming on in the Off position but still working normally at the other stalk positions. Usually the only way to stop it is to switch the ignition off or remove the fuse for the wiper motor. Strangely refitting the fuse can fix the problem. I’ve read that this can happen when the wiper motor needs to reset the park position. Finally there is the fault that requires a new stalk, our Fabia has this fault, it’s apparently something to do with lubricating grease on the contacts in the stalk, happened twice last time was 18 months ago.

In the other posts I have seen for this fault, it appears that a faulty wiper stalk was the cause. If the stalk was in the 'Auto-wipe' position rather than Off when this happens, the cause can be a dirty screen around the rain sensor behind the RV mirror.

A few from Floors Castle gardens today.

Nearly there. Hardpipe kit from darkside arrived, fiddly to get it to sit right around the box, but I think I'll have it sorted. Way it wanted to sit left me with the same problem of interfering with the shifter. Got some bushes for the triangular up/down piece of the shifter, cleaned all down had to sand the pin that it pivots on the box as whatever grease was on it had hardened and bonded almost to the pin. Hard to describe but cleaned up well, new bushes for it and the squarish slider piece on the end. Slight improvement again and much improved over the previous setup. I'll order a bush for the gear stick and do it later on, it's decent but could be better, sort of last piece of the puzzle. The selector on the box with the weight will not come off so I'm "stuck" using it, not that I mind too much. New top part of downpipe on too. Spent some time touching up the undercoat I did end of last year. Wasn't bad but we had some ridiculous flooding start of the year and the plastic floor covers were filled with rocks and silt, was all off anyway and cleaned so. Touched up the wax coating, more schutz stuff around the exhaust tunnel (mostly for a bit of sound deadening and it was all out) Shot any holes full of lanolin too to keep on top of everything. Did some repairs to the lip, it'll get painted properly again at some point. Patched up best I could. Apparently fiberglass ones are being made now so could see me just replacing it at some point. Have repaired and repainted it before But it does get hammered on quite a bit Lovely road rash on it. Is running and driving on the lift, changed the oil, new coolant etc. it is very close now. Have videos I might link later. No leaks or anything either thus far. Not many more parts to go back on considering. Very happy with the hardpipe kit, was struggling immensely but think I've got it figured out. Tried fitting bigger spotlamps however they were too big. Have to reuse the old ones for now but not hard to change them. Old ones been on there long enough they'd seized, fortunate I had the crashbar off to get access and heat/soak them enough to get them loose. Will end up changing them at some point but at least for the summer there's no real need. Want to try get some (very gentle) miles on it before it gets mapped if it will let me. Bed in the clutch and make sure it's holding all the fluids it should. Trackings gonna be miles out now so that'll need sorting too.

In for nct this afternoon Towed up because I didn't want to chance getting stopped. And... Clean sheet pass. So now tested until September next year. Should be 2 years but due to the unique way nct works, it goes from the month it ran out to that month the next year. Because it's over 30 years old it gets a "2 year test". If it were any younger it'd be tested until September of this year, and have to go back in again. Makes complete sense right?