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First time ŠKODA owner here. Went all the way to Colchester from our home by Loch Ness to pick up a Octavia diesel estate which was pre registered with 31 miles on it. It had the premium winter pack which I really wanted as handy up here in the cold weather. Hope to get a few tips on getting the most out of the car. First impressions are really good. Great quality and drives really well and averaging almost 70 mpg on a run. Martin 👍🏻

For all the Skodians with 4 wheel drive cars, get your propshaft coupling aka doughnuts checked. My car went for quick oil change on Saturday and my mechanic mentioned that the rubber around the coupling is well perished and has a bit of play in it. Apparently common thing on Haldex equipped cars and if left for too long it can cause damage to rear diff... Skoda genuine part is not exactly cheap at £600 but there are cheaper alternatives

Well he looks a complete **** and exactly the sort of person I thought might be stupid enough to have bought it... 🤣

Seal came today. Really easy fit, just need something to hook the old seal out. The old seal was quite compressed, i think it stopped clicking as well when you tighten the cap up. It clicks again now. £3.25 delivered, much better than the £64 Skoda quoted to just change the seal... Pic is the old one, the cracks are quite obvious once you get it in the light.

The buyer behind the staggering $40 million winning bid for the first-ever Ferrari Luce has been revealed as Dr. Herbert “Herbie” Wertheim, a billionaire businessman, inventor and philanthropist. The Supercar BlogMeet the person who paid $40 million for a Ferrari Luce -...The buyer behind the staggering $40 million winning bid for the first-ever Ferrari Luce has been revealed as Dr. Herbert “Herbie” Wertheim, a billionaire

You can change what is displayed on the drivers display

Literally get the car up whether ramp or jack get underneath and grab propshaft near the coupling and try to move it side to side or up and down. It can also be checked visually for signs of perishing. My car has 52k miles so around 80k km?

Many thanks for taking the trouble to respond, folks. Very much appreciated. I now realise what seems to be happening as I did have the autohold activated. Best wishes

They usually start to go at around 70k miles from my experience and the tell tale sign seems to be a heavy vibration from the rear under load at about 2300rpm, heard more in higher gears.

More progress, sump off and new wet belt for the oil pump fitted, new crank seal and sump back on. Head refitted and rocker cover fitted, all new gaskets for the rocker cover and cam shafts etc. Turbo refitted with new gaskets and new seals for the return and feed lines. Dpf and egr cooler fitted with exhaust, all with new gaskets. New engine mounts fitted. Cam belt and pulleys refitted and timed up. Still got quite a bit to get through but all progress.

Checked my fabia's sills and there is rust creeping under the paint. I had odd rusty bit that turned out to be stone chip and not deep rust. I discovered thearea just ahead of the rear wheel is susceptible to corrosion. There is a fibre/plastic - tar manufacturer rust protection under paint. I used sharpened wood chisel to remove. The metal flaked. A hole has appeared. The rust has progressed under the sill rather than from above from wheel arch. I've previously used etch primer elsewhere, high build, topcoat, clear coat. Not always that durable. I bought stone guard spray paint to protect against stone chips which is why I was prepping sills. I've rubbed rust down to bare metal except some rust in pits of metal. I was going to use rust converter but read it is not compatible with primer. I'm going to use epoxy p40 isopon and some P38 after curing. I'm using epoxy spray primer 2k. I read I can add putty isopon first then the epoxy primer after curing or vice versa, as long as properly cured. The reason I'm looking at epoxy is that it is fully waterproof and stops rust. Can I add stone guard over epoxy primer then top coat 1k then 1k or 2k clearcoat? If not how would you do it? Is this correct? Thanks Front is not too bad, just behind wing - see image. Both sides of car rear end of sill are affected. The paint there looked fine and no bubbling. Since photo taken I've rubbed down rust.

Hi all, I am Michael, I'm old enough to know better and I live in Stourbridge. I am the proud owner of a 2004 Skoda Fabia Mk1 Estate with the 1.2 HTP engine where the previous owner was a fan of parking by feel, and deaf considering the absolute drone the exhaust is giving right now. It's a long and fruitless story about how I became the owner of the vehicle. It started away back in 2020 where upon the impending birth of my first born child my wife demanded I bought a more reliable/safe car. I bought a 2006 Land Cruiser which was cursed. While it was off the road for the first time of many technical (and EXPENSIVE) issues, I thought it'd be a good idea to spunk £1,500 on a Rover 827SLi. That can never worked. At all. So while I got the Land Cruiser working, the Rover festered. I then saw sense 18 months ago and sold the Land Cruiser and bought (on a whim) a Subaru Legacy Estate. Great car, I should never have got rid of it, but when child number 2 came along in December last year I PX'ed for a Peugeot Partner. Reason being I found it increasingly difficult to strap my now 4 year old in to it, so I thought I'd get a taller car. I bought a nail, and sold it at a loss 6 weeks later when it only worked for 2 of those days. Strapped for cash and really done with cars, I decided to not buy another car. I have a 2010 Peugeot 107 which I recommissioned and I've been driving that ever since. The problem though was that kids tend to grow, and my 4 year old is a tall lad and with me being 6ft 3 he was struggling in the back of my 107. While this was going on, I decided to give the Rover one last go. I failed. I came to the conclusion it needed electrical work which was many hundreds of pounds, many hundreds of pounds which I don't have (or wanted to spend to be honest), so I was starting to decide whether to scrap the Rover or move it on to someone who enjoyed inflicting pain upon themselves. I then came across this Fabia for cheap. £400. I decided it'd be a good stop gap and while I tried to strike a deal with the seller, I mentioned that I'd have to get rid of the Rover first to placate the long suffering wife who now maintains a "1 in, 1 out" rule. He suggested a swap for the Rover, and while I said it was fit for scrap he felt it was worth the challenge. So we did the swap, he got the Rover and I got the Skoda. Other than a 40 minute drive home, I've not really been able to drive for one reason or another. It's got a slipping clutch, the exhaust is LOUD (like a wet fart at a funeral loud), front electric windows don't work, driver's wing mirror has left the chat, and it's cosmetically challenged. However, a new clutch kit has been ordered, new window switch, and the exhaust has just separated from the clamp so that in itself isn't a huge deal. A friend has a unit and owes me some time for helping him move cars, so we're pencilled in for the 29th August to sort the clutch out etc. I have never owned a Skoda or any other VAG product, I've only ever driven my Mother In Law's Fabia which was a Mk2, but I am seriously impressed with the Fabia at it's age. Everything feels lovely to touch, the action of the indicators for example. The interior, even though the previous owner was teething or had dogs that are responsible for chewing the rear head rests, is really good. Clean, nothing seems to be missing, very well kept and presented. Even if the car is a 3 month, 6 month deal, it just needs to cart my sorry arse to and from work and be able to transport my two boys places while I load it with various tip run items etc. But initially, and I say this in the hope of not annoying the car gods, so far this car doesn't seem too bad. But I think it's evident from the start of this post that I either have pure bad luck with cars or I give them the kiss of death. This is a free car essentially, with a new clutch, and if it carries on working then I'll be happy.

Nice to know there's still some billionaires who're a bit philanthropic IMO. Actually made something of himself apparently inventing optical devices to help people. I'd rather a billionaire like that than ****ers who go full Nazi and kiss butt for tax breaks or inside information.

The app mystery is solved... my wife is the Primary User, and her MySkoda App does have the "Paid services", but I as a guest user don't. However Traffication is listed in red as "Expired February 2026" with an option to resubscribe for £4.50. The next check will be to see if the App screen has more on it if I open the car with her key and make sure she is the active user... best, M.

Sure. Unfortunately, I don't have any of those. I'll try replacing the USB port with the 5Q0035726E, along with the cables. According to reviews, the M version didn't work with the iPhone. One of the phones also displayed a slow charging warning (Nothing Phone 2A). If I can't fix it myself, I'll have someone else diagnose it.

Holy thread ressurrection @Jimmeth - I think you posted in the wrong thread!

Hi again! Just letting you know I ordered a part corresponding with 6Q1 423 893M and 6Q1 423 893H and it worked out. It was 16mm. Thanks for your help Pete

2016 Fabia Monte Carlo here. I had this issue on both windows after picking it up new a month or so ago. Tried lubing up the weatherstrips as recommended here with not much luck. After looking a little more into them I saw that one of the weatherstrips had folded over about half way along and was rubbing, causing some noise. Pulling it back into place fixed that side thank god. The other window had the noise coming from from somewhere else, deeper in the door, so I had the door card off to see what was what. In the end, it sounded like the noise was coming from the front rail of the window regulator. The fix I found was to get in through one of the bung holes inline with the regulator rail and spread (admittedly a little too much) red grease on the rail and slider, running it up and down 10-15 times. It's not come back yet, so knock on wood I think that's fixed it.

If it's the same as any other VAG group car then yes it does.

I did email their service manager for an explanation of the two different prices, he didn't bother to answer..

@Warrior193 yeah I guess I’m sticking to the fab for a while longer. Shame really I did want to celebrate passing my probation for my new job. But I’m going Egypt for my birthday this year so I’ll just enjoy that a bit harder with my lil lady. i did explain insurers will ask for MOT after car is written off regardless if it had a valid one before the accident. And true out there is the same Spec but with a seller that doesn’t have to omit any details. and I’ve had a look at the link and explained my offer further so let’s see. MOT expires in November anyway.

I’ve moved this to mk3, as I think the questions are mostly about the 2019 car.

Ah, i see ☹️ .. Thanks for the clarification.

Fixed service Regime set for Non Long life oil or Long life if you want fixed is 15,000 km / 9,400 miles.372 days. (so no setting at 10,000 km.) Flexible / Variable 30,000 km / 18,000-20,000 miles / 24 months.

Hi! I'm Ali from somewhere around the Southampton/Portsmouth Hampshire coast (not saying which as it's neither... ) I've been lurking for a while as My wife picked up a Fabia Mk III SE in Rallaye Green (Kermit!) last summer and it's been one of the most surprising cars I've ever been custodian of (lets face it, we never own these things, they are like cats... they let you look after them on their terms!) it's a 1.2 4 pot 90BHP and I never thought I'd say such great things about such a 'small' engine. It's essentially been pulling double duty as our main car as my car was supposed to be able to fill in the role of doing bigger drives etc but it's not had a great year with a catalogue of issues that sprung up since october taking it off the road and losing confidence until the final nail in it's coffin came when on the way to the garage to check out a few issues it started a new "whine" which ended up being the alternator lunching itself... so the combo of things all cropping up at the same time has relegated it to the status of "project car" and as I don't have space, time, funds or energy for a project car right now, it's going to be someone else's project car... :'( However that leads me to the second reason I've joined and that's due to acquiring a very low mileage ( 38K i.e. pensioner owned - gulp!) late '12 Octavia Mk2 Elegance in Dark Blue (Dynamic Blue?) and since it's missing a few options I'd have liked it to have had, I decided it was finally time to actually sign up - now that we're a 2-Skoda family...

@Warrior193 private seller I think they’ve picked it up directly from salvage. Had a family/ local friend fix it up and done a semi pro job. Now are wanting a different car / change of kind and want to sell it on. I’ve offered £3600 they countered £4k. 4750 -20% (Cat N) - 200 for brakes and bumper inconvenience. I mentioned the mismatched front bumper (missing headlight washers), front brakes needing done soon. And MOT due in just November. Also that cars are required to have a new MOT once written off regardless of Category. But seems like she won’t budge so I’ll possibly have to walk away. Sometimes it’s better to put it on black than trust a stranger in the marketplace that wasn’t being honest from the start. I learnt this from when my 1991 mr2 timing crapped out and cost me 3.7k in total when I was 24. Saddest day of my life at that point.

I basically lived in the centre. One stop out from HBF. Berliner Tor. I didn't have a car with me but a Student Bahn pass so S/U Bahn was my lifeblood! But I guess when you live out of the city, it's a mare. I worked out of the city in Ahrensburg and had the reverse problem

Nothing lasts forever. Belt may be ok but tensioner and maybe waterpump may fail. Still do mine every 5 years/60k for peace of mind. Alasdair

It does, but with auto hold off in a dsg you can make your final maneuvers by just pushing the brake pedal and changing from D to R to slowly get in the space, no need to blip anything and risk moving too quickly. In some cars the press on the accelerator to release is too much.

Schleswig-Holstein about 25Km or so from the centre of HH though I rarely go to the centre as it's a PITA unless you take the U-Bahn!

Nice @Lee01 ! which part of Germany is that? I'm not familiar enough with Waterlooville to know its twin towns... Wikipedia suggests Henstedt-Ulzburg which is not far at all from my favourite place in Germany: Hamburg (I did a year there on an Erasmus exchange)

Remember that the "forever" is for the life of the belt, when it fails it will cause a lot of engine damage. Typically, a cambelt in a 2012 Fabia has a recommended service life of 5 years - but do include your engine type/code.

My guess would be Blind Spot Assist - green for all clear?

Hello world I am somehow fan of Skoda for years. Dad had 3 of them. All cars that I owned had audio modified with OEM look. This one is the best on SQ.

Info such as which engine type you are asking about, for example. 2012 Fabias were made with a fair selection.

Sawtoothing of tyre treads or failing wheel bearing can be common causes of droning noises - as can loosening exhaust baffles. Does drone frequency change with vehicle or engine speed? Does it change depending on throttle setting?

Yes same signs as mine

Hi, You need to put info in the text box not just a title.

When was it last serviced? Have the Spark Plugs been changed at around 40,000 miles or since? Has the Air Filter been changed or looked at? Have the brakes been serviced, or inspected and has the brake fluid been changed? Is the AC used and has that been serviced?

Every OEM radio will require coding and component protection removal.

Easy one - was a broken spark plug! ( Spark plugs due replacement at next service)

Not a term I’ve heard for a while! Propshaft donut was always a thing on E36 BMWs. Soft donk when engaging reverse to remind you it was there. Good tip though - cheers Mario.

Had new ECS tuning steel oil pan and Racing Line oil filter housing installed and new oil put in 💪🏻

I've done it three times and have always had to make multiple payments with no issues at all (apart from the hassle of going through the whole process each time). I've done it by calling and using my debit card. I think the issue was VWFS would only accept £10K at a time. I've just found the email from the first one I did, where I queried it as I think the letter did make it sound like they wanted one payment. "Thank you for your email regarding payment. We can confirm you are able to split the transaction over seperate days. please complete the remaining amount on consecutive days. Please use your agreement number as the payment reference number."

One of my rear parking sensors had started to corrode in the centre. I had a spare that came with the car when I bought it so swapped that over today. Managed to get to it by just loosening off the under tray and working by feel. Straight plug and play swap and all tested working. Kept the old one as a backup spare it still works.

Your tyre pressures are far too low... Hence the wear. I'd also suggest you get the tracking looked at if that wear was on the inside edge as it suggests a slightly toe out setting at the moment However, the key problem will be the pressures your using IMHO.

The arcing and sparking that may be happening between these brushes and the sliprings could be causing various electrical problems.

The connection is inside the rear pillar. You pop off the trim in the car, unplug, pull off grommet, pull cable through. See this Youtube video I used

New struts purchased and installed. £80 for a pair on ebay shipped next day from the UK. Popped old ones off, popper new ones on. Job done. Will give away the old struts if anyone wants them and can do a better repair job than me.

Left tail gate strut failed - lots of beeping not much moving. Popped it off to find the wires have broken. Quick + dirty repair to make it work again whilst I order replacements.