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I took mine for its first MOT yesterday and it passed easily with a comment that it's in excellent condition all round. As it's only 3 years old and has just passed 18,000 miles, it's what I expected. The crunch comes at the end of this month when the tax is due at £640 - ouch!

Hi everyone, Quick update: problem solved! The clunk was caused by a slight movement of the front subframe. I replaced all six subframe mounting bolts with new ones and tightened them to the correct specification. Since then, the clunk has completely disappeared, including during braking, acceleration, reversing and direction changes. I’ve now driven the car in different conditions and everything is quiet and stable. So if you have a similar single clunk when the load changes direction, check the subframe mounting/bolts before replacing expensive parts.

Just a heads up for anyone thinking to order anything from this company. If they send you wrong parts from UK you are supposed to return them to Germany and cover postage which is not refundable!!! There is no phone to call them or email unless they provide you with one and only way to speak to them is via their chat where if you don't reply within 3 minutes another person will take over and then whole chat clears after 3 hours so there is no trace. About 15 different employees told me different things each. Plus where i live ( channel islands) local post refused to accept my parcel due it's value ( apparently post only accpts up to £120 worth) so only option i had left was DHL which cost £189 to Germany for set of 4 springs. Bear in mind i paid £233 for springs with postage from UK. And return is fully covered by you and not refundable. So if i did that i would only be getting back £44 ( that's if they deem returned parts eligible for refund) So just a little warning before you give your hard earned cash to these people 👍🏻

I ended up selling this due to fuel costs. I've since sold the red Fabia after the timing chain let go, and the silver one I bought to replace it was far too troublesome electrically. With petrol over £1.60 a litre, I deemed it wise to buy a V6 instead. Top of the line 2.6 V6 CDX manual, with all the trimmings. This is absolutely sublime.

Look for an independent who specialises in VAG motors, there are some out there who can service your vehicle and update the service log just as the dealership would

Go for ContiTech; it is the manufacturer for original VAG parts. I replaced the auxiliary belt tensioner at 152,184 km around the end of 2024 because there was a little squealing sound in the freezing winter on cold starts. However, the belt from 2013 (original equipment produced by Continental) was still in perfect condition without any cracks or wear. I replaced it anyway just because it came in the kit. For the water pump, go for ContiTech as well I've just replaced a Fiat water pump with that brand, and it is not giving me any problems. my advice for the timing chain is to buy an original one it isn't very expensive and is a good quality item

Yep, you need additional oil cooling. It's the transition from the oil path to the water path that needs a much bigger surface area.

I contacted @spacelord via a German Skoda forum. He sent me the connector, what a difference in sound, now I have bass in my Superb. Good to have forums like this!

With simpler old cars you get away with a poor battery but modern electronic systems are very sensitive to voltage drop. A low battery can cause all manner of problems. Hope a new one cures the problem. Alasdair

The correct rear springs for a Sedan/Saloon mk3 Superb is F11-15-007-04-HA. I've lost count how many times I've posted this table now. Don't go by wat these shops r putting on their websites.

I have had my car for about six months. Was getting bugged with the repeat updates that lately appeared every day. Today I have been offered a proper system update, hopefully that will get rid of the constant small updates. The files it's downloading is :- M013_EU_SKMQB_P33400P... 0/3602 MB. Fingers crossed it's improving it. Cheers Bart....

I used to own the Superb Hatchback KYXX XXB which had been faultless for my 4 years of ownership. Unfortunately on 10th April I was involved in a small accident which resulted in the offside front bumper, headlight and corner bonnet being damaged. The rest of the car was in excellent condition with 37.000 miles on the clock. I was amazed when the insurance company deemed it uneconomical to repair and offered me a payment which I accepted. I now see that the car is back on the road. So if you are the new owner of the car and would like all its full service and maintenance records from new message me and I will forward on. I will keep the offer open for another 4 weeks before I dispose of them if I have had no contact

Hopefully it's all sorted soon and u can get back to enjoying the car again.

Yep, good shout. Had watched lots of YouTube vids and was sensitive to that. Rear didn’t need touching as we changed the droplinks in situ. Front were unbolted and kept out the way then bolted back in, in the right holes. I can see the headlights self-level when I start the car so figure they’re working and happy too.

Sounds like you’ve either lost confidence or don’t have a good rapport with the dealer (or both), in which case I would be looking elsewhere. A good independent should be able to do everything a dealer can, but as you say finding one is easier said than done. Interestingly a Škoda dealer near me is advertising servicing for VW and Seat as well as Škoda - would be worth a chat with you nearby VW dealer, hopefully you’ll get a positive response.

Did u check the leveling sensors on the front LCAs? Usually when u remove or lower the LCA, u need to disconnect the leveling sensors so they don't snap or break. If they do break, or the wrong way round, the suspension (DCC), headlights, ABS and steering will b upset. There r two on each front LCA, and one on the rear left arm. Looks like this...... Rear...

4wa is booked - couldn’t schedule doing the work and getting the alignment done straight after. Minimal miles so I’m not overly worried about it as it’s a known. But it’s whether there’s a healthy chance that the midalignment would also trigger any or all of these by throwing out ADAS is what I’m curious about. Or whether it’s perhaps a wheel speed sensor as well and it’s multiple causes. ACC doesn’t work, nor does auto main beam (crystal matrix). That with the lane assist and dynamic lighting I could believe is ADAS, but the tyre pressure indicator, ESP, Autohold and hill start assist definitely point to a wheel sensor. Rear traffic alert doesn’t really fit into any of those categories though.

Ahhh, a lesser one! CD changer is in the glovebox on these. We do enjoy a multimedia experience...

Depends how long you're looking to keep it. At 5 years old independents are defo an option but there are still people that will put main dealer history first when buying.

Thought I'd let you know that finally, hopefully, without talking too soon!🤞, my infotainment updates seems to be sorted, at the start of last week I had a huge system update that took a combination of 4 20 minute journeys to download, and then could only update whilst the engine was off, after that updated I got a notification that there was 3 updates, all were the original updates I'd had 3 months ago, even though it was only the application one that kept repeating daily, they were "successfully" completed last thursday, although 1 did require me to lock my car for a minute!🤷‍♂️ but since then I've haven't had the daily applications update message that I'd been getting. So it would appear to address this issue Skoda have had to send out a huge system update just to install 3 small update, well thats what I hoping.

Were you at Matthewsons on the telly just now on a repeat 🤔😂 Never mind, that one had the superior CD player HU 😝

I don't think the parts come from the UK, it's all from mainland Europe as far as I know. They just pretend to be local by using .co.uk web address. There was a very similar thread - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540874-superb-3v3-tailgate-struts-beware-autodoc/ - about a week ago, and will continue being more because their pricing is so enticing.

Update - It was actually the n/s front wheel bearing so thats a relief . Prob a lot cheaper than propshaft. Thanks all for your comments , Alan

Yes that's correct. 3 different garages but all official Skoda/VAG dealerships in Switzerland... I think I'm going to write to Skoda Switzerland directly... Drop a bit of heat on the dealership at the same time. Gabbo

'call me Dave' Cameron. The PM back in 2016. This is the stuff you get with films like this. Find pictures any pictures.

Have you confirmed that the sunroof drains are running freely, to outside the car and cabin? As Warrior has said, the door seals were a known issue in early years - my then 2015 vRS was an affected car ( where the door seal prevented the doors from being able to drain properly). Gaz

Fancy a Freelander, electric with 818 hp for £37,000, complete with a 46" screen on the dashboard? Then you need to watch this video, and it also helps to explain just why and how the Jaecoo looks like a knock-off Range Rover.

Well - I concluded that it hadn't come from anywhere... maybe it was just debris lodged in the side of trim somewhere. The trim is now re-fitted and everything is working. I didn't dare lever out that top trim panel to get at the connector as that probably would mean breaking the tabs it has under the trim section below it... so I sort of followed the manual and removed luggage bar, lock cover(tailgate sill), Varioflex seats and the fibre board floor covering under them, and boot floor, lower C-panel trim, then the upper side trim. FInally that let me lever out the trim panel hiding the connector - I didn't remove it from the roof as wasn't sure how easy that would be to push back in.

I think I have come across that type of diesel fuel before, is it almost like treacle, black and really thick. The boilers at the bus station where I did my training had 2 boilers which used fuel like that and stank horribly. Each boiler had a preheat chamber (electrical) to heat and thus thin the fuel so that it could be pumped into the burner and ignited. Back in the 60s and 70s, when the UK was experiencing massive power cuts, we had to hire a couple of diesel-powered generators from a showman (mobile fair ground operator). One big one to power strings of 110V lamps we had to string everywhere for public safety, etc., and a smaller one just to mainly operate the boilers and the preheaters in order to provide adequate heating. The fuel tank for the boilers was underground at one level, and the boilers themselves were at an even lower level in order for this treacle-like fuel to exit the road tankers and also to flow from the storage tank to the boilers, where the heaters were laid out on the floor in front of the boilers.

I think we may have fixed the rattle! It seems the metal mount that the rear of the airbox sits on didnt have any damping material on it, mixed with the airbox's grommet being worn down meant that when i was accelerating swiftly, it was pushed onto the metal and the vibrations came onto the cabin, also some part of the intake hose connector was wobbling, perhaps the plastic clip had worn down, so we secured that as well we put some foam on the mount and so far it seems to have worked!

But where does plastic, etc., come from? Oil of course and is one of the smaller extractions from a barrel of crude, so what are we to do with the rest of the extracts such as petrol, diesel etc, Return to the days of dumping them just as they did with diesel before the diesel engine was invented? Apparently diesel engines are more thermally efficient than petrol ones. The History And Origin Of Diesel Fuel – Kendrick Oil Diesel engine - Wikipedia

^^^ Aluminium smelting. "This Country", he must mean England. Alvance British Aluminium Ltd. Fort William. Uses Hydro Power. Limits what it produces to the times of low cost electricity so Production is at 70%. High energy cost is what limits boosting production. According to MD Tom Uppington on BBC 5 live 'Wake up to money' 31/7/2026.

The UK government has created much of the current position and should be jumping through hoops to remedy the situation, but they aren't. Form your own opinions on why that is. This video explains the very points you raised above.

I dont think this is a relais or something like that. I am working on a solution and got a used BKV for testing at home, investigated the function and parts of the brake booster. The tests look promising, i well test my solution on my own car now.

How soon are diesel passenger cars really going to be banned from being first registered in the UK, EU or Rest of the World? When will be the current date given next be rowed back on? Russian Oil and Fuels were supposed to be sanctioned anyway and the USA were seizing ghost ships, even taking them into UK waters / ports. DONALD TRUMP was talking nonsense yesterday as usual. Diesel is produced during the cracking process and before you get to lighter products like gasoline and uses less energy to produce.

Volkswagon have just released details of their concept electric car, claimed to do 8.27 miles per kWh. This is based on their other concept car the XLintroduced back in 2009 and then the diesel powered 1 litre plug in electric, an early PHEV XL1 which was put on sale in 2015 in Europe only with electric range of 50km but the diesel engine delivered 100km on just 1 litre of diesel. This clearly demonstrates that the diesel-powered cars could be far more efficient and cleaner than they are today and help climate change. Volkswagen unveils the 'world's most efficient electric car' but you can't buy it

The idea is that the charcoal temporarily adsorbs the vapours, then releases them to be integrated into normal engine fuelling when engine is running. Lossless and clean.

@Evolution13 i bought my Karoq in April 24 (used 6 months old 1,000 miles) oil and filter service by selling dealer. Serviced again in April 25 and April 26, I asked for the Haldex oil change with the April 26 service. I’ll make a note for brake fluid to be done April 27. @Rory as you can see from the above - the services are 6 months out of phase with the first reg anniversary - the first service was 6 months early, free/included in purchase price.

It will just be fuel in there, not sediment. A pal of mine had a similar problem on a newish Octy, which was eventually fixed by dealer. They told him this: " They fixed the engine light problem. Apparently it is a known problem on some models, not usually on Octavia, where the vapour cartridge and pipe are undersized. The fix has been to replace these with the newer, larger, design. Done under warranty." I'd never heard anything like it.

Most Kits have a trim removal item (usually coloured orange) that you can use to gently pry the edge of the headlining off and tuck the cable under that. I ran the cable from the camera along the top of the rear trim then fed it down the plastic gaiter that hold the electrics for the wiper motor. Then carefully feed it down the "A" pillar. I say carefully because a lot of car have air bags in the "A" pillar and you don't want to disturb or place it in the way of the air bag. If you don't want to chance the "A" pillar then take it as far as the "B" pillar then down the trim (avoiding the seat belt run) along the lower trim beneath the door sill and up behind the side of the glovebox (or side panel) then to the camera itself. And save a hundred quid (plus) ! 😊

I was on 330, which still had the shop until a few days ago. But now on 334 which has reinstated the shop.

Folks, the car is great. I'm shattered but just hate it when folk collect their cars and then immediately go missing from forums. Here's a pic. I will post a final message tomorrow to wrap things up on the thread. Thanks again. David.

Autodoc’s scattergun approach to parts supply. H&R rear anti roll bar?

You can't add them manually on the MIB3. Not got my 334 update yet. I have 332 at the moment with random issues connecting to Android Auto so hopefully when it arrives it should fix those

Pls post a picture of label from upper housing of Columbus

Hi, I will make ebay auction for it asap and let you know. that touch panel was made by me. works great, already repaired 50 pieces of that radio in octavia 4. The problem is gone.

Hello, I made a solution for this kind of issue and also made a short movie how to fix touch panel under the black panel which is under the display if you have problems with self clicking or volume goes up or down all the time - this is the solution. Sometimes when on/off button is self clicking all the time - unit keeps rebooting as well.

I thought it might be useful for others to have this information all in one place. I do not claim to be an expert but this is just my bumbling process of adding front parking sensors to my Superb. Parts list: Wiring harness, sensors and brackets - Kit is for LHD and the 18pin plug was missing - seller refunded the cost of replacement plug Tool for cutting holes in bumper (18mm) Cable to extend wiring harness (0.35mm2) - I ordered 3m of each of the 6 colours for the loom to keep it consistent, if you label them well you can do it all in the same colour 18pin plug (was missing from the kit) 5Q0972718A - This is available cheaper from Ali but I bought it from a UK supplier for speed of delivery. 8k Parking module 5QA919294B - sourced from eBay - find one where the donor car matches yours as closely as possible in terms of age and spec, and it shouldn't need any parameterisation. Parking sensor switch (Find the part number for what you have currently plus the parking sensor button. Mine was electronic boot only originally so part number is 3V2927132Q) Colour Matched Spray paint - I had some left over from painting badges. Find your paint code for the perfect match. Cloth loom tape Heat Proof Conduit Possibly not necessary but I used some as a precaution. Wiring Diagram - Superb 3 8k Front parking sensor Wiring Diagram.pdf If you are not experienced in reading these, watch this to help understand them. @JR RS Guide to removing the front bumper Removing Front Bumper.pdf Seat Cupra guide to a similar retrofit Mostly similar but some coding is different. Firstly I laid out the wiring loom. This kit included the 26 pin plug (Which is part of the standard Rear only set up so is not required) but not the 18 pin plug for the front sensors. Some wires were already pinned into this plug. To remove them, slide the flat end open nearest the wires, then slide out the connector block. You remove the individual pins by pressing onto the silver part with a gentle tension on the cable. You have to do it twice as the pin comes out of the block. This kit also inlcuded some CAN wires, and the plug for the switches including some extra wires for that too. I removed the wires from that plug as I was going to add the wires I needed into the existing one. On this one there is a flap that opens (Under the warranty sticker) and it’s the same process for removing the wires. None of the cable colouring in this kit matches the wiring diagram. So I carefully traced which wire was which by looking at the pin positions on the plugs. I printed out the wiring diragram and relabelled it with the wires corresponding to my loom. As this kit is intended for LHD, I knew I would need to extend some wires. I used sleeve crimp terminals to extend the engine bay section of the loom (The one in the plastic conduit) and used the pins from the plug kit to terminate them. I continuity tested the wires with my multimeter before continuing just to be sure the connections were good. Then I wrapped the extended wires in loom tape. (In hindsight I could have fitted everything in reverse, so that the loom went down the drivers side of the engine bay, and I probably wouldnt have had to extend it, just pin the signal cables into the plug in reverse, or I could have ordered another male/female plug kit and just plugged it in to extend it) Next I painted the sensors. Rather than masking them up, I used the cutting tool to cut holes in a small cardboard box and taped them into position using masking tape. Be sure not to lay the paint on too thickly. Just three light coats and a couple of clear coat is plenty. Now to the install. As not all the parts had arrived, I installed everything before testing the kit in the blind hope that everything worked! First, remove the front bumper according to the guide above. The OEM positions for the sensors are clearly marked on the inside of the bumper. Drill a 9mm hole at the marked cross in the centre of the circle. Then use the cutting tool (pulling from the painted side inwards) to cut the neat holes. Fit the sensors with the sealing rings and clip them into the brackets. Offer them up to the holes. My outer two didn't sit quite flush, but in hindsight I may have put them on upside down! I found the AliExpress brackets had extra tabs on that needed cutting off for the brackets to sit flush. Finally, clean up the inside of the bumper with some brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol so that they are nice and clean. Peel off the backing from the sticky tape on the brackets and carefully position in to place. Be sure to get them as level as possible and give them a firm press so they stick well. Connect the wiring onto the sensors, making sure to push them until they click, and then push in the little tab to secure them. There is cable management moulded into the bumpers and the plug should end up near the plug for the temperature sensor. Note the colours of the wires for each sensor, and make sure they match to how you have labelled your wiring diagram. Now I started to route the next section of the loom through the engine bay, starting with the plug near the other half of the temperature sensor plug. I threaded it up past the washer bottle and along the side of the ECU. I made sure to avoid crossing closely to any large red cables in case of interference. I like to rebuild as I go, so at this point I got the front bumper back on and the car back on the ground. This is the point where I then struggled to find somewhere to get through into the cabin. There is a couple of grommets on the passenger side but I couldn't find my way through them. As my car is a DSG, I knew there would be a grommet in the drivers footwell where the clutch would be mounted. I pulled the grommet out and fed some stout wire up behind the heat shield to come out just under the scuttle. This is where I ran the cables through some heat proof conduit as they are crossing the back of the engine bay near to the exhaust. There is some convenient cable management clips that it slotted in to. Once in the footwell, I then routed the cables up and over the steering column area to emerge next to the PDC module which is mounted just above the accelerator pedal. Now to pinning the plugs. Remove the small storage tray from next to the steering wheel for better access. I removed the existing 26 pin plug from the module (Push the button then the lever pulls down) Cut the cable tie, and slide out the connecting block. On these connecting blocks, the pin positions are numbered at each end of each side, and its a case of counting along to the right position. To this plug, you add the wires for the front beeper to pins 2 and 10, ensuring you get them the right way round according to how they are pinned on the plug that goes into the beeper. You also add the two cables to go to the button, to position 16 and 17. Make sure you know which way round you have positioned them so you can put them into the corresponding positions in the plug for the switch. From here I routed the wire up and over the steering coloumn under the dash, and around the side of the centre console (One torx under a little cover towards the front, and then pull down on the panel to remove). Then its just a case of prising up the surround around the gear shifter, and releasing the red plug on the original switches, and the row of switches then pushes out from behind. Add your new pins to the plug to positon 4 and 5 (16 to 4, 17 to 5), slot the switches in, plug in and put the trim all back together. Now you can pin the 18 pin plug with the wires from the front sensors. Be careful to follow the wiring diagram carefully as the 18 and 10 are very difficult to distinguish and I wired it backwards initially. Then plug both the 26 and 18 pin plugs into your 8k controller. I got some errors initially as there is some coding required. Some was already correct but I checked the following were activated: Module 10 - Byte 2, Bit 0 Module 10 -Byte 1, Bit 5 Module 17 - Byte 13, Bit 0 Module 3 - Byte 24, Bit 5 to enable manoeuvre braking. Thanks to @Cairus for guiding me on the coding. Clear fault codes and all was well. No further dataset or parameterisation of the module was needed. (I initally bought a newer module from an iV that gave me all sorts of errors, hence the tip above of finding one as similar to your car as possible) The last thing to do was tidy up the wiring with a few cable ties, mount the beeper somewhere up under the dash, and swap the modules. Removing the plastic pins used to mount the module was one of the hardest things of this project. I had to use a fine screwdriver to push the centre pin out from beind, then pull out the outer pin. But finally all was in place, closed up and working well. And looks good from the outside too.

Solved! turned out to be the brake pads rattling in the calipers! You would not believe it could make such a loud clonk! new caliper pins and bent out the pad retaining clips a tad and it’s now rattle free! thanks for everyone’s input.

Diesel cars are only about 50% efficient at converting the energy in the fuel in to motion, at best. EV are over 90% at doing this. Energy density of hydrocarbon fuel is high but EV batteries are improving at a very fast rate, they were about 200 Wh/Kg but that has about doubled in the last few years and looking like doubling again plus rapidly falling cost. Diesel is going to be as dead as the Dodo soon. What was it about 4% new car sales according to the SMMT last month. A small blip upwards as buyers realize that diesel models are soon to be be discontinued so some die hards bought their land rovers etc before the model production is stopped to be replaced by electric versions. As well as the cars themselves there is increasing chatter that even the availability of diesel is going to be a problem in the weeks, months and years ahead with Trump pleading with Ukraine to stop bombing Russian oil and gas plants because of the world wide shortage shortage of diesel fuel. Diesel power vehicles could be even more efficient with more use of hybrid tech, heat pumps etc but they are already expensive, heavy etc and adding more tech will make them even more expensive whereas EV are much simpler and therefore cheaper especially as we have moved on from NMC chemistry to LMP, Na and solid state.