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https://youtu.be/6OGkR-ImnXw This is my daughters lucky basketball shot, she is trying to gain more views so thought I would share with fellow briskodians. I only filmed one shot.

Debadge - Wash - Dry - Enjoy I am now sure I prefer the "clean" back (literally)

Just clean up what you can see, use a solvent, (Brake cleaner spray can), use a toothbrush to get into the nooks and crannies. Refit sump, taking care to install the gasket correctly and don't overtighten the bolts. Fit a new filter, fill with correct spec (505.01) oil. Not ever with diesel or any other flushing snake oil/additive for that matter! Anything but the correct oil can irreparably damage the camshaft and PD injectors in a matter of minutes! Start the car, check the oil pressure light goes out. If everything looks fine let it idle a few minutes to get the oil circulated. Drive it normally, the strainer and oil filter will catch/stop any debris. Check for oil leaks from the sump in the initial days. For piece of mind you can change the oil and filter early if you want, but shouldn't really be necessary.

Found this https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10061-just-picked-up-my-7-r-and-problems-already/

You arent going to hit 60 in 5.2 in a stage 1 twincharger on a road, you might just about do that a drag strip. Expect more like high 5s on road with good tyres, low 6s with average tyres.

Another sad day, we still talk about Sam most days and his collar is placed over the gear lever in the car. He loved going for a ride and walk so he still comes with us. Sam loved chips so if we had some we always left him 2 on the chip tray and he had them after we had finished, we still leave 2 on the tray and we say " those are for sam." He always used to like licking the yogurt pots clean and I still leave a spoonful in the bottom when I've finished, That for Sam too......................

If any catastrophic damage were going to happen it already would have.

Yes they cut off just like a fuel pump.

Actually we were all born and brought up in what is now known as the People's Republic of South Yorkshire!

I know the Columbus & Amundsen are different beasts, but do they share the same maps (albeit on runs from SD one runs from HDD)? I have the MIB 2.5 Columbus (I think - 565035020A) and it's yet to fail me, getting me everywhere I have needed to go, to the doorstep.

decided to finally install LED foglights. looks smarter now and matches the DRLs and Xenons

This is exactly the car I have. From memory the car as originally supplied still had an indent for the spare wheel which was smoothed over by the mat. I wanted the best of both worlds. A spare when needed on a long journey but a deeper boot sometimes for larger items but also the raised boot floor if I need to move longer items so i get a level load floor equal to the same height as the folded row of middle seats. I did two things. First bought the replacement tyre set and inserts. This gives me a raised boot floor but not a level load option. Second I bought the parts for the 5 seater with the variable load floor. In 2018 in the UK this was only ever available on the lower spec 5 seater models not on my SE L version (else I would have ordered it). It was quite commonly available outside the UK at the higher spec. They dont do the 2018 specs now so not sure of current situation. Indeed I think many of the 5 seater options have gone The issue to solve is that I bought the two top panels to sit level with the boot lip and the mid row of seats when folded flat. However if you have a factory fitted variable boot they supply two brackets bolted to the chassis which allows the lift and tilt feature and support the panels on the join. You cannot retrofit this. So I cut 3 rails of wood and laid them in the boot in a H shape with the cross rail sitting below the join in the 2 top level floor panels. If you cut the right size with a tight fit the pressure keeps them in place. So I now have what I couldn't buy from the factory a five seater 2018 SEL 190 DSG with a spare wheel and a variable boot floor etc. Indeed I can have all of these at once. The boot is deep enough to have the spare wheel and poly inserts with the grey boot mat on top plus the split floor panels supported by my H arrangement above that to give me a flat rear floor if I want. You also create a void between the two levels which you can access by lifting up the top panel to store stuff in. I just swap things about as needed. I would say this was not a cheap arrangement nor easy to track down the part nos as when I was doing it most of the Kodiaq part numbers were not easily available The variable floor panels were very £££ I thought - you could do it with a strong sheet of wood but it would look odd. A dealer has suggested that Skoda may release a retrofit kit for the variable load floor similar to my wooden H but I haven't seen anything (although I don't need to look now)

It's an assist system, not the driver. I agree it doesn't respond quickly enough when the car in front accelerates, but it is easy enough to give it a hand with judicious use of the loud pedal. Equally it is also easy to disengage it and brake manually when the brake lights go on half a mile ahead on the motorway, then re-engage at a lower speed. I toggle mine up and down between zero and three bars depending on road and traffic conditions. I'm still just as in charge as I was before I had ACC, but I drive in a slightly different way now. Fifteen months in, I love the system and I'd never go back to a car without ACC.

I'd hate to have a but allergy!!!!!

So,as some of may have read i sold up my audi allroad due to many issues especially with their stealerships!!.Anyway back to the point.Yesterday driving down the motorway and the engine warning light comes on(deep joy).Quick thinking i dont live a million miles from the skoda dealership and think to myself i dont expect a fix at this time and point but if a technician could just connect his lap top i would find out if it at least safe to drive for the time being whilst booking it in probably next week(here's hoping i thought).So in i walk to Skoda Rochdale thinking hows this going to play out?I was met at service by a young lady who was very very helpful and understood what i was trying to achieve.She asked me to give her five minutes whilst she could try and get somebody out of the garage.Sure enough she said i found a technician give him 10minutes and he'll take a look(wow!).I can just imagine walking in the audi garage now and the reaction i would get!!! look at it today sir! no no no maybe 1 month next sunday whilst you also sort yourself a bridging loan and a cool compress for your brow! So sure enough i see my car disappear and low and behold not 10mins later the young lady reappears with my key,all sorted!No way i think to myself,but sure enough the technician appears aswell to explain the fault,this is bliss to me.Actually being able to speak to the person who sorted it and understands whats going on.The fault,well that was the adblue sensor not resetting itself simple as that.Honestly guys im blown away with this customer service. I really didnt expect a fix just the possibility of somebody checking quickly that the car was ok to get me home then like i say book in at a later date.This is why im glad to be back with Skoda real people understanding what your asking with a smile on their face,happy doing the job they are.Ironically the service girl used to work at the said audi stealership! she left and now enjoys her job,enough said.

Use care with those. I tried a few, one was the standard L&K I think, then some others that also looked less impressive than stock Sport skin and then there was one of the them that when selected managed to completely delete both my speedo and rpm gauges and even selecting the good ones again didn't revert the situation. I thought I was in for a dealer visit but after turn off and on again I managed to revert to the Sport skin.

Nope, yours isnt on that as its a 5pt and the chart starts at 6pt... This looks pretty similar though? Maybe... https://www.google.com/search?q=50/5pt+vw+locking+wheel+nut&client=ms-android-htc&prmd=ismvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiY64KRnLzhAhUVsHEKHfBBB2EQ_AUoAXoECAkQAQ&biw=360&bih=511#imgrc=uLxnjgOJYzy-hM&imgdii=JESTvlAYdKGSQM

No. Please stop assuming. I know how to drive the car. I know how the car operates. I know how to overtake. I have no idea if you are on the wind up or what here. I know moving the dsg gear stick backwards engages dsg sport mode. Thanks for reaffirmning that for me. In MY car (I dont know about yours so I wont assume) when I pull the gear stick back in comfort mode (I have DCC) the sound changes because the DSG is now in sport mode, the car remains essentially in comfort but with the intrusion of the fake noise. When the car is in sport mode it makes the noise also. I wouldnt be pressing the button to engage this when I was overtaking. Again, thanks. Both of those things are true on my car. Other wise, since I dont use sport mode I wouldnt have noticed it. Now it doesnt do it at all. All is well.

I see. We don't have boosterjet over here but 1.2 dualjet hybrid 4wd.

All sorted, got a guy to come over with VCDS on his laptop, needed to be bled 4 times front and back as there was that much air in the ABS! Time to sell the car now. The guys name was Greg, he was a really nice guy and I would definitely recommend him. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VCDS-Diagnostic-Service-AUDI-VW-SKODA-coding-scan-program-WORCESTER/162462860714?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D72317524fbb04e07a41d9f403c4bcec0%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D293034758226%26itm%3D162462860714&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af1df7c6a-5889-11e9-910e-74dbd18086d6|parentrq%3Af380fb551690aad37a978666fff76ac8|iid%3A1

FYI- Asda do a 505.01c oil for a lot less than other makes. ideal for use as a flush. Depends on when you buy it, but I've seen it as low as £14 for a 5l can. Mostly it's circa £20. How is it that grease monkeys tend to overtighten sump & wheel bolts. And of course ,the "Very best ( nearly had a typo with bast) tyre fitters ( as in ad) , can manage to over inflate a tyre. I'd re iterate the bit about tightening the sump correctly . Sumps and Rocker cover gaskets are better fitted at correct torque. And this post is perhaps why it's advisable to use A TORQUE WRENCH. Cheaper in long run. ( NO inference on OP)

Not Fork Handles surely or did I misunderstand?

Did the nearside today. Much quicker than the other side now that I have an idea of what's what. Probably added more insulation than the driverside. Once again treated any rust while in there. Next up is the fronts using Silentcoat from Amazon and 10mm closed cell from China. €30 per axle, cheap and satisfying DIY job.

Drivers loom replaced with modified version and everything works! The modified CE version seems to have longer cables... hope this lasts a while!

Should have gone for a manual when it was an option. Manual 245 no longer available in Aus

Your mothers and better halves can be forgiven as you're not in Yorkshire, however that kind of reckless behaviour in the production of a Yorkshire pudding within these counties would receive harsh punishment. AG, I'm in charge of the Yorkshire puddings in our house, I can't leave the wife in charge with her being from the wrong side of the Pennines. Like your wife the batter is made up in advance and chilled in the fridge before being popped into individual tins preheated, gas mark 8, greased with a knob of lard. As the batter goes in, filling the tin around half full, it should sizzle then back in the oven for 25 minutes. No peaking until done and then perfect light and tall Yorkshire puddings. You can do them larger as a starter to fill with gravy just the same.

Sorry. Didn't mean to come across like that.

Decided to strip down the rear of the car, brake pipes need replaced and the fuel tank straps have seen better days. Much easier to service the Haldex when it's out the car.

Did you note if any of the discs, or even wheels were particularly hot. One hot wheel or one disc hotter than the others gives the clue to which one has the issue, at least. I would say it sounds like a sticking pad. If it is this then the pad needs dressing ...............tidying up with a file around the lugs and applying some Ceratek grease. Copper grease will suffice if no Ceratek.

Happy days,I did 13 years at DFS Atworth including apprenticeship and there is now a( Dowty group of companies) Facebook page.

I’ve been in there a few times to have the ad-blue topped up. I always try to give them a ring to make sure they can fit me in, but a couple of times I have just gone in on spec and they have done it almost straight away. The only thing that is mildly annoying is that when you phone it goes to a call centre and not the dealer. See post above. However, the service receptionist has given me her email address so I now have a direct line to them. I’m looking forward to the end of May so I can order the Karoq.

Nobody is brave enough to do this under warranty to a quite new piece of gearbox. I have a tuned dq200 and i 100%recomend it. And I only believe the TVS tune, since everything can be custom specified.

PS just checked your question again to make sure I have covered all I can. When you buy a 5 seater without a spare wheel you also get a small thinner bit of polystyrene similar to the shaped pieces that fit round the wheel. This sits on top of the indent in the floor pan to smooth it out. so when you have the floor mat on top it is smooth. If I opt to configure my boot back to basics I take everything out and put the small polystyrene panel back in before the larger floor carpet (as you get higher in the Kodiaq boot each floor carpet and mat gets smaller as the boot area is widest at its deepest point. I do agree though if you take everything out it does make a significant difference to carrying capacity

Seems they were licensed to maximise profits above any sort of requirement to ‘serve’ all.

I now have TSR and hBA! At least it says I do & there are no errors. I haven’t actually driven anywhere yet to see if it works. Thanks for the help guys!!

Not sure, if it'll fit Felicia box, but Lupo/Arosa/Fabia 1.0/OHV had 73:15/4,867. 002 gearbox used in these cars is evolution of 14SK gearbox, so it might be interchangeable. @Mariosti This power/resistance graph is great, thanks. I think you can get rough estimation of drivetrain resistance by scaling resistance curve in way that it intersects with power curve at top speed mark. Looks like that 1.3MPi will have enough power to pull this "6th gear"

Ah, that's not too bad then. I was guessing Cyprus from your username and avatar. You could sent it to me and I'll take a look for you. I doubt you'll find a cheaper repair service.

Upgrading to 312mm front brakes.

Or you could add one of these: http://www.blackvue.co.uk/index.php/component/virtuemart/blackvue-parking-mode-add-ons/power-magic-electric-power-controller-detail?Itemid=0

Ahh, spring is here...

Second week of cleaning. Week one saw the glass sealant (G Techniq) and the ceramic coating (Sonax CC86). Both applied well and the coating left a silky-smooth "wet" finish. Not endured any rain yet, but after washing this week, the coating means that dirt and water effectively slide straight off the paintwork. Week two was touch-free wash with CYC Snow Foam and a splash of Chemical Guys Wash and Gloss, followed by a proper hand-wash to prep for the finishing. A generous application of both Poorboy's Black Hole glaze, and Poorboys EX-P Sealant to finish, finished with a silky finish of Poorboys Black Wax. The wheels were sealed in the first week with two applications of Poorboys Wheel Sealant, and a third application went on this week to all accessible areas.

1.5TSI Edition ordered prior to even demo being available in Nov 2017

My new Karoq 2.0 tdi Sportline 4x4. Awesome car, with heated screen, steering wheel and front and rear heated seats. Really impressed with it having come from a Kangaroq 1.5 petrol.

Just picked this up today 1.5 TSI sportline DSG 4x4 extras digital cockpit, front and rear heated seats, heated front windscreen, heated steering wheel, park assist, variable boot floor, auto light, and high beam assist

As Gerry mentioned, 1500 rpm is far to early to be changing up! It's also likely to damage the DMF as they don't like low RPM with high torque - even more so up hills... You've also not mentioned how long your journeys are. A TDi won't become fully efficient until it's properly warmed up. This can take quite a while depending on ambient temperature and how you're driving. Personally, I try and keep my engine above 1500 rpm unless there is practically no load on the engine. As soon as I want to accelerate or go up an incline, I change down to keep the RPM above 1500 again.

There's eibach's which are for both the 90bhp 1.2 and all the 1.0 versions. https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/eibach-30mm45mm-pro-lowering-suspension-springsfabia-nj-10-10tsi-12tsi-082014 The main thing you want to look at is the front axle loading. If you put higher loading springs on (for the 1.2 110 or 1.4 tdi) the front may ride high and/or stiffer than expected. The 1.0 is a light engine, so you want lower loaded ones. Go off the weights in the eibach one for a start maybe. (I'm getting the eibachs i linked later this summer closer to insurance renewal time).

Now that the weather's better I pulled the gearbox out of the car, drained the oil from the transfer box which was fine but the gearbox oil had debris in it including a differential rivet. Currently it's being rebuilt by a specialist, I'll take the opportunity to fit a G60 flywheel and VR6 clutch.