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We always fly. " Yorkshire Airlines "

Boom.

Unfortunately the flashing white spanner is alerting you to a DSG problem, a proper diagnostic including physical inspection will confirm this. With ours it was to notify us the internal pump within the mechatronic unit was leaking fluid and losing pressure, eventually leading to a car that was immovable as it couldn't select gears due to complete lack of pressure to operate clutches. Absolutely not I'm afraid, 2 main dealers told us prior to ours completely failing. Service interval reminders are different symbol from this and in slightly different area of dash, usually with sound. Skoda UK know what the flashing white spanner is but neglected to inform all of their dealerships as to the facts, resulting in people like me being given duff information and a monster bill. I won't tell tale again as it takes too long and still gets my dander up. Bottom line is the advice I was given by 2 main dealerships was erroneous and contributed towards the worsening of our problem, leading to an eventual failure of mechatronic unit and then clutch packs also being required, with a bill of £3200 to swallow into the bargain. The important thing for the OP to do here is to test, not guess. Book a diagnostic including physical inspection with a main dealer, preferably one that knows and understands the DQ200 box. My hope for you is that it turns out to be selector forks or clutch packs as those are cheaper options. Part prices last year, in UK, were £1149 plus vat for mechatronic unit, £585 plus vat for clutch packs. I wish you well.

Managed to get another few hours on the car today, lovely being at peace in the garage with some tunes on, doing stuff! I have now finished the wet sanding and subsequent machine polishing of the entire drivers side, including the A pillar, B pillars and roof cant rail. By the time i had machined the paint I worked it out that on average, each panel has taken a couple of hours to do. Eek! Once i had given everything an ipa wipe down I gave it all a coat of off the shelf chemical guys wax just to put a coating of something on it, then I found the new window rubbers out from stock. OSR door.. The new moulding in question... Now the moulding is a push fit over the outer door skin but previous experience told me some sort of lube is essential for it to push down flush against the door, so plain water was sprayed into the rubber channel and the moulding pushed firmly into place. The water will dry out and it’ll stay stuck fast. And fitted.. I’m very pleased with the shine on the paint now!!! I cannot easily fit the drivers window moulding as i am waiting to do that when I fit the refurbished mirrors in due course. Next job is to get the measuring ruler out and measure exactly where the door mouldings go, using my Black vRS as reference! The area where they stick on will be panel wiped down to ensure no wax remains then I’ll pop them on. Can’t wait to see the carbon dipped mouldings against the fresh Sprint Yellow soon.

I have 7 speed DSG but i'm not sure this is the model of the gearbox. How can i check if there was software update? is this something i can check by my own? Also, should i be worry from this icon? because i did understand (from the person i bought the car from) this was for few year already,

Just done over 1400 miles since the SUK "hesitation" update was put on my Karoq MY19 and the last 62 miles driven yesterday were issue free with reasonably good fuel consumption of 51.8 mpg, no motorway driving just A and B roads and some single track as well. For the first time topped up the petrol engine with 100ml of VW Skoda 0W-20 engine oil (508 spec).

Well at only 12 miles a year it shouldn't go wrong. What a few noughts between friends.

@penguin17 If your wife decided she likes the car (for whatever typical non-technical reason) you can try whatever you want to change her mind, including asking in every forum. Nothing will work. So unless you're prepared to sleep on the couch for 2 years and never see her kitty, prepare to cough all the money. Now.

This tutorial video is made by me. After having it more than one year I can conclude, that HBA works well, it's super comfy and no major problems have accored during that time. Maybe one small issue is with big reflecting traffic signs, as system detects this as passing car and will change main beam to dipped beam. Alltough I'm very happy with this retrofit.

I've owned a 2011 UK Fabia vRS Mk 2 from new; just completed 50,000 mls without mechanical issues. It was never subject to the 34F7 Service Campaign, possibly because the DSG had mineral, not synthetic, oil initially. When I've asked about gear oil changes at past services (Allams main dealer for 5 years, then a VW-approved independent) they've consulted the manuals and said No, it's a sealed-for-life box. The service book recommends at every 4 years/ 60,000 km "Inspect ATF level and quality and replace ATF if necessary", but I assume this hasn't been done on the understanding that it's designed as sealed-for-life and the service book anyway covers a range of Skoda models. Given the criticism of the DQ200 by 'Honest' John and a handful of posters in the DQ200 sticky thread (yes! I spent an hour of my life reading it, even though it seems a tad repetitive) I'm wondering it it's worth getting a transmission specialist to change the gearbox oil for peace of mind. Or do people feel this is a waste of money or might even provoke trouble? I'm planning on keeping the car for the foreseeable future. As implied above, I'm not aware of any gearbox deterioration, it's always been a little sluggish to take up drive from neutral but is then fine. Ancillary question: what is a reasonable life expectancy for the clutch pack - with previous manual cars 50,000 mls tended to be into risk territory? Thanks.

I've just put a deposit on a Citigo, a colour edition that I saw today. My third, first was an S when they first came out followed by a Monte Carlo. Went in to get an SE but they had the Colour Edition which had just arrived and I fell for it!

If that wasn't enough a strange enough occurrence, the fact that none of the 3 won the race is seriously weird.

there are two adjusting bolts on the rear one for camber and the other one for toe. (see pic) these are the bolts for the rear camber https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Upper-Rear-Suspension-Eccentric-Bolt-Nut-Kit-Camber-Alignment-Genuine/173170539631?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+V&hash=item2851c4bc6f:g:r7UAAOSwe2ZbvU88 you need to weigh up whether it is cheaper to get new arms or reuse the arms and fit poly bushes

The part that locks the bonnet is the U-shaped bit. The other part is just a safety catch which is held by a rivet and is not meant to be tight. If the bonnet is loose there is a bit of adjustment to be had by unscrewing the rubber buffers to take up slack.

It's just a ball ache, having to decide what you want to listen too, and then put it onto a USB stick... Only to decide you want to listen to something else! Having my Phone, with all my 50,000 tracks accessible at a whim, or Spotify for stuff I've not got yet etc... is easier! and I've never been able to get the USB to recognise my phone/streaming music! (even though people say it's possible)

The DIY remaps? You pay's ya money, ya takes ya chances.

Wow, that probably quadrupled the value of your Imp

I mean the timing belt tensioner.

Cheers; different car though, but still stranger things have happened...

Just thought I’d put in an update since I did the oil and filter change and went to 5w40. I’ve done about a further 1500 miles since changing to 5w40 and tbh it’s made no difference whatsoever to the oil consumption that I can detect, unfortunately it’s had a detrimental effect on my fuel economy to the tune of 10-15% so not good, even fairly long runs being a struggle to get close to 40mpg.As soon as I realised this was happening I started doing my topups with 5W30 C3 again. Having now put in over a litre of C3 in topups the fuel consumption is beginning to recover noticeably and will hopefully return to what it was previously once there is not much residual 5W40 left in the sump. A 30+ mile trip out of town the other day returned 43mpg which is a bit more promising. In all other respects the car is performing beautifully.

On a steep drive you might want to consider a hand winch. Seen this type been used before on a steep drive where an anchor point as set up so the winch could be added or removed easily when not in use. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tw600-hand-operated-winch/

I saw CSX Operations and thought of this thread.

So the mods began with a wrecked Seat Ibiza that gave up some of its trick bits for the Fabia. The major things removed were as follows: Darkside GTB1756VK turbo PD150 injectors Darkside FMIC & hardpipe kit 312mm big brake kit Whiteline RARB Whitter removable swan neck towbar I got cut up in the Ibiza and put its on its side avoiding a car on a slip road. I bought the salvage back from the insurance company for buttons specifically for the upgraded components and broke the car on the drive (much to the displeasure of the misses!!😬)

😂 oh don’t worry, I know how this works. Hence why I’ve bought the car and spent £110 on SuperSkoda. Kitty visitation rights are all intact for now.

Thank you! 😊

The Golf R and Audi S3 have the larger IS38 and the FL230 and FL245 have the smaller IS20.

@Arkaig Thanks! No doubt these will come in handy

I've seen horrific pictures of a Heli crewman who had his feet amputated after his non approved boots melted into his feet in a firey crash. I'll leave the crocs off if it's me.

The first 3 letters identify the engine from a hardware perspective, and the 4th one the ECU map and power output. As a result, DNUA and DNUE are the exact same engine (physically) with the only difference being the software it comes with from factory ie. the ECU map which affects the power output. Essentially the same units but tuned slightly differently. In other words, they can both hit the same numbers when remapped. APR recently announced Stage 1 software available for DNU- engines. Actually they announced it for the DNUE Golf R / S3 but they should be able to offer it for the DNUA Superb too. But, since DNU engines mean dual GPF's (Gas Particulate Filter - hence the new engine code) the gains are lower (~330-340bhp) compared to what these engines were making with a Stage 1 map before the GPFs were introduced (360-370bhp). However... Milltek, have just released their DNU- specific downpipe (with a GPF delete section) so combining the two one should be able to see again, pre-GPF figures (Stage 1: 360-370bhp, Stage 2: 380-400bhp). Ideally, you'd prefer the tuner to have developed the tune WITH the GPF delete in mind in order to profit as much as possible from it, but it's almost certain that even a "non-GPF-delete optimized" map (like APR's current Stage 1) would make more power than advertised if coupled with a GPF delete downpipe as Milltek's. Hope I didn't sound very confusing...

That's low mileage! I did 25000 in my S and over 40000 in the Monte. No issues with either, such a shame they've stopped production of ones with engines now.

As above really there is a link with part numbers too. If you want to do it fairly cheaply it’ll be a MIB2 Amundsen you want, either with the 6.5 inch screen or the 8 inch screen. CP removal and coding will still need doing and you will need a scan of the car to send to the installer, also you’ll need a GPS antenna and activation of the nav menu in the cluster.

No level tube in the bottom of the gearbox. Drain oil out and fill up the high pressure hydraulics from up top. 7 speed uses separate oils for the gearbox and mechatronics.

Still less than 1k 53mpg just filled up with shell v power to see if it "helps" those 75 ponies. Everyone including me will be totally dismissive but a few yearsback I had to fill our fiat uylsse with bp ultimate diesel and no word of a lie mpg improved by 10%.. additional cost outweighed the benefit but I was mega impressed , being a yorkshire lad an' all.

I chatted to Steve Rider and Will Hoy in the pits on Press Day at Brands in the 1990's before getting my Autocar prize of 3 laps with Rickard Rydell in the then brand new S40 BTCC race car. What an experience and what a day. TWR ran the Volvo race cars back then and I was the first member of the public to get a ride in the S40.

Two Yetis, no issues. You'll need to try harder to put folk off in here 😂

I've copy and pasted snippet by someone else from another forum which I found interesting:

@Voodoo_Ray You bought the 190 HP edition and you need to drive it in ECO mode? On top of that with an automatic gearbox? That is hilarious. All conditions are met to burn a LOT of fuel and to fight the gearbox that has its own mind. If you had the money to buy the car, you can open the kitty wider for fuel too...

MDI USB works fine.

Had my first minor issue earlier this week whist camping in Cornwall. When I open a window after it has rained I get a mini deluge pouring in, so I've learned to keep them shut. But I hadn't noticed my daughter had opened hers. The rain water soaked the passenger side window switch. It developed a mind of it's own, constantly lowering and raising itself and juddering. I had to wait for it to stay up a second and quickly remove the keys. With a swiss army knife I removed the switch and dried it and held a fan heater over the hole incase any had got to motor. Re fitting the next day I found I could control the window with the driver's side control, but the passenger side was dead. I ordered a replacement switch on Amazon prime for £6.87 so it would arrive for my return. Fitted today all Robert's your father's brother. Sweet 20190809_172352.mp4

Hi, Lovely looking car. How about another option than a T6. I'm selling my 2016 Dodge RAM V8 HEMI with 4 cyl deactivation. 9200 miles and as new condition. For sale at £28,500 ono I imported this myself from Canada in 2016. Loads of room in this...... https://www.gumtree.com/p/trucks/2016-dodge-ram-1500-bighorn-4x4-crew-cab-57-litre-v8-hemi-private-sale/1346122035 Let me know. Thanks Kelvin

Yes Mk2.

I doubt you'll overwrite the map. There's no possibility of doing that unless you choose to delete data or replace one file with another somehow. You should be able to use the existing space on the sd card for the speed cams, but I'm not certain you need the maps sd card inserted to update the Poi, do you?

Did you get the sway bar fitted? I think it was absolute best mod I did to mine! It also has Eibach lowering springs (absolutely brilliant and really happy I didn't go for coilovers), Forge intake, catback custom exhaust, stage 1 remap and 17 inch Team Dynamics with offset of 38 which pushes the wheels out just enough to give it a wider stance. Now considering a full downpipe with decat and then either stage 2 tune (circa 150 bhp) or a hybrid turbo which should get to about 180bhp

Well, if you do find something please share it here. It's one of the very few niggles I have about the car and I have ended up sticking with Normal most of the time just because I do a lot of start-stop during my drives and I can't be bothered re-pressing the Mode button while rushing, checking the road, talking to the little one at the back etc. etc.

Purchased one week ago 1.5tsi dsg 4x4 sport line

Confirmation of the electrical era - a lecture:

Not taking into consideration the source (lossless, mp3,aac or whatever) the division is about 80% speakers, 15% amp and 5% all the cables, connectors, codecs etc. Main thing with amp is that it has to have plenty of W to drive the speakers but with good sensitive (96dB or so) speakers its not a problem -> with 5W you will blow your bloody head off. If the amp is weak then you will just have to listen quietly or blow the tweeters (clipping, current into speakers or smt) OR FIND SOME FINE SENSITIVE SPEAKERS. I would swap the speakers first. Options: fine speakers+****ty amp=perhaps some hiss but still decent sound. ****ty speakers + OMGWTF perfect amp = ****ty sound. There is very little room to f...ck up in a modern amp but there is a myriad of things to screw with in the speakers. P.S. I find lossless from SD card to be the best, BT audio tends to be of a ****ty quality, same tracks from android auto sound much better. IMHO canton is quite good (except for the sub being a piece of crap).

In the 105k miles my Octy 2 has done, I've always filled it up with the cheapest diesel I can find - invariably the supermarkets bog standard - and I've had no issues with it. Anecdotal evidence I know, but I struggle to see the benefit of an extra 5p+ per litre when I fill up...