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Showing content with the highest reputation on 24/09/20 in all areas

  1. Good tyre choice. I'm on my 6th set of rims in 1 year
    4 points
  2. Didn't see the point, as i don't really like anyone enough to get close enough to need it!!
    3 points
  3. There is nothing worse than an early start with no sleep and then you find somebody has tipped your car onto it's door :(
    2 points
  4. Spoke too soon. The jeep guy phoned me back at 5pm. Hopfully will get a drive tomorrow.
    2 points
  5. Your reports have always been very impressive in all sorts of ways and based on those, I'd have forked out another £1500 for the extra umph in the 1.5, particularly as there's hardly any insurance hit, but I'm still very happy with the 1.0 performance, particularly when DSG gear lever is pushed into Sport. I do recall that some early reviewers were enthusiastic about the 1.5, but not all, similar to variation in comments here. I suppose that illustrates that at least a few 1.5s aren't as good as they could be. No doubt most are as impressive as yours, but there again, a recent review I read (can't remember where) did note some noise from the engine, including at high revs. You were lucky to get the particular Michelin tyres on your car (Pilots I think) - a recent review found them to be one of the best riding tyres on the market if the competing Goodyears were just a little quieter. I expect there's the occasional duff 1.0 too. One or two early reviews did also note that this engine made a typical 3cyl roar when pushed hard - I suppose mine does when trying to overtake very quickly + a mild 3 cyl thrum around 1500-2000rpm up hills in a high gear, but cruising along and in most driving, including normal acceleration, it's very quiet.
    2 points
  6. A couple of years ago we had a holiday in Canada. Our hire car was meant to be a Rav4 but we were upgraded to a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited (5 door). It looked the part and would go anywhere you pointed it. We took it up a steep forest track which was partially covered it mud and slush and in normal 4 wheel drive it was as planted as driving on the road. I did not push the on road handling too much as it was fitted with chunky off road tyres but the ride was good and we had no aches and pains even after a full days driving. I would add that we thought that it was a big vehicle until we parked it between 2 Ford pickups when it seemed very small.
    2 points
  7. My Karoq has arrived at dealers. Just under 13 weeks from order. Will collect next Thursday. Andy
    2 points
  8. The startup routine appears to be correct. I have adjusted the lights using the 6mm hex nut and they are now much, much better. It took 3.5 full turns to get them to a sensible level. It is inconceivable how the previous owner drove the vehicle like it was. Any speed over 40 became dangerous as there was zero visibility in oncoming traffic. And it was MOT'd 2 weeks ago before I bought it!! Thanks for all the help, think it's resolved now (fingers crossed)
    2 points
  9. Sort of difficult to socially distance when you're giving (or getting) a backy
    2 points
  10. Actually yes, I started looking the other day and the Shogun is much cheaper than the equivalent LC. I tried to get a test drive of a LC. Phoned three garage, two didn't have one, one might have but never called back. Potential £50k sale, can't be arsed to call back during a recession. I'm gpoing to try to get a drive in a Wrangler as well. It'll be terrible on road but at least it's interesting. Lady E, you're right of course but it won't fit in the garage. I also found this... https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1153399
    2 points
  11. That might be asking a lot from my interweb abilities. Me thinks some retraining may need to be covered.
    2 points
  12. I think we should make it a rule that if we recommend a film we should try and post the trailer that accompanies it I re-read the OP and Colin said he didn't like watching trailers, but you don't have to watch them if you are afraid of spoilers
    2 points
  13. Fixed for the moment. Several of the wires in the rubber flexi hose running from the Car to the boot had split (the power to the central locking being one of them. 7 years of opening and closing the boot (and there probably not being much slack) had finally taken its toll on the wiring loom at that point of flex. Been patched up for now and is working again, but ultimately it is going to need a new loom for £450 parts and Labour. Waiting for said loom to turn up from Skoda (none in the UK apparently, so it’s coming from the Czech Republic).
    2 points
  14. E marked DRL addons, like the Ring ones you get from Halfords, are perfectly legal to add and won't be an MOT failure. But they have to be E marked so no Chinese cheapos off ebay.
    2 points
  15. Welcome along I always watch those too
    2 points
  16. "Asda to crack down on shoppers without face masks" Morrisons have also announced plans. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-54261861 In my personal opinion, about bl@@dy time too!
    2 points
  17. So I could have sworn the SportLine I had in a few weeks ago had a radio splash screen that said SportLine. That car was a 2017 with MIB2 Columbus. Not sure if this only affects the cars with Amundsen but apparently there are people out there who have SportLine Superb’s and the radio splash screen just has the normal ‘Welcome to Skoda’ screen like the late 2018 (MY19) car I had in yesterday. So if this affects you, coding is 5F Byte 18 and you change the value from 8 to 13 in text mode, reset the radio and boom! SportLine splash screen. You’re welcome 😁 Also coded other goodies like the seat comfort access with working radio toggle And 30 colour lighting with pre coding for RGB footwell lighting which is a retrofit that is coming soon!!
    1 point
  18. Hello Don't think i have ever created a thread of my car on here so i'll update with pictures as i go along i don't really use the car anymore due to buying a 2013 Leon FR+ as my current daily but i bought the car back in 2014 and had around 59k on the clocks, its currently sitting at 82k i believe and in a very sorry state. had all sorts of niggles appear a few months of owning the car, was a little annoyed as i had traded in a perfectly good MK4 Golf GT (PD130), luckily i had some used car warranty and managed to get the flywheel replaced as it only started knocking a couple weeks after i bought the car. it suffered from a bad judder at idle and i then came to the realisation that the cam was showing signs of some wear, that was a few years ago and its still got that cam today, to help it idle better i played around with the cam timing via vcds whilst moving the cam within the tolerances and its been fine ever since, i will most likely get around to replacing that as well in the next few months, the timing belt is due again so would be better to do that as well whilst fitting a cam kit. like i mentioned its in a bit of a sorry state and its pretty much sat undriven for a year, the brakes have corroded due to lack of use, the genuine 5 year old battery gave up months ago and i lost all interest in doing anything with it. The sills had seen better days even when i bought the car and they're looking a bit worse for wear but ill go ahead and have a bash at seeing if i can do anything with them, the rear heat-shield is hanging down as well and i have a few sections of generic scrap heat-shield and new clips to hold it back up, just before i stopped driving the car i noticed a very sweet smell when the heaters were on hot and very bad condensation, turned out to be a leaking matrix, i did replace that but the metal pipes broke so i have still yet to source some rubber hose but at least there's no more condensation, the heater matrix is currently bypassed for now, the spoiler has zero lacquer and the wheels are in urgent need of a refurb, i really want to fix everything on the car now because i have the luxury of being able to do it at a slow pace and not have to worry about having to get it mobile again for the weekly commute. here are some of the things i'm planning to do or already has ordered 4 new stainless steel bleed nipples full brake strip and clean and bleed new PAS pipes (going to hammerite them and stone chip spray them) new exchange rack cam kit timing belt and water pump full service get the old style badges on and new chrome grille wheel refurb and new old style badges clean each corner of the car, liners off, de-grease, hammerite and underseal rear axle off and powdercoated or get a spare and prep myself along with new bushes passenger spring and shock with new top mount/bearing (drivers was done last year when spring snapped) rear springs and shocks replaced rear brake disc back plates couple years ago and applied lots of hammerite fitted cupra bushes, drop links, anti roll bar bushes and new lemforder arms and ball joints up front couple years ago grind the sills back and see whats what (better than just leaving them i guess) complete the heater matrix repair repaint the callipers (assuming they're all serviceable) first repair will be sorting out the brakes as the pedal is pathetic and the discs really need cleaned up so the stainless steel nipples will get fitted and will get new fluid put through the system, should be doing this in the next couple weeks and will update with pictures
    1 point
  19. That is perfect, and normal. I have SLA headlights, hence why it does some extra bits and pieces on the startup test. I used to have normal bi-xenons before, and it did the exact same as urs now.
    1 point
  20. Drive it normally, rather than 'I'm in a big hurry' and you will do no harm at all. Worse to leave it idling, waiting for it to warm up.
    1 point
  21. Search seat, I did that off the top of my head so it might not be exactly what it says and you’ll find it in there somewhere.
    1 point
  22. Even better tip; have your best mate be a mechanic 😉 👍🏻. His labour costs tend to be alcoholic 😂
    1 point
  23. Top tip, get some new top mounts too while changing springs. Wish id done mine, got the slightest knock now and again and think it's down to top mounts. Saves paying labour twice
    1 point
  24. Instead of. On long coding with the long coding helper it shows Lane Assist as that Bit.
    1 point
  25. Yes was looking at focus st estates similar price just a lot more miles as soon as I seen this I jumped at it, had been on the forecourt for 2 weeks and only 1 person had looked at it. Big smiles so far 😁
    1 point
  26. hi all First time skoda owner coming from a e90 BMW 3 series 330d and first petrol car in a long time. So here it is picked it up last Monday 15,000 miles on the clock and immaculate condition so far so good !
    1 point
  27. I've ordered some from eBay they say they are genuine OE but weather they are or not I'll see. I've tried a spark plug socket on it and that fits so I might try that with a long Allen key socket but I've got some swan neck spanners if not. I changed the spring on my girlfriends fiesta a couple last year but I know each car is different. I've got the work shop manual section printed off ready. Everything else looks fine the springs were new on the car when I got it (I'm guessing that's what the previous owner thought it was) the shocks seem fine just surface rust on the frame and the bumper and dust covers all seem good.
    1 point
  28. That nut uses an M14x1.5 thread. That is the same thread that Fabia wheel bolts use. If you take a look at the wikipedia entry on ISO metric screw threads, you will see that the 1.5mm thread pitch is a fine thread for an M14 diameter. You will also see on the wikipedia entry, that M14 threads take a 21mm spanner if the nut or bolt with that thread is made to the ISO specification. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread wheel bolt M14X1,5X27 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2008/drive_standart/453/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601010/part_id/2543667/lang/e
    1 point
  29. People are generally replacing shocks and/or springs if they go into that area on cars of this age (unless previously replaced) and the new non-genuine shocks generally come with nuts, but I guess you are meaning item 5 here?: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/411-411000/ N 10401801 I'm sure lots of people do re-use them without disaster following, but it's not recommended.
    1 point
  30. Cheap kit just for lows. For £270 I don't see the problem and if you aren't fussed about crisp handling. They might not last very long (rust wise) but they're suit a purpose. I had JOMs on my e36 and they were comfy as hell! I'd want to go Bilstein B14 at the least now though, I want my car to handle well.
    1 point
  31. The old app I wouldn't download but this one I would as info is stored locally (i.e. on the phone) and not sent to Cummings or SERCO. Good thread by a tech expert here https://threadreaderapp.com/thread/1309008721838772225.html More on the background here https://www.apple.com/uk/newsroom/2020/04/apple-and-google-partner-on-covid-19-contact-tracing-technology/
    1 point
  32. I don't think anyone will buy a 1.0l Karoq expecting it to be 'quick'. However, it definitely doesn't feel slow, it doesn't feel under-engined, and it doesn't feel thrashy, noisy or un-refined. If you had to do a 200 mile drive every single day with five people on board and all their luggage in the boot, you might want to consider one of the other engines in the range. I don't, so the small engine works well enough for my needs, even stepping down from previous cars with a lot more power.
    1 point
  33. That 7th cog on the DSG & Eco driving mode makes a difference. Mine has only 6 cogs & since adopting Eco drive mode & having now done a few longer trips it is now up to an avg 36mpg (up from 25mpg avg with just local roads & sport mode).
    1 point
  34. All 280s have MPI and flaps. Some 272s have flaps. Mine even have mud flaps!
    1 point
  35. One of our recently adopted cats climbed onto my lap for the first time today, and lay down for some fuss and a snooze. It's great to know he's feeling at home enough to be that relaxed.
    1 point
  36. Hello mate, not sure on Stanced coilovers as a brand. I'm guessing its their stanced+ Street variant? Anyways, I will just raise some caution regarding the price of these. They're cheap. Cheap coilovers usually end with negative results. The ride is likely to be way too harsh for the UK, the bodies will be a cheap material, one thats likely to corrode. I'd avoid, I had cheap coilovers on one previous car (mk1 cupra R) and regretted not investing, it might as well have nearly broke my spine and definitely destroyed other components by making everything way too harsh a ride. Essentially ruined a really good car. If you can invest in a more expensive brand (KW variant 2's or 3's at a push) with damper rebound adjustable settings is the better way to do it, that way you can tune out the harshness by compensating the rebound settings to suit. Problem there is price is going up 3 or 4 times that of the Stanced coilovers. I'm sure the H&R's for your skoda quattro VR TDi are part number: HR-28833-3. Awesome GTi stock these...
    1 point
  37. Just an update regarding this thread. I booked in with Skoda for them to diagnose. The spark plugs were overdue so they changed them but this didn't resolve the issue. They put it down to a piston/cylinder misfire issue and advised me to take back to the garage I bought it from (not a Skoda specialist) as they didn't want me to keep paying them for work done on a car I had only had 2 weeks which was really good of them. The mechanic mentioned that they may also not have done the cambelt correctly, or could have damaged something whilst doing this. At this point I become worried and could not trust the car, or the garage I bought from to fix it, so asked for my money back and returned the car which they were happy to do! I'm now in the process of buying a newer Skoda Rapid Spaceback from a Skoda Main dealer.
    1 point
  38. @BigJase88 No idea if she consulted you or not. You have 3 other countries in the UK you could try living in and see how they dictate what you can do or not do.
    1 point
  39. I've had mine since start of September - 2017 facelift VRS TDI 5 door in Meteor Grey with black pack plus and pan roof. The colour, black pack plus & pan roof were all a must have for me. Unfortunately this restricted the choice to just 1 in the country at a Skoda dealership which luckily turned out to be a good one. Originally set out to get a wagon but saw this and loved it. 3 years old and unmarked. Skoda are currently doing 2 years warranty, 2 free services, 2 years MOT cover & 2 years breakdown cover so a no brainer.
    1 point
  40. - Demon Foam - Rinse - Turtlewax Ceramic Wash and Wax - Rinse - Dry - Autoglym Super Resin polish - Buff - Chrome Northwest Embellish quick detailer - Buff - Turtlewax Ceramic Spray Coat - Buff - Admire
    1 point
  41. It's gone now, but this was my favourite: Some more:
    1 point
  42. Still detailing mine, inside, outside, around the engine bay. Have had lots of time to do it, as I am self employed and have been off furloughed. Not much work has come back still, so gave the car a good wax early one morning last week before the sun came up. This pensioner still likes to wax on, wax off.
    1 point


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