Leaderboard

Couple of recent photos taken with the roofbox fitted, ready to swallow up all the gear we 'need' for our family trips

big brain time...

And…. Finally. Coilovers and brake kit install. Needs to set up properly but this is kinda off a endless project so… oem wheels? Forget it. Must use some 5mm spacers to clear this right. Overall pretty satisfied with the brakes. Less unsprung weight, feels “playful” Rubs a little on certain situations but as I said. Still needs to weight/corner balance the car. parts bilstein B16 coil kit. (A1 8x / polo Gti 6R) powerflex upper strut mounts vw shock bearing 034 motorsport spacer 5mm racingline VWR65P1GT brake kit Goodridge rear brake line

I prepared a video about how the car performs on a day like this. Today was over 35ºC. This is a fast road. (120Km/h limit) I tried to keep my speed as fast as possible and tried to keep up with the traffic. Limiting factors are, traffic, overheating and max speed limit. Normally the temp sits at first line from the bottom. When going uphill, it quickly climbs. When it reaches flat position, I tried to keep it there. So no more gas even if it can go faster. Details about the car: - 1993 Skoda Forman LX (I'm owner from January. Multiple previous owners. Unknown milage. I found an old bill when working inside the car. That indicates 160K Km dated 2004) Current mileage just over 100K. The car runs on LPG. - 80ºC new Vernet thermostat - Calorstat by Vernet 68-82 new thermal switch. (Installed for summer, the car had 87-92 before) - New magneti-marelli radiator. - Fuchs Ethylene glycol based blue antifreeze with %50 distilled water. (The car had murky coolant which had -10ºC measured capacity when I got it. Flushed twice with distilled water and used 50/50 with the same brand ever since) - Castrol GTX UltraClean 10W40 Semi-synthetic motor oil. New. - Bosch 165959455G VW six blade fan motor with Felicia full fan cover 6U0121207. (Direct connection to battery. Runs after full stop) - VW Vento 5.5" steel rims with 175/70 R13 summer tires. - Unknown gearbox ratios. - Unknown status of water pump. - New headgasket. Details about video: - 30 min. trip in a fast road. - Two people in the car. - ABS light is connected to the fan. - All windows are closed after short time from the beginning. - The car is on gasoline in the first part. When returning, I switched to LPG on the road. After 16 min. the car is acting weird and shaking for a short duration. That's gasoline to LPG transition. Leftover gasoline in the carburetor makes a too rich mixture. Timecode: - 00:00~01:10 40Km/h to 80Km/h acceleration. - 01:10~04:00 Hill climb 80Km/h - 04:00~05:30 Downhill idle 100Km/h - 05:30~06:20 Downhill full throttle to 120Km/h - 06:20~7:40 slight up&down. Fast. 100Km/h - 07:40~9:00 hill climb with 80Km/h - 09:00~10:10 slight down, slight up 80Km/h - 10:10~13:30 long climb with 80Km/h HIGH TEMP! - 14:00~16:00 turn back - 16:00~17:30 switch to LPG (Down to normal temp again) - 17:30~20:00 downhill - 20:00~20:30 bridge cross - 20:30~21:50 steep hill climb 70Km/h High Temp again. - 21:50~22:50 steep downhill not enough to cool down - 22:50~26:00 hill climb start with already hot engine. speed down to 60Km/h - 26:00~26:45 Finish. Could you please tell me what you think about generally everything that is out of ordinary? I had no cars before so I don't know how a 40kW car performs or how a Favorit performs. What do you think about the cooling system?

install the "plantnet" app. take a pic in the app, and it will identify it by leaf/bark/ fruit etc. really handy when your 6yr old needs to know everything!!!

I was once told by a dealer that for a particular model, target was only 1 per quarter, I think it was the Rapid. Probably a similar thing with Scala in they don’t need to sell many so if already reached negligible quota aren’t interested. Rather encourages people to go to car broker or car wow rather than visit nearest dealer and not be valued as a potential customer.

I can certainly take some for you when he's back for you mate, nothing left of it police wise just a lot of holes and trace of the police stickers on rear windows, wouldn't mind seeing it in its hay day, love detail you've gone into on yours glad i found the post👍

Can you please re-take this picture with that bit clean or photoshop the dust out or use the duster on that bit

-1.54 degrees of camber

Well... I don't know if the gearbox was replaced before. If so, the mechanics here usually fix everything plug&play type. I know, the same gearbox has different ratios for different vehicles. Mine could be any of them. 4th gear does 80Km/h under 3000rpm. Maybe the tachometer is inaccurate. I agree with you. Good to hear that too. So I can eliminate another factor. Must have guessed that. Smartphones act like this too. So I have tried these suggestions and had some success. I've almost completely disassembled the cooling system already. There was the metal pipe at the bottom that I didn't touch. I've removed that too but it was clean. No debris came out. I've also bought a brand new Vernet 80ºC thermostat too. Old one was probably a random brand. Result was no change in cooling performance. Mixture ratio adjustment had the most positive effect on cooling so far. That was a great help! You were right. Mixture was lean. Also some resources about LPG setup was completely BS. It's like everything I've learned about those resources were wrong. That was a great letdown. I've felt angry,sad but happy at the same time. I've readjusted the mixture, but this time from British and German resources. Without precision tools. It's impossible to make it perfect. I know. But even with this setting I've achieved, engine does not stall at high speeds, there is noticeable cooling improvement, engine feels slightly more powerful especially at acceleration from full stop. LPG consumption is still the same. The new resources for LPG setting: http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/tuning-open-loop.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X_b0qmk0d4 Why are you not going to a professional shop to make the LPG setting? you ask right? Believe me, It's hard to find the right people to get things right. A lot people are complaining about LPG shop adjustments. For LPG shop, this is a trash job. Time consuming to adjust and not worth their time they think. On cars with ECU, LPG settings are programmed. They are monitored by on board computers. If anything goes wrong that means $$$ to the shop. Open loop system solely depends on suction. Even a minor leak from filter box will change the mix ratio. To make things proper and reliable I need a lambda and/or exhaust temp sensor on dashboard. For now, new settings are satisfactory. I wanted to install factory spec 80º thermostat and 82-87ºC thermo-switch but it's almost impossible to find 82-87 or 80-85 from reputable manufacturers. That's mostly because general application and demand here. General approach here about thermal setup of "thermally problematic" cars around here is seasonal set-ups. Summer setting parts are consist of 74º thermostat 82-68 sw. Winter setting is 88º thermostat and 87-92 sw. When you go to a parts shop, they ask you not the value but: "do you want a thermal switch for winter? or summer?" If you walk into a parts store in these hot summer days and ask for a 87-92 switch, It's not uncommon to hear things like: "Don't buy that one. It's winter switch! You will burn the engine! " So, in between values are somewhat extinct. @Thefeliciahacker , @KenONeill , @RicardoM Thanks for all the help. I wish to find a way to repay you somehow.

Hi @J.R.... The image linked below should help. They are widely spaced at the edges of the bore and slightly angled but definitely two per cylinder...

Another piece of original police equipment sourced and fitted. It's the steering column mounted PTT (push to talk) button, made by a company called Sepura. Its used in conjuction with a mic and when pushed it allows the driver to speak on the cars police radio. (the mic should also mount on the shroud where the small white square is in the picture) The original mounting holes were still in the steering column shroud and lined up perfectly with my replacement

Our Octavia was collected last Tuesday two weeks after placing the order. So far all is well. The tyres are relatively low-profile (225 45 R18) but the suspension design gives a limousine ride. Very quiet in both hybrid and e-drive, but the pedestrian warning 'squeak' is not very obvious. Fuel consumption is excellent: on a 29-mile drive it returned 104 mpg, on a 76-mile drive when the battery was down to 2% at the end it returned 91mpg. A 16-mile drive using battery alone used 60% of the battery power at a cost of £1.30. I'm changing to Octopus Go energy, once we have a SMETS2 smart meter, so I can charge between 00:30 and 4:30 at an off-peak rate of 5p per kWhr, so a 2/3 full battery would give around 20 miles for 65p. It charges using a 13-amp socket, but before ordering it and realising it could be charged without a wall box, I made enquiries and was annoyed on behalf of owners with bigger charge requirements that the grant is now only available if the vehicle can travel for at least 70 miles without any emissions. The many menus are logical and though during handover it made my head spin, a couple of hours ploughing through the options made it all clear. MySkoda works well, but it was a pain to set up. Only when I uninstalled and reinstalled the App did it work properly. It's much more useful than Skoda Connect in our Karoq, which I used once, because I can control charging and pre-heating the car from inside the house. Regenerative braking is also useful as I have it set to maximum, which as well as charging the battery, hold the car back on hills so a little interplay between accelerator and brake holds the corrrect speed, whilst approaching junctions the brakes are hardly required. Very pleased so far, particularly as we live in a very hilly part of the UK. Based on brimming the tank and keeping a spread sheet, our Karoq averaged only 31 mpg during the time we kept it, so all local motoring will now be pure electric.

I know what I want for Xmas! ... fire car.mp4

One of Britain's gold medal winning sailors (49er class?) today talking about how he'd had a dream before the start of the competition in which they'd gone home with the Gold. Didn't tell anyone about the dream until now, for fear of jinxing things. Fantastic quote to close... "In the dream it wasn't as close as that"

It is possible that it is from the plastic housing that the coolant sender sits in, they do fail from old age from time to time. The best plan as has been said is to get a pressure test of the system, which should show it's origin. Hope it helps, good luck.

that could he from anywhere tbh... i had a pinhole leak in the radiator of my last car (inshi7nia) that 3 mechanics and i, including a main dealer, failed to find for aaaages. it was big enough to let the coolant out, but it mostly evaporated away quick enough to be near impossible to spot. it could be the coolant header tank too, have been known to split. or any of the many hoses in the system. or your water pump if its been a while since last change..

There is no KZX gearbox on the Superb, there is however a KXZ. All manual gearboxes used on the Superb 2 are type 02Q, so it is possible any gearbox of that type could fit the bellhousing and mounts,. But it's not that simple once you start looking at internal construction. Each engine gets a unique set of gear ratios and final drive ratios, plus separate assignment for 4x4 versions where they exist. Up to the model year of your car only two gearbox codes are assigned to the 170 TDI, the KXZ you have and the earlier KNY. Both have the same gear ratios and final drive ratios and should be interchangeable. I don't have a later revision of the gearbox service manual handy, so I can't say if there are later 'boxes with the same gearset. I think I have them downloaded on another PC - I'll check later.

The equivalent to a woman’s hair grip. all of sudden they’re everywhere 😁

The plonker waiting to cross the road as I started my journey home this afternoon. He was stood at the road as I was a good 50 yards away with no other traffic around, and as I had just pulled out of our parking yard doing probably 10mph. He waited until I was about 5 yards away and staring at me, he decided to cross in right in front of me. I shouted at him saying he'd just had all effin day to cross and he shouted back that I should have indicated he could cross. Numpty. I don;t know what he was 'on'...... ............ feckin idiot. Good job it's not 'Purge day', or my Skoda front end would need a wash, Lol.

Thanks, you’d think someone who’d been working on cars, (hobby only) for 60-ish years, including installing radios, would be able to do this. But no! I did try this, and one side came out, but I must have put the other in slightly crookedly, as it didn’t work. I finally did it by sliding an even thinner feeler gauge on top of the proper tool to get it out.

Cherry Plums perhaps?? Cherry Plums Information, Recipes and Facts (specialtyproduce.com) Certain varieties apparently have a peach or apricot taste to them alongside the pluminess...

Here are some part numbers for you. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2005-252/1/133-133029/

You can use either ODBEleven Pro or VCDS and yes it does help especially on firmware 04xx versions.

Great granddad's Olympics ...

Thanks for this. Will get ordering.

That looks decent! I don’t know why they charge so much extra for black, it’s just a different colour anodising that’s all. I’m getting a petrol blue car which will have silver rails so I’m leaning towards silver which will be a better contrast to the darker paint and match the rails too. Black is definitely best on the VRS and lighter paint colours.

Positive and encouraging. That's my motto all the time too. @D.FYLAKTOS believe me or not but your signature has became an inspiration for me. I want to call my car "Trusty" too. That's not just a name. You earn it.

Hmmm………I’m not convinced - if that was true it’d stop much quicker.

That may just be the only/real problem. Make sure you find that current drain if you can measure one, otherwise any battery you fit is going to have its effectiveness and lifetime badly compromised. Quick and dirty parasitic current measurement - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA

You don't need WLAN for Android Auto to Work. Your phone logs in to your Skoda account. A USB connection to Android Auto provides the vehicle connectivity/feedback. The WLAN feature allows you to login in to the Skoda online services which have to purchase separately. This provides POI, traffic, weather etc. A quick search revealed other users having issues with the Pixel 4a and Android Auto.

No idea I'm afraid. The wiring for the rear wiper is pretty simple and the washer pump is the one for the front wash but used in reverse. It'll be similar to this (maybe different colours depending on year): Not sure what signals the BCM uses to control the wiper/washer but maybe take a look with a multimeter when you do the output test and when you the wiper stalk? Do you have any other faults? - I think you've replaced the ignition switch? - Did the rear licence plate lights error get cleared? - What about 00323 - Vehicle Inclination Sensor (G384) ?

Me as well cause our lpg installer was so knowledgeable he even said that the felly has hydraulic valves (self adjusting) he cant tune lpg for **** Wideband retrofit install I reckon the easiest way to tune Knowing something is more dangerous than knowing nothing. You could try online retailers for example autodoc obviously it doesn't make financial sense for just a thermostat and thermo switch but it surely makes sense for a fair amount of spare parts and you will save the most buying on Monday

I think is it at least 3 years so you should be covered.

If the measuring blocks show the switch is working and the output tests let you activate the washer, it feels like everything should work... I think the rear wiper coding is in byte 21, yours looks to be 6D which seems sensible enough - assuming I can count The only thing that springs to mind is a dodgy boot switch or something like that...

Let me know your VIN on PM and I will list options you have.

Button to "0" kills all lights fully, not what the OP wanted, you can't turn the rears off separately, Time to trade in child with one less inquisitive or connect them to a dynamo to charge daddy's flat battery...

Ah yes! I didn't want to complicate things by mentioning that the steering wheel controls should work too - plus I didn't know if was left or right! Glad you found it and its working for you.

The stop and start is there for one reason,the environment.

Meteor grey VRS with aftermarket wheels and painted callipers 😁😍

My English...it is no good yes??? What I meant to say was lack of traction.

Given the amount you're topping up, if coolant is getting into the oil, I'd expect a white mayonnaise like substance to be visible on the dipstick and oil filler cap. If the oil still looks like oil, it's much more likely to be the common coolant pump or regulator housing issues and it's just a coolant leak. Have you got the car booked in for investigation and repair?

I have a thing for Lemforder.... Wishbones Ball joints Top mounts with bearings Dog bone (w/new bolts) Just waiting on the new suspension and, hopefully, it'll stop sounding like a knackered bed.

I've had this happen twice, first time it was a faulty parking sensor and second time it was a faulty ABS wheel speed sensor. You need a fault code scan (with e.g. VCDS) to know what the cause is.

About time this was done, some topics appear to be vehicle for some members political bias.

Picture of the cars calibrated Speedo, only found fitted on the police cars.

Hi, I have a 2014 Vrs so same light unit, I had issues last year. It was at night I was going slowly due to the heavy rain. I did brake but too late to prevent hitting an extremely badly flooded dip there was what seemed like a hught water fountain on the left hand side fo the car. I think the culvert under the bridge was blocked. I did report it to the council. It was also not helped as I was blinded for a small time by a badly adjusted headlamp on a van which appeared over the top of the dip and also prevented me moving to the apex and slighty toward the other side of the road where I could see road rather than puddle! Shortly afterwards (couple of miles) I got a warning about the left DRL. Sorry cannot recall the message, think it was something about a short. The LED was flickering and the brightness was all over the place bright then dim bright again. Then next day I could see some water drops within the headlamp unit. In the end it required a replacement controller which is under the light unit. It was full of water! The controller has a rubber seal, where it fits into the headlamp unit, but I suspect the force of the water forced its way through that. Why a headlamp unit has an electronic controller on the base is something I don't really understand as any water will naturally end up there. The controller was about 120 pounds plus time to remove and replace bumper. Sorry I can't give overall cost as I got them to do an oil change at the same time. It was a bit ahead of schedule, but seems a good idea while the car was on the ramp. So it is possible that it might be the control unit that is poorly? If so somewhat less costly. Clearly the light is not a "sealed" unit! The receipt described the controller as Genuine Skoda Power Module and a reference number 4G0907697D (can't guantee this is correct) But your issue could be something else! Still it might be worth asking them if it could be the controller?

Ok, so ive decided to turn my estate into a van for a few reasons: 1. Ill be able to do all the stripping and welding myself and i have a friend who is willing to respray her as a swap for a website. 2. Over the 6 months ive had her ive had the rear seats down and the back filled up probably a good 75% of the time. 3. It would just be so cool and unique. Im not aware if anyone has done this before, if any of you know any different please feel free to share. This conversion may happen over the next few months as i can do bits and pieces while im still driving the ca starting with stripping the rear of the car back to the bare bones. Attached is a very rough photoshop retouch to show you what i have in mind. I may also have her on air bag suspension when i have the funds as ive fitted this before to anotehr car which will save me the fitting costs. Let me know what you all think.