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Squirrel watching the above

I'm thinking of doing this with a debit card in M&S now. Great idea People of the North West are such shining beacons of hope...

Ah, so no "RECOND" option on your CTEK. Bottom line, as usual "needs must" if you can't get this battery into a useable condition, then you might not have an easy option, running the car for a short period in terms of days, is not going to cause a big issue, but, do prioritise getting this done as it should improve the service life of the new battery.

£54 completely wasted.

Was that for something to do whilst they get new stock in? (How many pieces)

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

Raided Kev for one of his Chickens again....

I add myself also here ... car is brilliant. Made a round-trip of south east europe of 3200km only two days after getting the car delivered and I actually started learning the ropes as I went 🙂 And fairly economical as well, returned an average of 12/13 km/lt (say, 7 to 8 l/100km), considering not exactly economy run speeds ... There is still loads more to go .. but so far all good. I was shocked and horrified to learn it had its first 'service' done at 30K km ... modern engines oh well. I booked it for a check regardless, while I need to select a 'new' VCDS from Gendan, mine which I got from them 10 years ago became outdated (like most things, alas, I am still struggling without CDs 🤪). Will continue reading and reading ....

The phone operator knew what was coming and the cashier didn't even look up as it was staged. All imho of course

That should not be an issue - especially if your replacement is another EFB. Make sure you do get it adapted correctly asap though.

@cheezemonkhai i think this could do with a relocation to the Roadside hotel? feels like it would be better suited there. as to whats different? okay... Ukraine has been invaded by a nuclear power with a do trine thats states they may use nuclear force if attacked on home soil by any nation, but in particular NATO. thus, a proxy war is a safer - who knows what Putin could do if he really did feel threatened- and cheaper option for "The West" to break the Russian military strength. thus the UK/US et al wont take any direct actions against Russia. The UK/US effectively created the state of Israel and keep the region on a knife edge of instability because its good for business. therefore they will defend Israel to the end. especially against Iran because of the revolution there back in the 70s that kicked them out and removed the US influence on their policies. so, as a result strikes on Iranian targets are fine, because its only iran - nuclear ambitions but guaranteed the US/UK know exactly what they have and what they can do, so the risk is much lower. and when its in defence of Israel, of course they will take whatever action they need to in order to protect their special little project..

Happy to report that the door sealing worked flawlessly, replaced all the fixings with new ones, going to do the other side while the weather is nice, a bit of preventative maintenance. My daughter sent me an early (2 years in fact) 50th birthday present, it matches her number plate and my sons too… 😍 I would never buy a personal number plate, so it was a nice surprise, I put some LED number plate lights in at the same time. Russell Wilkes: RW05 KES Cleo Wilkes: CW05 KES Lucas Wilkes: LW05 KES

So yeah, managed to fix it. It was the mid exhaust hanger mount. The mount itself was possibly screwed with some tension and everytime the exhaust was moving a bit it was initiating this rattle, constantly, which was driving me nuts. So under the car i go and since it's low you will understand it's a pain. Moved the exhaust vigorously by hand and confirmed that was the issue. So i backed off the 13mm bolt holding the bracket and let it relax then tightened it again and NO MORE RATTLE.

Thanks all. 👍🏻

Smashing Bluebells at Gunby Hall today..........

No tea for me tonight either. Still recovering from a Pub Sunday roast lunch. Triple meat roast (Beef, Pork & Lamb) with all the trimmings followed by 3 scoop Gelato.

I'd take that over the real one

Flushed with recent success using the wealth of information on this site, I've fitted 2 rear usb sockets. I got the car in March, and I started this in May, so it's taken a little while, but I ordered various parts in different attempts. Once I decided to go for the kit from AliExpress, and got all the parts it only took 10 mins to change over.

Interesting, thank you. I had seen the VW announcements and was thinking that an Octavia PHEV with 60 mile range would be ideal.

My Son had an issue with his Dacia Stepside when the wipers stopped working. You can usually get just the motor but not for Dacia. It had to be the complete wiper assembly costing £400 from a main dealer. I tried everywhere for a lesser fix which I could do myself but the same answer came back from everyone - Main dealer part only. Typical a year later there are now specialists which can supply a replacement motor for £50. As Stonekeeper says all manufacturers have issues. Its a total luck of the draw. I never had half the problems with the 2nd hand cars I used to own. No more new ones for me, they end up costing way too much when you are locked into main dealer warranty.

Did you swap your cable as per your other post? If so then try 31347.

Great win for Ross County against Glasgow Rangers, their first win against them, ever !

You say that you left the car locked and it had unlocked itself - maybe the central locking has become faulty, and has been cycling unlock>lock etc due to a wiring problem - that would "sort out" a weak/older battery and maybe even a new one - though that is just a thought/suggestion, nothing more. Do you have enough time to run that CTEK charger on a "restoration" or whatever it is called charging program, if so try that and it might just recover that battery enough for it to survive if "topped up" while not in use. I hardly ever use my old 2010 Audi S4, and so it lives connected to a CTEK in the garage - it has an AGM battery which I replaced at just over 10 year old point, just because I didn't fancy paying a high price for a battery when getting caught out when away from home. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has an EFB by Exide, it is still extremely "fit" after 8.5 years/48,000miles - though it does get a "restoration" recharge once a year and during Covid it was supported with another CTEK in the garage. I think that I've read that Moll have slipped off the supplier's list to at least VW Group as their quality/reliability had dropped off - my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had a Moll and that lasted 1 years, but that was pre Auto Stop/Start and was maybe a "better quality period" for Moll. Edit:- I'm sure that I've read of this happening to someone in the recent past, ie a lightly used car not getting left with battery support, then used on some long runs - then when back home, let down by state of charge of battery. In case you did not consider this, I have a mini DVM plugged into the "ciggy lighter" socket, and can see that even on a long run, or even just a 10 mile run, if you don't brake a lot etc, the battery charging will drop off to being "just enough" and so at journey end, even at times auto Stop/Start will be disabled, so what I'm suggesting is, don't consider that things are "what they used to be", ie long journey means battery is fully charged, nowadays, that is not the plan.

AGM life and performance is superior to EFB, but will cost more. You will definitely need to get adaptation done if changing battery type to AGM - even if the replacement battery is exactly the same as original, you should still get the adaptation done, as it is probable that the smart alternator control unit settings will have altered to cope with any battery errors detected. Not all battery suppliers have the equipment (or are even aware of the need) to do the adaptation - ensure that you ask - walk away if they say it's not necessary.

Dunno, but some of these sensors are active/polarised, I seem to remember. Experiment if you're keen.

Yep they both charge similar via the online booking too, Inverness was more expensive than Salisbury with £200 more for cambelt!

Good morning, that is probably the original battery and it is most likely that it has failed. Prior to this failure, was the idle stop-start working as normal? Replacement battery will require adaptation (coding) - this really should be done even if replacement is exactly same spec and chemistry type as original. You will require EFB battery as a minimum.

So I got a Yuasa 3000 which is 71ah 680A EN 3 years warranty from GFS Parts in East Grinstead £87.00 (10%off) this was the nearest battery I could get yesterday that matched the spec of the battery I have which is a Varta 70ah 680A EN.

I'd heard of the game and must have subliminally seen the robot suit thingies somewhere, I guess. The middle episodes are probably the weakest (but still great fun) and the end is fantastic. I love the retro flashback stuff. They have nailed the look of this show Apparently there is no word on a second season yet, but the overwhelmingly positive response seems to suggest that they will have to make one. I can't imagine it's a cheap show to make, though.

No you have it wrong, Aviva are Halfords insurer and they paid the owner what they valued the car at. He needs to have a frank discussion with them and give them proof that the car was or is worth more than that, I had to do when my car was written off for me as the insurers failed to take into account the significance of the L&K model and just valued mine as a normal Superb. The other problem is that the other cars that the Alfa hit, their insurers filed a claim against the Alfa owners insurance as the only info that they had it seems was the Alfa registration number? Running that through the insurance database would reveal who the car was insured with and hence the claims were made against his insurer rather than Aviva. Once a claim has been filed, regardless of if it was paid out, it seems that it remains on your record for 5 years and will affect your premiums until that 5 years is up. I have the same issue with damage being done to my old car by a car wash machine going rogue. The owners of the machine paid up, but as my insurance were informed of a possible claim being made against them, entered it onto the database and now my insurance is costing me more even it was recorded as no actual claim being made. It seems that insurance is legal robbery after all and I did start a thread about on here a while ago.

Halfords battery, 4 year warranty, can't argue with that and "if" they do fail which is very rare, they swap them no questions asked. Halfords also supply Yuasa, those have a 5 year warranty.

I think there is some confusion going on here with the OP title and the story. Aviva, Halford's insurer paid The claim. it says so in the story. The owner of the car should have submitted a bill to Halfords for his Car hire etc for them to pass on to their insurance Company Aviva. He is a third party in that claim. The puncture cost is because he didn't add tyre cover to his car rental, which he could have done and it would have saved the bill and the extra cost for the cover would be in his invoice as a third party claim on Halford's Aviva policy. After that somehow the Claim must have been recorded on the insurance Database against the vehicles History as a claim by the insured. It will all have probably been resolved by now as it says at the end of the story. But saying all was well in the end doesn't sell copy as they say.

There is also Toolstation very similar to Screwfix, worth comparing prices.

Link to new brochure 10th April 2024 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/5782ef00-768c-43df-8faf-51cba9730287

Just did this one myself. As above cigarette socket was a pain to remove. Kit fits well, only two observations, the biggest is the difference in colour, it bugs me like mad. Kit is black and car is a dark greyish colour. Other than that the bottom two torx screws have to be left off as the insert is so well secured can't get it out to fit them. It's still held well though as top ones go in fine and clips in also.

I took this recently one evening. 10x zoom on my Samsung phone and then a further digital zoom (totalling around 20x zoom I would estimate), so that's the excuses out of the way. Impressive catch though (the bird, not the photo)

The best the UK managed during the recent celestial obfuscation

Mine have now arrived. Will be up for sale once install is complete.

They received training from whoever on behalf of their Employers. Which tells a tale about them. Dealerships downloading info on the radio as far as station listened to was a step to far of information gathering. Also Scotland biggest motor putting through finance checks or applications when the customer did not want finance came back to bight them in their butt. Then there less than secure IT.

878 owned in the family since new and still going strong in Rye, East Sussex.

Got number 032 bought in september 23 from a garage in penrith now in scotland 3rd owner

#542 since 2019. Currently on 81k

Owner of number 003. I have been since 2014. Cheers 👌

It's interesting to see that owners of standard cars tend to keep them much longer than owners of modified ones. I think that applies to all makes and models. I know someone that purchased a Mk2 VW Golf GTi new in August 1991 and still has it today. It was their only car all that time. Perhaps owners of modified ones are never satisfied with the car once modified, perhaps the mods didn't fulfil the expectation, or created other, unexpected, traits. Everything is a trade off. Certainly, once cars are regarded as classics, typically, the closer to standard the more desirable.

The Haldex was frustrating as had it serviced by an independent in the summer(he said that it didn't look like the gunk had ever been cleaned out even though it had oil changes, seems to get overlooked a fair bit) wish I replaced the pump then. I hope I don't have a water pump failure so will preempt it and get it changed I think. Yours looks great! I get that the impatience, I keep putting it off due to time but have a huge pile of parts in the living room so have to get it sorted now besides it feels very squishy now so I expect the current shocks are done or not in great shape. I've probably gone over the top replacing pretty much all parts associated. My brakes feel a touch weird since changing discs, pads, fluid, hoses. Getting them relooked at, suspect it may be the pads or discs.