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Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

Not true - all versions of the Mk3.5 vRS came with 18” Gemini wheels as standard. Both 230ps and 245ps variants also had 340mm front brakes - the difference is that the 245 has 310mm vented rear, rather than 272mm solid. The easiest way to tell a 230 vs a 245 is to take a look at the rear brakes. The interior stitching on the 230 is also white, whereas the 245 is red - this is probably the most useful when looking at an advert. You can also check the door sticker for the engine code. 230ps models will be CHHA or DKTA, whereas 245ps will be DLBA, DHGA or DKTB. The DKTA and DKTB variants are Euro 6 with the GPF. You’ll find people claiming that the 245 has black exhaust tips - this isn’t true. They were, technically, meant to, but a lot of them didn’t. The 230 was phased out around 2018, but build dates and dealer stock means some do exist with later registrations. You want to get the 245. The extra power is irrelevant, along with the rear brakes - but you want it for the LSD and DQ381. Nothing wrong with the 250, but the 7-speed ratios are just that bit more friendly. The LSD, frankly, makes the car what it is. You’ll find that the prices are pretty much the same - whether it’s a 230, 245, 245 Challenge or whatever. The base build spec of both cars was the same - that’s how my 2020 car has ACC, the digi dash and £600 worth of black paint on the spoiler, but manual folding mirrors and no heated seats. If you want to do some research on the 230 versus the 245, you can compare the GTI to the GTI PP. It’s the same thing. There are lots and lots of posts about this - just use the search function.

Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

The system can trigger unexpectedly and can be quite sensitive.Two examples from my own experience / one annoying and one superb. As I exit my driveway, the path dips toward the road causing the front of the Car to drop. At any speed over a few mph it will see the road as a danger and Brake. Last year I was waiting at a Mini Roundabout for an opportunity to go straight across. There was car crossing from my right and a car waiting on the road from the left. The car on the right passed me and there was no further traffic so I looked over at the car on the other side. It started to move , there were no indicators to show that it was turning right so I assumed that it was going straight on. So I started to slowly move straight ahead. Then the Car suddenly did a u turn and crossed in front of my Car. The autonomous brake sensed it and slammed on the anchors and we stopped dead.There was no contact between the cars but it was close. The Car in front then shot off down the road.All caught on my Dashcam. I spoke to a Road Traffic Officer some days later and he said as described it was a 'Baiting' technique for crash for cash , he said that if it wasn't for the fact that I was going so slow (4mph on the dashcam) and the Braking that I would be involved in an accident that would have been deemed to be my fault. Automatic Emergency Braking does have its uses.

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

That'll be one person in this thread... 🤣

Carry one of these in the boot

Surely it doesn't really matter either way if you treat zero as zero... Which is what most sensible people do

Nothing wrong with 0 % / Zero miles range meaning 0% left and Zero miles possible IMO. Actually 'Simply Clever' to save people from acting stupidly and pushing on regardless because they read or watched somebody telling them how far you can go beyond. #'One step beyond' Madness.

Little Donkey meets the basic criteria, and tbh an EV is what really suits my needs now.

You're being bent over. For some bizarre reason Skoda's pricing changes by vehicle age. At my local dealer, which seems mid-priced, a fluid change on a 2-year-old car costs £65. The same fluid change on a 4-year-old car costs £91. So a 40% premium for exactly the same job on exactly the same car. Find yourself an indy to do it.

The dealer I use was so mortified by me refusing the 2yr brake fluid change that they did it anyway FOC. They also replaced the a/c compressor under warranty as it was noisy, so I didn;t get asked about having it regassed. The new one is just as noisy mechanically but doesn't screech (which I think may have just been the gas being low), and the one on the courtesy car (same car as ours) was noisy too. Our Ateca and Kamiq have silent a/c. Anyway, it's going in next week for its 4yr service and I was contacted today and asked about having them done for the bargain price of £199. Gulp. On it's own they said they'd do the brake fluid for £80 instead of the normal £100. Where on earth do these price come from - £100 to change the brake fluid seems insane! It also really hacks me off that the car has All In, and yet All In is anything but!

So i did 120 miles for £3. Then i put in £7 charging. Then another £19 and have done 170 miles. Now at 98%. Showing 175 mile range but in my 160 miles to get home i will put in a £5 charge on the way. So £34 for 330 miles and there will be maybe 30 miles range once home. No charging issues with last 2 chsrges @ 65 pence and 55 pence a kWh. Real life EV travel like this maybe half the time, or more when using familiar charging places. When it is crap experiences is often when in a hurry ,or during bad weather and when i lesst want the hsssle. A 300 mile plus range and home charging is obviously more sensible than a low range BEV. EDIT. Stopped for dogs to stretch legs, plugged in for 5 minutes and put in 4 kWh. £2.69. Got home with 30 miles range. (Average speed including stop 50 mph. Half was Motorway.)

Lots of work done last few days Pics out of order a bit but: Engine bay cleaned down, new coolant bottle on, darkside braided clutch line on. New caliper sanded, primed and painted Came out very well for once. Whiteline rear anti roll bar off, keeping it for the SDi. H&R bar is non adjustable, but powder coating seems fantastic on it vs the whiteline, have to say the clamps for the bushes were a bit of a nightmare to install. Bits of rust treated and painted up. Standard dual mass 4pc kit gone one, new slave cylinder, bolted up lovely Foreshadowing Swapped out the shifter for the one out of the SDi originally, as it was in better shape than the one in my car, in spite of being 11 years older than the car, and having more miles. no matter what I did to it, I could never get it to feel as tight as I wanted it to. Shifters are different but bolt up the same, otherwise fit and work the same, figure I can get a new bush for the SDi shifter and be golden. Had solid shifter bracket bushes and was able to work my solid cable end bushes on the 6 speed. It works, and it feels fantastic. New bleeder for the clutch also, it's bled up perfect, and feels brilliant so far. Brakes all bled fine etc Starter connector is different, easy to swap them considering I had both cars to hand. Currently stuck waiting for hardpipes, standard boost pipe no longer fits because the 6 speed is that much bigger, no way of working it and I did try. Also found a pinhole in my downpipe Least it's not split fully at the welds. Seeing if I can just get a replacement top piece vs welding it, again. Changed the gear oil on the box too. And pulled the vrsdi asunder for its subframe. Painting the subframe from the monte became a mess, it will not stick, and paint stripper just turned it into a sticky gooey mess, horrible. Plus is it'll be back on its caster increase bushes, and I get my wishbone ducts back. Not far from being done But still a bit left to do. Couple other trick things, least I have time to sort some of them given it's gonna be down for a while longer. Forget if I ever did a modlist, but I'll do one up after this. Power will be whatever the injectors are capable of, but cross that bridge when it comes to it.

It looks something like this.

I've just done it, 7mins after turning the engine off. The oil is about 3/4 up within the range it's supposed to be. So now I'm just concerned about the measurement at cold, but perhaps I shouldn't be as the manual makes no reference to this? Thanks for all your advice so far.

How soon after stopping the engine did you check the level and was the car on level ground? If you did it too quick there could be too much in. I would be worried if my reading was over max when cold whatever the instructions on filling it were. Run the engine until at temp, park on level ground, wait at least 5 min then check the level. If it is still more than 1mm or 2 above max i would be looking for a way to get some out 1:The danger is that if you overfill it hot. when you check it cold the level could read lower 2: It should be lower when cold because liquids expand when heated. The confusion in all this is the drain down factor. Overnight a lot more drains down than in 5 minutes so the manufacturer wants the parts lubricated and below the max as a goal. Too much oil can be as bad as too little. Filling to max is not necessary the reading needs to be "Between" under the circumstance explained in the handbook that's the point of the dipstick and the instructions. It will say check the level is between and don't go over max it doesn't say check the level and fill to the max.

Why? Can they not use degreaser and a hose? Id do the same if I were you. Just wash engine bay with spray degreaser and water at car wash close to garage. No need for steam clean

Opening the bonnet can cancel the warning for 62 miles / 100 km.

Opening the hood will temporarily cancel the low oil warning even if nothing is added. You say oil level 'seems fine' but whereabouts between the dipstick marks is it? If the warnings persists while oil level is fully at the max. level mark. it is probably a faulty sensor. Good practice to regularly check all fluid levels manually - not rely on warning indicators.

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

As above, they started showing up from MY19 onwards, with the 280/272 Superb. Though in some markets, they continued to get the DQ250 for a few more years. DQ250 is DSG-6 wet clutch. DQ381 is DSG-7 wet clutch

I would have thought if the error was because of GPS spoofing, you'd have the same error whether you're using the phone GPS or the car. I know when sailing in the North West of Scotland near a NATO exercise I got the same position on my chart plotter, my phone And my tablet - positioned 500 yards away in the middle of an island

Looking at the fitting instructions for the brink towbar as an example. The cross member can be fitted to the side beams in two optional place depending upon Octavia and superb models, the superb mounting bolts are lower, could that possibly be the error. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/Thule_Brink/4054470.pdf If you get underneath and have a look it may be possible to see for yourself?

Model Y only did 19 miles in the same test

I still think it is foolish to allow your battery to get that low in the first place just to avoid spashing a little cash on public charging to give that extra margin of safety. Just the other day there was an incident on a local road that resulted in a 32 mile diversion so if caught in that you would have got stuck.

Finally got a roll of 35mm film developed. My mate's Corsa made an excellent subject.

My recent home charge to 100% gave a result of 100%/274 miles. The miles seems to be creeping up. I suspect this is a combination of the car intelligently monitoring my driving style (I'm now getting an average 3.9/4.0 mi/kWh) and perhaps the battery needs some time to settle down into my charging routine. Anything else?

Hi guys, I'm an old boyracer living in Coventry who back in the day had a 306 GTi6, a BMW 540i and then a Megane 225 before spending the last 6 years driving a diesel Mondeo but now I've taken the plunge and bought a 2015 Octavia VRS which has put a smile back on my face (even thought I am tending to drive it in eco most of the time). As someone who was a teenager in the 80's I am still finding the S word problematic when I talk about the car, hopefully will pass soon though most people these days don't remember those days where the worst social faux pas was that your parents drove a Skoda (mine didnt, but I regularly reeled off all the jokes to another kid at school whos mum had a Favorit) Just going through the process of fitting a dashcam and found that lovely quirk that the cigarette lighter power stays on all the time, so using the forums to help me hard wire to the fuse box to avoid running the battery flat.

It should do. If the car doesn’t know what the front wheels are doing, it won’t let you engage park pilot properly, etc.

Find a competent workshop... the ABS sensor is one of two components that measure wheel speed. The sensor is located at the wheel bearing where the ABS disc is integrated. In such cases, a diagnostic drive is performed to check the sensors and avoid replacing parts haphazardly.

Ok, thank you for the replies, I shall try the procedure a few more times!

Turn the steering wheel full lock, so that the TRE is outside the wheel arch. Use a long spanner and gently tap the other end with a mallet. HTH. Thanks. AG Falco

Yes, it does indeed need replacing; in order for you to measure the voltage, you had to remove the battery from the key fob, so therefore it was an open circuit, and as such, it should be reading somewhere in the region of 3.3V for a normal, healthy battery.

Hello there, Recently purchased a 2011 Roomster HTP to replace my beloved Berlingo. Looking forward to lots of trouble free motoring, but always good to know of an owners club/forum for any issues/questions. Regards, Tony M

I believe that if you register a VIN at skoda-parts.com you can subsequently be offered only parts that suit that VIN. Haven't tried it myself, but it sounds handy if it works. Give it a try. Typically the info on the boot sticker only gives rear brake PR code, not front.

Update, problem solved. The garage had a straw to clutch at but it didn't feel relevant. I passed on above suggestions and getting the ECU checked over first seemed the sensible thing to do. Updated software and reflashed to latest version. Came back previous MAP had a fault code removed for oil. The car should've been been showing a glow plug warning on the dash. 2 oil pressure switches replaced and the problem appears to have gone. Thanks everyone for the time and consideration For anyone else with a no fault code showing, perhaps get the ECU checked out, not cheap but at least you should find where you're starting point is if someone's messed around with it.

You have probably misdiagnosed the issue. The Octavia mk4 has know issue with ABS sensor rings disintegrating on the rear wheel hubs. So check the integrity of the ABS ring.

Sorry, I don’t understand why you have to wait for registration docs. 🤔 The VIN won’t change with the registration docs and that’s the only (and reliable) input that your local dealer needs to give you the complete list of PR codes. 🤷‍♂️

Does the warning indicator stay off if you top up the oil to the Max. mark? If so, just keep the level at that, as it's possibly not worth the expense of replacing the sensor.

Where is the oil level when the engine is at normal operating temp and stopped a few minutes , 4 or 5. Compared to when all in the sump and cold. The owners manual way is a hot check for every engine but 1. The 1.2 44k engine with 2.8 litre capacity.

We've got a red Poppy in a pot on the patio. Nice surprise to see it bloom a pink Poppy today: It's ever so delicate, so I'm not expecting it to last the day. Gaz PS: While I'm at it, I went to Manor Gardens in Bexhill yesterday. It's only a small place, an acre perhaps, but it's a bit of an oasis with some lovely bird song and plants. Doesn't come out so well on camera, but these roses were a stunning lilac, almost glowing: Whole bed of 'em! G

How about trying the direct approach with your insurance company? Send them two images of your vehicle, 1 of the VIN plate, the 2nd of your rear axle as proof it is 2WD only.

There can be many reasons why a car AC system has lost its fridge gas, from stone strike to the exposed front condenser to poor build quality of the evaporator which is inside the dashboard are - or even failure of the system pressure sensor - VW Group have a long history of revising this part to improve it, though I'd think that pressure sensor failure/leaking is more of an industry wide issue than just VW Group. Guessing is really not the way forward, your car's AC system needs to get checked over by a proper car HVAC operator - then repaired as necessary. Getting your local Skoda workshop to do this is one way to maybe benefit from your warranty covering the costs - but maybe not the best plan for a quick and proper fix.

@NICK87 Even if you are safe what about other road users, like cyclists or bikers if you lose lots of oil while driving or even worse diesel? How much oil or diesel are you seeing?

Pick up my new (to me) 2017 Kodiaq on Saturday. Trawling through the forum for some good info and help from everybody. Cheers

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.