StevesTruck

Love Harry's videos, the thing that makes them so different is his delivery. He's not showing the car or his lifestyle off, it's like his inviting you in and sharing his enjoyment of the car with you.

MicMac is spot on with that. It's almost always going to be a poor solder joint in the dash cluster. Don't swap it for another cluster though because it contains the immobiliser data. The other bodge around is to put a chipped ECU on with an immobiliser delete.

There should be two seals that sit in the ends of the pipe, I find these go hard and brittle. The v bands are a compete **** to get on and sat right. What I did was put an airbag from my lockout kit on the other side of the heater matrix and used it to apply some pressure to push the matrix tight onto the hoses while I pushed the pipes the other way, put the v-band on and did it up. That way you only need 3 hands rather than 4.

The other benefit is it lets you transition between brake and accelerator faster, which is why circuit racers use a left foot brake. As said though, a standard vrs doesn't have great throttle response. I use it a bit on twisties if I'm in a car with the throttle response to do it (MK2 caddy SDI is the only vehicle I have on the road that benefits from it, it doesn't seem to cut the throttle, despite having fly by wire and a multipin brake switch). Growing up driving tractors makes braking with either foot easier.

So, by that token, because I live between an offshore windfarm and an onshore windfarm, whatever I will do will be more environmentally friendly than someone who lives in a city?

There's no problem at all with the National Grid, it's a great idea. However, the post was making the point that because the vehicle was being charged up in Scotland, it would not be causing the burning of fossil fuels, whereas in England it would. If you think that's how the National Grid works, I'm going to need to get the crayons out...

Problem with that school of thought is there's this thing called the National Grid...

Fair point. 👍 Same reason people post criticising everytime someone mentions WD, we've all got our own ways of doing things. Personally I start with some 99p a can stuff and if that doesn't work, use something better.

If it's just one, I'd personally leave it alone. The CR's don't seem to need a lot of glow, so the other 3 will get it going easily enough.

You've posted this on a publicly viewable forum. Personal experience is Adrian Flux aren't particularly trustworthy either on policies or claims (some years ago, they put me down as at fault when someone drove into my trailer whilst I was stationary) I'm with swiftcover and have found them good to deal with, not had to claim with them though.

The holes go all the way through the carrier so it doesn't matter if the new bolts are a bit over.

A litre bottle should be plenty. I normally have a second one in hand in case something properly stupid happens, but the reality is I've changed the fluid on a polo, my bike (that got messy because something properly stupid happened) and my van and have only used 1.5 litre.

It's all the same parts whether it's discs or drums on the back. Really easy job to change, just make sure you have the right socket for the hub nut. Once the nut is off, the hub will most likely come off in your hand. The torque setting according to my manual is 70Nm +30 degrees.

The returned fuel will get filtered next time it does round. The stuff that gets sent to the injectors won't get filtered between the damaged pump and the injectors.

It will be synthetic, I don't think you can buy glycol based any more, well maybe through a classic car parts supplier. Dot 4 is fine. You only need 5.1 if you're going to be getting your brakes really hot, basically sustained track use or driving for deliveroo 😜. 5.1 can make the pedal heavy on some cars.

Metal particles will normally be from the high pressure pump breaking up, so after the filter, but they can go back to the tank via the return hose. Modern diesel can get algae growing in it, so giving the tank a wipe out can't hurt and might make your lift pump last longer.

Or injector seals.

I'm thinking a bad battery connection or battery earth.

I found mine, and the Ibiza before it were better on load rated tyres. It's not that the Fabia's heavy, more that the weight distribution is terrible.

Expect the bolts to be very seized, very seized indeed, and accessible only by spanner with the hub in place.

I've just had a look on the Klarius catalogue and it's given me this for the single cab 1.6: They don't list anything specifically for the Fun, but I can't really see that being an issue. I'd be sceptical about a 9k Caddy van for a Polo part fiting, as they have a lot more space at the front. As far as I know, the Caddy van never got the 1.6 8V engine, the only petrol being the 1.4 16V

Not sure that I'd be turning that on. I think that's in the sort of range that had medical applications.

If it's the same as a Mk4 Golf, just open the door and start the car, the immob should cancel the alarm.

Generally 5GHz is faster, but 2.4 is more tolerant of range and obstacles. I often put basic devices on 2.4 and save the 5 for better ones. You can get Wifi meter apps which are good for having a walk round the house with and finding good and bad spots.

Might have been someone wanting a tiny amount more grip, or like @vindaloosays, kerb protection for the wheels. Bit of a length to go to though because 215's are normally expensive in any size.