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What have you done to your Superb III today?


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6 minutes ago, Colin170CR said:

Likewise. I'm averaging 27.5mpg currently.

I used to get over 65mpg from my old MkII 2.0 TDi 170 DSG when I was commuting up & down the M1. Thankfully I don't have to do that trip anymore.

With my old mk2 170DSG L&K I could get anything from 50 to 60mpg on a decent run, but currently with my new one I'm getting around 67mpg on trips of around 30miles so I think I may be able get more on a decent run.

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The mpg I achieved was with the car fully laden with a full boot, back seats folded down and the rear floor packed as well.  However, I never pushed the car very hard, cruising at 70-75 mph, even on the unrestricted sections of German autobahn or on the Polish motorways where the limit is 140 kph (87 mph).

 

It did show over 60 mpg at times on slower sections of road, such as the Netherlands, where the limit is only 100 kph (62 mph) in the daytime.  Where it suffered was in a few long holdups where were moving forward very slowly for some time and also going around the cities of Vilnius and Klaipeda every day during the 2 weeks we spent staying there.

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To answer the topic title question:... I've ordered a product that should help getting rid of milky spots on the roof bars of my Estate version (a very well known issue on chrome trims around windows and/or roof bars on many VAG models for years. But still unsolved 🙄).
Found on an Audi forum. It looks amazing. I should receive it by the end of this week.
I haven't taken a big risk (only €9,90).
I'll let you know if this works well or not.   ;) 

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28 minutes ago, Bap33 said:

To answer the topic title question:... I've ordered a product that should help getting rid of milky spots on the roof bars of my Estate version (a very well known issue on chrome trims around windows and/or roof bars on many VAG models for years. But still unsolved 🙄).
Found on an Audi forum. It looks amazing. I should receive it by the end of this week.
I haven't taken a big risk (only €9,90).
I'll let you know if this works well or not.   ;) 

I cleaned my roof bars the other week with some Meguiars compound which was semi successful so I'd be interested to see how you get on get on with this product.

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Well, yesterday was the replacement of my front shock absorbers from the DCC system (96000 km on the clock). Indeed, they were leaking, unfortunately quite a common problem on our Mk3s, 
€2,080 for the whole replacement package + front axle geometry adjustment. As I already had the water pump (+ timing belt at 65,000 km), I asked for a Skoda France support, even if at this mileage and 5.5 years old, I had no illusions. The workshop manager told me that it would be hard since I have no maintenance history in the Skoda network (yes, it's the a drawback of DIY maintenance... ). He nevertheless granted me a 15% discount on the total. Rather fair. I appreciate.

So I got my car back with a completely different suspension comfort. The "Normal" mode is firmer and less as a "chewing gum. Same thing for the "comfort" mode, it remains a bit firm and no more as a "bicycle pump" or an old Cadillac from the 80s, which hates being "rushed". It's crazy how you get used to a slow drift in behavior. Hence, I think this should bring some braking efficiency back, even if I did not try to check it. For sure, I've bought my peace of mind for the next MOT by the end of this year.
Last point, it seems that I have less "squeaks" when passing speed bumps. Strange, since this normally comes from silent blocks of the anti-roll bar and the squeaks happen mainly in cold and wet weather.

I still have to get the geometry of the front axle set up, because the bench was unavailable by my local dealer. Appointment is already fixed in a few weeks. I'll have a look to the difference of front and rear tyres wear before this appointment to decide whether I swap my front and rear wheels to anticipate replacement of my front tyres and have an adjustment that will be made with future tyres (swapped from rear axle).

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7 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Well, yesterday was the replacement of my front shock absorbers from the DCC system (96000 km on the clock). Indeed, they were leaking, unfortunately quite a common problem on our Mk3s, 
€2,080 for the whole replacement package + front axle geometry adjustment. As I already had the water pump (+ timing belt at 65,000 km), I asked for a Skoda France support, even if at this mileage and 5.5 years old, I had no illusions. The workshop manager told me that it would be hard since I have no maintenance history in the Skoda network (yes, it's the a drawback of DIY maintenance... ). He nevertheless granted me a 15% discount on the total. Rather fair. I appreciate.

So I got my car back with a completely different suspension comfort. The "Normal" mode is firmer and less as a "chewing gum. Same thing for the "comfort" mode, it remains a bit firm and no more as a "bicycle pump" or an old Cadillac from the 80s, which hates being "rushed". It's crazy how you get used to a slow drift in behavior. Hence, I think this should bring some braking efficiency back, even if I did not try to check it. For sure, I've bought my peace of mind for the next MOT by the end of this year.
Last point, it seems that I have less "squeaks" when passing speed bumps. Strange, since this normally comes from silent blocks of the anti-roll bar and the squeaks happen mainly in cold and wet weather.

I still have to get the geometry of the front axle set up, because the bench was unavailable by my local dealer. Appointment is already fixed in a few weeks. I'll have a look to the difference of front and rear tyres wear before this appointment to decide whether I swap my front and rear wheels to anticipate replacement of my front tyres and have an adjustment that will be made with future tyres (swapped from rear axle).

That's quite a large investment. I assume you plan to keep the car for some time? 

Did you ask the garage to change the DCC Normal & Comfort settings or have they done this on their own?

Also, how did they change the Comfort & Normal settings for the stock adjustable damper settings? I know this can be done on aftermarket replacement adjustable shock systems but I was not aware it could be done with the OEM shocks.

I'm interested because I also find the Comfort & Normal DCC settings rather "soft" which is why I drive mine in DCC Sport mode most of the time.

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Spooky.

Got a message today from my Indi VAG garage to say that I'm due for an Oil & service interval service. Got into my car this evening & hey presto I go a "oil & service notification in 27 days" message on my ODI. They are on the case or what! 

Trouble is I need to sell my wife's Karoq & replace it with an EV before I book mine in for a service otherwise we have no transport while mine is in for service! 

Anyone need a 2019 Karoq Edition 1.5 4x4 with pano roof, gas bonnet struts, rear bumper protector, door cill protectors etc etc.

 

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Gandalf had its 90k km service today, although there is only just 77k kms on the clock.


Spark plugs changed.
Cabin filters changed.
Brake flush.
Brake pads & rotors still good (still on factory originals)

 

All is well except they noticed "Oil leak developing from upper timingcover seals"

It doesn't need to b addressed urgently, but something that will need to b done in the near future

They say it's normal with this engine, especially given the age.

 

I am not worried as it's not drip leaking, nor am I losing oil.
I haven't spotted it thus far, but I'll keep an eye on it from now on.

 

Quote below for the fix.....

Screenshot_20230623-221500.thumb.png.f10eb3c4acb8a703b3dc03a6bd457aa7.png

Edited by JR RS
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On 23/06/2023 at 08:11, Colin170CR said:

That's quite a large investment. I assume you plan to keep the car for some time? 

Did you ask the garage to change the DCC Normal & Comfort settings or have they done this on their own?

Also, how did they change the Comfort & Normal settings for the stock adjustable damper settings? I know this can be done on aftermarket replacement adjustable shock systems but I was not aware it could be done with the OEM shocks.

I'm interested because I also find the Comfort & Normal DCC settings rather "soft" which is why I drive mine in DCC Sport mode most of the time.

No, I didn't ask for anything. 

I have 2 possible explanations:

a) Considering the number of DCC equiped Mk3 with leaking front shock absorbers, they've developed on a new version which is firmer

b) Since the leak is really slow, I didn't notice the suspension changing its behavior over the last  40000 km (I assuming it didn't really start before), thus coming back to new ones (with the same version as my original ones) makes a real difference.  

If the setting can be tuned a little bit, I would be interested in having Comfort mode a bit softer as it is now. I fear it may be to "firm" for long motorway trips (more than 400km in one shot).

 

I'll ask the workshop manager in few weeks, when they'll set the front axle geometry. 

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This week I have purchased a 12v to 5v power brick from Amazon and wired that into the fuse box. This brick has 2 USB sockets on leads, one of these I have plugged my TomTom power lead into and run the cable via the slot that is at the bottom of the windscreen to the TomTom, mounted close to the instrument binnacle and the other USB lead I left dangling about 30 mm below the dash trim panel by the passenger door, conveniently out of the way as it is just where the door meet the trim. The passenger can then plug in their phone when it needs charging, I can have mine plugged into the socket in the consol and have the cover closed, which also seems to add some strength to the consol as it creaks much less when its closed. So now I have the dashcam and the TomTom switched ON automatically when the ignition is on, recording events and also giving updated traffic info and speed camera warnings on the TomTom. Now I'll try and track down some step by step instructions on how to get the TMC working on the Columbus using my VCDS HEX-V2 interface (still learning how to use this tool) and also how to update the maps on the Columbus and then I'll be pretty much sorted in that area.

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6 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

This week I have purchased a 12v to 5v power brick from Amazon and wired that into the fuse box. This brick has 2 USB sockets on leads, one of these I have plugged my TomTom power lead into and run the cable via the slot that is at the bottom of the windscreen to the TomTom, mounted close to the instrument binnacle and the other USB lead I left dangling about 30 mm below the dash trim panel by the passenger door, conveniently out of the way as it is just where the door meet the trim. The passenger can then plug in their phone when it needs charging, I can have mine plugged into the socket in the consol and have the cover closed, which also seems to add some strength to the consol as it creaks much less when its closed. So now I have the dashcam and the TomTom switched ON automatically when the ignition is on, recording events and also giving updated traffic info and speed camera warnings on the TomTom. Now I'll try and track down some step by step instructions on how to get the TMC working on the Columbus using my VCDS HEX-V2 interface (still learning how to use this tool) and also how to update the maps on the Columbus and then I'll be pretty much sorted in that area.

There is a thread on here somewhere where you can add POI’s for speed cameras etc. You can get rid of your Tom Tom entirely then and just use the built in satnav

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50 minutes ago, Danoid said:

There is a thread on here somewhere where you can add POI’s for speed cameras etc. You can get rid of your Tom Tom entirely then and just use the built in satnav

I think that the speed camera POI's files have to be paid for and I don't think they give you any audio alert, but I might be wrong on that point The TomTom on the other hand gives me lifetime free updates of both maps and camera warnings, it also has a database of the speed limits of most roads and even where at some locations, it changes limits for a while and will alert you via audio alerts if you are exceeding the limit even if there are no cameras in the area, I find that very useful indeed, very handy especially when driving in strange location. It is also very useful when you join onto a road from a side, turning and there is not a limit sign at the junction, you could assume incorrectly that the road you're joining is a national limit when it is not for some reason. It is also having an excellent average speed camera calculator built-in function that will tell when you are entering a zone, even from a side junction and will display what your current average speed is, this worth its weight in gold.

That being said, I would still love to get the built-in system working correctly, as it is always useful to have a backup system at all times.

Edited by Graham Butcher
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19 hours ago, Graham Butcher said:

I think that the speed camera POI's files have to be paid for and I don't think they give you any audio alert, but I might be wrong on that point The TomTom on the other hand gives me lifetime free updates of both maps and camera warnings, it also has a database of the speed limits of most roads and even where at some locations, it changes limits for a while and will alert you via audio alerts if you are exceeding the limit even if there are no cameras in the area, I find that very useful indeed, very handy especially when driving in strange location. It is also very useful when you join onto a road from a side, turning and there is not a limit sign at the junction, you could assume incorrectly that the road you're joining is a national limit when it is not for some reason. It is also having an excellent average speed camera calculator built-in function that will tell when you are entering a zone, even from a side junction and will display what your current average speed is, this worth its weight in gold.

That being said, I would still love to get the built-in system working correctly, as it is always useful to have a backup system at all times.

 

I have an old TomTom unit. The original bow back CRT TV shape but I'm not sure if it still works because I've not used it for years. It was dam expensive when new £500+ if I recall). I also have a more recent Garmin with free map updates for life. I don't really need it for our current cars both of which have sat nav but, it is useful to take on on holiday if we are hiring a car without Sat Nav (in the EU at least). I have taken it abroad in my own car as a backup because the factory fitted Sat Nav's in both our cars can go AWAL sometimes & post code location is a bit of a lottery sometimes. My wife's Karoq has a newer version of the Skoda / VW system. My sat nav does not display road speed limits unless the sat nav / maps is turn on. I believe it can be coded to show the road speed limits when not in sat nav / map mode but I have never got around to having it done. There are quite a few other code changes I'd like to have done (e.g. Skandi rear DRL's) so if there's anyone out there in the Bucks area that has the gizmo that can re-code stuff I would be interested in a "Tinker day". 

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21 hours ago, Graham Butcher said:

I think that the speed camera POI's files have to be paid for and I don't think they give you any audio alert, but I might be wrong on that point The TomTom on the other hand gives me lifetime free updates of both maps and camera warnings, it also has a database of the speed limits of most roads and even where at some locations, it changes limits for a while and will alert you via audio alerts if you are exceeding the limit even if there are no cameras in the area, I find that very useful indeed, very handy especially when driving in strange location. It is also very useful when you join onto a road from a side, turning and there is not a limit sign at the junction, you could assume incorrectly that the road you're joining is a national limit when it is not for some reason. It is also having an excellent average speed camera calculator built-in function that will tell when you are entering a zone, even from a side junction and will display what your current average speed is, this worth its weight in gold.

That being said, I would still love to get the built-in system working correctly, as it is always useful to have a backup system at all times.

I've downloaded a speed camera POI file for free on a French forum (sorry, only French cameras, but I assume, you can find the same on an English forum). All POIs then appear on my Columbus, which "dings" roughly 300m ahead from cameras. Only 'drawback' it also dings for camera flashing opposite direction. But I can accommodate with that.

Additionally, I use Waze for long trips which give also Camera position in real time. Waze can also be displayed on Columbus with screen mirroring function via CarPlay.

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2 hours ago, Colin170CR said:

 

I have an old TomTom unit. The original bow back CRT TV shape but I'm not sure if it still works because I've not used it for years. It was dam expensive when new £500+ if I recall). I also have a more recent Garmin with free map updates for life. I don't really need it for our current cars both of which have sat nav but, it is useful to take on on holiday if we are hiring a car without Sat Nav (in the EU at least). I have taken it abroad in my own car as a backup because the factory fitted Sat Nav's in both our cars can go AWAL sometimes & post code location is a bit of a lottery sometimes. My wife's Karoq has a newer version of the Skoda / VW system. My sat nav does not display road speed limits unless the sat nav / maps is turn on. I believe it can be coded to show the road speed limits when not in sat nav / map mode but I have never got around to having it done. There are quite a few other code changes I'd like to have done (e.g. Skandi rear DRL's) so if there's anyone out there in the Bucks area that has the gizmo that can re-code stuff I would be interested in a "Tinker day". 

I had my Skandi rear DRL's activated, but I then deactivated them as I could not see any advantage in them. DRL's are designed to make your car more visible to people in front of you and to distinguish between cars that were active and those that were stationary.

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It's not much worse than with the 19" before. It's just as suitable for everyday use as with the others. Of course you have to pay more attention to holes, but that's what you do with the 19".

Otherwise, the rolling noise is a bit louder than with the 19".

21" on the other hand wouldn't be for me. That's when it gets hard to drive.
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