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If you can live with your facelift car front end looks (I could not, which is why I bought late pre-FL 2016 ), then I'd keep what you already have for another 3+ years and just service it as and when needed. New one has smaller fuel tank, more software issues, drab interior, less powerful engine and worse suspension. It does look better than the Mk3 FL, just my opinion. What's the mileage on yours?

Already mentioned and perhaps you have tried this, but quite a few radios unlock if you turn ignition on, then turn the radio on afterwards. Some radios need a full restart by pressing on button for about 30s. The key is stored somewhere in the ECU. I know this was the case in our Mk1 Superb as well as Roomster, radio got accidentally locked out in both but recovered.

I used 'radiator cowl' and found it as 'kryt chladiče', though would have tried 'shroud' if I was still not getting good results.

As above, look for the radio code in handbooks, paperwork, etc. - it's four digits. If no luck, there's online services who will decode from the serial number, or you'll have to contact a Skoda dealer. If all else fails, plenty guides online for fitting an aftermarket stereo to these.

Another word for it might be Shroud.

Still waiting... The service center has been waiting for two weeks now for a reply from the importer (tech support) to finally figure out what the next step will be. Honestly, I'm at my wits' end with them and I'm this close to calling them up and giving them a piece of my mind about why everything moves at a snail's pace.

I keep a drip tray under the front of my Yeti in the garage. There is almost constantly a small pool of water formed - approx under the driver's footwell area - even after a week of non use. I did check once and it is where the air-con drain is located.

I had the same problem last summer. I cured it (after some Googling) by cleaning and then wiping both sides of the the whole length of the part of the belt that goes into the drum with a silicon spray. And also a squirt of silicon (not much) into the drum mechanism after removing the trim to gain access.

@digibum Any progress?

That window motor is a passenger side unit from a Left Hand Drive T5 Transporter, so not the correct part for your Roomster. That can't be made to work fully/correctly despite fitting OK mechanically. It should be 6Y1959801, and the last line of the label should be SK258DDRS, not VW750PDLS. I'll message you to discuss options.

If it's the original radio it won't need a code entering after battery reconnection, it'll just sort itself out. The engine ECU won't lose anything either. It is mainly Haynes playing it safe. The airbag system (which includes seatbelt pre-tensioners) won't be active unless ignition is switched on, so just don't do that and you can leave battery connected.

Some photos, that I can't upload to first post. And I found one modification is missing • Hazard light button in darker "vine" color from T5 facelift (bolt on) There's photo of spoiler that I'm thinking to install to my Fabia. Also I've found photo of VRS prototype cluster

Hello all. Last post on this topic is mine, and I can write my new rare modifications that it did. • OEM Leatherette door armrests, they are very rare, I was searching for them for about two years. There will be uploaded photo how they look • OEM Audi A3 HomeLink retrofit kit installed in dash above ignition key • VW Scirocco steering wheel • OEM Sportline red seatbelts • I also have OEM Tour de France yellow seatbelts in my collection, but not installed in my car, i like red more • Dealer option boot shelf with net • Elegance spec double buttons on side of driver's seat (fuel tank and boot realise) • Focal IS VW 165 speaker kit in front • UIS7862S android car audio installed with integrated DSP, connected to small high level amplifier. I've installed one 20A LC-filter on 12V line and 4A LC-filter on ignition line. Connected UGreen Bluetooth 6.0 LDAC adapter to AUX cables of android through Sonic Sciencific USB filter for better sound quality • 12V power outlet in boot from high spec Combi • Double boot lightning, like in high spec Combi • OEM Škoda umbrella, placed in passenger side door • OEM Škoda Laurin Klement rag • Centre console armrest retrimmed in leather from eBay (OEM look) • Climatic control knobs changed to Polo 6R ones (not bolt on) • Milotec cluster chrome rings, Golf mk6 chrome needles and small VRS sticker in bottom side of cluster • Front dome light changed to Passat W8 one with chrome sunroof switch • Rear dome light (side dome light of Golf 4) installed in rear plastic above head and "open door" function connected to front dome light bulb, so when I turn on front dome, rear dome lights also • Sunvisors from Polo 9N GTI, now left and right side has mirrors, card holders and electric contact that allows to install sunvisor lightning. I already have full kit to install lightning, it's waiting for right moment • Rear bumper Maxton lip installed • Front red Turboworks strut bar installed • New rear camera installed in license plate lighting • Small Laurin Klement sticker on centre air vent, I think I can call my car a little bit Laurin Klement with all my options installed😅 Plans for near future: • Rear homemade red strutbar • DIY driver oriented tweeter housings in OEM style • Rear dome light with red pictogram lighting as front (found one company that can make one for me) • Maybe install some more sporty oriented black leather seats in front, as my seats are worn out, or maybe renovate mine. I'm thinking of TT ones, or A6 C6 ones with electric regulations • Door handle ambient lighting like in Superb mk1 • Fabia WRC like windscreen electric heating with custom made button in central side of dashboard • Heated windscreen washers • Bigger windscreen washer bottle from Fabia with front light washers installed Now I don't have much ideas, because I did almost anything that I want. If you have some ideas, feel free to tell me, thanks.

Since I've had my Fabia Mk2 I've found that, especially in the summer, the inertia reel on the drivers seat belt tends to get stuck when it's very warm. This often means that (even if I pull it very very slowly and gently), it will "lock" as if it's been jerked sharply. Generally speaking, though, when it's cold, I don't have the same problem. If i jiggle it repeatedly, eventually it will free up and I can put it on as usual. From what I can see from the Haynes Manual, it's not that difficult to get access to it and, from another thread I've read on here, it's probably just that the works have got a bit gummed up over the years and some cleaning spray and new lubrication should sort it out. My issue, though, is that Haynes says to "Disconnect the Battery Negative" before trying to do anything like this, presumably because of the "explosive" tensioner mechanism. But it also says that the ECU will lose its "learned" settings and the radio will security lock until I put in a code (which was probably lost by a previous owner long ago!) So is it actually necessary to disconnect the negative terminal if I'm not going to be disassembling the mechanism? Is it just Haynes being overly cautious? Advice would be welcomed.

Couldn’t find this grommet at all. So went back to plan B. I ran the cables across the back of the bay in some heat proof conduit and then tucked it down behind the heat shield and in through the clutch grommet. Wires all terminated and routed next to the PDC controller ready for when the correct 18 pin plug arrives.

Indeed. Glad you got some help.

Yes the water pump is on the gearbox end of these engines. Prompted by the picture of the broken key blade, I checked up on the Skoda parts list for this age of Fabia - and the key blade is not available as a spare part from Skoda - surely that is crazy as it is fixed in place by a tiny spiral pin! So that just leaves buying a new blade from another source and no doubt there will be plenty even although aftermarket key blades, its seems, are made from harder material - so cutting it to suit the car's locks will be harder on the key cutting machine.

Hi Pete,I was given your name buy a guy on roomster owners on fb. I'm having issues with drivers window. It's a 2007 skoda roomster 2 2007.

Here’s my thread

I had a very similar issue on my mk3 VRs tdi, I have a whole thread on the diag and fix. I’d guess both EGR cooler and HG have failed you can test the former by buying a bypass kit of the cooler this does what it suggests and bypasses the coolant from entering the cooler. If the coolant still sropa you know it’s likely a HG issue. You can also do a sniff test on the coolant and see if you have combustion gasses in the coolant, although that could be from the cooler or the HG so all it confirms at that point is a failure. In terms of fix, id started with a cooler (I have a pretty much new Mahle one I can sell, was on my car for about 2 months). You can also pressure test the cooler once it’s off the car. My issue was a combination of cooler and HG, the latter becoming much more obvious after replacing the cooler as I think pressure was escaping from the cooler and when it couldn’t do that it escaped from my expansion tank. HG job is pretty involved, you’ll need to get the head pressure tested as well just to be sure it’s not cracked and then about £900 worth of seals and gaskets etc. it’s a good 10 to 14 hrs of work so if you’re not going it yourself it’ll be over £2k for a HG job alone, but there’s other items worth doing while you’re in there.

Thank you

here's my earlier post on how to https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536594-easy-home-smart-link-activation/#comment-5983920

2014 Skoda Octavia Mk3 2.0 TDI – Coolant Loss / Possible EGR Cooler and/or Head Gasket Hi all, I’m looking for some advice regarding an ongoing cooling-system problem with a 2014 Skoda Octavia Mk3 2.0 TDI, 6-speed manual, with roughly 300,000 km. I bought the car on 25 July 2026. It drove reasonably well initially, but after a little over a week the coolant warning came on and I found that the coolant level had dropped. Sometimes I just release the presher in the expantion tank and the coolent comes bubbling back, after about 20-80km of driving the next day I find that the the tank needs to be topped back up. So far, the following has been done: Coolant/antifreeze was replaced and the system was checked. The water pump was subsequently replaced after it was suspected of being faulty. Despite the new water pump, the coolant problem continued. Several mechanics have looked at the car. The main possibilities suggested have been either a head-gasket problem and/or a faulty EGR cooler. Most recently, a mechanic carried out a cooling-system pressure test. The tester was left connected for essentially the whole day and the system did not lose pressure. Because of that, the mechanic could not conclusively say whether the problem was the head gasket or EGR cooler and did not charge me for the diagnostic. One mechanic has verbally stated that both the ERG and the Head Gasket have failed. But would not give me a hard quote for how much the repairs would cost. The strange part is that the car can apparently hold pressure during a static pressure test, but it is still losing/using coolant when driven. At the moment I’m trying to work out the best way to distinguish between an EGR cooler leaking internally and a combustion/head-gasket-related problem before spending a large amount of money replacing parts. I’d particularly appreciate advice on: Whether an EGR cooler failure on the 2.0 TDI can cause coolant loss while still passing a normal cooling-system pressure test. The best way of testing the EGR cooler specifically. Whether there are any particular 2.0 TDI coolant-system faults I should be checking before condemning the head gasket. Whether there is any value in doing compression or leak-down testing on the engine in this situation. (Finding a mechanic willing/able to do this test has been next to impossible in my neck of the woods.) Are there any known signs that would distinguish an EGR cooler leak from a head-gasket failure on these engines? The engine otherwise runs and drives, and the most recent pressure test showing no pressure loss has left us without a clear diagnosis. One mechanic has suggested trying Steel Seal/head-gasket sealer to see whether it changes the symptoms, but I’m hesitant to put any type of sealing product into the cooling system before properly identifying the fault - since the car is legally under warranty. Any advice from people familiar with the Mk3 Octavia 2.0 TDI would be greatly appreciated, particularly if you have encountered a similar coolant-loss problem. Thanks.

WHY !

My mistake.