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so just had the 2nd year service, cost me £269.30 for the Oil & Inspection Service - I then got an email afterwards saying I should have had the brake fluid changed for an additional £116 - taking the p!ss?? should I just get this done locally (Kwik fit etc?)

Thank you, the factory fit tyres are non directional, so front to back then. The tyre pressure monitoring bothered me as I had a pressure monitoring problem day 3 of my factory new car, turned out the pressures were all over the place!

I went with Road Angel Halo and had it fitted by Halfords (front and back) very good.

Best option would be to try and balance caravan to reduce nose weight. Just make sure you dont make it two rear end heavy as risk of snaking. Folks years ago used a set of old bathroom scales under jockey wheel with a bit of sheet wood on top to check. They took everything with them even though they were only going for a week!! They towed with Volvo 940 but reckon Superb will be an excellent tow car due to its size and weight. Alasdair

Just two hours ago the clutch slave cylinder has been replaced. At the same time they replaced a small battery hidden somewhere inside the interior overhead light housing – which I didn’t even know it existed! The technician explained that the slave cylinder had a tiny leak and would eventually fail, potentially leaving me without a clutch. However, the "issue" regarding the car’s inability to pull away smoothly and gently when using only a little throttle and low RPMs remains more or less unresolved. As far as I can tell, the only changes I noticed after the repair are a slightly softer pedal feel (it was soft enough anyway) and a slightly different engagement/disengagement point. Otherwise, that hesitation immediately after moving off from a standstill still persists to some degree. Maybe just a little less obvious because the slight change at the engarment point drives me to a different foot reaction and synchronization with the throttle. The technician claims this isn't a problem and that the car behaves exactly as a brand-new one would when leaving the showroom. To me, this suggests a factory-inherent "flaw" that no service center or technician can fix. The only “solution” is to adapt my driving style—specifically how I pull away—which actually minimizes or even eliminates the issue. So, don’t waste your time, energy, or money on something that isn't actually broken. Just adapt and live with it - simple as that… The good thing about the whole story is that I didn’t pay anything.

Welcome to the forum. I use a Nextbase 222 with the integrated rear camera - surprisingly good rear coverage despite the camera being on the front screen. One con, camera can be a little fussy about class of micro-usb card, card can also apparently run into issues if not reviewed and re-formatted (erased) occasionally.

Glow plugs? As @Alasdair1 says, get it scanned.

@Tresco have you managed to find what the problem was?

Fair play Read every post Proper build this And some lovely touches Kinda wish I didn’t get a 1.5 TSi now As I am struggling to find parts that I would love that don’t seem to fit 🥲

Hi Lee,I was thinking the same thing.👍👍👍

Thank you! Much appreciated.👍

As far as I'm aware they're powder coated first then a diamond cutting tool shaves off thin layers to reveal a shiny part.

Hello,I’ve just purchased a 24 Škoda Karoq sportline,my question please is,are they supposed to be painted or diamond cut .thank you.

I have a 2025 diesel Kodiaq Mk ll. I have never had a dashcam in any of my cars but thinking of getting a front facing one. Any recommendations of make and model would be welcome. Thanks.

Is there a new firmware availabl for the skoda kodiaq? Device Part number: 565035864 Hardware: H41 Software: 0480 Thanks Andreas

Yep, 2 round rubber covers, one about 3 inches across and 2 inches.

Sent

I would have said 500-1000rpm was pretty fast for just cranking. Wonder if the crank or cam position sensor has failed. Reckon a scan with vcds or similar might be in order. The brake manoeuvring unavailable may be down to the long cranking and voltage drop. As said see if there are any fault codes stored. Alasdair

Hi, @pab567 can you also PM the link to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T please? Looking to upgrade from MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0468T Cheers,

Hi, I bought my first Skoda and signed up here on Briskoda back in 2009. I was so impressed with the car I moved to the Czech Republic (ok not real reason 🙂 ) Now back in ownership with a Mk3 Octavia RS tdi.

They're different beasts; Superb is larger MQB-B chassis; longer and heavier. The car isn't a hot hatch and is a Passat equivalent so better at motorway munching with much better interior space. Whiteline rear arb is good - hopefully on the stiffest setting. I found although the droplinks weren't necessary, you can notice the firmer bushes based in uprated ones.

I don’t NEED a sports car, but i’m so glad I have my 1979 MG Midget, the antidote to modern all-singing all-dancing cars… 😎

So I tried to start my 2.0TDI crmb engine this morning and I had crank with some spluttering but no start. I've had this a few weeks ago but after a few cranks got it going, but today no luck. It's cranking between 500-1000rpm, glow plug light is off and after failing to crank i getting brake manoeuvring unavailable. I have a new battery replaced on Thursday and coded correctly, tested it and it was showing at 12.4v. Any ideas on what it might be? Anything to test?

I have had a look. Sorry, but what do you mean by the rear of the unit? Are the rubber covers where you change the bulbs?

You won't get any action from the dealer, they'll deny knowledge of a problem. Report it as a safety issue to the DVSA as I suggested above