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I can't find any help about enabling via SD GEM mode. Any help about that?

DCC is amazing if u ask me. It controls both compression and rebound of the shocks, electronically. Multiple levels of shock control - Comfort, Normal & Sport. With the DCC Slider Mod, this increases to 15 levels of shock control. In addition, DCC is also linked to Steering, Braking and Headlights. Mine is still behaving after almost 10 yrs now, despite being lowered for 7+ yrs.

Ive never had DCC, on my second superb and Quite happy with it without. A nice to have from my perspective but I dont know any different! Costs wise its much cheaper to replace struts for standard suspension if anything fails.

I wondered if maybe there was a noise (electrical) suppression component missing from this starter. Can buy clip on ferrite cable filters very cheaply, might be worth trying on radio power wiring, if there's space.

Hi everyone, Can I fit the 78 mm stroke crankshaft from a 1.4 8V MPI (Fabia/Felicia) into a Skoda Favorit 1.3 block? If it is possible, how straightforward is the swap and what are the main things I need to watch out for (block clearance, conrods/pistons, flywheel/clutch fitment, etc.)? Thanks in advance!

Link to download RNS510-5238A-josi-VIM-Testmode-60-35-5 sent in PM

Do you have 'Optimised Battery Use' enabled? This helps maintain the 12V by topping up from HV battery when required.

Su8perb owner here but its much the same: 2- Seems to be a known bug. Watch out for it randomly changing settings. Mine occasionally turns of the autohold brakes. 3 - I suspect these are fromn the "Traffication" system. Lookm in the apps on the car to find the Trafffication app an turn off the alerts there. 5 - If I'm using navigation from Carplay for any time I always use a cable for charging. If nothing wlse the phone gets really hot when navigating and wireless charging which doesnt do the overal battery life any good.

Will follow your tip when i get the car back from the mechanic \m/. Thank you D.FYLAKTOS

Hey there Chaps, I am getting the same issue . Skoda Superb Elegance 2012 plate. "Software Download- Source Activated, Searching for SWL Image" Would it be possible to send over the software link so I can burn it onto a CD. Many thanks (sorry re posted with photo and tags for the guys). @pab567 @varooom

As the radio worked before it must be something else. Reckon it may be the starter drawing more current as its new. Do the headlights blower etc switch off when cranking. Alasdair

Just delivered my Karoq to Barlows at Crewe, and picked up a manual Fabia Monte Carlo courtesy car. No charge for this, but warned I would have to pay an excess of £250 if I crashed it! It's quite a sporty little thing, but having to change gears on roundabouts, and use a handbrake again, remind me of what I enjoy about my Karoq!!

To reduce noise from ratling, on that Striker loop (U-bar) which looks like the Greek letter Π i have added a layer of tape (Cloth of Fabric as they say it, not common electrical tape). Not too much to create problems in closing,keeps the hood more steady.

Sent a PM

The advice from Binx is good - easiest/cheapest! I would actually add, depending on your current/expected workload, to start something you are sure can finish in one go ... or at least with the least amount of distractions! ☠️ PS: have not forgot about the OBD11, just can't find it yet ☹️

Both of those codes point at the same part. In VCDS terms P1103 is 17511, "Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low", and Ross-Tech's fix for it is to check the heater of the oxygen sensor before the cat. P0130 is 16514, "Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit", and the cause Ross-Tech list for that one is the same thing, the Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater. The sensor has to be hot to give a proper signal, so a heater that isn't working would fit what you're seeing: a reading stuck very low at idle, jumping about, and the heater switching on and off. If the ECU believes the mixture is lean it will add fuel, so it could be part of the high idle consumption too. What I'd check, in this order: 1. The plug for the front (pre-cat) sensor. Unplug it and look for green or burnt pins and a cracked housing, and check the wiring along the exhaust for melted insulation. 2. The heater itself. With the plug off, measure resistance across the heater pins on the sensor side (check a wiring diagram for your engine code, as pinouts vary). No reading at all means the heater is open circuit and the sensor needs replacing. 3. The heater supply on the loom side, including its fuse. 4. Your amp wire. As it all started around the time you ran the cable through the grommet, have a look there for anything nicked, but I'd still start at the sensor plug. If the heater is open, a new sensor is the fix. Clear the codes afterwards and see whether the idle and the cold stumble settle before you chase anything else.

Thanks!

Just wondering what the correct rear brake hose size is for this set up. Octavia vrs, estate challenge. Manual park brake dsg. 2019\2020

Hi everyone, I'm retrofitting heated seats to my 2018 Skoda Octavia Mk3 FL (5E) using the original KUFATEC 43340 wiring harness. Everything is physically installed and connected correctly. Both front seats (driver and passenger) have heating elements installed. I'm trying to activate the heated seats using VCDS only, without purchasing or using the KUFATEC 41899 coding dongle. Vehicle information - Model: Skoda Octavia Mk3 FL (5E) - Year: 2018 - Engine: 1.6 TDI DGTE - VIN: <Removed> - Climate control: Manual A/C (not Climatronic) Installed control modules 08 – Auto HVAC - Part Number: 5E0 820 047 N - Component: AC Manuell H05 1202 - Coding: 02010004000100001000000000400000 - ASAM: EV_ACManueBHBVW37X 003129 09 – Central Electronics (BCM) - Part Number: 5Q0 937 084 DA - Hardware: 5Q0 937 084 CD - Component: BCM MQBAB B H38 0273 - Dataset: V03935283TP - ASAM: EV_BCMMQB 019001 Current behaviour When I press either heated seat button: - The button illuminates for approximately 2 seconds. - Then it switches off automatically. - Both driver and passenger heated seats behave the same way. VCDS adaptation channels found in Address 08 - IDE07948 – Retention of front passenger seat heater level: changed from Not active to Active. - IDE01067 – Retention of driver's seat heater level: Active for 10 minutes. I could not find any other relevant seat heating activation channels in Address 08. My questions 1. Has anyone successfully installed the KUFATEC 43340 heated seat retrofit on a 2018 Octavia 5E FL using VCDS only? 2. Is there a specific Long Coding or Adaptation procedure required in BCM (09) or HVAC (08)? 3. Does the KUFATEC 41899 dongle simply apply coding that can also be done manually using VCDS? 4. Why do the heated seat buttons illuminate for 2 seconds and then switch off? 5. Is there a specific BCM adaptation or configuration that enables the heated seat retrofit? I'm particularly interested in the exact VCDS coding/adaptation values for this specific setup. I would really appreciate any help from someone who has completed this retrofit using KUFATEC wiring and VCDS. Thanks in advance!

Had a 190 on a 65 plate a few years back. Looking at another Superb. How important is DCC to you?

The well known water pump issue is not about leaks. Sorry, I forgot to explain... VAG engineers designed a pump which is off when the engine starts cold. When its hot enough, the water pump runs as expected. The problem is that this pump tends to "stick" and remains off when the engine is hot enough, which leads to engine overheating...

Haha, wonder what the voice command is for that!

Not as yet. I've been following the other thread. There's talk of another update, I think it was in Shop, that some found helped get rid of the message, and I've been meaning to look into that. I was also planning to contact Skoda and ask them about it but not got around to it. So I'm still hitting Later every day, sometimes several times. Worst case it's in for a service in March, they can look at it then. If I make any progress I'll update this thread though.

From my own experience the wireless charging trays in cars are great in theory but poor in practice because they allow the phone to get too hot, which isn't great for the battery in the long run. My Kodiaq will just about charge an iPhone 14 Pro while CarPlay is being used on a long journey, but every so often I get a message that charging will resume when iPhone temperature returns to normal, and by that point it really is glowing. My solution is to use a cable on longer journeys. You can get USB-C cables with right-angle connectors now, and one 20cm or so in length is enough to pick up the phone without having to unplug each time. Happily it coils underneath the phone and stops it charging wireless too. I think until car manufacturers realise that wireless charging trays need their own air conditioning we're better off with a wired charger.