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Hi and thanks for reply! I have tried several different reset options around battery disconnect and then key on for 30 seconds and off for 30 seconds (also longer periods and also letting it idle) but it seems pretty stuck in the EPC limp mode. Interestingly one time when I was trying reset it seemed to be working and revving normally etc but immediately when I took foot off brake it freaked out and went back into limp mode which seemed very weird and should be unrelated. I have verified ok hoses connected and nothing else was disturbed in process. I am wondering if I messed up the insides opening it manually to clean (pushing valve open) How is the VCDS set? I assume that needs to be at a shop? Thanks, DDW

Think it may need re calibrating using vcds etc but did read on another forum you could try turning on ignition but dont start car or touch any pedals. Leave for 3mins exactly. Turn off and wait for 10-15secs and start car. Leave idling for a few mins. If the above doesnt work try disconnecting battery for 30mins and reconnect. Turn on ignition without starting car for 1 min then start car and leave to idle for 10 mins. Hope it helps Alasdair

New regulations were coming in anyway that Vehicles had to have manual door handles. Discussed on here previously.

Not sure on the MK3 but if the bolts go through the wheel bearing hub from front the may protrude on the inside. If so make sure the exposed threads of bolts are clean. Just done my daughters volvo front bearing and used a wire brush on drill to clean up exposed threads. If you try and remove bolts with corrosion/dirt on exposed threads they can seize/break or damage hub carrier. Alasdair

Am late to this but my opinion would be the PD140 Scout I've had a PD140 Octavia Estate (non scout) and I currently have a facelift mk3 Octavia Scout 184/dsg. For what you mention (forestry work) I'd avoid the DPF/complicated EGR and DSG where possible. The PD140 is easier to remove/block clean the EGR, you've no issues with the DPF blocking and personally if it was me I'd be less precious about the mk2 octavia in the forest, I can't comment on the capability of the mk2 scout but we did tow a caravan and horse box and in fields it was quite good and find the mk3 scout very capable (when moving, getting going isn't as good as expected due to the gearbox being so snappy). My PD140 was slightly modified but also used for towing, apart from a turbo issue around 85k miles it was faultless. I like the 'auto' driving from the DSG but find it when trying to manouver slowly a bit on/off so lacks the clutch control which isn't such a good thing on lose/muddy/gravel tracks (ask me how I know!!) I currently live in the Peak District and all our cars have had to tow caravans/horse boxes in fields but we're currently in the process of moving to Dumfries & Galloway to a smallholding hence choosing a Scout, no surfaced entrance to our property and quite remote so the ground clearance/haldex will be getting tested properly soon

No they weren't. Musk's Tesla were about 100 years late to the party.

China is recalling almost 3,000,000 Teslas over the flush-hidden door handles and concerns about their safety in an emergency, such as after a crash. I wonder how many other manufacturers will be doing the same. This type of handle seems to be everywhere these days. Nearly three million Teslas recalled in China over hidden door handles - BBC News Tesla recalls nearly 3m vehicles in China over door handle safety risks | Tesla | The Guardian Tesla Recalls 3 Million EVs in China Over Door Handle Safety Tesla’s Door Handles Lead to Its Biggest Recall Yet | WIRED Tesla and others begin record vehicle recall in China | Reuters Drive magazine indicates that they are not alone, other Chinese cars also recalled for the same issue. Tesla leads 4.3 million cars recalled for door handle safety fears

Here in Norway, they seem to be rather strict with these things, I therefore expect they would not accept the ones fitted at the rear of my car. I agree with your experience from the front brakes. When I replaced mine, there were small torx-screws which did not cause much trouble. The hexhead bolts I think I remember from the rear brakes of my car might well fasten a "hubcarrier" meaning the part to which the bearing gets fixed. In that case, breaking these bolts, damaging the threads is a scary thought....

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/540669-costof-kamiq-service-year-2 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/540809-first-service-cost

1.5 Petrol Sportline - that's what i'm thinking, seeing as it's only done 5500 miles - it doesn't need the major service right?

What engine has it? It should be much the same as the 1st Service but with a Pollen Filter extra. Oil & Inspection Service. Unless you are having the Brake Fluid Changed, or the AC serviced. But a dealership might try ripping you off. But the spark plugs are not getting changed or the air filter.

Unfortunately I don’t have an active subscription right now.. I though about it but I wasn’t sure it will work.

what should this cost me?

UPDATE - CASE SOLVED. Hi everyone, I'd like to update you guys on the case. I just came back from my Europe trip. While being in Poland I got in touch with a guy who was familiar with this issues and already cracked the case. Using ODIS he turned "predictive route data" off in 4B module and after reseting few things(I'm not familiar with ODIS) headlights on motorway are acting exactly as on A or B road... I'm still not going to use full beam on busy motorway but when driving on motorway with low traffic it's actually working well. I cancelled my appointment with Skoda because obviously my modification in system would cause them to charge me for diagnostic and knowing they approach it was not certain that I would get anywhere with this case. So there is a solution but ODIS is the best option, apparently its possible with VCDS but its more complicated. Apart from couple of people, no one really responded to my post which is a bit disappointing, but I just wanted you to know that there is a solution! Many thanks 👍

Have had loads of cars with splashguards missing and passed MOT. Only once failed as it was loose but MOT guy kindly pulled it off and passed it. The bolts on my sons MK1 fabia were remarkably good though that was on front and small allen type. I soaked in penetrating oil for a few days. On the rear It may be the hub bolts that you are seeing? From memory I think you have to remove hub to replace splash guards on rear as its sandwichd between Alasdair

Hi all, New to forum but I have run into an issue trying to do good deed for bonus daughter. She has a Fabia Mk1 2004 and was having some issues with idling fuel usage. I thought an easy check would be cleaning the throttle body. It seemed easiest to remove it for cleaning which I did and from what I originally found online as long as gentle you could open the valve manually for cleaning, in true my normal operating form after that when I had problems I found all the info not to manually open as it causes problems. When I had it cleaned up and put it back on immediately the EPC light came on and it went into limp mode and won't come out. I have tried various ways to reset it (battery disconnect, key on for 30 seconds, etc) but nothing is making a difference. After a battery disconnect it goes into that EPC mode immediately. When the key is first turned on the valve flutters then does nothing. Now an interesting thing is even before I cleaned it, turning the key on and pressing the accelerator pedal did nothing as far as opening the valve whereas I see information it should open? Anyway, I am trying to figure out best option now as the car is inoperable and she returns tomorrow. :-( I have tried checking the pins on the throttle body with a multimeter but not sure I am following right pattern but the results there did not seem to give promising feedback. I also am not finding any of these available except for one about 1.5 hours away which might be my next step if nobody has anything to try. Thank you in advance for any help. DDW

I shouldn’t need to tell them how the car works, just what it is doing. After 2 1/2 years I have given up, next car will be from a different company.

Hi all When I rotate the front wheel, I can hear a sound similar to the one in the link. I have already changed the dual-mass flywheel and checked all the engine mountings. The backbone (lower engine mounting) has been changed. I would like to find out what is causing this sound. The car has done 200,000 km. I bought this car when it had done 100,000 km and the sound was already present, but not so loud. I am assuming it is the differential or transfer box. Unfortunately, I don't know how to diagnose whether it is the differential or the transfer box. When I twist the cardan shaft for the rear wheels, the sound is not as loud as when I twist the front wheel. Any ideas about this issue? WBR Primoz

Has anyone come across a good source of the Paint Protective Film (PPF) for the rear wheel arches please? Following some minor damage I now need to replace one side. Thanks

If theres a wobble on disc check hub face for any dirt corosion first. Doesnt take much to throw the disc out. Could be a bad disc but as its heated up before disc/caliper change and no handbrake cable I reckon its the hub thats maybe out of alignment or bearing is shot. Used to have similar problems on an old volvo 940. I got a dial guage to check trueness of hubs/discs and it was out slightly on rear. From memory it was after my folks spun car in snow and hit kerb. Alasdair

Another way to enable/disable that option is via the mobile App. Do you still have a valid subscription?

Hello, the splash guards at my rear brake disks are badly corroded and will be, what I think would be called a "MOT-failure" in the UK next time it is checked. When replacing them, how much trouble should I reasonably expect? From memory when I replaced the disks some time ago, the splash guards seem to be hold in place by some pretty substantial hex-head bolts which I thought was surprising. My questions are: Do the bolts tend to break when trying to undo them? What is the safest method to get them out in one piece (e.g. impact gun or wrench)? Do these bolts hold something more than the splash guards, meaning how much of a disaster is it if I mess up one and cant get the remains out? Thank you very much in advance 🙂

I've been looking at the Epiq for a while now. It could be the replacement for my wife's current '22plate 64kWh Kona EV. I need to test drive one because the main reason we want to change is the Kona's ride which is so bouncy & jiggly. The Kona's short wheel base & stiff springs / shocks don't help it at all. Fine on smooth roads but we don't have many of them in the UK. The Epiq is about the same length but with a much bigger boot & a slightly smaller battery / range. We currently are getting 4.7miles/kWh out of the Kona (no heat pump) which is is going to be hard to beat. None of our local dealers has an Epiq in their showrooms yet. However, the order books are open if you want to buy one? Why would someone order a car without seeing one in the flesh or taking it for a test drive? Our next car could be our first ever lease car as well.

A note on browsers an VW 7z compressed file. A few Seat people have been having problems with Edge. The workaround is to do the download and when it's finished... it never appears as finished just waiting to open, you then rename the extension to 7z than you can open it. Muttering had appeared with the mib2 standard files. Then again with this file. Got to the bottom it now. On browsers: Firefox - no issue Chrome - no issue Edge - you need to edit the extention to 7z when it stops downloading and just sits there

Ha yeah. I knocked off the caked on mud in the back of the bumper but that was about it. I’ve never massively been in to the cleaning part of car ownership. Would rather pay someone else to do it. But if there’s something to take apart and put back together I’m there!