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2003 1.4 TDI Fabia Break - 343000kms - it was the brake light switch in my case. I had the flashing glow plug light yesterday morning, put my OBDEleven on the case, which was a fail because the scantool wont communicate with my de-Googled phone....OBDEleven App wants Google Play Services, I loathe Google and won't have it on my phone. I got my six year old son to have a look behind the car, he reported no brake lights. I went straight to the switch, replaced it, brake lights work and glow plug light gone. Now to locate and dig out my old 2011 Samsung whatever, load the OBD Eleven app, and set it aside only for use with the scantool. Or maybe here is at last a use case for my old 2012 Asus Nexus 7 tablet...useless for anything since Android Lollipop update...maybe it becomes dedicated to the scantool? Your mileage may vary but it's worth a quick brake light check first if the glow plug light begins flashing at you......

And the cover plates for the discs.

Thank you, a lot of info that my old brain has to work with. Yes it was a kit I bought for the F2 VRS, from www.4yourdrive.de with 310mm discs, calipers and pads. So I I thought to mount the 288mm discs/calipers on the 1.2/12V. So I only need to buy a pair off steering knuckles/wheel bearing housings to mount on the 1.2.

Hi all, Been awhile. Hope everyone is keeping well. I was wondering if anyone knew, would a 'pump learn' be required on a 2016 Superb 280 after a Haldex motor pump replacement or is there an alternative method or practice to ascertain that the rear coupling is receiving ample hydraulic pressure to engage 4wd correctly? Many thanks,

Not sure on the superb but check front carpets and underfelt in case its the heater matrix. Trying to find a small leak can be tricky as it quite often drys up when engine warm. Look for dry crystal deposits etc epsecially around expansion tank in case its the tank cap seal thats failing. Alasdair

I think you mean 310mm/312mm rather than 300mm. The 288mm front brakes use separate brake caliper carriers, whereas the smaller 256mm front brakes use brake caliper carriers that are built into the wheel bearing housing. Therefore, when upgrading from 256mm to 288mm front brakes, the wheel bearing housing needs to be changed...as well as the front brake discs, front brake calipers, and front brake caliper carriers. The Fabia MK2 models that came with the 288mm front brakes that have at least 105PS. So lowered powered models have the smaller 256mm front brakes. The OEM part numbers can be obtained from a Fabia MK2 parts diagram, such as lllparts. However, the brake system (and build code) was changed for the 2011 model year and onwards for the Fabia MK2. So up to and including the 2010 model year the Fabia MK2 has build code 1LN for its 288mm front brakes...and from the 2011 model year the build code for the 288mm front brakes became 1ZC or 1ZD. 1ZC and 1ZD are the same except for the colour of the front brake calipers/carriers. 1ZD is painted red. 1ZC/1ZD is an ATE brake system. According to wikipedia, the Fabia MK2 1.4TSI VRS came out in 2010 (the 2011 model year) and therefore would have the 1ZD 288mm front brakes. I haven't added the 1ZC/1ZD OEM part numbers below, but I the below OEM part numbers for the 288mm front brake discs and wheel bearing housings would also fit the 1ZC/1ZD 288mm front brakes. 288mm front brakes (TRW brake system) (build code 1LN) 6Q0615123 brake caliper housing left 1LN 6Q0615124 brake caliper housing right 1LN 6Q0615125 brake carrier with pad retaining pin left 1LN 6Q0615126 brake carrier with pad retaining pin right 1LN 1J0615301R brake disc (vented) d >> - 24.05.2009 288x25mm 5/100 1LN 6R0615301A brake disc (vented) d - 25.05.2009>> 288x25mm 5/100 1LN 6Q0698151A 1 set of brake pads for disk brake 1LN+9U0 6Q0698151C 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake 1LN+9U1 wheel bearing housing for Fabia MK1/MK2/Roomster 288mm front brakes 6Q0407255S wheel bearing housing left 1LN 6Q0407256S wheel bearing housing right 1LN

Living in Ireland I just took delivery of my Enyaq RS been away from Skoda for a few years (previous cars 2 x Superb's and 1 Kodiaq). Have to say initial thoughts is I love the car, I know the software has got a lot of grief on-line but I am coming from a Volvo Ultimate XC60 PHEV and boy that has awful software (I hope I don't live to regret that statement). I have to admit to feeling anxious regarding range on a trip but I am waiting on my Powerpass card and hopefully between that and the navigation aid I should be fine in my upcoming trip to London for Christmas.

Mine (Elroq 60) was manufactured week 35, ready for delivery week 40 (actually had it rushed a bit to very end of week 39). VIN seems to be allocated very late in the process of Sales systems. Could it be due ensuring a customer contract is updated with defacto car for delivery (in case something happends in assembly or transportation ? Another note. I.e. Norway has VAT incentives running to the end of the year, which might put some priority to this market over others right now - sales are boosted these last months, and importeurs are trying their best to keep up.

As I changed the brakes of my VRS 288 to 300mm, what do I need to put these discs and calipers on our 1.2/12v HTP?

Good thread — every country you drive through has its own little rules to sort before you go, lights being one of them. One more worth adding for anyone whose route reaches Romania: since 1 October 2026 the Romanian rovinieta is fully electronic. No sticker for the windscreen anymore, it is tied to your registration plate and checked by cameras, so buy it on etoll.ro before you drive. The fine for driving without a valid one is no longer a fixed sum either, under art. 18 para. (2) of Law no. 226/2023 it is between 2x and 4x the 12 month tariff for the vehicle category. The Fetești–Cernavodă bridge crossing is free both ways now. I contribute to a free Romanian vignette validity checker, and you can check a car's current validity free here: https://verificarerovinieta.com/

Some damp patches on the driveway below the engine, but in this weather it's hard to tell what they are. I have moved the car slightly and will check again later.

no signs of this at all.

I would imagine that J519 is the LIN master, and the window motors both slaves, but not sure. On earlier versions driver's side motor was the LIN master, passenger side (and rears where fitted) are slaves and there was no data connection to J519.

@Ormy1at a guess, fuse 18 will cover mirror heating, adjustment or both. Nothing to do with the windows as far as I know. Separate wiring connects each motor's LIN connection to J519 (most of the way at least), so I would be surprised if a fault in that would affect both sides.

Just remember to tell your insurance company about mods otherwise you wont be covered. Most are ok as long as they arent power gains, then some get a bit funny. It depends how old you are.

Pete, I've had a quick look at the schemes you sent me for the Windows and they are very good and quite easy to understand. One quick Question thou. If fuse SB18 was blown or there was a broken wire to J519 (Onboard supply Control Unit) that connects to the LIN bus, would I notice any other issues with the car or is this unit only associated with the windows. @Alasdair1 - Thanks for the Info its really helpful. Working my way thru the schemes to eliminate anything that's not common to both windows.

Glad it was simple and you dont have to rely on bus now. Alasdair

Hi mate is there a chance you still have the correct software for the camera I have same issue but the seller doesn't give a crap about me and I don't know what to. I contacted him multiple times but nothing since. Thanks for response

UPDATE: It WAS the batteries! Initially bought 2x NEW Energiser Lithium CR2025s - inserted - no joy. Swapped for 2x Duracell CR2032 (slightly thicker, still fits) - Full Keyfob ops restored! Phew! (and don't buy Energiser batteries...)

Cheers CFB.

Had a look at https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/fabia/info/fusebox/2010#anchorfusebox4 and it seems that fuse 51 (drivers side plus rear left)and fuse 52 (passenger side plus rear right) are for door control unit so I assume they do windows. Alasdair

I have a Viofo 229pro. Excellent video quality, easy set up, will plug into the usb port on the mirror and many useful features.

There isn't a polish or film that reliably "masks" that kind of cratering. Once the outer surface is chewed up, light scatter in low sun is a glass problem, not a wipe or coating problem, so replacement is the real fix. On the MOT side it is worth taking seriously. Manual section 3.2 fails damage in Zone A over 10 mm, or elsewhere in the swept area over 40 mm, when it significantly affects the driver's view. Zone A is the 290 mm strip centred on the steering wheel inside the wipe pattern. Dense pitting that makes you almost stop in bright sunlight is judged on that "significantly affects the view" test, even if no single crater is 10 mm. Excessive scratching that hurts swept-area visibility can also go Major or Dangerous under 3.2 (c). For the vRS electronics: a proper ADAS-compatible screen for your VIN (right camera bracket, rain sensor, heating options per the PR codes) plus camera calibration after fit is what keeps Front Assist / Lane Assist working. Ask the glass fitter in writing that they will (1) supply glass matched to your options, (2) calibrate the forward camera with a suitable tool, and (3) confirm any radar alignment if your bumper pack needs it. That is the answer to the insurance "connectivity" worry, more than the brand of glass. If you want a second opinion before you book it, ask an MOT tester to sit in the driver's seat in similar sun and say whether they would class the view as significantly affected under 3.2.

With this variant of window motor, none of the other door functions use or even connect to it. Interesting that passenger window doesn't even work from its own switch. Fuse 11 isn't relevant for facelift mk2 windows; not sure which numbers the main window module fuses are, maybe not the same as mk1.

C pillar and top plastic edge of side trim which you would need to remove to install the torch holder anyway. C pillar clips on and trim is 4 Torx screws. It can be a little fiddly to replace but all very doable. The workshop manual describes clearly how to dismantle. I can send you the relevant pages if you don’t have.