All Activity

T think that it is only the 130PS version of the 1.5TSI that is a Miller cycle engine.

Not so sure, there will only ever be one "first" produced so it should be a good investment or an excellent tax liability mitigation. I doubt it will be driven far if at all. It was in aid of Ferrari's charity

Do you have a lot of speed cushions on the roads you drive? That sort of wear, if it's just in the inside shoulders as it appears to be, is characteristic of tyres that have regularly been rubbed on speed bumps when you straddle them.

Your tyre pressures are far too low... Hence the wear. I'd also suggest you get the tracking looked at if that wear was on the inside edge as it suggests a slightly toe out setting at the moment However, the key problem will be the pressures your using IMHO.

Brake light switch on cars of this age is just a Hall Effect device bolted into the end of the primary cylinder ("master" does not seem to be very PC these days) - there may well be another mechanical switch on the pedal to let the car's other controllers know that the brake pedal has been pressed - check to find out and spray with a suitable lub - without getting it on the pedal though! Edit:- the brake servo will have spring inside it, just a thought.

There are clearly some very rich fools about if they are happy to spend 40 times over the odds for something that ugly (IMHO of course)

EV PoweredFirst Ferrari Luce sells for $40m, almost 40 times its es...The first Ferrari Luce has sold for $40m at RM Sotheby's Monterey auction, almost 40 times its estimate, with every dollar of the price going to charity.

I have just replaced all four tyres on my 2018 Superb Estate 2.0i. I do average mileage (I am not a Rep) and mainly on country roads so low average speeds and local journeys. A couple of trips per year across to France and use motorways there. Front set were Nexens which were recommended here. Fitted in January 2024. Mieage not recorded. Rear set were Goodyear fitted in September 2022 - mileage 69889 km Current mileage 139,000 (average mileage??) I was a little shocked to see cords showing through on the Nexens right on the shoulder. This suggests low pressures?? I do run less then recommended due to the harsh ride - maybe 28psi -30psi unless loaded then increase to 30-32psi The Goodyears show very uneven wear from side to side on the same rear axle. What accounts for that? Somethindg seems a bit off. Maybe I will get the tracking checked. I have fitted Yokohams this time.

Amazon sell them. Not sure if will fit https://www.amazon.co.uk/Leather-Shielding-Waterproof-Universal-Protector/dp/B0GXKPQXXC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=JGAA6RHGL005&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WjAjp0G2BbpUKhGkR_VCF0dLxWHseIlPjqhW_f_tEc31CtrIirhozHqjuBYAp7pMflOppOfemVqx9ZDulvRvp1fij9KohDyG2fHPzwjIIB1HIr-N4ObRBHFekfZ022sCBW3babiMkhDaTHXKZN1vOwyt5qz_9ZkzgjqhEdU3QS0Sgbk0M6dJvdfyzMwvwJNfo2AGrXvo8p3-AXTzpLVSy8v4mk0ow1KB0L5NjU86Xo3uo5z82XFB2d9cqHEH55PRjDybMS0IgeQgzZxtOpu0VLcR0VeNYcRw0Zz8jrVgiZg.etK-emoAKBzdEneHJcwMZg5EZx_sVN2WvRHnx44ffK4&dib_tag=se&keywords=skoda%2Bcar%2Bkey%2Brigid%2Bbag&qid=1786873312&sprefix=skoda%2Bcar%2Bkey%2Brigid%2Bbag%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-1-spons&aref=BjaB0naEoF&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

The Service Agent asked me to try E5. The car is going soon and we will not be getting another Škoda or VAG car so their handling of this issue, and others, has cost them a customer.

TBH the issue sounds more like an intermittent connection or a dry solder joint either externally or internally... Presumably you've checked connectors and fuses etc as the fuse box is closed to the pollen filter you replaced so could have been disturbed? Otherwise a second hand headlight would likely be massively cheaper...

Thanks very much

I've bought 3 new Skoda since 2019 - took the discounts and the servicing every time then payed 'em off in the first 14 days - I never incurred any extra charge from VWFC but my bank, HSBC, charge around £20 for the draft - can't use a direct payment as there's a limit of £15k and VWFS won't accept 2 separate payments - other than that, it works fine. I did notice that Honda have a couple of 'gotcha' clauses to prevent anyone doing the same thing with their 'incentives'..........

Hi, I have just bought a 2023 Karoq auto but am disappointed to find the car does not creep to allow for slow movement parking.Yes I know, I should have checked during the test drive. Is there a setting I have missed? I have read we can cause damage to the clutches if we use the brake to "creep". Is that correct? Also, my 12 year old Mercedes auto will hold the car on a hill, perhaps on a queue of traffic, by pressing the HOLD feature but the Karoq will need the Auto stop feature turned on. Is that feature reliable? Seems twin clutch auto boxes need different treatment from simpler torque converter boxes. Still learning. Thanks in advance

It would appear to me that you need an upgraded oil cooler with thermostatic control to prevent overcooling on lighter loads.

Sorry I got it wrong then. Check online if there are any locksmith shops in your area which do car keys. Seeing the condition of your fob, it could be a consideration replace it entirely, and is not because of cosmetics: when the area where you press breaks, dirt and moisture/sweat from the skin goes inside and can ruin the electronics, far more expensive that the fob itself. While I have not done it on this car, I've replaced already 2 times in the last years to my father-in-law's Peugeot, he regularly breaks the fob (various problems) as he keeps in his pocket. Usually I buy an "empty" fob only plastic casing and transfer the board inside, as well as the blade (in his is hinged, more tricky because of the #$%#@ spring).

Maybe grounding the touchpad housing permanently could be a solution? Can someone less lazy than me try it out? 😁

It won't make you any happier, but the £880 price you've been quoted by Skoda for fixing the problem (that presumably would involve replacing the existing defective headlamp) is - as the 2024 CAT article (link below) highlights - not that unusual https://www.catmag.co.uk/features/led-lighting-replacement-cost and, In 2022 when I was considering buying a Hyundai i20N, I was reliably informed that the cost of a single 'full LED' headlamp for that model was around £1400. In 2015 I bought a new motorhome based on a Fiat-Ducato chassis. Its headlamps were the 'all halogen bulb' type, but Fiat also offered an LED equivalent that was MUCH more expensive. Within about a year, much cheaper 'aftermarket' headlamps for the bulb-type light became available, but, if an original LED headlamp failed or became damaged, it was (and still is) not possible to buy a less expensive 'copy'. Current Ducatos still have halogen bulbs for the main and dipped beam, but may or may not have a LED DRL. A 'copy' headlamp with no DRL can cost well under £200; a 'copy light with LED DRL (but no LED driver) can cost about £275; but an OE headlamp with LED DRL + LED driver is priced around £560. The CAT article says WhatCar?’s advice was very clear: “If you’re going to keep your car for many years or are buying second hand, we’d recommend avoiding models and trim levels that have sealed headlight units.” but this has become increasingly difficult to do as car manufacturers drop replaceable-bulb headlamps from the specification of their products irrespective of the trim range.

All Tesla Superchargers in Scotland are open to Non Tesla. Pretty good for travels to Dundee, Aberdeen, up the A9 at Perth, Aviemore, and Inverness, or on the West coast Fort William or Oban.

Might be coming from brake light switch? Alasdair

I can see where this might be a problem with a crowded bag - the centre button sits a little proud from the upper and lower ones. As you rarely use the physical key, how about using a small plastic box to keep the key in?

Was there air in system when you bled it. If so try bleeding again to see if there is any air in system again. It may be the brake master thats failing and letting air in Alasdair

a quick update - twin fan fitted, and this reduces the temperature of the oil very quickly when it hits 140C and I idle the car. Still having oil heat issues though. I have changed all sensors, heat exchanger etc, and am now thinking its the car that simply cannot cope with towing the caravan - even if it is below the maximum permissible weight stated. Water temp remains perfect still. Somewhat disappointed in the towing ability, and frustrated as to how to solve it now!

Calling dealer with VIN might not even work. They tend to only want to give part numbers out after you have paid for the items. I'll message you so that you can reply with VIN.

I'd definitely suggest seriously considering the heat pump option - the gain in range from more efficient cabin heating/cooling must be worthwhile.