All Activity

I find the warnings annoying. I've trained my regular passengers to know that the speed warning chimes are just the car 'being stupid again' rather than me exceeding the speed limit. And I strongly agree with @randomcastle that the autonomous speed control - when the car tries to follow those incorrect limits - is potentially dangerous. It's a neat trick when it works, but I stopped using it on the second day that I had the car. However, the settings on my car do allow this to be turned off as a permanent preference; I don't need to turn it off every time I start the car. I cannot recall where I made the change, but the online manual seems to show that the 'speed limit response' setting can be changed in the infotainment system... You might also want to turn off the 'road layout response' while you are there, although this is more of a personal preference. I find that it starts slowing much, much earlier than it needs to. In flowing traffic, the car in front will usually slow you down sufficiently via the ACC anyway. If there is no car in front, then I prefer to be in control and use the big pedal to reduce the speed to match the road conditions.

Tesla Superchargers not on here yet beside Turnberry and a Pumpkin festival on and busy. But some **** with an EV just uses the bay at the one DC charger. I needed a charge since I tried at Stirling park and ride and 3 out of 4 50 kW chargers were broken.

There is a moral to this story too. Few years back four new tyres fitted on the Monday - Tuesday morning start the car to go to work, low tyre pressure warning. Ignored as I “knew” better four new tyres all at correct pressure when I reversed into the garage the previous night. 200 yds down the road steering’s very heavy, stopped got out OSF nearly flat. Faulty valve. I no longer ignore warnings!

Speed limit warnings are 1 of several "driver assistance" features I have to turn off every time before I drive. I live in a pretty rural location and my 2026 L&K superb seems to make speed limits up. Even where an unrestricted sign is clearly visible it will say 20 is the limit. It's more than annoying, it's dangerous, causing the car to slow suddenly or accelerate to 60 when it thinks it's out of a ghost 20 zone if you are using ACC. I feel the tech has got a bit out of control. It wouldn't be so bad if the changes "stuck", but no, every time you start up you have to change a heap of settings. Is it the same in other cars like Merc or BMW?

I believe that the pad/bung should be removed and replaced with Audi-type lift pads.

Google has got me to here and it mentioned pab567 as the person to talk to about downloading the software fix for mine. Unfortunately I haven't made the '20 posts' limit to send a private message. Is pab567 still on the site?

Yes I can buy just the bushes and its an easy bolt-on job - according to AI

Don't forget, new parts can be faulty too.

Hi, can I buy just the bushes for the rear of the suspension arms and are they easy to fit please? Or is it better to fit complete arms at 85,000mls?

Stretching the thread a little here, but my worst bong was a week after taking delivery of a Polo. This was accompanied by the message "S6 Battery Critically Low". Pulled over & trawled the manual & internet for what S6 meant, without success. Car started OK so I decided to push on with the 75 mile journey home, fretting that the car would die at any moment, but it didn't. Next day the warning had gone. Then the penny finally dropped, it was warning about the battery on my Samsung S6 phone...

The worst bong for me is the washer bottle, which must be the loudest of all bongs. it can bong a minute after starting off, and then continue to bong at variably spaced intervals during the journey. Totally unnecessary. Surely the car's electronics must be able to sense that the car is moving after sounding the first bong, so why not just display the warning light.

I have a strange problem with my Skoda Karoq, when I drive alone, the steering wheel is on the left side, near the front right wheel, or the mudguard or the floor, I hear a knocking sound on the holes and speed bumps as if something is loose, as if the suspension is faulty, but the shock absorbers, mounts, bearings and support rods were recently replaced, the brakes are new and everything has passed the MOT, but it is still audible. What is even more incredible is that NOTHING is heard when someone else is sitting in the passenger seat. I checked the seat, everything is fixed, nothing is moving anywhere, and the sound is coming from outside. Does anyone have an idea how to fix it?

This figure seems to agree - this is from a different bit of the manual and looks like the lift is in from the sill seam. So I read that as meaning the sill weld is for short term jacking, eg for a tyre change, while the adjacent part of the subframe behind that is suitable for lifting during maintenance. I will use a bit of carcassing timber between the axle stand and the car to spread the pressure. I don't really understand what the plastic cover and the rubber bungs are about but they seem to be located just where the lift would go in this diagram. Seems an odd thing to do because the plastic cover would get mashed if it's not removed.

You get VAG jack pads, but they do sometimes require modification. If the slit is too narrow, it will peel away the undersea (if this hasn't already been done). If it's too wide, it won't support the pinch weld adequately. Common lift points are the front subframe (it's beefy) and the rear suspension points or beam. Again, make sure you have an adequate jack pad.

I know at the moment that these 2 items cannot be retro-fitted to a 2026 model Octavia. To anyone's knowledge is this likely to be possible in the foreseeable future?

Hi all, Finally managed to code my cruise control in! The issue I was having was being locked out of the ECU due to the fact I was trying to code through Security access on the OBDeleven App/ OBDeleven VAG App which was the only option available for coding on an iPhone IOS. I downloaded both apps onto an android pad and I could access Coding II to enter the 11463 code which worked correctly after the ECU timer had elapsed. I hope this helps people in the future as haven’t had much correspondence from this forum so there cannot be that much known knowledge using OBDeleven for coding on here.

Welcome, nice car.

When my MY27 arrived it had to be updated by the dealer and they had to disconnect the battery for an hour before they could proceed. That will need you to perform the steering angle reset after reconnection though.

Noise is also audible when the car is stationary with the petrol engine running, without pressing the accelerator. Would a normal turbo whistle be noticeable under those conditions too?

Is it not just the turbo whistling?

Hi, earlier this year I bought an Octavia VRS Mk2 estate. I was looking for a practical car with a towbar to take motorbikes to events as I didn't want a van. After keeping a very open mind, I had narrowed down the search to the VRS or a Superb 3.6. As the VRS was local, had a towbar, was nice enough condition I decided to buy the first car I viewed. I'm very happy with this car and will do a thread on what I have done and plans for the future.

Hi, I'll be adding more info and pics etc as I get them sorted (plus service history as much as I can find). Make & Model: Skoda Octavia VRS 2010 TFSI DSG Colour: Mileage: 146,000 (and increasing) Price: £900 ono (quick sale preferred) Description: Chain tensioner and turbo done around 2019 (lacking receipts for this). I've been driving this around for the last year or so with some kind of gearbox/differential bearing issue. had a light bump in july 2025 - bumper repaired to a professional standard. Let's start with the issues (in order of severity) Gearbox or differential bearing is making noise - you also get weird vibration/noise at between 2600 and 3000 rpm. slight misfire whilst the engine is cold with idle/very light throttle - problem is less pronounced in DSG manual mode. Oil Consumption: Yes Nothing crazy but running 5w40 it's a hell of a lot better than with 5w30. Car has been known to stall when braking once every few months (releasing brake and re-applying quickly stops it stalling). Rear driver's side window - motor sound but not moving (suspect snapped cable). Aside from these issues I think it's fairly sound, pulls well and is on the original clutch and DMF still. Car is insured until Nov. 16th, but Ideally I'd want it gone by the end of the month. Condition: Poor Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Just MOT'd STILL WIP as I gather receipts 29/01/2012 - 21,031 miles - Skoda Winchester 22/01/2013 - 40,359 Miles - Skoda Winchester 05/12/2013 - 60,147 Miles - Mid Cornwall Cars - Skoda Specialists 14/05/2015 - 80,460 Miles - River Valley Garage St. Austell 25/10/2016 - 80,460 Miles - River Valley Garage St. Austell 03/11/2017 - 105,412 Miles - D.G. Autos, Rockbeare (DSG Service here) 16/10/2017 - 113,902 Miles - Albrighton Garage Ltd. I purchased the vehicle in November 2018. 2019: (a lot of tyre swapping going on, potholes etc thus a lot of wheel alignment). uncertain date - receipt missing - new PCV fitted. uncertain date - Chain and Tensioner, Turbo, HPFP (used) - Missing receipts. 24/01/2019 - 115,083 miles - 4 wheel alignment 25/07/2019 - 116,697 miles - 4 wheel alignment + aircon regas 15/11/2019 - 118,536 miles - 4 wheel alignment 2020: front shocks (missing receipt) DSG oil change here? (volks autos - pending receipt) 03/12/2020 - 120,802 miles - regas and leak fix 2021: 28/05/2021 - 121,505 miles - oil change, rear shocks and all springs 11/06/2021 - 122,073 miles - bearing and ABS Sensor, also front shock. 29/06/2021 - 122,243 miles - tyre replacement injectors? (parts receipt only but I commented on a thread here when it was done). 11/10/2021 - 123,495 miles - MOT and bulbs 2022: 05/04/2022 - 125,477 miles - oil, filter, plugs 30/09/2022 - 127, 420 miles - MOT, oil, filter, brake fluid check 2023: 02/10/2023 - 130,825 miles - MOT, oil and filter 2024: oil change date TBC (receipt for parts only) 08/10/2024 - 1389,696 miles - MOT 2025: oil change just before this 20/08/2025 - 140,912 miles - new spark plugs late 2025 - Front driver's side wheel bearing (part receipt only) 2026: oil change - date/approx mileage TBC (receipt for parts only) Extras: DSG paddles? Mods: Stock - but the alloys are repainted in dark grey Collection: Yes Pictures: To attach

Hi Mark-Surrey, I had the one that sticks to the rear window. Yes they did do a tidy job. The camera was positioned in the top centre of the window just below the reach of the rear wiper sweep. There is a little loop from the camera into the roof lining. Hope that helps

This link is to a set of Skoda Fabia Mk4 tutorial videos, including one for the "Virtual Cockpit" (VC) https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/new-fabia-videos The specific VC video is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4-6j3XseEM A traditional pair of circular dials (rpm and speed) is possible (example below) plus many other variations. The Virtual Cockpit has a 10.25" dimension and a 2025 Fabia could have an 8" or 9" infotainment system (touchscreen). My understanding is that inbuilt 'navigation' is only available with the 9" touchscreen, but that should not prevent separate circular rpm and speed dials being displayed (as shown above) if the car has an 8" touchscreen. My 2024 Fabia came with a hardcopy (paper) Owner's Manual booklet - about 150 pages - that includes 'essential' advice for a new owner. That information is copied into a much more comprehensive (and less handy!) online manual that can be accessed through this webpage. https://www.skoda.co.uk/apps/manuals/Models

^^^ as above - but on or as near to a subframe mounting-point as possible.