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That is AC, Parks or Western for you. Try John Clark Skoda.

I better not, need to get used to all that brutal power increase before going for more 😂

Im asking if anyone has a link or contact, skoda dealers up here tend to be a bit weird at service and parts departments in my experience.. Also, are they the same size as different models? Kinda universal fitment as it were..

Well, started the car to go down town and got Automatic Headlights System failure warning. What??? Eeeek!!!!😲😲 Pulled mirror housing off and connector for rain sensor was out. Must have dislodged when tidying wires under head lining.. Reconnected. Working. Phew.

ETKA https://webautocats.com/etka/skoda Or 7zap https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/skoda/europe/

Anyone know an source for an online parts catalogue for the Karoq? With diagrams and part numbers. Thanks

I've had a rusting bearing wreck an ABS wheel sensor, it was on my 2011 Audi S4, for a few years prior to this failure, I could hear a slight scraping noise, initially only using that car after it had been left unused for a few weeks, then after maybe a mile or so, that noise stopped. Then it never stopped - then when driving it out of the garage to go for its MOT, the ABS etc lights came on, game over! So, what I discovered is, that all the bigger VW Group cars do not have any protection built in for the, at least, front, ABS sensor from road grit etc - small cars like Polo/Fabia/Ibiza have a plastic shroud to help avoid this to an extent. What does help, I discovered, is that if the wheel bearings "bleed" out a very small amount of the oil in the wheel bearings, hub and bearing inner face rusting is not normally an issue, if the wheel bearings do not "bleed" out any of the oil from the wheel bearing grease, then hub inner face and bearing face rusting can be an issue, especially when combined with only using that car periodically in winter weather. After getting the ABS sensor replaced by the MOT garage, I removed the new ABS sensor, cleaned its hole in the hub carrier out, then used a piece of dowelling cut at what I thought was a suitable angle and forced that down to contact the inner face of the wheel bearing - then rotated the wheel a few times in both directions, then applied lots of ceramic grease to the ABS sensor and refitted it. I examined the new ABS only a few days/miles after my MOT garage had replaced it, and it too had started to show signs of scoring - from contacting the rust on the bearing inner surface, so I'd expect that that new ABS sensor would have only lasted a few thousand miles if I had not cleaned up the inner face of the bearing. Getting access to that inner face to do a proper job on your car will involve removing the drive shaft - if you want to avoid a repeat of this issue. As said, you need to drive the car to clear the stored faults in some of the controllers even although you have removed the fault and cleared the ABS controller fault code.

Skoda?

Hi all, Im looking to change from chrome to gloss black the round badge and lettering on the back of my wife's fabia, does anyone have a link or contact for buying these anywhere, good quality ones that will last well and are original size?

Did Skoda apply any stone chip protection to the lower area of the sills as standard?

Worthwhile getting the kit with the oil filler cap as that pushes the combined increase closer to 15bhp. 😂

Hello, I've found this community recently and it seems like a blessing to me. I own a fabia mk2 from 2008 with no extra options on it, not even electrical mirrors. Someone mounted an aftermarket locking remote, I want to remove it from the car and mount the oe key with 2/3 buttons. It is possible ? Car has only 2 simple blade keys. Also i have mini dot instrument cluster and I want to upgrade to fabia 3, think is it possible ? How can I approach it, many thanks guys

17911 will certainly be a broken wire one side or other of the black 2-way connector pair on the bracket near starter motor. Access from beneath. That doesn't tend to put fault lights on other than ASR warning light 10 mins after startup, where fitted. Fuel temp sender is at front of engine, high up, I seem to remember.

Start with simple things; wheel nuts tight? Tyre pressures correct? Intermittent faults hard to diagnose. Discs don't warp - commonly it's pad material transfer to the disc. Hard braking followed by holding the brake on is how that happens. Beyond that - since you happy with the calipers / pads - I imagine you'd be looking at all the suspension joints / bushes.

You could get a set of 16" alloy or steel wheels just for winter use off ebay etc but bit of an expense for all the time there is a lot of snow. 195 tyres will be much better in snow than the 215. I managed to pick up 4 steel with part worn 195/65/15 for £100 a couple of years back for my octavia and stuck them on when bad weather was forecast. Alasdair

17911 may be a failed or failing voltage regulator on alternator or alternator itself. Check the wiring to it and also both the exciter wire and the one that goes to ecu. Check as well what voltage you are getting when car is running. Have had one in past that failed and was putting 15-18v output. Also check fuse box in engine bay for any signs of corosion/burnt terminals. Alasdair

Broken D3S xenon bulb holder!! The last few months I started to notice the beam of the right side headlight was looking a bit off, not as bright and a faint vertical line right in the middle where there wasn't much illumination. Initial thoughts were a failing bulb, which I only replaced approx. 2 yrs ago with LED ones, or the bulb was out of its holder/socket. Turns out it was the bulb holder that was broken!! It normally holds the D3S firmly in the socket with a twist to lock it in. Mine was sitting loose, hence the bulb was not in its correct position, resulting in poor light output. Somehow the bottom hinge had broken. Was not fixable, hence a replacement holder was ordered. Part No. 9FH 161 097-016 All fixed now. The right side beam is now as it should be, again. p.s. mine being a pre-facelift with SLA headlights (version B), it uses a different mechanism to hold the bulb. Version A headlights use the spring clip method. Broken one on left. Replacement on right. How it sits on the D3S bulbs....

Hello everyone! Can anyone help me find long coding for ECU 03 Brake Electronics Skoda Fabia 2011. Please see attached details Image removed due to vin visible. Please crop and attach the error code only

Hi all, fairly new to skoda ownership after years of vw. Recently bought a 2015 vrs tdi estate and occasionally I'm getting juddering when braking. Feels like a warped disc but doesn't do it every time I brake. Sometimes does it a low speed and sometimes from higher speed but no real pattern. It's a 2 owner car with fsh. Has had discs and pads replaced fairly recently before i bought it. All calipers are free, I've cleaned everything all pads slide freely etc and there are no ABS fault codes logged. Any ideas gratefully received.

The Kamiq owner's manual only lists the 16" winter wheel size for use with snow chains (with links and locks that are no larger than 13mm), ie. 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35...not the factory fitted 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40 wheel sizes. The alloy rims on 215/45R18 7Jx18 wheels have very little protection from kerbing damage (because the sidewalls don't bulge out much), so are probably best avoided if deep snow is hiding where the kerbs are. Winter wheel size (Kamiq) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 Factory wheel sizes (Kamiq) 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET40 215/45R18 7Jx18 ET39 Actual inflated width of tyre (measured from sidewall to sidewall, at the widest point) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 201mm 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40 208mm 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 214mm 215/45R18 7Jx18 213mm

Hello there. Recently had the check engine light up on my 2004 TDI Skoda Fabia. Friend of mine had a code reader and found two faults apparently. First one is 17911 Load Signal From Alternator Term. DF: Implausible Signal Second is 17571 Fuel temp sensor short to +ve / open error. Previously there also have been recent problems where I had to replace the battery for being drained and front lights several times for burning out. From what I've read both faults can be led back to faulty wiring or connector issues but the other problems make me believe the issue could be also with the alternator. Any way to check the cause without replacing parts?

Hi Everyone. I know this is an old thread - but I’m having a problem getting the aerial mast out. It turns only so far, then turns on the thread without coming free. When you say ‘yank’ it, how much of a yank are we talking about? Only want to replace the mast as the rubber has perished, and feel a yank might mess up the aerial base. Thanks.

Hello there. A new owner of an older car, here to learn a bit more about my car.