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Surely it's in Skoda's interest get this avoided during manufacture. It's all over the internet from way back. The trouble is you take the car as it is and no dealer will admit to being aware of the fault. I'm happy to settle for a Kia or a Mazda as that is what the dealer sells primarily .Mine was a trade in.....I wonder why!! My son works as an accident estimator for VW and looked at it soon after I had it, he thought it had a small prang around the left bumper/number plate. I also discovered that they had put new plates on and put the wrong reg. by one digit! So they were very humble about that!! Imagine if I had been stopped!?! My opinion of dealerships, particularly salesmen has not improved with this experience!! They are billy b**sh**rs!

Thank you what a palaver! Mine is a mark 4 I believe. It's still got Skoda warranty until March 27. I have not accepted this, I am not being fobbed off. Guess what though, I wrote a letter as advised by Citizens advice who gave me a template to start and my rights from the 2015 consumer act, so if bought the car between 30 days and 6 months I give them 1 chance at repair and if it fails I'm entitled to a replacement. I addressed my letter to the CEO of the motor group and lo and behold got a call the next day, and the following day a call to book the car in this wednesday! They had 14 days to reply but someone got a boot up the you know where!😅 So to anyone, do not give up, persistence and knowledge of the law go far! I mean obviously I'm not there yet but I feel that I will be.....

You’re stuck in a boot loop. Remove the unit, set it up on a workbench, and establish a UART connection. Check if the boot flash is still functional. If it is, force the device into emergency mode and perform a firmware reinstallation.

In the PQ vehicle platform, an active tire pressure monitoring system was extremely rare. The Yeti only featured a passive system that relied on the ABS. Retrofitting this would require adding a button, coding the ABS (provided it is compatible), and updating the instrument cluster.

2012 TPMS became mandatory on all new type approved cars EU. 2014 became Mandatory. 2015 became part of UK MOT.

In the case of VW and Skoda, the head unit cannot be used to drive speaker channels 5 and 6—at least, I know this for certain regarding the MIB 2 Standard, and it should be the same for the MHI2. Unlike Seat and Audi—which utilize an internal sound system (i.e., the sound system is managed directly by the head unit)—VW and Skoda have always relied on an external amplifier for these channels. Consequently, there is a hardware difference in the MIB 2 Standard: Seat’s circuit board features two audio controllers, whereas VW and Skoda have only one. Furthermore, the hardware circuitry for channels 5 and 6 is entirely absent from the VW and Skoda boards.

The many LR Defenders that are seen everywhere where built in Slovakia and have their loose squeaky doors and various other faultS. Who knows just how bad the Type 01 might be with it being assembled in Britain.

One Screen

Is the virtual cockpit not made of 2 screens side by side?

Thank you for your replies! I have already taken the car to a mechanic for an initial inspection. We checked the brake/clutch fluid reservoir while pressing the clutch pedal. There was no noticeable movement of the fluid, and we couldn't find any visible external leaks. The clutch pedal also maintained normal resistance when pressed repeatedly and held down for approximately 60 seconds. However, the problem still occurs intermittently while driving. Could the clutch master cylinder be failing internally, even without any visible fluid leaks? Has anyone experienced this and managed to identify the exact cause? Thanks again for your help!

Do you have an hatch or estate?

Yes, I experience that too, but very rarely and intermittently. Try pumping the clutch pedal? Keep us posted. Mine is same model as yours.

Likely to be a failing master or slave cylinder.

2014 Octavia 3 - 1.6l diesel greenline Pls help with an odd thing earlier today - I'm on the motorway and when I was in traffic it gets hard to select gears (harder for 1-4, easier for 5-6). By the time I've left the motorway and pulled over I can no longer select 1st and it's really hard to select the others. Once I turn off the engine all gears are somewhat ok again. To me this suggests the clutch was not fully disengaging? The brake fluid reservoir was full to max. I left the car for half an hour or so and when I came back, everything was back to normal. All gears are working smoothly and just fine and was fine like this for the rest of the day. The brake fluid reservoir looks to be at the same full level. This is the second time this has happened in about six months. It's almost like the hydraulic system depressurised after sat on the motorway for a while with no gear changes. But how come now it seems to be ok? What's likely to be failing soon?

@Alvin600 I can attempt to look up which parts are involved, using your VIN to make sure that only parts fitted to your specific car will be listed. I'll message you privately, so that you can supply the VIN to me. You're too new to start such a conversation, but you will be able to reply to my message.

Hi, I’ve had a bit of a result with this today. I got in the engine bay and as Papez diagram shows it was there behind the intake, two tiny screws and it was out. What I found was the one contact was touching so with a blast of electrical cleaner and a light flick up and separate the blower now works as it should. RESULT 🎉🥳🥂🥂

The current battery is 70ah. Standard fit is 60ah. I’ve seen a Yuasa 65ah at a good price and a recommended fit so I have that one at the top of my list. The current battery is over 7 years old having been fitted under warranty. I do really the dealer saying the battery is bigger but I can’t remember the details.

Its brand new car, just bought it. The goal is to keep it as long as possible, same to the 2018 Fabia. I use it mostly for driving to work only 30km motorway driving and 1-2 long trips per year (more than 500km motorway), I use the other Fabia for rest. I was thinking to do the first one in 5000km and then every 8000km (or 12 months if a year the car does not reach the 8000km), exactly same pattern to my 2018 Fabia. That's a good strategy, so the first oil/oil filter change in sub 1100 miles (1800km) on both of your cars, and then 7000miles (11 000km) or 12 months, whichever comes first!

Thanks, DerekU, for your prompt reply and confirmation that the Fabia has active shutters.

Provided it physically fits, fitting a larger capacity battery is not an issue as long as the vehicles BMS is adapted (coded) with the replacement batteries data.

I can understand there being different sized centre displays as happens with many different cars but it's puzzling having different sized driver's displays. Can't see the point?

I think the part's code is 6U0959263A (blower motor resistor) and 6Q0959263A (fan-heat resistance).

As far as I'm aware, all Skoda Fabia Mk4 cars (irrespective of age) SHOULD have adaptive cooling shutters. They were referred to in this February 2021 Skoda Storyboard relating to the then-new Fabia https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/skoda-fabia-covered-drive-press-kit/aerodynamics-innovations-increase-efficiency/ and the information provided reads as follows: Cooling shutters save up to 0.2 l of fuel per 100 km at 120 km/hThe addition of a new type of cooling shutter has been an important measure. These shutters are actively adjustable slats in the front bumper’s lower air intake. When there is little need for cooling, they close automatically, thereby improving the car’s aerodynamics. This results in fuel savings of up to 0.2 l per 100 km when travelling at a constant speed of 120 km/h. To allow for a high level of cooling or to accommodate short stops, the system opens the shutters so that the maximum amount of air can flow in. Also mentioned in this October 2021 Skoda Fabia link https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-fabia-setting-benchmark-in-its-segment Cooling shutters improve fuel consumption ŠKODA has installed cooling shutters in the front bumper’s lower air inlet – the first time this technology has been used in this vehicle segment. To improve aerodynamics, actively adjustable slats automatically close when there is little need for cooling. To allow for a high level of cooling or to accommodate short stops, the system opens the shutters so the maximum amount of air can flow in. To further reduce drag, a larger roof spoiler and side finlets optimise the airflow at the rear. At the front, the air is guided through vents in the bumper, known as Air Curtains, in a particularly aerodynamic manner close to the side of the body and the wheels. Twelve panels now cover a larger part of the underbody instead of three, especially in the areas that are crucial for aerodynamics, such as the engine bay and the axles. (I don't know exactly where they are or how they operate - there's nothing obvious I can see when I look through the bottom and top radiator grilles.)

Time to reach out for insiration and insight as we are looking to change our much loved 2012 CFGB 4x4 for a 2019 car hopefully as an upgrade. The only thing I can well do without is a pan roof but only due to the potential for water ingress, so advice from this Mk 3 forum would be appreciated. I have my eye on a diesel L&K 4x4 wagon with a decent spec inc heated/cooled seats, heated rear seats, heated steering wheel, surround camera, virtual dash, Canton sound, Apple car play, electric tailgate, blind spot assist, side assist etc etc. I would prefer another diesel but do like the idea of the powerful TSi, especially after Rick from RE performance did some tweeks on the green one, but I'm too old to play like that these days and the mpg looks to be a shocker in comparison however. All maintenance is done by myself, mine has been fairly trouble free and is way better than my previous 2005 petrol A6 Allroad 2.7 Bi Turbo which was a proper money pit in comparison, but fun to drive. One car caught my eye today online, but not sure on the colour, mind you the car I have now was bought for all the goodies it had fitted and certainly not the colour! I can live with it as I dont see it from the inside. DSG is on the radar for the first time too, my works VW Transporter has a DSG box, touch wood, seems to be reliable so far, but at only 40,000 miles and a two years old, not much to go on re lonevity. Thoughts and horror stories alike most welcome from you real world owners to illustrate what I am getting into. The Biturbo Passat was considered and dismissed fairly quickly due to lack of toys in comparison to the Superb and how much of a swine it is to work on should the low pressure hair dryer fail......

If you have a Nextbase dashcam you can get an OBD to Dashcam cable for between £19-25, this is for: Nextbase Series 2 models including the 122, 222, 222G, 222X, 222XR, 322GW, 422GW, 522GW, and 622GW (as well as legacy Series 1 and other listed variants like the 320XR, 380GW, and DuoHD) either direct from Nextbase or Amazon. If you have other cameras you can get similar cables from AliExpress & Temu for less than £10, you may want to add a OBD splitter adaptor if you do a lot of OBD port work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=nextbase+obd+power+cable&crid=V1ZR1DDGD57K&sprefix=nextbase+o%2Caps%2C134&ref=nb_sb_ss_mvt-t11-ranker_1_10