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I wish the hatchback had lights in the tailgate like yours … thinking of fitting something similar but need to work out how to switch them

Complete new headlight. ( not just a bulb change ) Did wonder if the motor was wrong level so with new headlight unplugged I lowered the other headlight on the dash control switched off then plugged in new headlight again hoping that when I restored the level. control the beam would rise but to my surprise the motor operated and lowered the beam to match the other headlight , so a new headlight goes to the same level as set on dash

Took my car to my detailer Just for an inside clean He ended up washing the outside of the car for me as well So we can see how much bodywork it needs And also cleaned the engine bay as well done for free to Nice base for me to keep on top of it 👌 And know what needs doing going forward

A true honest beast of a bygone era. I had to take the decision to part with the 78 as I failed to materialize my plans to travel around .... but I really liked it. Also very accommodating to work on ... everything straightforward. You might not need, but I do have workshop manuals and such (electronic), I can share if you want ☺️

Have a 2012 estate and today reversing sensor gave long continuous beep. Next time on the screen its jumping all over the place mainly middle to right hand side. I assume one or more sensors have failed or perhaps wiring. Whats the easiest way of removing and checking them plus is there a way of finding out which one or more thats causing the problem. They are the type that sit flush in bumper and are colour coded to match. Had a quick look but it doesnt seem that easy to get to them without removing bumper. I dont have vcds etc but is there a way of disabling them until I get it sorted or perhaps do without. Alasdair

Replaced top two boot lights, can now see everything yay Went with these https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwTWKJ0 which @ile7 said about the other day

could be water in underfelt. Check your coolant level in case its coming from heater matrix. Also check around spare wheel. Had water in there due to a grommet being missing. Alasdair

Thanks, will check it tomorrow morning. Ill let you know 👍👍

A repair-shop visit needed or a friend of yours may have a VCDS in his laptop or even an OBD11 which works with a smartphone. Even if you perform an ECU-reset by yourself if there is an error it will show-up again soon, it must be erased. The coolant sensor is ''OK'' if you measure his contacts, from outside may look good but maybe it isn't. Check the hose connection in the fuel pressure regulator and in the intake manifold. The throttle body must be calibrated and do some Kilometres in normal driving so the ECU ''will learn'' your driving style, a scan tool is absolutely necessary in that case. I have changed mine plus 2 ECU units and also i had a vacuum leak in the past.

And the aim moves at the same time? These bulbs are not easy to fit in my experience. They need a twist to completely locate in the correct position. Perhaps check this and compare to the other side. You can't see the bulb from the front which can help with this. I use a mirror from the back of the housing to check. Bulb goes up then beam reflects down? Thanks. AG Falco

@26DIPP at the start of your post you mentioned two options, one being the small foot option from the fabia... could you possibly provide any information for that particular part? I am currently trying to source parts for the same project and really struggling to find either a mirror which has autodim and is the twist on stem, or the style of mirror plus the mount from the skoda superb/octavia. i just miss my autodim and the mirror in my caddy is absolute poop because switching the switch moves the mirror so much all i can see is my rear seats. thank in advance.

I have been having the same issue, new firmware would be very appreciated

Hi. I had the same issue not long after I bought mine. It turns out that the contacts for the switch corrods/burns out. I bought a second hand good interior unit and de-soldered and fit in mine (the unit was white and mine was black)

Apparently after reading through a few other people's issues, there is a common problem with the passenger side door retaining water in the bottom as the drain hole gets blocked. Worth having a look ?

Tx30 for the tool. All six are actually visible from above, with suitable head positioning, the front two aren't as low as I'd remembered, so easier.

Amazing Will give it a go Haven’t got exactly what I want So unsure what I’m fully going to do!

Price dropped to £500 But will knock a good chunk off still for members 🤙

Workshop manual for Roomster with CBZB shows 6 fastenings (arrowed) for the heatshield, the two obvious ones on the top, two down the front, reachable from above but not super-easy. Then there is one either side, ringed in pink and orange on this image. On our car the one in pink was absent, and may never have been fitted, the orange one is a bit awkward to access, maybe a bit upward-facing and hard to see from above, mirror on a stick will help locate it. All either Torx Tx25 or Tx30, will check which shortly. All came undone reasonably easily on ours, but ensure Torx driver is fully engaged to the bottom of the recess, especially in any that have corrosion in there, before applying force. You may well be able to get enough wriggle room without complete removal, which really needs oxygen sensor (5) out, and oil line (screw 4) detaching to achieve. Removing top alternator fixing and tilting it forward away from the heatshield is also suggested. Hopefully releasing most of the screws will allow the actuator side of the heatshield to pull away far enough.

I admit I have been procrastinating and haven't got it repaired yet. How's the cold weathers have arrived the error message is intermittently showing every morning, but disappearing in the warm garage in the afternoon. I will hopefully take it to the garage next week.

Hi all, I'm hoping some of you Mk3 experts can help. I have a 2016 Octavia III vRS with the 2.0 engine, and my windows fog up on the inside really badly, but only after about 20 minutes of driving or longer. The first 20 minutes are fine. What I've already checked: - Plenum chamber drains under the windscreen (clear) - Boot seals and boot floor (no sign of water) - No obvious wet carpets in the footwells What I'm planning to check or have done: - Cabin/pollen filter condition - AC compressor running and recirculation off - AC evaporator drain - Hidden damp under carpets or mats Has anyone had this on their vRS and found the cause? Any hidden leak spots or known faults I should look at, like the heater matrix or scuttle seals? Happy to post photos if useful. Thanks in advance!

Will try tomorrow thanks can anything connected to fuse 7 pop it when the ignition is switched to accessories if so could I potentially have a list not a lot on google which I can find

Absolute legend 🤙

No I don’t think so. Just check the colour code is correct. Might be best to pop one of yours off and have a look at the sticker to get exact match.

Might be worth a shout that Decent prices as well! Doesn’t matter it’s facelift though I’m assuming for boot panels?

Many thanks for the response. I'm hoping it's not the turbo and only the actuator, as there are no other fault codes. I can move the rod side to side, but take the circlip off and give it a proper test. I heard about the shim solution, but this one does not have one, just the body attached. I checked with Skoda UK, and there are no recall campaigns for the car.