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I've used Aerotwin for as long as I can remember on a variety of cars. I put a set on my '25 Karoq last week, as the originals had started dragging. They were more of a wrestle than previous vehicles, especially the nearside which needed tapping onto the arm. Never had that before but may be down to the stretch to reach that one when in the service position.

Its the button with a picture of a car with the door open. It should be pressed in to be on.

Hello @milloo24 , Congratulations on your work with the retrofit! I have couple question regarding the actual behavior with both rear fog lamps steady on: Can you share a backup of adaptation on BCM unit? Is your car RHD? I'm working on finding out how to enable both on my car, which is a LHD vehicle. Based on the investigation I did so far it seems that this is a wiring harness tweak. Can you confirm you have connected both: T6y/5 and T6x/5 (NSL signal) to BCM: T73a/72? Thank you

You shouldn’t have to raise the bonnet, if you put the wipers into the service position you will get access to change them. Please see attached image

I can confirm those are the correct ones. I've fitted those to both a 2021 and 2024 Karoq. They can be a tight fit though...

@Bap33 just a note of caution, revving up a TDI until 15k RPM might bring other foreseeable troubles .... 😁😜 Doubt will arrive at 20-30s 🤪

What a clever idea! Carshades are fantastic product, but the "clips" that hold them are problematic ... I got one car that keeps losing them, and in another they scratched the window tint ...☹️

Thank you! I´m sorry but I didn´t take any pictures, But I suspect a badly crimped connector that I have not really found yet since the loom was hard to get to under the dash. I just put a new fused 12v connection to the 12v input of the J527 Steering Column Module. Good thing to know though is that you can´t cut the old cable because then the dash won´t have any power. I learned that the hard way. But it works with just splicing a new 12v power on to the old one, preferably by soldering and heat shrink. I had also confirmed that no short circuit had done this.

I have not seen any damage to the loom it self actually. Not the parts that I could access.

Mine went in for them to investigate and I showed them exactly what was creaking and demonstrated that taking the load off the window frame by pressing the window down button for a fraction of a second resolves it on the drivers door (doesn’t on the passenger door however). Škoda are going to apply some factory grease they say. It’s booked in next week. I suspect that it will cure it for a couple of days only….. It’s not an issue with the window guides. It’s 100% caused by the top most part of the seal (where it’s textured/flocked) rubbing on the door frame. When the window is fully up it distorts the door frame slightly and this causes the seal to rub. Like I said, easing the load on the frame by pressing the window down button so that the window is not open at all but the load is removed, stops it on my drivers door. Trouble is the app then reports a window open. I’m going to get the seals replaced either under warranty or pay for them if the grease doesn’t work….

Impossible to know for definite what independent garages would include in what service as each might be different. Best is to use the list I emailed you as a guide and ask the question of the independent. Word of mouth recommendation from other people is the best way to find a reliable garage. Where abouts are you based? There may well be a member relatively local to you who can recommend a garage.

Thanks all for your reply. The reason I need to make sure I'm always up to date with manufacturer intervals is due to having motorpoint warranty on the car. Covers MOT failure. Only can get it done at Vat registrated garages. I know I can use VAG specialists that's what I'm trying to figure out the questions asked. Trying to keep it valid and at the same time keep costs down. Using secret services via bookmygarage there's not alot in it. The brake fluid change is £50 on the website above. would anyone know the differences ie my questions. Major service was done in 2024 which included the filters. It's a 2019 Škoda Superb 2.0 TDI CR 190 Laurin & Klement DSG, 5-door hatchback, Leeds uk based

hi i retrofitted rear full Led lights Octavia mk4 2020 Hatch RHD couldn't find complete guide + no harness on market + i am beginner so maybe some steps are not correct you need High BCM module parts Rear Light Left Inner TOP LED 5E6 945 307 A Rear Light Right Inner TOP LED 5E6 945 308 C RHD Rear Light Right Outer TOP LED 5E3 945 208 A Rear Light Left Outer TOP LED 5E3 945 207 A Flat Contact Housing, 6-pin 8W0 971 636 D x2 Flat Contact Housing, 6-pin 4H0 973 713 x2 T73a/71 T73a/60/ T73c/27 T73c/8 are already there from basic LED so I laid T73a/65 T73c/10 T73a/25 connected according to the diagram than you need change dataset in BCM subsystem address 7204 DA_009_7204_5EN_A002_XXXSBBRBASIS_8VG to DA_009_7204_5EN_A002_XXXSBBR8VQXX_8VQLED in VCtool i found backup car which support rear full LED Hatchback,RHD even same dataset number than i requested his stock data for BCM i got merged dataset ticked 7204 and ran flash after flash start BCM adaptation and all 4 lights to installed was getting error when lights was switched off then all lights started working but there was still error with reverse and fog lights had to do some coding with old basic LED BCM pins 72+64 after that no error but probably there is still something wrong because i have 2 fog lights should be only 1 on right side will sort later

Perhaps. If the trim looks structurally sound, my honest advice would be to just leave it, or replace it. Anything you do is going to upset the surface, and possibly speed up the degradation process. IPA might help, but it also might dry it out and eat into the rubber. Trim restorer, similarly, will just sit on top, and will probably adhere to some parts better than others. You may also have luck with heat, or you may just burn/melt/shrink the rubber. If it were my car, I’d quit while I was behind and either replace, or leave. Anything you do will likely just make it worse.

My manual seems to indicate that my 1.5tsi petrol Technology has interior courtesy lights but I am damned if I can get them to function. Reading lights... Yes. Go off and on with ignition but an interior light that comes on when you open a door and goes off when you get in or start the car... NO! I've tried all switch combinations (I think) to no avail. Help appreciated. Footwell lights are on. Crazy.

Ha I haven’t added that much! No not wanting to change. Just browsing and daydreaming!

I also replaced the original battery on my ex Superb Estate Mk3. Same coding with 11111111111... 🙄

@Binx1310 With all what you've added to yours. Is there any Mk3 more specced than yours... 😉 Already want to change?

Hi, IMHO, all these things were standard spec on L&K, except surround camera and heated steering wheel. I used to be a Superb Mk3 Estate TDI190 L&K 4x4 DSG6 (MY2018) for 7.5 ish years and 136500km (coming from a Superb Estate Mk2 TDI140). I had water ingress problems with the panroof on the Mk2 (sunroof frame cracked 😱). As I bought my Mk3 while it was already on the assembly line, I did not chose any options. I took it as it had been specced, i.e.: with a panroof. No need to say, it was a bit of stress... Fortunately, I had no water ingress issue with it. BUT I used it as less as possible, and I was really careful with speed bumps and sidewalks so that panroof chassis had to face very smooth stresses variations. The only issue I had with the panroof, is the seal of the rear glass panel, which cracked after 6 years (probably because my Mk3 slept outside for its entire life). It was probably burnt by the sun. I nevertheless treated seal with silicone spray before each winter. No panroof was one of my criteria when I looked for my current Kodiaq Mk1. I perfectly live w/o panroof, It has been 19 months last week, but I stilI hold strong. 😁 Additionally, I had 2 issues: Waterpump failed at 62000km, a known issue. Skoda France granted me an extra warranty though the normal warranty had already expired. I only had to pay 10%. Front shock absorbers started leaking at 95000km, also a known issue. The dealer made a 15% bargain though warranty was well over... This being said, I liked my Mk3 though.

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The passenger side seemed too fat to fit & I didn’t want to bend the wiper arm, I’ll try again tomorrow with the bonnet up to see if I can get more leverage

I found a mHev Ford suv we hired in New Zealand to be quite frustrating to drive. The small battery soon filled so the retardation recuperation would suddenly end partway down a hill and the braking characteristics changed without warning.

True! Think I will stick with the one I’ve seen. Deffo didn’t want a pan roof due to previous experience with a U boat Audi. Never again.

The trouble with later facelift is you then get MIB3 infotainment which tends to be buggy, and also ADAS becomes more intrusive.

I’ve seen both of those, good specs on both, but early facelift with Gen 3B, not a deal breaker for the right price I suppose. No similar car, private sale.