All Activity

Think 700 and rising to 1200 is perfectly normal so injectors are sealed and pump is doing its job. I have just read it could be a pressure spike due to a sticking n276 valve when restarting car. According to google to check let it build up to 1200 and start car while reading fuel pressure data at same time. If it spikes really high 2000psi or above it may well be a sticking valve and dumping too much fuel into engine until the pressure levels out. Its a bit beyond my experience but worth a look. Alasdair

On one Skoda headunit I had it was a four digit code stuck to the back of the HU on an old style price label.

https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.66.zip

Back in July/August, I did some OBD tests to monitor coolant temperature too, and those came back fine. The coolant temperature readings matched what I was seeing on the dashboard gauge, and the rise in temperature was normal/linear and consistent with the driving type. Warmed up fine during slower town driving, then started to drop when driving at faster speeds and therefore more airflow. The over-cooling also seemed slightly stronger when the aircon was on - second fan causing even more airflow in the engine bay, perhaps?

I have a 1.4 yeti 4wd 2016, 130000 miles, it has a continuous rumble which increases with speed , sounds like a wheel bearing and it is also present while coasting. I do a bit of DIY but i wouldnt tackle complex stuff, Ive just jacked car up on each wheel and couldnt find any play or noise when turning by hand. If it not the wheel bearings where would the next area be to look please?

it was the only part that showed age. I expected the water pump to be shot cos I'd overheated and HG went. That was perfect. The belt looks brand new, no cracks at all. Bearings and rollers looked ok but I guess they're more difficult to tell. I'm going to get an INA kit

Might be worth checking actual coolant temp against what the coolant sensor is sending to ECU. Think VAG group use dual circuit sensor so one does dash and the other sends info to ECU. If its failing when hot then it could be sending wrong info even though the dash says 90 degrees. There not that expensive so might be worth changing to see if it makes any difference. Got to be easier than accessing the DV+ Alasdair

I've used these for radio codes a few times. They charge about £15-20, but are spot on to deal with https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ The rear wipers have a weird attachment, they seem to be expensive anywhere online, our local parts factor (Parkers - https://thepartspeople.co.uk/#Branches), had them on the shelf and were no more expensive than any other wiper blade.

Ones on my old Skoda octavia were pretty good they looked like a spline fitting but the one that snapped was on a SEAT which had more of a pattern that locked in place which as I found not nearly as strong. Alasdair

thats not good. Reckon there belts are good but there cheaping out on the other parts. Bit worrying as mine are gates as well. Alasdair

Sorry - I note that the advert I referred to in my last posting does NOT include the spare-wheel!!! The Skoda part number for the spare-wheel (including tyre) is 6V0601011M and should be available for around £215. (Delivery charges extra.)

It's 40 degrees Celsius in the sun here, and the problem suddenly arose. My Skoda has 74,000 kilometers on it. I don't know what to do. I could go to the mechanic and ask for a lube... but where exactly? Have you solved it by any chance? Thanks.

“Just a diesel engine after all. IMO.” I take it that your comment is ironic? Although you can never be too sure these days!

I just went for a little drive to get the car up to temperature, then restarted it after 30 seconds or so to check that it still made the chugging/stumbling sound. It did, so I restarted the car, monitoring the fuel rail pressure with the OBD gadget. It idled at around 700 psi, then after I switched the engine off, the pressure gradually began to climb to 1200 over the next 5 mins or so. Google Gemini tells me that is the sign of a healthy and sealed HPFP and PRV, and that it would've likely climbed a bit more if I had monitored it longer. Also says that a leaking injector would've also caused the pressure to drop, rather than climb... suggesting that they're likely fine too. Does that sound accurate? Given these results, Gemini suggests that the prime candidate for the chugging sound is the GFB DV+, sticking/binding when the engine is warm. I'll see if I can get it swapped for a 'Rev G' and check if there's any difference.

Thank you AnnoyingPentium

Thank you dieselV6

Thank you Alasdair

Eon Next EV tariffs Next Drive or Next Drive smart are showing Offpeak back to 7 hours midnight to 7am for those going on these tariffs. It had been 7 hours and then reduced to 6 hours.

Thanks for your reply. Is it the fuse that’s under the glove box, behind the panel above the passenger footwell? I have had a problem with the electrics on the towbar not working on 13 pin, but fine if I put a 7 pin adapter in. An auto electrician had the loom out trying to sort that problem but couldn’t. It may be a loose connection there. I will check that out and post back with the result. Cheers Skiprat.

@Ooopnorth You asked best oil, pitty you never said 'Topping up'. If 0w 20 FS IV was used at the last Oil & Filter service then you should really top up with that. Not that a little different spec of oil will make a difference, just a diesel engine after all. At next service 0w 30 FS III might well be the way to go. As to Brand, matters not a jot as all to the Recommendation Spec does the job. Just a diesel engine after all. IMO.

Checking Your Version Turn on your car's ignition and go to the Menu on your infotainment screen. Select Settings, then look for System Information or Version Information to see your current firmware build. ?

Just bought 1 Ltr of Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30 to keep in the back of the car should a top up prove necessary (no signs yet, thankfully) 👍

Come back at 40,000, or say 140,000. I think the complex procedure is about maintaining the long service intervals. Eg 300,000km belt change interval. I would agree that this will probably work in most cases, but its a bit of a botch job. Cam timing may drift a bit due to inherent tension imbalance between the cam pulleys and crank etc. Also, by loosening the pulleys and tightening the belt before unlocking the cams, you are ensuring the tension is consistent or at least correctly distributed around its length. By doing this, they can run the cam belt out to 300K no worries, probably even longer. Remember many cam belts had 100k or even 60K intervals (thinking Opel Corsa from early 2000s.) Probably more importantly, change the idler. The bearing in the idler is the most common failure I have seen. Obviously junks the belt thus engine when they fail

TDI is VW 508 00 / 509 00. Same 0w 20 FS IV, but VW 508 00 is TSI Fixed or Variable. TDI VW 509 00 is even if on Fixed Oil & filter service. Same with the 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III. 504 TSI fixed or Variable. But 507 00 is a TDI even if Fixed Oil & Filter servicing.

if 88 in xour nick suggest you are born in 1988, than you are to aged to have stiff car suspension. it will become unconfortable. if you like it, go on, aif not, stay with basic B4 which are like OEM.