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Thanks for this, but that claim is misleading and so full of contradictions that you cannot realistically believe a single word of it. This extract alone is a pretty good example of the poor quality of the article. "While the EVs’ gains reflect rapidly improving technology, the greater availability of charge points and increased availability of electric models - in 2015 the EV options were primarily small cars - the company also points out that the mileage driven by petrol cars has been falling since the pandemic. In fact the average annual petrol mileage is down 12 per cent over the decade, which among other things Cap hpi attributes to more home working reducing the need for commutes, and the rise of online shopping, meaning cars are left on the drive more often." So are they seriously suggesting that working from home only applies to workers who have a fossil fuel-burning car? Come on, get real and stop grabbing at any headlines that seem to support your love of EVs as proof that ICE cars are falling from grace. Let's examine what we all know to be true: the vast majority of EVs (by EVs I mean BEVs) are, in fact, purchased as company cars, and these will fall into two broad groups: 1 - those that need a car to do their job and 2 - those that have a company car either as a perk or a sign of their rank and position with a company. In other words, company directors and senior management, or those who have used a salary sacrifice scheme. Those in group 1 will be doing miles in their car on behalf of the company and will have replaced fossil-burning cars in that capacity. Those in the second group will likely be those who can work from home, and that would apply to EV and ICE owners/drivers alike, not as the RAC seems to suggest ICE only.

Which TRW and Ferodo brake pads are used for the front and rear of the Scala? 1.0 tsı 2020

Have a search of the forum, there's a few people who've raised this previously. I had seen a couple recently where someone had followed the path 1664 > 1941 > 1985 without any issues. I had also seen someone go direct from 1664 > 1985. But if you're at all concerned about doing it, or not confident then it may be easier to take it to a dealer. As your car is on a very early infotainment, it's very likely there are other modules that would also benefit from an update such as the OCU.

Hi I now only get the warning on the dash cluster and the dings when the glovebox is open which I can live with. I cannot find anything else I can do to stop it.

@Justo Did you get your windscreen issues resolved?

There was a post on here a while ago from a member who had their windscreen replaced. After it was done the windscreen wipers were randomly activating. It looked to be because they'd done a messy job with adhesive around the cameras. Here's the link: Link to forum post So I think you need to use the photo you've already got of the camera area, and then make sure it looks identical after they replace the windscreen or you could have issues.

Negative electricity rate in the middle of today. Sunday looking good to for zeroish rates. Interesting fact, Henry Winkler did not ride motorcycles, also Daniel Craig has only got an automatic car licence !!

Older report from the RAC... https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/electric-vehicles-news/what-range-anxiety-ev-drivers-rack-up-more-miles-than-those-using-tradition/ But newer one using Solera CAP data, 1.8M sample size from last year.. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/366358/evs-are-officially-covering-more-miles-ice-cars EVs do over 5% more miles on average.

Sounds like you've got some wiring damage somewhere that's shorting a permanent live to chassis when wet. Ensure scuttle drains are flowing freely as a first step, and inspect loom sections within scuttle while you're in there. There aren't any relays associated with power steering, but the PAS does take large currents when in active use, so you're hearing other relays cut in and out as the voltage drop affects them. Indirect symptom of battery at low state of charge.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q=Lowering%20Springs&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=299&start_after=any&updated_after=any

Hello guys . Does anyone have the ORU3 - OCU - SW0311 – Octavia (O3A8) software file where I can download myself ? My SO4 OCU is running an very old firware and I want to install a new version since I cannot become primary user at all Thank you

You can use inline oil/dye injector can, basically an openable metal can plumbed inline or via a tee with gas. you fill the can with oil and then pump gas through it making sure oil goes with the gas. The nice thing about using this way is that you can also vacuum impurities from the new oil, just make sure the new oil stays in the can while you pump the system out. There exist also standalone oil injection kits (think high pressure syringe), but I'd steer clear of these as it is too easy to reintroduce air/moisture. As I had said earlier, another oil/dye injector can filled with filtering paper in it can be used for opposite purpose, i.e. extracting oil from the gas. One other thing I remembered about the job is that to get really good vacuum from the budget vacuum pump, you need fresh oil in the vacuum pump, in my case I emptied the system, closed off the pump, changed the vacuum pump oil again then ran it and then reopened the valve to the pump. I was able to get a lot better vacuum in that way, I think some of the remnant gases / vapours dissolve in vacuum pump oil and make for poor vacuum. Vacuum oil is not expensive, just mentioning it because it's worth getting a 1l bottle before the job.

Its my sons car and I change oil annually. He does about 5 to 6 k a year but tend to give it an annual service just before MOT. I drive it randomly and cant say I have noticed any major rattles or noises. Was just a bit paranoid but reckon will leave it and keep an ear out. Alasdair

I've tried in any possible way to remove it in mine, both using VCDS and OBD11 and it proved an impossible task. Gone in all the menus "predictive sailing" et al. and nothing. I got recently the habit of driving in manual mode, since the logic of the gearbox upshifts and downshift is simply idiotic, so don't bother me much the coasting ... The few times I want to ride in 'auto' i put it on sport, or in the other modes I use the gearbox in sport, and upshift 'manual' when it lingers too much in the gears. I hope someday to make a TCU tune and hope some wizardy is able to make it gone. Since this is a sensitive topic, I remark this is "me", in "my" driving in "my" car. To each their own! 😉

Thanks again, as the refrigerant cans are pressurised, how do you get the oil in separately?

I did read that a failing leaking HFPF pump can cause long crank when cold as well as 2-3secs delay when warm. Might be worth getting fuel pressure checked to see if its dropping. If the GFB valve is easy to access might be worth removing and checking its not sticking or needing lubricated. At least that would rule it out. Alasdair

The oil in "airco topup" kits is of unknown quality (unlikely to be synthetic/durable), usually contains dye and sealant. In large quantities, it clogs the system, expansion valve in particular, which really is a dog to clean. There is also way more oil in these kits than is needed for a full refill. Much better/easier to measure the correct amount of synthetic airco oil, it will last a lifetime if no further leaks and protect the system from wear. I used Denso DND12250 or ND-oil 12. Expensive at over £20 per small can, but considering I also installed a brand new Denso compressor at the time, worth the extra peace of mind. As an aside, for compressor replacement jobs (not this one), I think Denso ones are worth it despite much higher price , better compressing and much better overpressure valves than cheap Chinese substitutes. If there is even momentary overpressure or blockage, the valve on compressor will dump excess oil / gas but otherwise no damage / nothing to write home about. Compare this to once-only, cracking overpressure valves of lesser alternatives that basically require you to get a new valve (or a new compressor!) every time the pressure spikes. In DIY scenario, paying more for a decent compressor makes for lower long term expense. Condenser / dryer is less critical, Denso ones are again good, but a tad pricey. I have used a Ridex condenser/ dryer from Autodoc at half the price of Denso, works same as OEM, though I had to file slightly one of its aluminium mounts to get it to fit properly. HTH.

I bought mine on 52k and got it to 120k (and those were hard miles for it) before the chain went, although it had been rattling beforehand and some idiot (me) ignored it... Edit - Changed oil on it between 8-10k miles normally.

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It could very well be a mix of things. I'm not sure if you have logged your DPF activity, but this could be very telling about the issue. A DPF regen on a healthy engine with no oil consumption will look something like this: You have a measured soot value and a calculated soot value. The regen of the DPF starts somewhere around 25g measured OR calculated. However, usually the calculated soot value raises faster and ultimately triggers the regen. This is dependant on the driving porfile, but you could say a normal regen interval is somewhere between 155 miles - 450 miles. Yes, the range is actually this wide. As an example, the measured value might still be at -0.3g (yes, actually in the minus. After a regen, this value often times is aroung -12g) while the calculated value is at 25g which triggers the regen. I've experienced this myself on my Golf 7 GTD Variant with the same CUNA engine. Oil consumption is high, regen interval is around 30 miles and the measured value always shot up and triggered the regen. We ended up replacing the DPF as it was clogged prematurely from the oil consumption. After the replacement, the interval increased to normal levels and the calculated value triggered the regen again. But not for long, as the calculated value started to raise faster and faster, as the oil consumption got worse and worse. So the DPF got clogged quite fast again, even after the replacement. Ultimately this is to be expected. Also noteworthy, after replacing the DPF, the oil consumption worsened. This is likely hinting towards a broken turbo due to the change of exhaust backpressure after the DPF replacement. Since my GTD had around 210k miles on it already and I've poured quite a lot of money into it already, I decided to sell it and not tackle the search for the oil consumption. At this point it really depends on your budget, how much you love the car and if you're able to get it diagnosed and perhaps sorted for a good price. I really don't want to paint the devil to the wall, but out of all the common things wrong with the CUNA, you could be looking at needing to replace the piston rings, turbo, DPF and worst case, if the cylinder walls are damaged, even a replacement engine. Other factors that would be cheaper to attempt and daignose first that could also lead to an increased oil consumption would be the valve cover, which houses the crankcase ventilation module. If the crankcase ventilation breaks, it can lead to increased oil consumption as well.

Thank you for that, very comprehensive answer, I may look at doing it through the winter ready for next summer. Not in a rush as the weather here has started to change, Autumn/Winter comes early up here. I may ask around meantime to see if any of the garages (limited choice) would be willing to recharge it after I've replaced the condenser. I see complete kits on Amazon inc pump for about £180. A question, why would you need gas without oil? Then get the oil separately. I figure even if it costs £300+ for DIY I will have saved over £400. Shouldn't be a problem removing and refitting the condenser, (I trained as a mechanic looong before a/c on cars).

So that would explain the high oil consumption. Do you think the DPF regen issue is totally unrelated?

Usual suspects on the CUNA are the piston rings, specifically the oil rings that like to clog form long-life oil services. They coke up with oil coal and get clogged. That way the oil that would otherwise just be "wiped" away now gets burnt. Most of the time you can't chemically clean them anymore, so you actually need to pull the pistons and replace the rings. Then hope that the cylinder walls still look alright. The other mentioned suspect would be the turbo, depending on the mileage and how its been driven. However the piston rings are a common thing on the CUNA. The CUNA specifically really is a horribly designed engine when it comes to that. Poor thermals and pistons oil rings that have holes that are too small and like to clog easily. Mix that with the poor thermals and long-life services and you get this as a result. Its basically the entire 1st gen EA888 1.8 TFSI story all over again.

Did you use the pro lift tiguan kit 🤔