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I did before lowering etc. Forge 11mm front and rear with longer bolts in one set. Standard wheels and suspension at the time of those photos.

It is not possible to talk directly to the Skoda warranty department, only the extended warranty department who can't help. Your only port of call is customer services but even when you reach management level they have no control over warranty claims. I have plenty if emails from customer services but you will not get one from warranties. They only deal direct with the dealership who can confirm things to you by email. They win, it's wrong, but they win and now that the ombudsman is on their side they always will.

You can only go by what is stipulated in the body protection warranty regards what you are required to do, which is report the corrosion as soon as it is found (to a dealer in the network). Nothing changes the fact that your warranty is with Skoda. Skoda can contract out aspects of its business to third parties if it wishes. However, you don't have a decision until you have the decision in writing from Skoda. Email Skoda and get a response by email if necessary, don't phone. In regards to the Motor Ombudsman, my experience is that after a year, you get a response from an Ombudsman understudy type. You do get a decision at that stage, but if you want an actual ombudsman to look at it, I am at 3 years total currently and still waiting.

Hi Can anybody help? I have a Skoda and enyaq 22 plate full Electric car was involved in accident repaired the car. I changed the fuse at the battery underneath the car had an electrician look at it but couldn’t start it. I changed the two Roofer bags. Seat bag got the seatbelt reconditioned. Only thing I haven’t changed is the Airbag module the electrician said that there’s no communication to get it started. I am quite stuck. Don’t know what to do. Can anyone help?

I wish there was, I still got mine to fit

Update: Since I've been using E5 fuel no issues whatsoever. Thanks for advice everyone.

Been a minute, sorry. I got some mild confidence and tried to weld that patch in, but the sill is just tissue paper, I can't get any weld on it without it blowing itself to death. I'm going to cut my losses and buy two complete outer sills and go mental with the angle grinder. I do wonder if I need to brace anything first though. That job being trashed I figured I'd get it off axle stands for a bit. So my neighbour and I started bleeding the brakes, that's when we found out both rear wheel cylinders were seized, yay. Better than that, the bleeder on the back left just went PING and sheered off. Yay. The BESTESTS thing was that when we got the first drum off we found the hub nut was LOOSE (face palm emoji) but anyway the mess inside was like: Only ONE broken spring, heh. We got it all wrestled off but had to drill out the bolts for the brake cylinder. That's just crap on the axle thingy, it's not actually knackered. The process of trying to free the pistons from the second cylinder broke it but also look at the STATE of these things: Soooo crunchy We popped to the local motor factors and ordered a cylinder to see if it would match up, and got new shoes and springs, we left the old ones sprung up as references: In an effort to cheer up, I wired in the second VIBE BLACKAIR T12 sub and fired up the stereo. When it was just one it was ok but a bit borderline, two however has the ability to get slightly uncomfortable which means there's enough bass it gives me more enthusiasm to keep chucking money into this PIT in the hope I can drive it one year.

Quick update.... I purchased a Varta A7 (E39) Dynamic AGM battery and installed it. After a couple of mis-steps due to a flat key battery all seems well; all warning lights extinguished and car starts and runs fine. No need for recoding (hopefully) and best of all the alarm isn't sounding all the time... it's VERY loud! Thanks everyone for your help.

Sorry Dog with a bone, The parts catalogues show: Period Handbrake lever Early Mk3 5E0711301B — plastic handle Early leather version → 17 Aug 2015 5E0711301C From 17 Aug 2015 → 5E0711301D Clearly issue with pre Aug 2015 handbrakes. Those that had issue, was your Octavia built pre August 2015. Can any one who had issue post Aug 2015 build post please, so that I can discount it. Mine was registered Jan 2015, and yes only done 58k miles. Very really parked on hill.

Hi Unless im mistaken, golf mk8 lever (image below) is totally different to mk4 vrs lever, so it wouldn’t fit.

105 or 90 what? Is that 105 or 90 bar? Both are more than enough to keep the car running. My car had a failing HP fuel pump once (around 2015?). Without that HP fuel pump I could still drive the car to the garage, with only the fuel pressure of the pump in the tank, around 6 bar.... If you still have 90 bar, the fuel pressure is not your problem.

Ridex I believe are autodoc own brand they purchase from other manufacturers. They are budget/cheap parts. Fine if its to get it through an MOT etc but personally would fit something better. Try https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ been using them for a few years and prices are generally a lot cheaper than ECP plus delivery so far has been within 48hrs. Have had a couple of problems due to delivery surcharge to my address but normally ok. Alasdair

I've used a couple of Ridex parts on my Fabia, mainly smaller items, and honestly haven't had any problems so far. Fit was good and they've been working fine. For £40 compared with £100, I'd probably give them a try for non-critical parts. I wouldn't necessarily choose them for brakes or other safety-related stuff though.

Anyone running standard suspension with wheel spacers, looking to do mine 10/12mm but wondering what it looks like non sports/lowered

Seems to be planning that hold things up alot. Perhaps a different approach needed ie fast track for some project as national priority circumventing local permissions or different parameters which are automatically accepted.

Hy, I have exactly the same symptoms with my Skoda Fabia. Everything works perfectly, and from time to time, the clutch pedal becomes completely soft and doesn’t disengage at all. It’s very strange because you think you’ve disengaged the clutch, but in fact the gear remains engaged and you often end up stalling. And strangely, after one or two poppies on the pedal, everything goes back to normal for hours... Did you get the explanation about your issue? Thank you in advance.

I’ve used Ridex parts from Autodoc a few times and honestly haven’t had any problems. Had a service kit from them on an older car and everything fitted fine and worked as it should. For a Kodiaq with 100k on it I’d probably go for Mann or Bosch for the filters, or Ridex.

I was thinking of Smokey and the Bandit. Never a truer thing in a song. The UK needs to get a move on with things.

As it is just an location location location thing and usage. Maybe more necessary seaside or where winter salting is more common. And if you own cars as keepers and not rent / lease them and hand back or trade in every 3 years. Then lack of use or low miles might mean more surface rust on discs when they are moved. A manual hand / parking brake can mean user to get some rust off discs than cars with e-brakes. PS, untill 2019 Skoda UK servicing still showed 'remove wheels' remove Drums'. Some inspection of drum brake cars were done without wheels off. Right they used inspection hols on rear drum plate. Not. So mBy cars never had the alloys off in 3 or more years that it was an effort to get them off. Many a sad tale at puncture times.

Picked up the new car yesterday, first impressions are very good. So much more fun to drive than the Superb. It was indeed built quite recently. It came off the production line in Japan on 07/06/2026, pretty impressed on how quickly it got here!

The bought-from-new cars owned by me and my wife have included 6 VWs and 2 Skodas. All of these (and the other makes of vehicle we've owned) were all serviced by their manufacturer's main dealerships and - to the best of my knowledge - none of their brakes were ever stripped down, pins greased etc. Brake pad thickness and brake disc condition were checked and reported on, but this was only using a visual inspection and without the road-wheels being removed from the car. That doesn't mean that our cars' brakes were never stripped down, as I used to do this myself on my cars and on my wife's last VW (a Golf diesel estate), but this was primarily when I was replacing the pads to try to improve the brakes' performance rather than me feeling a pressing need to do this. Do you know which car manufacturers have included (or now include) a brake strip-down as part of their standard servicing? I expect a VW/Skoda main dealership would include brake strip-down/pin greasing as a supplementary task during a service if an owner insisted (despite the pads' thickness being adequate) but current labour charges would bump up the cost significantly.

The alarm code could be a failed siren but I assume the alarm is controlled via the BCM which I believe also controls priming of fuel pump. Apart from that i dont think they are related in any other way unless they share an earth? Did the indicators flash but no alarm siren? Alasdair

Been using https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk There prices and delivery are pretty good apart from random things that incur a delivery surcharge as I am in Inverness. If its skoda genuine parts then probably dealer or there is https://www.skoda-parts.com/ as well as https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ who also have original manufacturer parts diagrams and you can narrow it down with VIN. Alasdair

Is your car chugging during normal driving/operation? Mine only does it for 2-3 seconds, when it's restarted after already being warmed up. Normal driving is fine, idle is smooth, and performance is generally strong. With regards to parts... I haven't bought many myself, but have used Autodoc and AwesomeGTI in the past. Both recommended. Autodoc is often cheaper that garages quote for parts, but takes 2-3 weeks for delivery to the UK.

@lol-lol Yes, I know about Electric Forecourt, just a few miles from me, and it can cope with that load, as there is a tap into the main 275kV or maybe even 400kV grid powerline just metres away from it. The place is run by Gridserve and has on-site 2 massive transformers to provide the power. But a couple of swallows does not make a summer. If we are to go electric, we need far more of these centres, but however, they are not geared up to accept HGVs. The same national grid powerline that serves Electric Forecourt, also runs close by the Fastned site in Colchester.