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sadly the fuel temp sensor didn't make much difference. I'm totally stuck with AI sending me round in circles

The MIB has nothing to do with the functionality. Even with the MIB removed, it still works perfectly fine for me.

I used to use that stabiliser system until i bought a van with the alko stabiliser built in. maybe something similar is available in Australia. But i believe they have no speed restrictions on towing and usual use pick ups and bigger vehicles for towing trailers. When Škoda designed the 2014 Superb, they rated its towing capacity based on the assumption that it would be pulling a European-style trailer, not an Australian one.

Skoda Fabia 72 Reg, I tried to remove this service reminder. Pressed 00/set, turned on ignition, pressed set again, followed instructions, but it reappears. Anyone any solution. Thanks.

@pab567 Plese, can you send me the link for download in PM too? Thanky you.

Hello pab567, I also need this software. Could you please send me the link? I would really appreciate it! Best regards, Ariom25

For ease of handling trailers single-handed, I used to keep nose weight fairly low and used a hitch stabiliser instead - specifically the type that uses an adjustable single leaf and friction lining. This prevented excessive rear sag of tow vehicle and made rig totally stable for pitch and yaw, I think the brand was Bulldog.

The vinyl was **** and didn't stick to the axle, I got it on there with frog tape but it wasn't TIGHT like we needed it to be. I threw some yellow at it because, well, we're here now. and tbh it'll be perfectly fine for what i need it to do, remind me not to break this beam, after i touch it up with a black paint stick.

Not properly coded if doesn't work after mib change

I made them check by the tire guy with the instrument that activates them and he showed me they’re active; making a diagnosis with Odis the result was “system turned off” so now I have to understand how to turning it on again!

I reckon it could be retrofitted. The holder is available on Ali express. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvrOk82 It’s 3 wires. Permanent live, permanent earth and a live which comes on with the boot opening which is probably there for your existing light. I can’t imagine the trim is much different so should be achievable.

Ahh I want better trunk light for my trunk as well.. :/ On the facelift, the light is not removable..

For anyone wanting this VW have answered our prayers. Part number 3T0947417F is from a new Tiguan, multivan or T6 caravelle and is a straight replacement but with cool white LED. Thanks @Danoid for the discovery. There’s some on eBay in the uk for around £30 and I think direct from vw would be around £60-80. Just ordered mine from eBay so will post. A pic when it arrives.

Check your sensors. If you can connect normaly to 55 module, your sensors died. Aswell had problems with faulty module and sensors from ali since get one which works

Maybe it would be better to query on an Australian caravan forum The car is capable of pulling the weight but cannot cope with that 10% nose weight. The difference in advice between countries is because of the Hitch. In the Uk the hitch head contains internal, replaceable friction pads (essentially brake pads) that clamp down hard onto the sides of the car's 50mm towball. This dampens the very first millimeter of lateral movement to physically stop the caravan from entering a high-speed sway or "snake." If your hitch mechanism is just a standard A frame directly on to the car you have a bit of an engineering dilemma to reach your 80kg nose weight. You need to adjust load backward from the front up to the axle , you should not put load behind the axle to counter. The only other option is to remove weight from the front of the trailer

@pab567 would you be able to pm me the link to the download?

I really want to keep the rear boxes As I’m hoping to keep a mega deep sound from it Resonator delete be ok

I have seen that people who even have the rear boxes deleted on their 1.5TSi still don’t get that much sound but idle is very different to under load. With mine being nearly not noticeable unless cold until under load and changing WOT does create some DSG farts, would like to have a video outside of mine but not gotten around to it

If the new master is slightly out of tolerance compared to new one the actuator rod might be sitting too tight. You could try 0.5-1mm washers/shims to bring it forward slightly. Just done my daughters 205gti and had same problem. Got some washers and cut them into C sections Loosened master and slid them in place. Didnt take much about 1/2mm Hers was fine when cold but happend once driven for a while. Same as yours left for a while and it was fine. Alasdair

Yes that’s correct one for the Octavia on my 220 Superb, they had to make the end a little larger but does everything I had hoped

Yep angle grinder time. Sons were the same although his are slightly different with three nuts welded to bracket on top. Sheared two and third just spun. If you have a welder a quick spot on top might do. Give the threads on the ball joint a really good clean and releasol. If it starts spinning in its socket its a nightmare to get an allen/hex key in end to hold it. Had to cut my sons off as well. Alasdair

Cut them off if you have a tie rod extractor you’re good, in my Fabia and other vag I use this set https://www.amazon.it/supporto-eiettore-universale-estrattore-sferico/dp/B01N6NU329

Sorry I should have stated I'm in Australia and they recommend 8 to 10 percent that's just going off a google search I done I will tag it because it may be wrong? Which would put the van I'm looking at around 146kg but it does have gas bottles up front and a Annex stored in the middle of the van which I could move to the back or to the car I'm guessing would help? So do you think I would be able to lower it that low because that's like 50-60 kg? Thanks for your your response/help it's much appreciated!

Please try to do it and give feedback. In my case bring possitive results. Generally i Heard that the problem in vag group.

According to the wiring diagrams if you have the extended service intervals (ESI) you have the oil sensor in the oil pan, however attached there are the wiring diagrams, but probably you will need to code the different interval for the oil changes. From the 3 pin connector of the oil sensors in the pan you need to wire the pin this way T3F/1 (indicate the pin n° 1 in the connector T3F of the oil sensor) this pin have to be wired to the fuse n°3 which is already used so you need to split the wire and solder the one to power the oil sensor T3F/2 this pin is a ground in the ecu wiring harness you will need to find the pin T14a/7 and (like for the fuse) split the wire and solder there the new ground T3F/3 this is the pin that goes to the instrument cluster pin n° T32A/11 that need to be added because there is no wire in that position in the connector