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Hello. I'm have plans to install a subwoofer in my superb this weekend and wonder if anyone has find a good spot to go through the firewall for the positive cable, preferably om the driver side (LHD) as I plan to put the RCA cables on the passenger side as I already have a camera cable there

A photo would also help...

Hi, It would help if you could tell us the model of Yeti you have - e.g. engine size petrol/diesel, manual/auto gearbox, front/all wheel drive. There are many permutations, so it's possible that the pipes you describe are not fitted to all models.

Fantastic, thanks Cairus!I will give it a shot, hopefully I can get it back to work🤞🙃I will update. Cairus, You're a star mate 🙂

Full Backup Superb 3 Facelift L&K Superb3_L&K_Full_Backup.html

Interesting. .I have to look into this , thanks Cairus! I will probably check if the plug at the back of the lights is not loose or pins corroded first. That would be the best and easier option...🤞

Don't apologize Cairus, I appreciate your help anyway mate! It's not on top of my list to get this lane assist working and we will get there eventually 🙃Hope you're Ok bud, look after yourself and we will try again whenever you feeling good👍

There are microswitches inside the lock mechanism. These are a known issue within the group—specifically, the solder joints tend to break. When this happens, the trunk lighting or the Multi-Function Display (MFA) often starts acting up.

Yes and I did several times with long coding from other cars with same camera and trim. It did not work. Looks like the older models, pre Facelift are quite easy to code but after 2019 some models are blocked from coding lane assist with other tools than Obd11 , vscd...I will give it a go, thank you, but I'm not too optimistic. Many thanks for support!

Sorry @Rafal78 I have a couple of health issues.

I have a similar thing around 2500rpm in my vRS, but only under load (uphill or accelerating to enter motorway), and only very occasionally, i.e. not easy to reproduce at will. I suspect something is loose around the engine, several possibilities, including but not limited to a cracked piston ring, a cracked piston skirt around its wrist pin, or some balancer shaft issue. If it is any consolation, I have done 60k+ miles since I noticed the issue, though for me, it happens quite rarely. The engine drinks about a 250ml glass of oil per 1k miles, in line with my previous 1.9TDI Octavia which did have a cracked piston ring but otherwise engine was bulletproof. Fuel consumption and performance are both very good, and I intend to keep my vRS until the engine dies or until it meets some other end of life event, as any manual gearbox diesel car replacement will have 35% less power.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to trace a water leak in my right-hand-drive 2019 Skoda Kodiaq Ambition+ 1.5 TSI in New Zealand. After prolonged or heavy rain, the carpet and padding in the driver’s footwell become wet. The water is clean and odourless, so I believe it is rainwater. So far, I have lifted the carpet, removed trim around the bonnet release and inspected the driver-side scuttle beneath the windscreen. I removed leaves, dirt and a few small plastic pieces, cleared the drainage area and flushed it with water. It now drains quickly, but I haven’t been able to reproduce the leak during controlled water tests. I noticed what appeared to be a wet trail on a metal ledge high above the pedals, near the bulkhead. This makes me think water may be entering higher up and travelling behind the dashboard or insulation. Possible causes I’ve considered include the scuttle seams, a bulkhead grommet, windscreen bonding, the door membrane or the wheel-arch area. Has anyone experienced this on a first-generation Kodiaq, particularly a right-hand-drive model? Are there any known water-entry points above the driver’s pedals? Thanks, Daniel

You should be able to check the individual bytes/bits in your long coding using car scanner based on the vcds info above.

Hi, welcome to Briskoda. You in the right place then 🙃There are plenty of people here willing to help with advice and knowledge. 👍

Thanks guys, Some great feedback there. That gives me much more comfort & confidence.

Yes, you absolutely right. Lane assist can be easily coded using Obd11 or vscd. The problem I had was limitation of Car Scanner which codded actual function but it would not enable it. That's why I'm waiting until get my hands on Obd11 or vscd. 2Q0 camera is the newest available for MK3 so Traffic Signs are possible to code with same tools, they will appear but there will be error "not available" because its locked by SWaP/FEC software certificates. It was easier with models up to 2019 but after Facelift, VW/Skoda are actively blocking access. You would need someone with ODIS-E or VCP to put dataset in and there you go 😎. You right, we shifted slightly from the subject but it's a beauty of this forum to learn about 10 other things that the one you asked for 🤣

I had a look and on Ebay you can get inner ones in range £50-£100 depending if new or used. But same here, until its not constant problem I will leave it. I might get time to strip the panel and inspect the connector and pins. Will update if I get somewhere with it. Its just now, when it's darker it will be bother me even more 😳

Hi guys, I recently purchased a Skoda octavia VRS 2017/67 plate face-lift model, and I noticed upon hard acceleration there is a vibration noise coming from NSF side/passenger front more towards the middle, this happens in every gear when the revs are between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm. Whilst I was travelling 40mph, I pressed the clutch pedal in and revved the car and noticed the vibration noise happened again between those revs. The dealer i bought it from said it was a boost pipe leak but I know for a fact if it was that, the vehicle would be under power/limp mode and engine light would be on. I even did a smoke test to see if any pipe for leaking to which they weren't. I asked a few mechanic friends and one of them mentioned a borne speaker which sits under the scuttle panel and apparently they were common to vibrate under hard acceleration. I removed the speaker and its still vibrating. Im thinking it could be down to the gearbox and if it is I am going to return the car back within the 30 day period and get my money back but before I do that doea anyone know what it could be because its a very nice specced car and dont paticularly want to give it back if its a fix I can do myself.

I thought about the renegade, but the navigation system clue was throwing me way off 🤦🏼‍♂️

I also considered it, as a taxi driver myself.. In the end i couldnt bring myself to go with such a small engine maybe im still a bit old school when it comes to electric too. My previous taxi was a fabia estate 1.4. I ran it for 7 year and i didnt have many issues but i always felt it wasnt robust enough, or designed for this constant work use.. I now have a MK4 octavia 2.0TDI 150PS. I do plenty of short journeys and some longer ones. Had it 12 months now and really enjoy driving it. Brilliant on fuel, comfortable, powerful enough and no concerns with the DPF/GPF thus far. I sometimes add fuel treatment and use premium diesel to help with that though.

When I was waiting for my car after being repaired, I sat in a Scala in the showroom. It was really comfortable and a nice dash layout. Definitely something to consider at a later date.

The first time I saw a "Maxi Countryman" there was a Vauxhall Omega hiding behind it!!

I saw a Renegade (Doh! ) the other day. I always think of them as big yankee iron, but I swear it was smaller than the BMini Countryman in front of it 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for alleviating my misery 😁 G

You would think it is their money. All they need to do is arrange the inspection and send the photos to Skoda UK. At this point your dealer has straight up lied to your face to save 10 minutes work.

erm?