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With regard to the cooling mods they vary from nothing required on the 2.0 TSI through a grill without blanking between the fins on some models to an additional cooling fan and the grill. The towing prep is the cable for the electrical socket for the trailer lights and totally unrelated to the cooling mods. The most important thing with any towbar fitted to a Karoq is the coding for thd CANBUS system. Much of the CANBUS system is now behind a security wall and many dealers are not willing to do changes. Karoqs built before 2024 can be coded successfully, as can 2024 Karoqs, for 2025 & 2026 Karoqs it is less clear. There are towbar fitters who will suggest a bypass relay. This might be acceptable for a towbar for use as a bike carrier mounting although parking sensors will still be active and may well detract the bike, but for actual towing will cause issues.

Hello, 2014vrs tsi, 130000km and just got a p0078 code. Idl RPM jumps from 900 to 2000 Anybody already got this code? From my app torq, it could be the MAF sensor or throttle position sensor. I hope it is not to expensive

I know the ideal solution is a second set of rims, winter tyres and chains but we live in north Nottinghamshire so the ideal solution is overkill. We don’t work so they would be more an emergency get us home than travel 100 miles. Anyone any experience of them?

Was looking at 2/3 year old 220d estates before we found the deal on the superb. A used merc was less than a full price superb but about the same as we paid. What is frightening about the merc is the potential for engine issues, there is a series of videos on Dave’s Auto Centre You Tube channel about trying to fix an oil leak on a 2.0 diesel sprinter - ends up with engine out to do it.

Just wanted to thank everyone who supplied answers here. I've got a '22 Enyaq iV 60 and I was having huge problems with Octopus intelligent Go and an Ohme epod 7kW charger - immediate charging fine, but smart charging failed every time. The car never seemed to wake up for the smart charging times in the middle of the night, although the first smart session which charged for a few minutes on plug-in would work OK. Software version on my car was 3.8, but it was updated before I bought it. I went through the process described here, pulling out fuse 3 for a few minutes - I think I went for 10 minutes - and then replacing. I'm sure I heard an extra 'clunk' at about 6 minutes. Anyway, end result was that it now charges perfectly on smart charging, waking up in the night to charge with no problem. So thank you! that's why forums are great.

It would NOT drive up the ramps, conjunction of dragging brakes and the slope made some GREAT clutch smells. The absolute limit of the jack's reach was enough to wedge a ramp under the front right wheel which gave me just enough room to go investigating. I won't bore you with a whole blog about it, but deblocker xs, a set of punches, and an air hammer were all ultimately successful, but I still feel beaten up. The problem ultimately was a bound up joint in the gear linkage which has been the case since this lump was delivered to me, around page two of this thread my neighbour punished the gear linkage into shifting which is what i think first cracked this bound up weak link, but it's finally gone full bluetooth: I think https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187384471604 will get us back on the road, but I'll try and get the existing parts apart before I order, in case I need to raid a breaker for a less rotten example. There's also this option which might be a better choice? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vika/13157945#selector-shift-rod At least I know what the problem has always been, the root of today's oopsie, and ultimately will have a refreshed gear shifter which should feel like brand new. It does feel like everything is between me and this truck working, but this is actually the hobby I wanted, I may actually be SAD when this thing is 'fixed'

Latest update is that there is still no build week (I am not concerned about that due to the many report software/infotainment issues) so I am now expecting a Feb or Mar delivery? My dealer guy said that on their internal skoda website there was something about new builds from now on that shouldnt be getting these issues but could not recall exact reason why, but it sounded like something different happening at build stage? Was a bit vague but hoping it is not just sales talk but something beneficial!

Nothing special with Castrol and it was 0W 20 FS IV that VW went to for 1.0 TSI,s with gpf,s for the WLTP. As it is dealers get Quantum from Fusch. If concerned about high heat stability go non Long Life so 5w 40 FS VW 502 00. As far as VW 504 00 /. 507 or VW 508 00 / 508 00 it matters not if from Comma, Asda, Tesco , Mobile, Miller etc etc just to the spec and approved.

the Haynes manual for Fabia mk2 covered the 1.6 TDi 90 bhp CAYB engine in our 2012 Fabia Combi if that's any help.

No they weren't missing. I removed them to help with the dry out, I just wanted to check where the vent/breather holes were. Apparently, they should have some but no one knows where they are 🤔

@jonathan.tong Did you find the cause of the problem ?

You will probably find the part number on lllparts as well. Alasdair

Chances are the cluster specialist is in a nice heated room. When you said cold start they probably thought engine was cold. Not sure how easy it would be as a DIY as you said. Probably best let an expert do it. Alasdair

My understanding is that Castrol were involved in the development of the relevant oils for the later turbocharged 1.0 litre engines. Apparently they developed a product that has a very low sulphated ash content to protect the exhaust particulate filter and the catalytic converter. Also the turbocharger needs to have an oil with very high temperature stability and shear resistance. This is to reduce carbonisation and varnish deposits and sludge build up. Other oil producers may or may not meet the Castrol Edge/ Volkswagen specs of VW 504/00, 507/00 and VW508/00, 509/00. As I am planning to keep the car for many years, I will buy the Castrol Edge Volkswagen spec oil from my local Tesco at £54 for 4 litres plus Tesco Club Card points. I cannot advise what Volkswagen main dealers practice is, but when I owned a one year old turbocharged Nissan eight years ago, I discovered that amongst other poor practices, my local Nissan main dealer was knowingly putting in the wrong spec oil from their bulk purchased contract drums with an oil supplier. This is why I always buy and supply my own parts, Castrol oils and filters ( Mann) to a locally trusted independent garage, or sometimes for the fun of it if the weather is nice, I do it myself. If I have my Škoda for 9 years at 12,000 miles per year, I expect I will change the oil twelve times. If I pay £30 over the odds each year for this period compared to buying a cheap oil, then I will have paid £360 over the odds overall compared to a cheap oil. However I will have done my best to keep the turbocharger and cat in good health. I would still do the same if I planned to part exchange the car after 3 years since it would only have cost me £120 over the odds in the shorter period for the peace of mind of using the correct oil and being able to prove it by receipts at trade in time.

No. Use the two holes that are covered by the rubber access seals that you have already removed in the photo above. Unless they are missing? Thanks. AG Falco

Hi. I recommend that you make an account to skoda-parts.com site and enter your cars VIN-number in there. Then you can search for the right parts that fit you car.

@Lord_Moppy thanks for the info - that issue does sound very similar. Not sure why the instrument cluster specialist didn't pick this up (although problem had gone away - did think their diagnostic techniques would factor this in though as I told them its cold start problem). Thanks for the part numbers too, will find someone to replace them (assuming its not a DIY job). Trying to avoid going down the route of replacing the cluster and having to find someone to recode it. I'll report back when I get round to doing it. Thanks again - much appreciated.

From memory, anything below 8 mOhms is ok.

Resistance not a little high? For comparison i tested the same battery in a friends car but a year older. His read over 600 amps and a resistance of 3.7 millohms.

I have used a smart charger a few times. Didn’t make any difference, offen says the battery is full after only 30-40 mins.

38% health while SOC at >95% is pretty low and tends to suggest your battery is suffering from hard sulphation - which will probably not be fully reversible. Internal res looks OK. A recovery charge programme may help, but approaching winter could well finish it off.

Hi! Ive been working on the same type of project. Are you looking for contributors for the iOS side of things? Ive done some research and i have a working demo for iOS client.

It would come up as one of the selection you get by pressing the rocker switch on end of wiper stalk, mpg, outside temp etc. I think.

Don’t think I can but not 100 percent sure how would I even go about doing that