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This is really brilliant help. Thank you so much 😄

Thank you so much. You Guys are the best. OK... KF16 UOK Many, Many thanks. 😊

The reported shutoff due to low pressure event would be a clue pointing you toward lack of refrigerant, I expect.

You will not find any data for 'AC clutch' as the Mk3 A/C system doesn't have one - the compressor is permanently driven via a sacrificial shear plate.

Maxton design Honeycomb grill for facelift VRS, never fitted, £65 posted. Racing line intake kit, Gen3 888, airfilter, grill rear blanking plate, Turbo inlet elbow, silicon hose, never fitted, £145 posted. kit to convert bonnet to strut opening, never fitted, £15 posted. Powerflex Dogbone mount and new bolt, rear anti roll bar bush, £20 posted. These were bought for 2019 VRS 245, never fitted as I changed car.

LED Lighting. puddle lights, dynamic indicators, boot light, interior lights, never fitted, from Kopacek. £30 posted. Footrest for RHD manual models, not sure if it fits DSG, Never fitted, £15 posted. OEM cargo nets red/black, these have been fitted, £25 posted. OEM mudflaps, never fitted, were bought for facelift VRS hatch, £30 posted. Team Heko wind deflectors for hatchback, £20 posted.

For factory options / build codes I got mine from ebay. A guy in Italy emails it to you in a couple of days or so. Then print iff. Cost about £3 or less (via ebay uk). Just search for “vin decoder VW/Skoda”. Seller has a name like “ glavaneski”. Edit: ( got the original info of the source from earlier posts on this forum)

Hi, thanks for the reply and very helpful. I'll get the final drive done asap then and keep on top of it now I'm the owner. Appreciate your help 👍🏻

I can get brief VAG service history. Just PM me the Reg number. Thanks. AG Falco

BCM replaced, all ok. I didn't tell them what the other garage diagnosed, wanted to see what their diagnosis was.

The roof doesn't open, only the blinds do. So no drains.

I’m on my phone so I will be brief. They are NOT the same thing. In VAG documentation, the VAQ LSD service is referred to as “final drive oil”. The recommended service interval is every 30,000 miles or 3 years, with some sources saying that the MQB Evo cars (2020 ono) want this done every 20,000 miles or 2 years. At this service, you need to replace the oil, and clean the pump screen/gauze. It’s the same principle as the Haldex AWD system (most VAQs are made of Haldex bits, although newer ones are… Borg Warner… @Cairus?) Perhaps @Evolution13 can find the thread from a few months ago where there was a big fight about updated intervals on the Mk4. The DQ381 service is advised to be done every 80,000 miles. This involves new fluid and a replacement filter. That said, every DSG box has an interval at 40k, aside from the 381 (80k) and 200 (sealed…). Most don’t trust this and, myself included, choose to get it done sooner. I have recently done mine at 40k, and will be doing it again when it hits 80k.

Where are you looking to get it done? Is it a 230, 245 or TDI? I’m not sure what tips are £1100 - do you mean the backboxes? The modes will remain the same, albeit with more performance at each setting. You are able to tweak some stuff (like having full power in RS, stock power in Eco, etc), but I’m not sure how straightforward that is. Perhaps @Cairus might have some idea?

You won’t get that much on the Gemini due to the design. The best solution is to look at something like Rimblades. Personally, I’d rather damage the wheel. A scuffed wheel is an aesthetic issue, a chunked tyre is a safety issue.

There’s a YouTube video that provides one possible explanation. Basically there is too much grease in the stalk mechanism that can conduct a current causing the wipers to operate even when switched off. I suppose it’s possible that using the indicators could displace some grease and also complete a circuit to allow the wipers to operate. The occasional ranfkm operation when left in Auto mode I think could be caused the camera that senses rain being fooled by dust particles and random water droplets from a passing cars screen washers.

So, I re-scanned today, and I've gotten a couple more of these - both left and right low-beam lights, on July 28 (I was driving up from Barcelona through a wide open, sunny valley, to the mountains; I don't recall exactly, but I assume the outside air temperature was in the low 30s°C). Should I be worried about a LED headlight over-temperature warning? thanks,

You need to get roof bars specifically for the Scala, as they have little pegs that locate into the recesses you refer to. I've got Summit bars for my Monte Carlo, which work well and have these location pegs and detailed specific instructions for the Scala. Not too expensive, either, and an Autocad magazine best buy.

I finally had time to drive out a few minutes and find a place to stop the car (from Barcelona city you'd be surprised how difficult that can be). My OBDeleven original-generation dongle and app don't consistently show "live data", or maybe it's really live and the car computer only reports certain fields at specific moment? .. but it was very difficult to capture readings for a bunch of the possible data points. e.g. "A/C clutch": "Function cancelled, marginal conditions have not been met", and "Lots of different data fields, at least intermittently": "Not available" (but then, many fields, would intermittently show some data, then switch back to "Not available"). Is this a glitch, or just a known functional limitation, of OBD11/ an older OBD-II Bluetooth dongle? That said, I got some fields: "Coolant temperature": 88°C (although that seems to be more likely the engine than something specific to the A/C?) Blower voltage, actual value: 6.1 V Blower current, 4.50 A Compressor current, actual value: 0.810 A Compressor current, specified value: 0.820 A Rear temperature flap, actual value: 20, 0.0% Rear temperature flap, specified value: 20 Compressor shut-off requirement, penultimate event: Low pressure event (gotta love the word choice!) Compressor shut-off requirement, antepenultimate: Shut-off from Engine Control Module via CAN Outside air temperature: 38.5°C Outside air temperature, calculated internally: 31.0°C Left front vent temperature: 10.0°C Right front vent temperature: 9.0°C Footwell vent temperature: 16.3°C Temperature after evaporator: 4.3°C Interior Temperature: 30.9°C Sun intensity left: 750 W/m2 Sun intensity right: 690 W/m2 Blower status: active Actual value for fresh air/ recirculation air flow flap: 60, 12.5% Specified value for fresh air/ recirc air flow flap: 58 (Something obscured by a pop-up at that moment on my phone screen) "...stop for fresh air/ ...tion air flow flap": 210 Recirculated air stop for fresh air/ recirc air flow flap: 38 Left temperature flap, actual value: 28, 0.0% Left temperature flap, specified value: 27 Left temperature flap, cold stop: 32 Left temperature flap, warm stop: 233 Right temperature flap, actual value: 25, 0.0% Right temperature flap, specified value: 24 Right temperature flap, cold stop: 29 Right temperature flap, warm stop: 228 Front air distribution flap, actual value: 23, 0.0% Front air distribution flap, specified value: 20 Front air distribution flap, air outlet stop: 234 Front air distribution flap, footwell air outlet stop: 25 Defroster valve, actual value: 243, 100.0% Defroster flap, specified value: 244 Defroster flap, stop open: 239 Defroster flap, stop closed: 19 So. Yeah. There's that. Um. What does any of it mean? (And, I didn't seem to have successfully captured anything about pressure :-/ ) thanks!

Just a thought, but are the drain tubes vibrating/rattling?

The 2014 Rapid turned over to 150,000Kms yesterday.

Thanks @Cairus that's really comprehensive.

Thank you, I was asking because if I do a splash and dash to get home to my normal garage, there is normally displayed on the pumps the minimum quantity, usually 2 or 5 litres. I normally go with 5 litres for safety. So I did a search, and as Auto Shaningans found out, that relates to the accuracy of the pumps. https://youtu.be/_S2sGMH_u18

The Car ExpertDoes a seller have to declare damage on a car? | The Car...What are the rules about any damage being declared on a car you're buying? Well, it's complicated, which car dealers use to their advantage.

Hi Frank sorry to hear your troubles, Think you mean 23 reg Karoq 1.5 if it's still in warranty just take it to a different dealer as current ones have not got a clue. Have you had it from new and what mileage has it done with you. Do hope a decent dealer soon gets it sorted for you.

@Graham Butcher there are various stay times on rapid chargers in different regions of Scotland. 40 minutes Stirling. 60 or 70 in Dundee. Maybe day time and not through the night. 5 hours to 12 hours on Fast chargers AC. No limits some places. 40 to 60 minutes on a charger just giving out maybe 26 kW or 39 max is a total PITA as the one at Turnberry is. And you don't know the speed till you have started the charger and you are not going to stop sooner if there is a £5 minimum charge. Many seem to not care about a £30 penalty, not them paying and they have a job to do. Time is money, and some earn plenty.