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After considering where to put a heath/wellness subforum, I opted to extend the cycling club. Partly as a lot of health benefits can be gained from cycling. Renamed the forum to health hub, so keeping one finger on a cycling/car word play as per other subforums. The other option which is a bit more drastic, is to enable a feature in the forums called clubs, which kind of hides the content away in clubs... but would make fewer sub forum categories... I opted for the above first though. Any thoughts or comments, please do, as ever, just say.... right off to upset the wheel and tyre wagon cart.

Not bad considering it was Friday afternoon traffic - M1 / M25 for most of it, aircon was on full and it was knocking on 32 degrees C outside the car for most of the trip.

I didn't want to type mpg

After a year of listen to the dreaded creaking and groaning of the sunroof in my sedan, I can honestly say the problem has now been solved. From day one I have put up with these noises which have driven me to the brink of starting to hate my Superb. After two different dealers looked at the vehicle, both saying that can’t find a problem, it has come down to a fellow Aussie Superb owner (Alcoop) who found the fix even after his dealer replaced the entire sunroof, frame and all associated components - with zero success. Following Alcoop’s instructions, I sat in the rear seat and reached up running my hand across the back of the roof lining which lines up flush with the sunroof framework. Giving a sharp pull down on the roof lining on each corner, the roof lining will unclip from the sunroof frame. Because the roof lining is a one piece moulded unit, the roof lining will not sag down. You will end up with the roof lining edge now slightly below the sunroof frame across the back edge of the sunroof. See photo. The roof of the vehicle will still flex when the car is in motion due to the big hole in the middle of the roof (sunroof) but now the roof lining won’t flex with it. The moulded roof lining is the cause of all the noises. When attached to the sunroof frame, the lining twists and flexes along with the roof creating the noises we are all experiencing. In addition to the noises, both Alcoops and I suffered from the sunblind gathering up when opening the blind, once the roof lining was released from the framework, this also released the pressure that was being placed on the sunblind cassette and now the sunblind retracts effortlessly without any form of gathering up. This was a pleasant surprise as I have been suffering with this problem since day one as well. Bottom line, it’s all down to the roof lining fixing points at the back of the sunroof flexing with the roof/sunroof and creating the noises. Once released, all noises etc disappear. It astounds me that the dealers and Skoda themselves can’t figure this out and just fob off the customer because we complain about something that is not correct. In this case it comes down to owners of the vehicle to find the cause and create a simple fix. Skoda need to have a look at the way the roof lining is designed in sedans that have the sunroof and modify the design to eliminate this problem. At the very least, they need to issue a technical bulletin to the dealers to apply this simple fix that a lot of owners have complained about across the globe. As you can see in the photos, you wouldn’t even know if the lining had been detached from the roof. I am now falling back in love with my Superb. Now if I can just fix the squeaks coming from the cup holder in the centre console (the dealers said that they all do it…I call Bulls%*t) I will be a very happy boy...any suggestions??

I got these fitted via Asda Tyres. Managed to get a local tyre place, 0.4 miles away the next working day and fitted straight off first thing in the morning. So now I have an excellent spare tyre and two new front tyres. The tyres are quieter, feel excellent on the road (yes, all new tyres do) and will hopefully prove their A rated fuel rating when I do my longer trip from London to Gloucestershire tomorrow morning.

Manual - boggo standard ex-rental SE spec.

Your son-on-laws VCDS is out of date so you should update and it's not an autoscan Your issue is: Until you can restore communications, you won't get the headlights working properly. You want it see both submodules, like this example: Only then will you be able recode and perform the basic settings. This generation of Superb is known to suffer water ingress so I'd suggest removing the left headlight then checking the control module on it's underside. Make sure the pins are clean and corrosion free. Hopefully that'll restore comms and let you fix this I think the official method is to remove the bumper but if you or your son-on-law are adventurous, it might be possible to get to the module from underneath with the bumper still fitted...

You're joking.........................10% of my weight won't fit in a backpack LOL🤣

Hi Classic, Varaderoguy. You have beat me to it. . I was going to post this a few hours ago but then got distracted! I have found the source of the leak. It is the water pump. Feeling underneath it, I feel dampness. There is also a small amount of coolant on the top of what I think is the DSG gearbox housing. After watching a number of YouTube videos I discovered just as you said why the dealer did not change the water pump. It’s located on the right side of the engine compartment, whilst the cam belt is on the left side. The engine is a 103KW CHPA unit. I don’t know if this is different from the TSI engines normally fitted to UK Skoda’s. The water pump is driven via a toothed belt from the exhaust camshaft. The impression I got from the video is that the water pump being the other side of the engine is not directly dependant on the cam belt replacement. Note I’m no mechanic and could be completley wrong These are 2 videos I consultanted. Both have the same engine as mine even though one is VW Golf.: 1. This video show replacing the water pump on a Skoda Octavia estate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEG1e59C0BE 2. This video show changing cam belt on a VW Golf. Again same engine as mine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmYcwh1o474 If you can still recommend a name of good specialist garage in the Bedford Area that would be much appreciated Sorry I have had to post basically the same post twice, but something timed out and would not let me edit it!

It was stated he was a mobile engineer but thats a big drive on top of a days work and drive home, again. You never know though as work might be hard to find in the current climate. He might even collect and fix, with you collecting upon repair. Might well be worth asking for details and if not, he may even have contacts in the trade. (I am feeling optimistic for you).

I would replace the front shocks as well since at 125k they will be effectively knackered.

Interesting. Sorry to have lead MrSkoda up the garden path, but in most cases the waterpump and cam are on the same belt and location. I know this to be the case on the 1.2 and 1.0tsi engines. However, it still doesn't get away that lose of coolant is a bad thing....and that most early MK3's had this bad water pump part. The symptoms that are described so far show loss of coolant and a waterpatch under the car indicates this. The next indicator of a failing waterpump will be a temporary rising of engine temperature. I do agree that this needs checking and investigation, so I stick with my original posting.

I don’t know enough either having never done a cam belt change on one of these, but I’ve previously read the manual. I believe the water pump belt cover and possibly part of the water pump housing is removed to fit one of the timing tools - therefore the water pump is disturbed fitting the belt, so it wouldn’t take too much of a leap of imagination that if this is done wrongly a leak could be caused ! Also these engines are very prone to air locks as the cooling system should be vacuum filled, which a dealer should know about, but again it doesn’t take much imagination to see a dealer technician just filling the cooling system with a watering can...... and now MrSkodas car needs a few top ups as the air works out of the system.

No problem, I’ve got one coming today, if I manage to get it sorted I’ll let you know.

This is a quite an interesting fault - assuming first things first - what (if any) error messages from VCDS there are? Battery issues are usually the problem - and it would be good to know if the battery was replaced recently, and if so - was it coded into the car correctly? Sounds like another Skoda dealer being unhelpful.

Congratulations, IMO you just invalidated your car warranty also. Granted, one mirror change will not break your engine for example, but you just replaced a by-design electric item with another, from another car. If you get a problem that requires warranty services, you might be on the losing side.

Don’t fret mate. Wait until you get a solid answer for the issue. Could be something relatively minor. Don’t panic because local dealers couldn’t resolve. A lot of dealers employ fairly basic mechanics that know how to read directions from the manufacturer and do competent work. But anything out of the ordinary can baffle them. Not really diagnostic experts a lot of the time. I do work for dealers and many times we have fixed or resolved relatively easy problems that had dealers stumped. It’s the “ computer says no” syndrome and they can’t go much further. Experienced non-dealer mechanics can often do much better work than dealer mechanics. I wouldn’t panic just yet. Another suggestion is a new battery. Battery are strange things. Voltage test means nothing - needed to be tested under load. And putting a jump pack on to a bad battery is a waste of time. A faulty battery will take the good from the jump pack and the power from the jump pack won’t get to where it needs to go. I had a VW Passat a few weeks ago that wouldn’t start. Jump pack, still no start. Removed leads from battery and put my jump directly onto leads & car started no problem. Was the central locking working? Was there any message on the dash? If it was a key problem you will get a notification that it’s not recognising keys. There are a lot of things that could lead to this problem. And it’s a matter of elimination until you hit the right thing. And it could still be something relatively simple. Seeing as u just bought it, you still have consumer rights on your side with the garage that sold it to you. DO NOT just leave them of the hook.

Did you compare them to the front wheels? It was a very hot day and "quite warm" would be expected. What part of the wheel was quite warm, the tyre or the rim? But for your previous problems would you even be thinking about the rear wheel temperature? Forget wheel bearings and wheel alignment, they are not suddenly going to change on both sides at the same time to increase the fuel consumption on one journey. I agree that a binding brake or brakes could explain it but the wheel(s) would be smoking hot, keep an eye on the fuel consumption on your next long journey and the temperature of all the wheels on every journey. Have a VCDS scan to reveal if its an unrelated sensor or EGR issue.

Oil is still above the hatched area, is still a golden colour, albeit, not as clean as it was obviously. I filled the coolant at the same time too, that is also still at the max level. All good?

Its a long shot - but I have come across it. Is it possible that there is an aftermarket Immo fitted by a finance company? They can activate them remotely and car will not start even with correct key. Did you have finance check done etc. It would explain what is going on and many dealers wouldn't have a clue what to look for or how to find. As I say, longshot. But it can happen. Would also fit in with you buying the car so recently.

Link in the post I paid about £25 complete Send me a PM with your address and Ill post it tomorrow

how is the tyre wear on the rears? if they are out of alignment, they could be excess toe out, caused by...something back there? bushes or just badly done tracking, and its causing the tyres to drag a bit?

Hi all, I had no replies in the 'performance upgrades' forum, so trying here. I'll be taking my dad on his first track day in his Octavia MK3 VRS soon at Thruxton. I'll bleed through some Motul RBF 600 fluid for him and change his front pads. What pads have people used on track in these cars? They're pretty heavy, so the pads are going to get pretty hot. I don't want him to get brake fade after just a couple of laps or be left with pad deposits causing a vibrating pedal. Options are: Mintex m1144 Mintex m1155 Ferodo DS2500 Pagid RS29 (my favourite, but too expensive he says) Anyone have experience with any of these pads on track in an Octavia? Thanks.

So guys, my VRS is just approaching the 1000miles since its service mark. I drive mostly stop start with the occasional long trip thrown in. I don't drive really hard, but I do tend to accelerate hard from the lights (once the engine is at 90°C of course) Going to check the oil this morning and hopefully if the weather sticks, the spark plugs will be changed tomorrow. Would be fair to assume that its not an oil burner if the oil levels look good yes?

This article was in the I newspaper 7-8-2020

Because both cars in standard format have a miserable 3 star Euro safety rating. Also neither have particularly good reviews for refinement or comfort. Price is not a dominant factor for many of us looking for a replacement for our Yeti's.

Good to hear people are all fans of the DSG for towing. My MKII has a very low 1st gear (Annoying in normal driving) which helps out a lot on the slipway launching boats and I think the 1st on the DSG is lower than the 1st on the MKIII manual scouts. What do you tow with your Scout NZ100? I sometimes have to drop off the end of the slipway onto gravel, rocks, seaweed and mud etc depending on the tide and my MKII 4x4 with the rough road pack just clears it without grounding. Basically I need to decide if I can live with a little less ground clearance and sometimes waiting for an hour or two for the tide. Superb 280 has been on my radar for a while but lack of a lifted 4x4 model and the high prices 2nd have put it in the cross hairs of a 330 or 335d X drive touring which is plentiful on the used market. I'd struggle to fit the superb in my garage too without getting rid of all my storage racks at the back. Still love the old MKII but fancy a change after nearly 10 years, managed 900 miles in a day recently towing 1300kg with no problems which isn't bad for car just coming up on 15 years old.

Forgot to mention, look up 'rucking'. In short, walking with weight. It's almost as good as running for cardio/cal burn, without the impact, but obviously not as quick. Start of with up to 10% of your body weight in a backpack. Do the same route with the weight on, a couple of times, then without. SWMBO and our little 5km walk around the block, I'm up to 20% and I do know I've done the walk Not forgetting some cooldown stretches for your calves, quads, hams, shoulders, triceps etc.

Im at the other end of the scale .... ive got a 5l clear container and marked out in perm marker on the sides the different ammounts of concentrate required for the diffrent temps. Sad I know, lol

Ecs just as good. My work t6 van has ecs and my superb is westfalia. Both code and work the same. You'll need pin tools like these https://www.idparts.com/pin-removal-tool-set-p-6236.html And a small screwdriver or pick to release bcm connections.

Remap by racingline 4x4 dsg and lowered wth H&R and 12mm spacers all round

Its very nice mate, and I like the additions. 31K - I think you'll be looking at about 38-39K here. Whatever it is, there wont be much change out of 40K for that spec here in Ireland. Makes you think doesn't it. Thats a lot of money that brings other manufactures into the picture. Granted a VW may not be as well specd for that money but the gap is closing quick. My VRS cost 35K in 2016 - Manual - Diesel and only added about 1500 in extras as it had most of what I needed as standard. Main additions were Canton and Challenge Pack. After chatting with Skoda today, I don't think Id be getting a VRS for less than 45K, and judging by your Config above - could be looking at more than that. A one year old Superb L&K or Sportline (the 272BHP versions ) can be imported from UK with VRT paid for about 35K. Im finding that hard to ignore. This one would be 38K VRT cleared - but cheaper are available. I just really like this. 2019 with 10K miles. Practically new. New they are 40K Sterling not including any optional extras. This one is already down to 28K Sterling. VRT is about 7K Euro. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/202006019693399?sort=relevance&model=SUPERB&price-to=30000&minimum-badge-engine-size=2.0&drivetrain=Four Wheel Drive&fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=ll651dq&advertising-location=at_cars&make=SKODA&radius=1501&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&price-from=20000&page=1

Just for closure and to help anyone else retrofitting a camera with wash function you do not have to remove spoiler. Use a wide flat wedge shaped plastic spatula and push it into the light starting from the top right. Look for the plastic clips and push above them to release the light.When you push the spatula in the light moves downwards and this slowly releases it. Eventually it will come loose at the top and you will be able to pull it out.

Wiring looms are a little pricey at around £80 a door but I think you may have had several sever! It is well worth checking both front doors, too as both can have issues, the driver side more so. Perhaps go to a decent auto electrician, if you are not too good with wiring as they are just a little fiddly and they may do a much nicer job. You could get away with just rejoining each wire with a crimping bullet/male and female bullet but be sure to crimp well, insulate afterward and check EVERY wire.

Thanks for that. I've got a TowTrust detachable swan in the cart, to get 2000/100 weights. Plus ECS SK017D1U - says it comes with active pins 9&10 and the instructions show a separate link wire. £320 altogether leaves budget for OBDEleven or VCDS 3-VIN. Will take a look at that Westfalia though.

I'm not sure a Golf R Estate vs a Superb 272/280 Estate is a valid vehicle comparison. A Golf R vs a Leon 300 Cupra or an Audi S4 maybe but not a Superb. For me the smaller Golf R with it's lower stance & shouty quad exhausts attracts too much attention (normally the unwanted type from other boy racers &, the boys in blue). The Superb 272/280 estate (L&K in my case) is the epitome of a "sleeper" / Q car & except for a pair of fairly well hidden muted exhaust tips, has no outward signs of what lurks beneath. Add a stage 1 re-map for 360 bhp & it really flies. Admittedly unless the suspension is modified it is never going to go around corners like a Porsche but the DCC in Sport mode (std on the L&K) firms it up quite a bit. I run mine in Sport mode most of the time unless "her in doors" is in the car when Normal or Comfort mode has to be adopted to protect her delicate rear end. My now low annual mileage means that fuel costs are no longer a major issue so 36mpg on a run or 25mpg around town are acceptable. For me it's the straight line acceleration that is most useful for quick safe overtaking when needed, effortless cruising, huge boot / rear passenger space & the sure footed 4 x 4 system when the weather gets a bit inclement. The perfect all rounder IMO.

I must say, the Corrida Red looks fantastic on the Superb But I be just a tad bias....

We all make stupid mistakes; the wise amongst us learn from them.

Hi all, thanks for all being so welcoming on my first ever meet. Was great chatting to you, will surely come to another one in the future. Hopefully by then I'll have added a couple more subtle external modifications to talk about!

In conclusion...now that my car is back on the road and stopping well. Many learning points from this event. 1. When you think you’ve done enough homework - do some more. 10mm is a lot when it comes to brake discs - if in doubt ask before buying - saves a lot of trouble in future and pandemic trips to Eurocarparts. 2. Wear gloves 3. If it doesn’t look right it probably isn’t. 4. M14 Spline Socket + 375mm 1/2” breaker bar will get bracket bolts off working from underneath with axle stands - be prepared for some serious stress positions. Adequate space for only about 1/4 turn at a time. Be patient. Thanks for the help - can’t believe I was silly enough to think it was going to work when it was so blatantly wrong - always a good day to learn. Thanks for the help and comments.

All check your PMs

Don’t worry I had zero intention of driving it with the discs grinding. Instead I double checked my work and discovered I’m a massive moron who went and bought the wrong sized discs. I’m off to euro car parts to exchange. Sorry to take up peoples time with unforgivable buffoonery. 🙄

>>>It seemed to occur if the revs drop to low and is an engine control feature That is what Skoda told me yesterday...if the engine goes below 900 rpm it will shut down to protect itself????????? I have the 2.0 D manual 4x4 and always thought it was me, I have never had a diesel stall so much. (previous Skoda Superb 2.0 D was ace) I ALWAYS turn off the stop start once its running. Its seems worse if you have dropped from 3rd to 2nd, let the clutch up and.....it stops!! Then the wife says she is having the same problems. Got rid of the 1.5TSI due to its software drive ability issues...looks like this one might be going!

^^^ That was later.@edbostan Fur coat and no knickers first.

Use a different garage, preferably one that is aware of how often wires break in this part of mk2 Fabias. Better yet, inspect the wiring yourself before involving any garage.

I'm no mechanic, no espert, but it's a common sense, right?

You are right, they should have checked condition of wires inside the rubber gaiter

Not directly heard of but no reason why it would be impossible to fail. Most of them are just basic thermistors. The cabin temperature sensor is behind the small 5mm-ish glossy circle in the clima control panel. It's possible to put the clima in diagnostic mode where the controls can select values to be read out on the media screen. I don't have a channel map for the Superb 2, only for the old A5 VWs. This would enable you to display a direct read-out of the cabin temp sensor (and other sensors). There are additional sensors in the intake plenum, and in each outlet (left centre and right high outlets, winscreen and left and right footwell outlets). There are two outside air sensors, one just behind the front bumper (don't think this one is used for clima, think it's for engine only) and one in the intake plenum (often combined with an pollution sensor). There is also a sunlight sensor just aft of the windscreen defrost vent outlet that can measure sunlight intensity to the left and right sides. These are all considered when selecting the airflow and heating/cooling settings so a failure of any could cause odd things to happen. VAS/VCDS would probably make the failure obvious.

In full agreement with @UrbanPanzer on the Chinese rubbish. I've just swapped out this (Chinese rubbish).... For this (Skoda Amundsen+).... And it really is like night and day. The Chinese unit was buggy, clunky, prone to crashing, had some awful counter intuitive menus, some questionable functions, and generally just felt awful to use, cheap and nasty. The Skoda unit works smoothly, and does everything it's supposed to. Neither unit was new enough to have Carplay mind. +1 on avoiding Chinese rubbish.

Amazing, 3 or 4 clicks either side and the noise is gone. Thanks to all