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Evening! I've had both the 034 Motorsport billet alu and APR stainless steel fitted to mine for the past 2.5 years; the 034 first, and the APR one earlier this year due to 034's admittance that additional strengthening was needed to avoid warping - which, once removed, had not occurred on mine. In terms of noise, vibration, harshness (NVH) there is a noticeable difference in all those areas, but personally it's not that much. It's obviously difficult to describe on here, but I feel it mainly in vibrations through the floor. Everyone has their own tolerances around NVH and is totally subjective. For me, it meets my tolerance level but then again I have stiffer springs and an aftermarket exhaust - so it only adds minor NVH to what was already a noiser (AKA "more purposeful...") car. I fitted it because I wanted reduced (if not eliminated!) wheel-hop, better manual gear changes, and peace-of-mind knowing I had some better components fitted to make the car 'feel' sportier, since it's Stage '1.5' remapped (additional components on Stage 1 map). Gears are easier to select and the manual throw is much less vague - not that it's a bad 'box to begin with, but you definitely get a lot more consistency with the 'felt' changes. It really optimises the car for me, and makes it even more enjoyable, so for that reason I can stand the NVH. Based on your initial post, if you want a 'smooth drive', it's perhaps not the best choice for you as it never really 'beds in' - you just get more used to it. In real terms: Noise - it took about 1 week for me to get used to it on daily drives, but doesn't add a great deal (especially not to mine). It's just more noticeable at lower revs. Vibration - You'll feel it in low rev maneuvers a lot more; reversing particularly. This does add to the 'harshness' factor, but the fix is to rev more OR just get on with it... It feels a bit like a 90s diesel Volvo occasionally, especially on cold start up. So if you do a lot of stop-start / commuting, it's probably not a great idea if you want a quiet, comfy drive. Harshness - The only thing I can add here is when you release the clutch without accelerator for a slow take-off / maneuvers, you'll feel more vibration. But it doesn't affect the drive much IMHO. If anything, the 'pros' that I added above re: accuracy of gear changes and the 'tightening' up of the whole car under revs is hugely addictive. I personally love it, but I am aware that I've optimised mine for performance where it counts, rather than make it the comfiest it can be. Swings and roundabouts 😃 My recommendation would be to really consider what you want to achieve by adding it, and whether it'll bug you having the vibrations. Good thing is it's not an expensive part to buy or fit, and - so long as you replace the bolt each time - its's easy to refit the old one if you test the APR one for a few weeks / months. EDIT: If you do go for it, be sure to identify the right part as there are 2 different shapes available depending on your individual car.

Well my first post was a fail, no pictures! I'm used to the old BBCode style forums. Think i've sussed it though, although i cant find the edit button anywhere even after logging in and out..

This wasn't a thread for exercise bike stats. It was a thread to give feedback on the OP's comments. To achieve a thusand calories burn, thats on my watch a 17km walk with 500+m of ascent and descent over 3hours, and thats only 665. We used to sell those old exercise bikes... To be honest, ferris buler, some blocks, a gto and a power drill on the gaugue sprang tio mind.

Reading with interest, and just wanted to say hang on in there TBS. It'll come good. I had a turbo (IS20) let go in my vRS back in 2018, so empathise with where you are now. My vRS (Octy 3 TSI 220) had a Revo stage 1 map, which of course meant the final bill (or much of it) was passed on to me. Bottom end was stripped down as there was swarf in the sump, and the oil pump was changed as a precautionary measure, but the engine (EA888) survived unharmed. The map wasn't the issue on mine as it turned out to be the coolant check valve. I was very suspicious of the turbo letting go as the issue had been a delay of heating to the cabin, and the turbo let go within two miles of the Skoda main dealer who'd worked on it only 30 minutes beforehand - I didn't make it home. Anyway, good luck for a better outcome and getting yours sorted out. Gaz

A proper MPV.....

I am of the opinion that most Briskodians will be more than accomplished enough, in their general erudition and education, to successfully endeavour in construing your verbiage correctly during a causal perusal Or put another way, we are not thick

Well a few months on from my earlier posts & after much research can report I have bought a couple of foldable Ancheer E-MTB's on Amazon for me & the Mrs. Very happy with the overall quality for the price paid (£749 each). They are a tad heavy which is mainly due to their foldable design but then all e-bikes are heavier than regular bikes. As previously stated I wanted a foldable bike so I could get them in the back of the car rather than have to put them on the roof which given the extra weight would have been a real work out! Batteries on these bikes are in a bag on the front handle bars which makes it easy to remove them for charging on or off the bike. Batteries are not too heavy but their location does make the bike a bit top heavy, but you get used to it. The bikes have 21 speed Shimano gears, full suspension (adjustable at the back), disks brakes front & back, a front light (not that I'll be riding in the dark) & folding peddles. After reading a user review of the bike I have changed the saddles for more comfortable ones with an integrated rear light. I've also added a seat post mounted rack & saddle bags for the back of mine to help carry my fishing gear & other stuff from the local shops. I have also fitted the optional twist & go throttle (supplied with the bikes) so I can just coast along when my legs give up the ghost on longer rides - which they will. I've had a couple of run outs locally on them so far & all was good. The wife struggled getting the right gear selection before going up hills but the battery pedal assist / throttle helped enormously. The suspension makes them so much more comfortable. I bought some bungy cords to strap the bikes together when folded in the back of the car & I will probably take the quick release front wheels off in the future to make it easier to carry them in the boot. All in all not bad at all & not much more than it would have cost to do a front wheel conversion on our existing 35 year old Falcon Majorca's which have no suspension, but back then nothing did have suspension! The old Falcon bikes will probably go up for sale at some point as I'm running out of space in the garage. Until then I plan to ease myself slowly into electric biking & try not to over do it. I should also explain that I have not ridden any sort of bike in anger since my early teenage years so all this exercise is going to come as a bit of a shock to my aging bones.

Well....today I completed my gearshifter repair, and without shelling out mega-bucks for the 'super-pin'! Total cost was around £24. Been for a 30 min test drive & fingers crossed I think it's been successful. Gear changes nice & tight & no sloppiness to speak of. Been a bit of trial & error, but eventually it worked just fine. The only thing now , is to see if it lasts, but I think it will. As soon as I get some time, i'll put up a thread on how to repair the broken pressure spring on the 'supposedly' unserviceable rivetted bearing pin shifter box.

Sorry, just saw your message Are you sorted now? To be honest. It was a process of things. I wants something max 2-3 years old. That meant the headlines in the Octavia would be those awful split lights which put me right off. Looked elsewhere as hadn't considered a Superb. Not really an Audi or BMW man. Finally came back round to the Skoda garage to look at a new Octavia non vRS and saw a superb in the right colour and a Sportline. It was a customer's car but was sold on looks alone. Sat in an estate and the wife declared it too cavernous. I agreed with the size of the hatch boot so the decision was made. I said I wanted the 280 for the power and so it was just a case of finding one. One eventually popped up on Motorpoint and we reserved it with 2 hours of it being on the site and had it brought up. Wife is more than happy driving it. Just looking into a tow bar now to save putting bikes on the roof.

Multiple posts here due to photo file size limit... Finally decided to buy one of these, at £500 they aint cheap, but when folded it fits into the boot of the Yeti, which most other wouldn't. It also has a a higher max bike load limit of 30kg, where most have a 20kg limit, and my ebike is over 20kg. Nice and portable and easy to carry one handed. Fits nicely into the boot when folded...

Great post by @Ads230 in line with my own experiences. I had the 034 insert for maybe 3wks, was great at first exactly as above but then I had some axle tramp return (the banging you've mentioned). That was when I discovered the additional advice on 034 Motorsport's website about needing the upper insert to prevent the lower insert from failing. My car had been tuned by the previous owner (output TBC) and made quick work of the lone lower mount, which had a noticable bend upon removal. I've since had a replacement sent out + the upper insert, but am yet to install it (hopefully this weekend).

Found DC Performance in UK so should be sound! Thanks, I'll let you know how I go on in due time!!!!!

antway Shy, why not start your own progress thread?? shy's MPC thread (miles per calorie)

I'm not sure to be honest, hopefully Thule's website might specify it?

Like many on this thread I had the same problem on my Superb II 4x4 TDI - taking miles and miles to warm up and then cooling down when going downhill. My nearest main dealer diagnosed the main thermostat, but when it was changed there was little difference. Like most main dealers they charge for a consultation which proved to be a waste of time. Thanks to this forum I explained to my usual independent garage what the problem was, gave them to part number and asked them to change the DSG thermostat. They called up a picture of the cooling system on their database and identified where the part was and acknowledged that I was not going insane! 3/4 hrs labour later and all is now well. Thanks everyone!

@Colin170CR @Gaz_ You have my sympathies guys what with hip, back and knee pain and buggered joints in general myself..... Years of hard manual labour and kitchen fitting, not to mention the punishment I have given it riding bikes and rowing and exercising.... I do count myself lucky that riding doesn't affect me too much, even with knackered ankle ligaments on one side. Hence the DSG. I still like to push myself on my bike........ Sometimes I suffer, sometimes I don't. Still haven't took the plunge on a Pedelec yet, due to redundancy unfortunately.

Good luck with the recovery. Yes the electrical assistance is the reason I bought the bikes + the softer ride compared to our old non-suspension bikes. I think I might be close on your heels for a hip &/ or knee replacement. Both my knee's are shot from ancient football injuries which prompted a switch to an auto gearbox a few years ago. HIps are not too great either. Can't lay on either side in bed for too long before the pain sets in & bending down to tie a shoe lace is not easy either. Walking on the flat is OK-ish but I can't do hills. Cycling is an attempted to strengthen the knee cartilage & stave off an op for a while longer. Fingers crossed!

This happened to me this week. Fortunately there is a detailed guide in the Yeti forum here which also applies to Mk3 Octavias. The part is about £35 and it takes 10 minutes to replace. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/383230-fuel-filler-flap/page/3/?tab=comments#elControls_4644299_menu

@vrskeith I was just out looking for some snow and ice to drive on and there were shooting parties around and about and various interesting vehicles. No snow left just dips in the road that were flooded and had frozen yesterday and were now turned to a bit like a slush puppy I was keeping an eye out for @Aspman

Yes though, (to Colin) good idea to incorporate different sports, topics and especially general health and tips....

I think you need to be upping your peak heart rate shy for a good cardio workout..... Ideally upwards of at least 85 bpm. Should be roughly 50% of your max. 68 bpm max for 30 minutes at average around 14 mph workout is pretty low. Calorie burn is about average for 2 hours exercise by my reckoning, so good.

erm I do I care what everyone posts and how they post. No one is anyones senior by any measure. Oh except me... hehe, I alwys forget that in my utopian dream for a forum... There are many thoughts for what I read when you've typed. This is as close to me revealing them as you'll get, because: We want to make BRISKODA as enjoyable as possible for the majority of our members. Yet with thousands reading and hundreds posting every day, we of course need rules to help keep the place running smoothly and protect our broad range of users. So here are a few key pointers to take into account when using the forums. We have also adopted some simple posting guidelines to help you. Summary: Be kind and respectful to each other. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines/ So please be a good fella and you know, don't be that guy ;)

Customers will have choice supportive bias: basically not wanting to acknowledge that the thing they have invested time and money in might be rubbish.

I haven't driven my Karoq at night yet either, but had Dynamic Light Assist Bi-Xenons on my previous Golf. These were extremely effective, with a mask that moved across the beam to shield other vehicles so that the main beam didn't dazzle them. When I selected the Karoq as a replacement I knew it wouldn't have this feature, and the LED lights work by turning individual light elements on or off rather than moving a physical mask. My understanding is that they adapt by widening or narrowing the beam at different speeds, or when you are in towns. So you should see further into the distance with a narrow beam on a motorway, or a wider beam when driving slowly on a narrow country lane. I've read that the cornering light uses both the appropriate fog light as well as a cornering beam in the headlight. So the turn-on dance is only testing the physical vertical adjustment to keep the beam level regardless of the load in the boot, and the sideways adjustment is purely electronic. It sounds like your car is performing as it should, and when lockdown is lifted I might be able to test mine out too! Chris

i always have plan in my mind since day 1 when i tuned my superb, if my turbo blows I will go straght to stage 3 with TT V5 with a differnet tuner. happy ending

You don't even need the dyno for that, you could log boost, ignition timing, afr, egt temp on the road (which is actually the most accurate way to monitor these things) by doing a complete 3rd/4th gear pull. Then you could share the values for discussion but unless you've had acquired some solid knowledge or spoke to a real expert you could be hearing all sorts of opinions again. No point in asking a tuner's opinion about another's remap. if you switched, you'd do it because it would be someone whose maps, according to your investigation, can be trusted "blindly" and call it a day, no point in digging deeper, spending your precious time and worrying about it all the time. And since I am getting the feeling that doubt has got in your head about the original tuner, your best course of action would be to get the car back and have it remapped by a better trusted expert (there's currently sales on a few well known ones...) Maybe it's not needed, but you'll be sleeping more peacefully.

Hello e-Roottoot, Many thanks for reply. Yes, welcome to the forum will be soon. Regarding your questions I will try to better explain. Q: How many miles had the car done when you got it and how many now? I bought that car with 31198 miles on a clock, now I have 40185 miles. Q:How often is the car doing regens? A: Not sure what are you asking for. What I have observed is that the car quite often has higher idle rpm, about 1000 instead of normal 750. I assuming that is a DPF cleaning. Q: Why not give the very expensive Shell V-Power a miss and even their Regular Diesel and go brim the tank someplace else. A: Are you suggesting that there is something wrong with the fuel? I can go and refuel on other station, but how this might impact mpg? Q:Saying per tank gives no idea of how many miles per liter you are getting. Is there a nice clean air filter fitted? A: There is about 40 liters sometimes 42 liters during refueling and I am doing 280 miles. I've done math, for calculation I took 41 liters for a tank. As a results came up: 1. That currently my fuel efficiency is as an average 31.1 miles / gallon or 9.1 liters / 100 km. 2. For previous mentioned 450 miles per tank that efficiency is as an average 50 miles / gallon or 5.62 liters / 100 km. That is is a bit what I can see. Previously I had to to about 100 miles until fuel gauge start moving down. Now it is just 40 miles. At the moment I have just bit more than half tank and I have done 130 miles. Regarding air filter, it was replaced on the 1st July (main service in Skoda), but in the mean time I was driving in rural area where was a lot of dust. I will check how actually it is looks now. Regards

Hi, I'm Ian, just joined this forum. I'm a mid-50s "retired" former Operational Analyst (don't ask if you don't want to be very bored), now running a bespoke car workshop doing one-off restorations and modifications in West Berkshire. I'm on my third Fabia -the first was a Mk1 TDi 1.9 which lasted me nearly 10 years and about 200,000 miles, replaced last year with a Mk2 TDi 1.6 which I really liked - until a blind git of a lorry-driver smashed into me on the M4 in June this year. Now driving another Mk2 TDi 1.6 which is throwing up the odd glitch... I live on a narrowboat, make my own sloe gin and marmalade, play cricket, used to play rugby, I used to drive and navigate on rallies (not at the same time!) and I still take photographs.

Over time the xenons colour-shift so even if you buy an identical matched xenon, there is a good chance it won't be the same colour. As both have likely had the same amount of use, the second may fail soon too. Therefore, I would suggest you replace both at the same time If you're happy with the stock performance, I'd replace both with either of the following: - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-classic-d1s-single - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-d1s-xenon-hid-bulb-single As a warning, there are lots of fake, low quality xenon bubs so always buy from a reputable, authorized supplier.

00010 camshaft A positioner slow response 00135 fuel rail/system pressure: too low 08801 boost pressure control valve (n249) mechanical malfunction Hopefully not a worn lobe on the camshaft. 00010 no idea. But rosstech says check n205 valve and wiring. This could be linked to the 00135 code? 00135 i had this code. I replaced the low pressure fuel sensor, low pressure fuel pump and the low pressure fuel controller. In the end gave up and took it to AKS tuning. They found out straight away that it was a different fuel preasure sensor which is on the underside near the inlet manifold. A previous owner had put the wrong sensor on 200psi and not the required 140psi. Solved the problem. A Genuine new low pressure sensor is not expensive and it isnt difficult to change so it may be a worthwhile starting point to uprate to the latest revision. 08801 no idea. But if you had to change dv or pcv: DV is cheapish but a little fiddly but easy enough. PCV valve and gasket is slightly more expensive but really easy to change.

I've been to the specialist this morning. He's going to ring me on Tuesday next week and let me know when someone will collect the car (probably towards the end of next week). He's agreed first steps are to check the engine over and take it from there. I passed on some of the conflicting information I've been getting about Littco. He's told me he's worked with Dan for 2 years now and has installed roughly 12 of his turbos without issue. I've lost a lot of sleep over the last couples of nights, and last night, I woke up and had this gut feeling that I wanted the car to go back to the original specialist because I want the car close to me. I don't want to send the car to a specialist 30 mile away where they can fob me off and ignore my calls, and be someone I've never met or spoke to. With the original specialist, he's round the corner so it's a 5 minute walk to physically go and speak to someone. While I have questions about the remap, maybe it's fine, maybe it's not, I don't know, I am confident that the specialist is perfectly capable of fixing the turbo. He's also suggested getting the car on the rolling road again at the end for comparison. The guy himself, while I've only spoken to him a few times, seems a nice guy, and while I have absolutely no idea whether or not the bad stories I'm hearing are true, I'm not inclined to believe everything the other tuner has been telling simply because there things they are saying that don't add up. Also, their remap prices are a fair chunk more than the tuner I went to, so maybe they're miffed about that are trying to damage his reputation. At the minute, I have no reason publicly slag off the specialist as I simply have no evidence at all that they've done anything wrong. It would be very easy to go public, name names when there could be absolutely nothing wrong with the map he's put on and it was simply down to an imbalanced turbo or something. In the meantime, I'm going to try and do some research and get an understanding of the maps on these cars, and once the car is fixed, and I'm to ask if he can take me though some of the key aspects of the map just so I can come away with some confidence. So if anyone knows someone, or knows about remaps themselves that can tell me what I'm looking for then that would be great. Essentially, what parts of the map would cause the turbo to fail, is it boost pressure, exhaust temps etc, and if I can see the car on the rolling road and I can see that certain parameters are within certain limits, then it'll give me some confidence at least. There's also things like overspool protection and thermal limits, what should those be set at so I can get him to confirm that those limits are not being exceeded. I'm not daft, I'm a software dev/engineer, so I shouldn't have an issue building up a decent understanding of ECU tuning so that I can ask the tuner the right questions.

Not if your income is low (like most farm workers) and you can't get finance - then you're stuck with what you have.

Someone explained it to me as driving gently allows the air flow over the rad/engine bay to spread the heat around in a more consistent manner. Also gets the g'box oil doing the same thing.

- Use regular diesel from a reputable brand - Put a new air filter in, it's simple and not going to hurt and a blocked one will certainly increase MPG - Winter diesel or diesel with extra life preservatives in it can cause slightly lower MPG As above how many miles, the fuel filter does make a notable difference, but not as big as above. When I changed mine, I found it easier to get a couple of extra MPG and potentially a bit more responsive/quieter. Certainly nothing like you're seeing and that was at 70-80k miles. Have you checked the temperature sensors? Have the DPF and it's sensors been checked? If the car thinks it's cold, even when it is not, then it will use more fuel. Ditto if the DPF thinks it needs to regen. Check the oil level and see if it goes up. If it does (unlikely) then regens are going on, getting intereupted and the extra fuel is ending up in oil. I will add, I don't think it's a common on VW engines, but I know it happened on other brands.

Hmmm... Not great. The metalwork is actually ok it's just the crass bling that's nasty... it would be much better with a one colour paint job and different wheels... And a smaller grille

Mine has done this as well. Can only think the satnav converts 30mph to 45kph. Andy

Dependant on the Shy ones height and weight 68bpm maximum maintained for 2 hours would equate to around 225 calories and not 1050. He would consume more lying on the settee watching the Tour de France and pressing the remote control button

Hi mate no I've been working long hours and trying to do bits in lunch hour etc cos it goes dark at 4. I've got tomorrow booked off and am going to silicone the sump back on and do a few other bits. Need to check the rear brakes and find a sump washer, been to motor factors today gave them reg and they gave me a sump plug too small. Also ordered a washer off ebay which is too small. The plan is to refill the oil and coolant on Sat and grit my teeth and turn the key 🤤it's going to be a tense moment 🤣 I have also just took delivery of 2 pattern part front wings so will be dry fitting them before getting quotes for painting. Hopefully it doesn't cost too much, didn't fancy trying to rattle can metallic green. Its turned into more of a project than I was expecting but hopefully will have a decent low mileage car at the end of it 🤞 If it runs ok I will film the engine after it's all back together I did film the before as well 😁

@shyVRS245 I think you need to check your heart rate at peak and resting with some other device.

Hey all Infrequent poster here, but stumbled across this thread and thought I'd chip in. I'd always hated running. Not through lack of fitness....I can walk in the hills all day...or go on an all-day epic mountain bike ride....but running ? I'd tried once or twice in the past, but I'd just get maybe 1/4 of a mile and be so out of breath and in so much discomfort that I'd give up, loathing it, and have no inclination to ever, ever try again. So for several years, I've firmly been a mountain biker (as are several of my mates in our village), while my wife has been a keen fell runner (as are quite a few people in our village, several of whom are my mates' wives). I'd had a partial meniscectomy (sp?) a few years ago which saw around a 1/3rd of the cartilage removed from my right knee, and I'd used that as a reason (excuse) not to run because I thought the impact could cause damage. I started to feel a bit bad though, that my wife would occasionally come out for a ride with me, yet I wouldn't entertain the idea of returning the favour and running with her. There was also an element of wanting to achieve something that had always beaten me. So right at the start of 2020, I decided to have another go. But this time, more gradually. I decided I'd follow the Couch to 5k, as a means of getting into it in a more controlled manner. First, I went to a local running shop and had a proper shoe fit, done on a treadmill with slo-mo video analysis of running style etc, so I gave myself the best chance of not injuring my knee. To start with, I didn't want anyone else to know I was trying to run, apart from my wife. Most times you walk down the road in our village, someone drives past who knows you....so I'd wait till late evening, drive 1/2 mile to a car park on a nearby trail, and do my deeds in the cold, wet, lonely darkness with a headtorch. I carefully followed the C25K guidance for the first 2 or 3 weeks. Run for so long, walk for so long....and repeat. Kept all my running activities private on Strava. About 3 or 4 weeks in I felt like I could run for a bit longer at a time than the plan suggested. So I gave it a go, and after about 4 weeks I managed to run 5k without any walking. After all these years (I'm 46) of thinking I couldn't run - it felt like a great achievement. It was time to "come out". But to add a bit of excitement I decided to do a Parkrun as my first "public" run and go public on Strava to see the surprise of my riding & running mates. My wife said she'd pace me, promising not to go too fast. I should have realised that was a complete and utter lie, and that she'd already decided what time I was going to run it in, and that time was quite a bit faster than I'd ever done. Also, she knew most of the pacers, and each time I went past one of the slower pacers, she'd tell them it was my first Parkrun, and they'd start shouting "support" from behind me, so I felt I couldn't slow down even though I felt like I was about to collapse and die. Ended up doing my first Parkrun 5k in 23:39, which was way faster than I'd ever run, and was the reason I ended up leaning over a fence at the end trying not to vomit. I felt elated though ! Since then, maybe once a week, I've been keeping it up. Now we're both WFH, I sometimes go out for lunchtime runs with my wife. I've found I much prefer cross-country now, much prefer exploring offroad and getting plastered in mud (probably the same reasons I prefer offroad mountain biking than road riding). There's less pressure on times - as it's all hilly, muddy terrain, it's naturally slower yet very challenging. Have even bought a second pair of running shoes now, for more offroad terrain. Never thought that would ever happen. Still a way off the 10+ pairs my wife has though.... I can now run 10k XC and still be able to function relatively normally at the end and without several days of aching afterwards, and with hardly any walking on the hilly bits too. I'll always prefer bikes to running, and I don't think I've fully got to the "enjoying it" stage of running yet, but it's a great feeling to conquer something that you always hated with a passion.

It seems that plans might have changed, part of the reason for relocating the Superb to the VW Bratislava factory in 2022, is to free up space for a Fabia wagon (the estate version), so appears will be estate version of Mk4 Timescales would appear to be early 2022, so I suspect the mk3 will continue about 10 months (although range might get rationalised in meantime https://www.world-today-news.com/the-relocation-of-the-skoda-superb-to-slovakia-is-to-save-the-future-fabia-station-wagon-and-the-production-of-kodiaq-in-the-czech-republic/

Size does matter. But now I’m prepared for the Swedish winter and icy roads.

And the view from the top of Blackfell, looking away from Windermere. We got a bit wet on the hike back down!

View from hiking up to Blackfell.

Fake exhaust trim wrapped

As these things go, yes you had your money's worth. But I'm not convinced that Skoda can't improve on the longevity of their waterpump's, given the quality of the other mechanical parts in their vehicles.

Put winter wheels on yesterday. Still satisfied with the detailing I had done on these wheels during spring. Still very shiny . Now the summer wheels are off, I just have to do the same (19" Trinity in black version) .

Had the same problem on my mark II. Fixed under warranty but the water was actually coming in from the rear quarter panel passenger side.

Ola Pedro Gaz

I disagree. 0-60 times will improve but that's not what it's about. If you want to chase drag times you are in the wrong car. Mid speed pick-up and flexibility is where the remap will help. Overtaking being the big one.