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Finally have the car back. I've been told to take it easy for a while. They've tried to get as much oil out of the intake as possible but there's a chance that there's still some in the intercooler so I need to go easy and not force it all through the engine in one go. The catalytic converter sustained some damage, but they don't believe it's going to impact flow so have left it on the car. The map is still on the car, and I'm going back to get the car on the rolling road in the new year just to check performance is still good and compare the new turbo to the old one. If it needs any tweaks they'll sort it out then. Total cost, £1150. While it's a lot of money, I'm over the money it wasn't something more serious.

I'm not condoning the removal of the silicate bag on your Skodas but the first thing I did when I got my Leon was remove it. That's speaking as someone who deals with the consequences of them failing on a fairly regular basis.

Men discussing brollies on a car forum....it'll be floral seat covers next

Ok, On another car of mine to help in the winter I cover the lower front grill up. Done this for several years and it helps the Diesel engine warm up both quicker and get hotter. Noticed on the Fabia that the oil temperature only goes up to mid 80's C in the winter. During the summer the oil will be at mid 90's C and when being used will go above 100 C. So I thought I would do the same to the Fabia. Only problem is that my Fabia has a collision avoidance sensor in the middle of the grill. But with a piece of Perspex cut to shape, with a hole cut for the sensor, and then painted matt black:- and held in place with some cable ties. ( what did I do before there were cable ties ) the results look good:- The engine oil now gets to mid 90's C, the engine warms up quicker and the heater works even better / quicker. Result. Thanks, AG Falco

Another pic from up in the hills. We had about 6 inches of snow over the w/end but it’s mostly now puddles with a little still piled up at the side of the road. Still some white stuff up in the Cairngorms though. Loving Petrol Blue in its Dark and Moody mode.

As an FYI, the Skoda maps tend to lag behind the VW releases. The latest full Europe maps for a MIB2 Amundsen (aka Discover Media) are these: http://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_1520_V13.7z You just need to download them and extract to the SD card, it's pretty tight on a 16GB card so make sure it's freshly formatted (fat32) with a 4k cluster size There are a few other choices if you want a smaller download/mapping area:

I guess if the Op already has a Karoq, he/she will know if need 4wd, or if it is deadweight majority of the time. One thing is for certain, (and very obvious if you go in the tyres section) that the tyres the car comes with are specified for warm/hot dry sunny days. It is of course a lot cheaper to buy tyres suitable for all year use in UK climate (where we get cold rain) to get traction in slippery conditions, than pay extra for 4wd system. Recent tests have shown that wet grip in modern summer tyres falls over dramatically below about +11c, and is much worse than you expect lower temperature gets (even above zero). What seems to have happened is since all seasons have been introduced, summer tyres are optimised for WLTP tests (which I think is at +25c). Rather higher than average UK day and night, hence now inappropriate. And if you really need convincing there are plenty of videos of spinning all 4 wheels fitted with factory summer tyres, whilst a 2wd version with more appropriate tyres leaves it for dead when it is slushy or snowy.

Superb - thanks for confirming

Yes, those are correct for the brake and reverse

I'm not suggesting replacing the parts, simply paying the necessary labour to get them cleaned so they are as good as new. Clogging and blockages only happen to old dirty parts.

Why do you think that spending a few hundred quid constitutes a huge repair bill? You'll spend a vast amount more changing cars, thousands of pounds which will just slide off in depreciation. If you're worried about the EGR and DPF then get them properly cleaned before they go wrong, prevention is always better (and cheaper) than cure.

. Just realised where I have screwed up, I have the VW App not the Skoda app No wonder it didn't like my VIN. As the Skoda is part of the VW Group ! Time to uninstall and start again me thinks......!!

Disclaimer: I'm going on how my Superb acts but in essence it will be exactly the same as your Kodiak. The S3 doesn't have the option to lock the boot as described above but that wasn't what the initial problem was and my reply was about being able to open the boot from a considerable distance away. Anyway, going back to what I asked earlier, have you tried to open the boot with the key inside the pouch as the pouch may not block transponder and kessy signals as they may be operating on different frequencies? BTW, are you sure about your dog's driving capabilities?

@CFB sounds like your next step is to build a Faraday cage to keep the car in 👍

From memory the plugs are all the same unit provided by Texa diagnostics. It's only the app that differs. I use a skoda plug and the skoda app in a Seat, it works well.

Which app have you downloaded? Skoda Connect Lite works for me with a VW plug.

Wino, you were right! It was indeed fuse 11. When you said “have I checked fuse 11” I did, but I was looking at the fuse box diagram back to front 😬 so a new window switch, new loom and several hours scratching my head was all because of a missing bloody fuse 😳 anyway, a note to anybody with windows and mirrors not working.. don’t just check fuses 51 and 52, because fuse 11 also operates the windows! thanks to all who commented, especially Wino. cheers

I got a small telescopic black unbrella that fits perfectly frrom Home Bargains store, about £2.99 I think. I also have a larger one that fits across the back of the boot that's somewhere between a normal brolley and a golf one. You know the kind of size, not quite big enough to shield 2 of you when its raining.

I just ordered Bilstein shocks and coils. mine is VRS so sports suspension. But other VAG sites swear by Bilstein. https://www.bilstein.com/uk/en/products-and-services/

... and less weight

It will be good to know once there are members driving them that can say how far they go from a full charge in the real world of the UK at whatever temps. It would be really good if Magazine Motoring Journalists also drove them and paid attention and put it in print. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/487433-supern-iv-improving-battery-performance

For me this paragraph neatly how illustrates the "official" emissions and fuel consumption figures will be meaningless for the majority of owners:

Thank you pmdc199 for the info, mine has three bolts as the disc size is 280 mm, i thought it was a special socket for the drive shaft bolt the 24 mill fits ok, ordered a set of triple square spline set, it doesn't look too bad a job i just wanted to make sure i had all the right tools before tackling the job. Cheers.

My guess is that when reversing slowly that the clutch never fully engaged and continues to slip. Pressing harder likely fully engages the clutch and so when releasing it is causing a this (could just be the drivetrain in general) or the clutch it self. Doing this in a manual would likely bring the same result.

cheers both my wife and i were in a camera club down here in Penzance when we lived there 1978-2000 thought you might have meant that. best place to learn the basics and finer approaches to taking images... and if you want to win a place in the top 3..it gives you impetus to take photos...and learn from the winners i did trannys and my wife did B>W prints thanks, Geof

I can see a bit of the M, the A and the C also.

Have you a Pc or Mac with iTunes that you could plug it in to the USB port of? If you have you can then use iTunes to restore the operating system. You need the iPad to be in recovery mode before you connect it to the PC or Mac.

The following is based on logic and not actual knowledge of a 190. The 184 has a bigger turbo than 150 so the 190 will likely be in a similar boat. Could even be an updated version of the 184 turbo. On top of that it's likely there are differences with the fuel system so support the increase in air flow. There are likely to be other differences with the head and other ancillaries to support more power and decreased emissions as is the way with engine development. Edit: To clarify I have a 150 Octavia with a map and pedal box. It's fun but not a super car.

No way ! going to give it a good clean this afternoon I was going to drop the new head bolts into the holes to stop and debris getting in there while I clean, was going to use the green side of a sponge to clean with petrol then apply a layer of engine oil once done and might get the hoover out first also

On a used car, I'd suggest checking the part number. You can find it by pressing Menu > Settings > System information on the headunit. That's just to rule out a previous owner having swapped the display One quick google later and I'm pretty sure that on a 2018 car, the Amundsen is an 8" screen like this: Where as a Columbus is a 9.2" screen like this: As I say, feel free to post a picture, ideally showing the part number to confirm

This is a tablet holder. It is not meant to be mounted on your front dash, but with the thingy on the left it can be attached on the headrest for a passenger on the back, or like the member above me mentioned - between the cupholders in the rear seat armrest. The bin is definitely not on the pic, it is a piece of plastic that is mounted in the door, check whether they haven't mounted it for you.

I can see that your catch mechanism is stuck and needs freeing off, and/or the return spring may be broken (unlikely but you never know). On yours, the black bit in the orange circle is stuck back from the cable end... A pic of mine showing cable end in contact...

^^^ That would have been 2 simply clever for the UK. A Green Plate might show others that a vehicle can be in a bus lane, restricted areas etc but ANPR is still needed to check a vehicles class. That is for the vehicles that are allowed because they are 'zero emissions' and the Green Flash Plates are not going to be compulsory. I have had 'Traffic / Street wardens' checking out my car closely to see i had not stuck the charger in the fuel filler. One warden actually told me i had as he was preparing a ticket at a car park with chargers and free parking for EV's but a ticket machine for the other spaces.

That is certainly not my experience. In the past two weeks I have had both a slow puncture (bloody blackthorn - it's evil stuff) and a leaking valve on separate wheels. In both cases it was the TPMS that alerted me and when I checked pressures, on each occasion the tyre was down by some 3-4lbs - so the system seems quite sensitive in my view. Conversely, in the Spring I had an instant blowout after hitting a big pot-hole and there was nary a peep from the TPMS. Go figure! I suppose it was because I stopped instantly before the ABS sensor had a chance to re-act.

If you want to chance your luck then be prepared for the police being better equipped to catch you out. Number plates can be read at up to 1.5km away (but currently set at 750m) but what's worse is that they now work in the dark! Read the Auto Express article here.

I both Judge images mainly for Camera Clubs and teach people to become Photography Judges. Thanks, AG Falco

Your problem (at least for the purposes of the MOT test) is the lack of an engine management light (EML) on start up. This doesn't in itself indicate a fault, but it does mean a failure of the test as this light is supposed to work. So don't be trying to fix a fault with the engine or exhaust emissions stuff, because the fault doesn't lie there. You need to find out why the EML isn't working. That may be simply a failure of the led for that particular light, or more sinister someone has mapped out the EML to hide an expensive fault which they didn't want to fix.

The mud just gets all over the mudflaps which with my OCD I really can't stand so I was endlessly washing the mudflaps ! I don't bother with them on any cars now...... They might be worth having if you are "normal", but as they don't seem to actually stop the car getting dirty and there is now 4 dirty mudflaps to see as well, they are a no no for me !

All my bits came this Morning for upgrading my current Karcher Set-Up, Absolute Game changer and well impressed Looking forward to trying it out! Old Karcher Set Up... New Set Up, Autobrite Shorty Gun, 8M Heavy Duty Hose, 2 x Adaptors to upgrade existing Karcher Connections to Quick Release and Quick Release Interchangeable Nozzles 0°, 15°, 25°, 40° and 60° degree sizes... Converted existing Autobrite Lance from Karcher (Top) to New Style 1/4 Male Quick Release Connector (Bottom)... Autobrite Shorty Gun & Lance Combo... Old vs New...

It does detect slow deflation, even over a very long time period.

You have to download the maps to the Skoda card, any other SD card won’t work.

Ferryden, Montrose.

Have you tried a re-callibration?: Gaz

You take the SD card home and update it on a computer with an SD card reader. You can update the Ents system with a USB stick but not the Nav. You don't need to buy a new SD card.

cam chains on petrols has a sticky post at the top of the section. worth a read to to know what to ask any potential seller. diesel vs petrol really comes down to which fuel suits your usage better as to what issues you may end up facing.

Fitted some bits I’ve had for a while, new gearbox mount as I’ve had a lot of movement from that side and engine rocking causing dump valve to knock on strut brace. Dogbone mount was virtually new so thought I’d change gearbox first. It was obvious that the 15year old mount was past its best when removed, the rubber wasn’t split but it was very easy to move and flex it even with just my fingers. Also fitted some draft 42 solid shifter mounts while I was in the area.

It's almost pointless trying to drill out the bit or plug when the correct socket is £6.45 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001IL8FZW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AMK6ALALRQJZA&psc=1

@shyVRS245 Have a closer look to the other thread... Only 5.3L upon dry fill or 4.7L upon service fill. May be your fingers have merged both values in 5.7l...