Leaderboard

It depends on the car and more importantly, the tyres. Back in the early 80's when I was pretty broke, I drove around in a Fiat Panda. I remember it would go pretty much anywhere. I'd park it in drifts at the side of the road and drive off again without any problem. Equally, a few years later, my BX would go pretty much anywhere on its standard Michelins.

My new purchase - absolutely over the moon with this bad boy!!!

There are 3 'versions' of the Mk3 vRS with a 245bhp drivetrain. Chronologically, the first is the 'vRS 245', which launched in the summer of 2017 and was a special edition vehicle (with standard fit optional extras) that sat as the range topper above the regular vRS with 230bhp. The following year, the 230bhp drivetrain was discontinued and the regular vRS received the 245bhp drivetrain - this also often gets referred to as a '245' so as to distinguish it from the earlier 230bhp cars. This was shortly followed by a new range topper, the '245 Challenge Edition' which was very similar to the original 'special edition' 245 with some standard fit extras. You'll find the original version mostly on 67 and 18 plates, with a handful of 17 plates (and possibly a few 68 plates). The specification of these cars added the equipment listed below (compared to the 230bhp vRS of the same period): (Also not mentioned above, Performance Dials available in the infotainment system for boost, oil temp, power etc.) The gloss black 19" wheels and tail pipes are one of the most obvious visual clues that a car is a 'special edition', along with badges that have a black V rather than a grey V, albeit as the years go on more and more will be getting modified, so this method of identification can't be relied upon. Things that all 245s got regardless of the year or version are the VAQ electro-mechanical diff and the updated 7 speed DSG. The 245 Challenge edition gets much the same list of added extras but also includes Dynamic Chassis Control (DCC) and KESSY. Hopefully that helps work through what is quite a confusing timeline.

Looks like a nice fit, i love a good rivnut!

Had the same freezing door / lock mechanism here the last few days as well but it has been -5 or so. It only appears to affect the drivers door so I'm starting to wonder if it is just down to how I park on a slope that means any thaw leads to water running into the lock which then freezes, or if it's to do with the drivers door being the only one with a keyhole in the handle?? Like you I've yet to find a solution and have tried squirts of WD40 and de-icer as well, which don't seem to work, meaning I've resorted to getting in the passenger side, starting the car and turning heater and heated seats on full tilt to warm things up.

Rear brace looks just the job! How is it bolted to the shell Trevor?

The direct systems are more of a pain than useful. The sensors are normally out and show incorrect pressures. Then there can be issues with the sensors not connecting properly etc. Sometimes less is more with certaim systems. I routinely check my pressures every 2 to 3 days and my guage is more accurate than any sensor.

So I've had chance over the last few days to test out the Hankook Synergy 4S all seasons. We've had a load of snow and crazy cold weather (was -17c last night!) so the snow just isn't melting. I am super impressed. I've been up and down hilly country roads, through the town in start stop, roundabouts, car parks etc. Been spot on and really good grip and feedback. There was only one time where I got stuck. I parked up at work in fresh snow scraping on the bottom of the car. Then it snowed all day. I tried to drive off but the snow under the tyres had melted and turned to ice and then I couldn't push through the snow. Had to dig a bit of snow out the when and then managed to get out.

Yeah, that’s what I’m beginning to think about. Snow has been mad here and gritters concentrating on main routes. Will call around local fitters in the morning. Even Michelin cross climate would be a decent alternative at the moment and I would probably leave them on and sell the <3500mile factory fitted tyres.

After a bit of hoop jumping (and help from here) the virtual cockpit retrofit is done and all working. RS theme on the VC and Android Auto Performance Monitor ties together nicely

Bought 15l of their concentrated winter Screenwash. No details on the bottles or website. Diluted 50% and it froze at -4°C. I now note the website says it's good for -4°C undiluted. Please bring back the Lidl -60°C stuff!

SE L Executive hatch 280PS TSI 4X4 Alcantara with DCS, KESSY, LED Plus, flappy paddle gearshift, rear seat drop from control in back of boot Collected it today.

I'm in Staffordshire, not Wales, and I'm trying Teso's Super Unleaded. It may not be 98 RON from what you say, but since I haven't had to refill my tank since last November I'm a bit hazy on the details Chris

As yours says 95 Ron minimum you are very likely to benefit from improved performance and better fuel consumption using higher octane petrol as in para 2 above. Anyone with 95 recommended Ron sticker are very unlikely to experience any benefits and there is not much point paying the extra 5p a litre. My 2.0 Tsi Kodiaq likes Tesco momentum 99.

I've attached an Nov 2017 brochure for you. I went for a '245 edition' as I wanted heated seats and power folding mirrors. From the used stock available at the time, one had DCC as an extra so I chose that! Octavia Brochure Nov 2017.pdf

The fixings on the window surround - part 3 in the pic either need the centre bit pulling out with a sharp knife and pliers to release them or push the centre bit through and lose it it the tailgate, ask me how I know...

ok I took this one to my Skoda Dealer...and he confirmed that USB-C update is turned off on MIB3 as everything is pulled from the internet...so you either have the eSIM package through Cubictelecom or you have a 4G hotspot in your car and get the head unit connected. He also confirmed that for Devices 3V0035816B the 20.11 navigation is the latest...for 3V0035816C which is for example mine, it`s the 19.11 the latest but nothing to worry about as when you have net connection, it always download the latest maps for your route. The fact that the HW and the SW version is the same on all Device part numbers (B & C) does not mean they run the latest SW

It’s rivnutted in, you just need to drill the holes, top two are into the bracket that attaches straight to the strut top and bottom one goes into the triangle brace that goes arch-boot floor. They supply the rivnuts and a manual tool for fitting them. ive had the forge one before and didn’t notice any difference, wasn’t expecting anything with this other then looking good. But could feel it was stiffer straight away

I added some sound deadening to my boot and it highlighted the problem. I ordered some higher force rated ones and got sent identical ones by mistake but they do open it a lot better, cars only 4 as well

I thought it was a very tidy prepared engine, and good news its up and running.

God that's bad, I thought they would be great. Glad I'm driving a mkII.

You could do what I did many times with an airbag light and leave it until the next MOT and ask the tester to clear it. Mine charged a few quid as he was already dealing with the car. I had a problem with the infamous airbag connector under the driver's seat. Skoda claimed they did not know what caused the problem ??????! but assured me the bag would deploy in a crash.

VCDS works perfectly with a MK2 FL. It's certainly more than capable of clearing an airbag light. Regarding the second fog light tweak, that's because VAG moved the functionality from the long coding into the lighting configuration section of the BCM EEPROM. As VCDS can't access the BCM EEPROM, it can't enable the second fog

A 90ahr Alternator will give maximum of 90 amps when the engine speed is above 3000rpm.If the battery is fully charged it will not take any current. So two 100watt spotlights will need 2 x 8.5 =17 amps.So there should not be a problem,BUT if the engine has just been started, battery will take about 50 amps.If other high current items are switched on especially in cold weather, like rear screen heater about 10 amps,heater fan on high say 5 amps,and headlights on full say 10 amps.making a total of about 75 amps will be required. Once the battery is charged up (about 30 minutes driving) will leave about 30 amps available which will allow your 100w spotlights to be used, leaving about 13 amps for other ancillaries like the radio and wipers.

Yes you can delete by any cables

There are so many issues with the car. Driving is good but the software and cabin ergonomics are terrible! Have had many Skodas and thought the MK4 would be brilliant. It isn't. Like others I've virtually given up with Skoda as nothing gets corrected. I will never buy a Volkswagen group car again. Now looking elsewhere as not sure I can live with this car.

I can only empathise. I've had this occasionally for years, just on very cold days (like today). I've not found a permanent fix. Best quick fix so far, if at home, a mains heat gun on the area and it was OK in under 2 minutes. I seem to recall warm water poured over the door near the handle does it too. But for sure it'll happen again. I suppose some tiny amount of water in the mechanism freezes and I imagine stripping the door and drying mechanism with hot air then spraying with WD40 might get rid of it properly but have not tried. I hope someone else has an answer.

I bought a £5 Bluetooth elm327 reader from eBay, so far it seems to be able to read all values I have cleared one abs error so I assume you can clear anything. Don't be fooled by the price these readers are probably cheap to make and the higher priced ones are just ripping you off.

Most people here tend to use VCDS or OBDeleven but both are more than £30. Where are you based? A local member might be able to reset the airbag light for you

Agreed. My Citroen 2CV and Dyane were unstoppable in snow. High ground clearance and 30bhp are ideal.

The owners manual covers many options and counties that may not be relevant. As above, what does the fuel flap filler sticker say.

Here u go..... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-H11-6000LM-Led-Headlight-Kit-High-Low-Beam-Vehicle-Replace-Halogen-Xenon-/233437637912?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Won't bore you too much but it's to do with emission levels and warm up times. The car has 3 coolant circuits and the on start up (cold) the shroud limits the water flow to just the smaller circuit and ignores/omits the larger radiator circuit. This way the car warms up quicker and results in better fuel use etc so the emissions look better. Another emissions related `idea` that doesn't work so well.

Best time to buywinter tyres and wheels has to be in the previous summer. Any ordered now are likely to arrive after you no longer need them, and will cost the maximum price at the moment. Another 7 weeks or so and I will be thinking about putting the summer tyres back on depending on the long range weather forecast, sometime in April!

Eco softens the throttle response although probably not enough for the snow conditions you are talking about. tom

Sales of AllSeason and winter tyres are going to hit the roof this year! And all this snow everywhere else, in our part of the Heelands we’ve had the square route of naff all recently. Roads are all clear, even the ones that haven’t seen a gritter in decades, and even with temps down to -10c through the night the ice is melting with the sun. No fun in the snow on our roads, obviously where allowed.

I've spoke to a few tuners who have said they wouldn't remap a car that had a Littco turbo. The main reason seems to be that something like a map from REVO has had hours and hours of testing done on the stock IS38 turbo. The Littco L380X is slightly different and introduces a tiny amount of lag (not noticeable) but gives you more boost/flow at the top end. I think tuners are concerned that their maps won't be as effective on something untested. I had one turner tell me they would tune it, but couldn't guarantee the results. Like you, Ive had a tuner try to steer me towards a Turbo Technics turbo, but I think that's only because that's what they work with and know. My tuner, and another that's fairly local both work with Littco, so if you go to them that's what they suggest. It all depends on the tuner. I don't think these tuners think there's anything wrong with Littco turbos, it's just that they are not familiar with them. The tuner I used know the guy from Littco and has helped out and done testing for them, so it seems obvious he'd stick with them. As mentioned, I've had a nightmare with my car. But after a lot of research to speaking to a load of tuners, I'm confident that the map itself wasn't the cause of my turbo failure. It's more likely that my stock IS38 was balanced within manufacturer tolerances, but possible just. Once the turbo has been asked to produce more boost, it's just given up. My problems would have ended there if the recovery guy hadn't have tried over and over again to start the car to get it onto his truck, as we believe this is where the damage to the crank bearings has come from. When he was turning it over, we heard a metal grinding noise (probably a spun bearing). Cost wise, I think I'm up to around £3k to get the car back on the road. That included replacement turbo, and new crankshaft bearings and seals. If I had only needed a new turbo, then £1200. I keep seeing posts online saying get a REVO map, don't go independent. But if you do your research, you'll see that turbo failures occur on REVO maps as well, although I think any turbo failure is less likely these days compared to when the Golf R etc first came out as VW have made various changes to the IS38 over the year in an attempt to reduce the number of failures, but I think still the underlying issue is there, just nowhere near as apparent. The only advice I can give to anyone remapping the IS38 turbo is, don't floor it until the engine oil is up to speed. There are those that believe that these turbos fail because of a lack of oil supply to the bearings. If you're flooring it when the oil isn't warmed up it won't be flowing as well through the turbo and won't provide the required lubrication. The second bit of advice is, listen out for any sort of whine coming from your turbo as low revs, as this is a clear sign that the bearings are warn. I had this noise, but I just assumed it was something to do with the remap. I could kick myself that I didn't do anything about it and get it looked at sooner.

+1

It was crazy yesterday here in Forfar with cars not even able to drive along totally flat streets. Usually cars and vans get about OK but just now the ice under the snow is an issue and brand new cars / tyres.... Mercedes A200 types, VW Tiguan and the worst i have ever seen was a new Vauxhall Insignia that turned off the ploughed and salted main road and could just not move anyway other than sideways. I am using Michelin Alpin 6 and they are very good. My Shogun is on CrossClimate SUV's and they are just OK. It is sitting now covered in snow as the driver side wiper stopped working as the snow built up below the bottom of the sweep and it went wonky. 4 inches more to be cleaned off the car this morning before i go any place.

Might want to replace crankshaft oil seal while your there, it sits behind the flywheel. It may be ok but while you've got that far could be an idea.

Each lamp uses about 8.5A so maybe you can figure it out from there.

If stuff is working then it seems like a bad idea to change the coding to what you think it should be. Isn't some of the stuff set by adaptations rather than long coding, so whilst something might not be set there, there may be an adaptation on that module where it is set instead.

Loctite bearing fit or a second hand hub carrier, hard to imagine any country where a machinists time to machine the housing then turn up an annular ring to both bearing fit and interference fit tolerances would work out less than 10 new hubs let alone one second hand one. And the finished job would be dangerously weak compared to an original hub.

Having previously run VW Tiguans on 19", 18", 17" and 16" wheels with winter tyres on the 17's and 16's. I concluded that the best compromise in respect of ride, handling, steering and traction was 17's. Indeed, I'm currently running Michelin CrossClimate+ on 17's on my remapped 150 TDI Yeti and Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on my wife's Karoq 190 TDI. I find the CrossClimates on the Yeti to be great most of the time, especially in the wet and cutting through standing water. They lag behind the Dunlops in ice and snow, especially in their braking performance. I can't say good enough good things about the Dunlops, having used both D4 and D5 iterations as well as Pirelli, Hankook and Kumho winter tyres. The Dunlops make an AWD car unstoppable in the snow, until you want to stop and they do that very well too.

So keyless entry eats batteries and allows thieves to quietly walk off with your car.... Shame they don't have an option on all specs to not have keyless entry

Yep, very pleased with it. I think the dogbone mount is 'code F' though, and am waiting on a new one, probably Wednesday arrival/fit. I think then I'll really be able relax, put my feet up and say to the missus; "There you go, all good for another 100k+ miles... ....FFS don't crash it tomorrow!"

The replacement engine came from a Polo, so has oil level and temperature sender. I wonder how long I'll be able to resist adding the necessary wire to the cluster to get that to do something... Not sure whether the cluster can display oil temp if coded right, but oil level warning facility might be useful if that at least could be enabled.

I know you can zoom in and out using one of the wheel controls which doesn't help as you don't want to keep doing that at junctions! The Google Maps system seems a lot better - and having tried the car's nav the other day between a couple of villages it took me on a bizarre route and at one point tried to take me thorough a private estate/Horse stud farm! Not sure how much I trust it now!

I know folk may not keep their cars for more than 5 years from when they do the tank change - but it is important to tell the dealer/trader that you sell your car to - that the coolant silica bag has been removed. VW/Skoda's records will still have lifetime coolant in it. The alternative is to ask your local Skoda Dealer or VW Specialist to put a note into your car VIN's details - that coolant will need to be changed after 5 years.