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New car round 2!! Finance accepted and deposit paid on this one from Marshall’s. I am much happier with the incredibly thorough service from Marshall’s, have been through all the history, had a video sent to me, no pressure throughout and they’ve cut me a deal I’m really happy with on it. Collection on this one will be 3 weeks today as I need to wait for the Octy to go first as it is a bit more than the other one but it’s a facelift with some options which is what I really wanted. Let’s hope this one is better 😍 Will start a fresh thread when it arrives, keeps things separate 😊

Update on the Anti-Roll Bar: It's definitely made a big difference to the handling characteristics of the car. Now that roads have dried off a bit - had a chance to test it out. Car feels so much flatter through the bends and that whollowing feeling (if it could be described as that) is reduced massively. Well worth the money and reasonably cost effective. Car had a good clean and detail a couple of weekends ago with some Dodo Juice Orange Crush applied, gave the paint quite a bit of pop! Here some shots of the motor with its skirts, diffuser and new wheels on show. At the moment not sure what else to really do to it, would love to put black and blue badges and the red and black VRS badges on from Superskoda, but cant justify the price (40Euros for a badge is a bit excessive like) Currently weighing up on whether or not to ditch the OEM shocks and H&R springs for BC Racing Coilovers to get the heights exactly how I really would like it to be. H&R Springs are fantastic but don't give the drop I would really like - which is only a little lower that what it is currently. Still on the fence to take the plunge back into the coilover world

Wrestling with arch liners and front bumper most of the day. Such an effort just to replace the darn grille!

I'm not an expert (or even Australian) but I'm sure you'll need some filler to go with the touch up paint when repairing a kangaroo chip.

Find the build data sticker in the boot or service book and look for a PR-code that specifies which rear brake set-up you have. It will be 1KD, 1KS or 1KJ, corresponding to one of the three last diagrams here: wheels, brakes Yeti (YET) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com)

Think you've made the right call Sasha with Virtual Dash and Supernova's which suit it so well and Vrs TDi matching power.

I think you've gotten hold of the wrong end of the stick, this forum is a great resource but when it comes to tuner bits this model is too old now to get any new stuff made, particularly in RHD which is a tiny little market, all the RHD stuff has run out and there won't be any more production runs. Modifying LHD parts for a safety critical, MOT testable application like the headlights purely for cosmetic reasons doesn't make any sense on any level.

Hello all 👋 My Audi A6 came to end of lease. Was looking at other estates and pulled the trigger on a Octavia VRS. Meteor Grey - was unsure of which colour . Hope I made the right choice! DSG 245 Reverse camera DCC Winter Pack Undecided on the Canton sound. Delivery about 4 months. This will be my first Skoda. Any one use one for transporting a large dog? Wondering what covers are available to protect the boot Dealer also offered me 2 years free servicing. Looking forward to being an active member

Received on 1st March, so nice to drive it on the first day of a new registration, not that anybody cares much about new registration years anymore! So far love everything, smooth cruiser, rapid turn of speed when required and a quality feel. Couple of issues with wireless charing dropping out, and Apple CarPlay struggling to stay connected along with Keyless locking rarely working. I'll do some searching on here and see what I can find.

Traded in my Superb today as I no longer needed the space. I'll miss the power and comfort but I hankered after something smaller again. If anyone is looking for a well cared for 280 L&K, it's up for sale on Autotrader by SDM in Falkirk. I can let anyone know its details if they are interested. Thanks for a great, friendly forum.

Congratulations Sasha. The TDI190 is SO much better than the 150 unit. The one in my Octy Scout rocks! It looks like like a fantastic car. As you said, the budget is blown.....hope to see it in the flesh soon!

Well after a year of watching EMBN on YouTube i finally bought an emtb originally wanted a full suspension bike, but after much thinking and the fact I probably won’t be launching myself down the side of a Cliffe anytime soon, and 97% of the time I would be on road and odd flat trail I decided on a hard tail. Went to the local bike shop a couple of times to see what they had in, first couple of visits was very little due to no stock because of COVID. Went in last week to see what was available, and they still had a long lead time and no guarantee of getting the bike. But I saw a Haibike Sduro Hardseven in a large size which was the last bike they had in stock. Was told to take it for a spin round the block, Wow what a machine, so comfortable to ride, with so much room, coming from a 25yr old bike! So I said I would take it, thinking I would come back in week to pick it up, “We can have it, ready in an hour for you to take today” came the reply , so I rode it the 8 miles home all through the towns, not cycling gear on. Anyway that enough rambling on, Been out a few times and clocked up 65 miles in a week, normally used to manage 18.. So here is a quick pick.

A quick google shows that SACHS race clutch would be what you are looking for. https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit/performance-clutch-sachs/performance-clutch-kit-001422-999505b

I think you won't regret the color choice. Topic about the boot covers:

Deffo! Yeah it does have the full size spare which is another handy extra.

This one is lowered with Eibach springs and has front spacers 10 mm per wheel and back spacers 15 mm per wheel.

https://www.wrc.com/en/news/2021/wrc2/audi-quattro-set-for-wrc-comeback/

If you have replaced these and still no luck, start going through every inch of wire.

Change one or all of these, then try.

Another vote for Osram Night Breakers. I find them really good.

Glad you bought it probably saved me £4,000 and an argument with the wife.

I was silently gutted when this one came for sale after I paid the deposit on the other one so I’m super stoked to have it, would have bought it anyway this afternoon after the other one went wrong lol

Yes you can use any Skoda dealership if you have a Skoda warranty. Common problem with water in doors. I just moved the seals to let water out. Had mine for 5 years and no problems, very reliable car

That’s the one, it’s got some nice options with Pano roof, digital dash etc. With any luck it’ll have my plate on soon. all the best

How about a scrap yard

They would still do a pure up down “dance” just without the left right movement.

Indeed they are "solid". Look after it and it will last a very long time. Don't scrap it when it needs a dual mass flywheel and clutch. That's what has removed many from service. The car you replace it with won't be as "solid". How were the emissions in the last MOT? That's the other issue.

Hi mate number 3 are 20" GMP Italia Angel Black/Polished

Mine would be doing about 28-30mpg under those conditions. Has seen 44mpg on a good run.

no idea what its meant to be for, and 1 unbrella but i nicked another when they lent me a car so i had 1 in each door 😂😂

It wasn’t even cheap though! It was a good price but not too good so that makes it worse. If they’d have been amenable to a discount we could have done something as DG is such a rare colour but they weren’t so I didn’t even take the keys, once I asked him if it had all 3 and he said it only had 1, I just walked.

How much are they suggesting it would be as Private Light Goods?

Glad that it's made such an improvement for you, and agree with your sentiments! Sorry, those measurements don't make much sense without knowing the full process of the amp's setup. The amplifier (Audiotec-Fischer M5 DSP MK2), is fully programmable via a PC. As it's an inline speaker-level amp that allows upgrading without modification, it has the ability to be tuned to the car, both input and output. The measurements you're referring to show the output frequency response of the Skoda's standard stereo - the green stepped line in the top photo is front, second photo is rear, where you see the increase in the mid frequencies. The red line with the white dots is the amplifier's eq, which you then drag up and down to make a flat frequency response/output from the Audiotec-Fischer amp. Doing the above process made it sound much better, but it still doesn't sound as good as just running the front speakers, and I'm certain it's due to the position of that rear tweeter. Hope that helps explain it a little more clearly, and that it proves that Skoda have designed a fair amount of eq into those rear outputs causing the imbalance in sound. Cheers, Nick

I changed the internal Halogen bulbs for LEDs it takes standard W5W bulbs. Takes a few mins you just have to prise out the light unit with a trim removal tool or screw driver then replace the bulbs. I had a look at the Front Indicator bulbs and can't see how to get into them. There is a metal plate which sits directly over and behind the bulb holder on the passenger side and the same on the other side though also has the added issue that the Bonnet support arm is attached to the drivers side one. I couldn't get into the hex screws as needs a right angle screwdriver but with a very short shaft. Kinda gave up on it. I called my dealer and they said it was quite a major job and required the whole front of the car to be removed. Seems kinda OTT to change an indicator bulb. Hoping the don't blow out while I have the car. Hope this helps

I still have to update my avatar.

I bought a roll of one inch wide, sticky-backed foam tape. The foam is about 3mm thick. Lika dis: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121388027214?var=424692676835&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=424692676835_121388027214&targetid=1140163973249&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007237&poi=&campaignid=12125486765&mkgroupid=116380571266&rlsatarget=pla-1140163973249&abcId=9300482&merchantid=113583048&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1Z68sfSZ7wIVR7DtCh2xXA17EAYYBCABEgJTBfD_BwE I cut a section off the roll of about an inch by half an inch, removed the backing, carefully posted it in the gap and pressed it down using the adjuster. No more rattles. Ten minute fix. Hurrah!

So, update on the situation. I had my DPF manually cleaned and that seemed to solve to issue so far ( hadn't driven the car only about 100km). The soot mass measured doesn't go up anymore, and I've even had a passive regen for the first time ( yay). In about 50km the soot mass calculated only went up by about 2g. The people that cleaned the DPF said that it looks like there were a lot of interrupted regens from the previous owner by the looks of it and that's what it caused it to clog.

Thank you so much. The SD Card Formatter made my Anti Virus go crazy, but the Partition Master has worked. The SD card is not FAT32 and all files seem to be working. Thank you!

If you do decide that module replacement is the way to go, make sure it has exactly the same part number, as read off yours; and there's one other thing that it would be nice to check, preferably before paying anything to anyone for a secondhand one. There's a fault that sometimes occurs with a surface-mount capacitor on these modules. It may or may not be related to the relay contact failure, difficult to judge cause and effect I think. Its role seems to be to filter a feedback signal that tells the relevant microcontroller what state the relay is in. In extreme cases the capacitor nukes itself and causes a parasitic battery drain problem, either directly or indirectly. It's here on the board, and the board is pretty straightforward to 'unhouse' from the plastic case: This is a 'well cooked' example:

TBH, "If I knew then what I know now", I would not have removed the scuttle panels. My car's 8 years old in a few weeks and I've realised that the external plastics are somewhat brittle, and I damaged one of the scuttle covers. Each of the two covers are held down by a rubber seal forward of the windscreen and a rubber seal around the bonnet hinge. The fragile part is on the underside of the cover where it meets the windscreen, and comprises a moulded lip (actually a protrusion) that sits in a groove at the base of the screen. I don't have any pictures of the underside of the cover, but I've posted an image of the base of my screen showing the groove. I suspect the reason you are finding it hard to remove the covers is that like mine, yours are full of crud that's been washed off the screen. This acts to clamp the lip into the groove and if you pull to hard, as I did, then the protrusion snaps off. So my left scuttle cover has half its protrusion missing and is now held to the right side with a self tapper. So, what would I do differently? First, not remove the scuttle, and with it still in place I'd try to establish if I had a problem under that cover. Skoda calls that "the water box" and if I had my time over, I'd try to see if this was the source of my leak by pouring water in the drainage gaps, but colouring the water with food colouring. Then if you find coloured water in your cabin, you've got the source of the leak. Obvs something not to do if you have a cream interior carpet; mine are black! Second, to test whether I had a windscreen leak, I would just cover the trim at the sides and the top with PVC tape to stop rain getting in. If the leak stops, then you've found the source of the leak and you'll need your screen sealing. (I recommend that if you do that, experiment with the tape on an inconspicuous part of the body, just in case the tape adhesive is too strong and you end up with a car in primer...) The stuff I used to seal my screen is not a car product as such, but is a flexible mastic/adhesive made by Everbuild and sold under the brand name of Stixall. It's available in DIY sheds and from auction sites, and is applied with a gun as you might use for silicone sealants. To get to where the side of the screen meets the body and to force the Stixall in the gaps, you'll need to take off the two trim stips at the side of the screen. Again, you need to be careful as they might be as brittle as mine and are expensive to replace! At the top of the screen, there's a simple rubber seal that sits in a groove and mine came out easily and went back more easily once it had been lubricated by Stixall. If ever I needed a new screen, I'm certain that the installer will have their work cut out to clean all the Stixall off the body, but I'll cross that bridge as and when. The above is my story; there's no guarantee it will work for you. Caveat emptor and all that. Have a poke around THIS website: (http://www.ilcats.ru/skoda/?function=getModels&market=CZ&language=en) . They have exploded diagrams of the Superb, and I found the pages very handy when I was trying to find how the body went together. Stay Safe!

UNBELIVABLE. made more so with HOZZ saying he had his battery replaced after 4 years 11 months under warranty. because I complained about my battery for a while before the 100,000 extended warranty. The dealer put the battery on charge for me and said it was ok! that was November. In February in the cold spell I stopped at a petrol station and it would not start. Got home with a jump start and had Halfords replace the battery . Chap said battery was 0%. Car run smoothly since then but of course I had to pay as car now at 104,000 miles and out of warranty. So today the saga of the Engine Management light. I was given a quote for all the things needed including the defective unit for over £2K and of course it will be an MOT failure per new rules if not sorted. Cannot afford the £2K right now and was suggested I consider trading in. I decided to take car away and have a think with MOT ending MONDAY. Decided to take to a local garage and persuaded them to run the codes , clear them and see what happens. They did all that took the car for a 3 mile test drive and guess what? Yup no Engine Management light . I feel sick and this will be a divorce for me with the Skoda main dealer I am afraid. I have lost total trust. Clearly they did not clear the errors and see what came back. The errors likely came up when the battery failed and the new battery would not raise the faults.

Hope all is well...just picked up my new octavia vrs in Dublin and was not able to spec canton, sunroof or auto opening boot because of new emission laws in ireland the extra draw on the battery increases the co2..very disappointed i like the Canton sound system and always spec it...

Probably the electric motor/control unit (integral) which also controls passenger window. I'm finding this part on vehicles after Oct 2005 impossible to find. Anywhere.

I've also completed an OEM+ brake upgrade. This one's been a long time in the making! It all kicked off when I found a set of scruffy TTRS 4-piston Brembo calipers and 370mm discs in summer last year for a bargain price, but they were nasty! The calipers were sent away to be stripped and refurbished by Brake Caliper Refurbs (https://brakecaliperrefurbs.co.uk/) whilst I cleaned the rotors and polished the bells by hand. HEL supplied some braided lines specifically for the conversion. Before: After: On the rear are Golf mk5 R32 calipers+carriers with 310mm MTEC drilled discs to match the fronts. EBC RedStuff pads all round and ATE fluid. Due to a comprehensive lack of time (thanks in part to homeschooling and fatherhood in general) I enrolled the services of a good friend and Audi master tech who now has his own mobile workshop. So huge thanks goes out to Rob at RIO Autotech (https://rioautotech.co.uk/) who came out to me and went above and beyond to get the job done. Awesome work! Currently struggling under lockdown to get any miles on to bed it all in, but it looks the part and should provide a lot more stopping power and consistency when we're finally allowed out to play again!

Beautiful

Big moon

Just wait for a 2021 Sportline with 19” anthracite Triglavs and ask a dealer to swap them, provided that your rims have no damage. I presume that your rims have no damage since you put those bright blue rim protectors on.

Will 245/35/20 not work? Heaps of those at all range of prices and only 5mm extra each side?

i actually thought it looked smart, personal choice i guess