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A big thank you to Langers2k for the help coding my bcm lights configuration. Unable to do it with vcds. Now have front and rear drls. Both rear fog lights working and front fog lights. All working as factory spec. Very much appreciated.

Washed and waxed yesterday. I use turtle wax ceramic wash, 303 touchless sealant, and Bowden's own carnauba wax. It is super clean and super shine now.

133k on that car when sold, 21k with that spacer setup and even more with just 15mm on the back, 2x track days, a lot of B road blasting and it still had all original wheel bearings on it with no signs of wearing out when sold...

I think you have found your answer. Tyres will affect economy as they all have different grip levels.

Not worse. As filters become blocked your ecu will adjust the parameters to suit. However performance will drop and yes economy may increase slightly because the engine isnt running at full power. MPGs can be affected by air temperature, air pressure, tyre pressure, trye brand, wheels out of alignment, type of oil used in the engine, spark plugs incorrectly gapped or torqued, gearbox oil pressure, fuel quality, type of driving, road surface, road surface temperature etc. There are so many variables as to why the mpgs have gone down and up I have never worried about it or got hung up over it. Unless the car is running badly .i.e misfiring or being generally sluggish I wouldnt worry too much about decreased economy.

I know where the gear sign is. i never needed to pay attention to it where as my infoteinment is always set as Driving data and Displying Since Start mode. I am always concern about fuel consumption. well. I have just filled the tank couple of days ago to the full. i'll update this thread about proper mpg when i'll fill up the tank again.

Amazon have have a selection of Skoda caps . just remember and measure your old ones to get the right size 📏

Springs arrived and the toads are spawning

Road trip mode = Enabled

Putting a spacer on a Skoda wheel bearing will have no more effect than the OEM offsets that other cars in the VAG group use with the same (or sometimes smaller) wheel bearing (they are the same part number). They are the same MQB architecture and use offsets that mimic a Skoda wheel with spacer. They are designed like this and do not wear bearings any faster either. Some manufacturers (such as Porsche) have used spacers from the factory. For some reason Skoda wheels have always used high offset wheels that look tucked in. Skoda even used spacers on their show cars along with ratchet straps to lower the springs. The issue I have with spacers are they increase shear force on the wheel bolts (even hubcentric ones) and can result in bolt failure especially with the dubious extended bolts supplied with some of the ebay special spacers. I have seen it happen to supposed good spacers fitted correctly. It is why I pick an OEM wheel with a lower offset instead.

Do not worry about the DSG. Do not worry about the battery as the stop/start will disable it's self when needed. You have the choices for different situations / locations. In D and let stop/start work. Have auto hold work. If you want put stop/start off. If you did want the car stopped in N and the parking brake on you can do that. If you want it in N and the engine running have that.

So @J.R. was spot on with his prediction...

The Alu pedals and footrest from a golf r mk7 are perfect fit. Takes little time, just soaked the accelerator one in hot water to make the rubber more flexible to squeeze on. My example is RHD Skoda dealer told me there was a skoda option for RHD, quoted me £120 for pedals and footrest, then gave me a set of pedals without footrest for a superb mk2 after waiting weeks... AliExpress 30-something quid including postage and customs taxes which are prepaid upfront, job done. V happy. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLER5ix

To my fellow Kamiq owners - in my opinion, you/we are indeed very fortunate to have the privilege of experiencing this extraordinary example of engineering design and manufacture. The absence of any discernible vibration and the clever use of sound dampening make the Kamiq one of the most refined cars I've ever come across. And I've had 30+ at this point. The last being a 2018 Audi A3 S-line, 1.0 DSG, Saloon. That car couldn't hold a candle to the Kamiq in terms of refinement. But the refinement doesn't come at the detriment of the dynamics. Oh no. It is well able to hold its own on the motorway and on winding country roads. All together a brilliant package. So, if you are visiting this forum looking for input from Kamiq owners then I hope this contribution will be of assistance. One journalist said of the Kamiq: "This small SUV has no right to be so refined". That sums it up perfectly. Edit. 20/4/21 One small but I think notable observation: Be aware that on S and SE specs the passenger seat is not height adjustable. It has to be selected from the options list.

Collection day has finally come around and I’m super stoked to be a Superb owner at last! I only grabbed a couple of pics as I was hoping it would be light and dry when I got home to take more but it was neither. Here it is on the forecourt It’s a MY2020 Facelift Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 190 DSG with the following options Exclusive Dragon Green paint Supernova wheels Virtual Pedal Reverse cam with washer Spare wheel Virtual Cockpit All of which put the list price at pennies under £40,000 which is nuts considering what I paid and the paltry 6560 miles it had when I collected it this morning. The 260 mile trip home was fabulous and I look forward to a much quieter build thread compared to my Octy as it has so much spec there is little to do, but I’ll be sorting a few things for sure! Badges are a start and some cool lighting mods too. More soon

Would love to mate , i enjoy detailing but Hampshire is just a bit too far under Nicola's rules. Hampshire does sound nice , i did, years ago travel to Poole. Nice bit of the country and did some driving about to various other wee towns.

@automass Sorry but you make it hard work as you missed the most important fact. The boy that serviced the car could probably have told you about the change of tyres and possible change in fuel consumption.

Before servicing I bumped into the curve and damaged two of my left tyres. Tyres were all almost nearly touching the minimal thread though except one. so I got the tyres changed from the corner tyre shop of the place I live with a set of four (Budget tyre) around 3 or 4 days before servicing.

@automass You posted that you know it is 5w 30. So that is the same as VW504 00, as long as it is to that spec. 5w 30 Full Synthetic III. It took you long enough to mention the change of tyres. ? So when were they fitted?

Looks like credit card coming out! Thanks.

Wheel bolts are 120 Nm so it's not super tight, threadlock will be fine for peace of mind since you won't be needing to remove them again.

I normally used to get minimum 330 to 340 miles by 42 liters.

google 7zap, and go digging there for your part number then fleabay for a chinese pattern job. they are nominally about 30quid (last time i was looking for one, for an octy) and work just fine.

id put money on the lock module dying slowly.

I see. Check all ABS related fuses. If you're lucky one of them might have just blown.

D'oh! Quite right, apologies! That's what you get for posting at stupid o'clock in the morning! Oh well, if it's of any interest to anyway more generally, the CoC for the car will give the definitive answer as to whether it can tow or not.

These screws can be a pain, especially if you dive in there without suitable preparation. This is what they looked like when new: They're generally a Torx T25 tool fitment, and they're mostly a bit or a lot rusty, and almost always have grit and mud in the head recess. If you do nothing about the latter before attempting to undo them, the tool tends to slip, or you can rip up the head and make life more difficult than it ought to be. I tend to replace any that are badly corroded and like using this fella on ebay for such things. But before you can replace, you need to get them out. Things like an old toothbrush or a small wire brush can help, but both will struggle to get deep into the head recess where the grit and dirt are really in the way of the tool getting good purchase. So use a little pick tool instead. I tried this for the first time a week or two back and it works beautifully, getting right to the bottom of the recess, and into all the corners nicely. Anything similarly pointy should do, but these sets are available very cheaply on ebay/Amazon/anywhere. Suddenly the torx bit goes in about 2mm further and just releases the screw easily. Bloody obvious strategy in hindsight, but may be handy for anyone who has successfully evaded the bloody obvious to date.

I have also recently bought a pick set like yours but a long handled one, before I was using a sheet metal scribe to clear out the recesses in those fasteners or anything similar, it does indeed make a big difference and having a choice of dedicated pick tools has made an even bigger difference, I dont know how I lived without them for so long, same goes for the plastic trim removal lever tool sets.

Keep in mind that may say to you that you will need a new pulley too.

On average the books says it will use 0.5l of oil in 1000km. Or 0.8 of a pint to every 621 miles. Also if you do lots of short runs it will use more oil as the car will regen alot more and oil is burnt up during the regen phase.

Thanks Wino, I should have remembered that as we discussed it recently when i had a fault with that instrument cluster and I initially thought pin 1 could be the culprit : https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490180-blank-cluster-dash-display-and-immobiliser-killing-engine-wiring-help-needed/ So I have already reflowed all 8 pins there. I don't fancy trying to trace the wiring behind dash, so that just leaves trying to check it further up from the joined sensor wires in the wheel arch, or trying to get it disabled by someone. thanks for your help again, saved me heading off towards the ABS unit...

Yeah, don't worry about the air filter, just the remap will do it.

I think the OP means the Off Road driving profile.

Hill decent control

Hi, If you talk about "Off road mode" on the Columbus display, it can be activated using VCDS. Otherwise, I don't know what you're expecting (sorry, mainly because I'm not a native English speaker). By the way, what is HDC? Thanks.

You said vacuum and not hoover ❤️

Alibaba? I'm there must be a joke about forty thieves in there! tom

I bought cheap on Ebay a set of wheel centre caps for the winter wheels on my Yeti. The "worm" appeared very quickly. You pay your money and take your choice, However at 8.99 you are not chucking away a lot of money. tom

3V0035502 is the charge pad, need to check the rest.

Disclaimer: I bear no responsibility for your safety or seat comfort in case you decide to use information in this post! Some photos and more info for the tilt angle increase: The 2 front bolts are M10 x 50mm , https://www.mackay.co.uk/m10-socket-cap-metric-head-allen-hex-screws-fasteners.html you also need 4x M10 spring washers. https://www.mackay.co.uk/washers-spring-stainless-steel-nutsboltsscrews-fasteners.html Even though you replace only 2 front bolts, rear bolts also need spring washers for everything to sit securely and not come undone, as the angle has changed. The actual supports are 12mm thick steel, 25mm wide and 12mm high, cut to 45mm length, with a 10mm thick solid neoprene rubber laid on top. Steel goes at the bottom, rubber at the top to allow change in angle. https://www.mackay.co.uk/flat-black-mild-steel-metals-warehouse.html I got bolts, washers and steel from Mackay, though they are pricey for shipping. The nice thing about this shop is they cut your steel to order, so only drilling is required (pillar drill best for the steel and the neoprene). But feel free to use other suppliers. As I said earlier, I got short neoprene rubber strips from Ebay, search for solid neoprene rubber strip in about 25mm width and 10mm thickness. I would not go higher than 12mm with a neoprene rubber strip alone, you need steel underneath for support. You can see front lugs in the photo, they still are in the floor for a few mm. There are also rear lugs I think, closer to rear bolts. All in cost was about £15, plus drilling 4 holes (2 in steel and 2 in neoprene). Not much visible from top as there are plastic covers on rail ends, I had to put mobile phone right to the floor to make the photos. HTH Front supports: Front bolts with spring washers: Original rear bolts with added spring washers: Disclaimer: I bear no responsibility for your safety or seat comfort in case you decide to use information in this post!

that looks really straight and well looked after

Not sure when anyone said the 150PS AWD DSG 7 seater couldn't tow, since the title is about the manual version and not the DSG.

If it's windscreen damage it's likely a stonechip that's not in the driver zone? ETA: I had a rock break my windscreen and had it replaced, only for another rock to take a massive chunk out of the glass the very next week. It wasn't enough to crack it so I'm stuck with it for a while! On the sunroof there's an 18 month interval where you're meant to clean off all the old grease and reapply the same stuff again. Obviously nobody ever does that and for some reason the dealer never recommends it. You can buy the special grease and there is a DIY on the Audi Q7 forums, but I had my Pano roof replaced at 3 years after it started getting stiff and the mechanism started to make noises.

New Skoda owner here. Have been loving it except for some very serious discomfort in my right leg but I'm hoping this can be rectified somehow! Have posted about it here and have done a heap of reading. Fingers crossed. Here's my new beast. Such a nice car (if I can fix my discomfort issue). Fully opted minus the powered tailgate. From Australia BTW.

Just turned over the 200,000 mile mark. Had it's 1st clutch and DMF change at 198,000 miles and finally replaced springs all round as they've sank 20mm or so. DPF still in place and working fine though. Still going strong

Same here. I turn off the start/stop system and lane assist.

To use your words, - No offense but find someone else to play with please. Roof is undamaged, what the gloved hand is pointing at is a seperate panel, when rear 1/4 panel is portapowered back into alignment before removal and replacement it will probably lift the rear corner of the roof if it is pulled down, difficult to see from the photograph, at best there may be a PDR ding remaining, no filler or paintwork required to roof but the other panels will be painted anyway so no real problem. 100% it will be repaired and most likely the buyer will not even inspect it having seen all that he needs to like me from these photographs which are more detailed than before and bear out what I thought from seeing the others. It should be possible to disagree with others without insults or mocking, you asked questions in a very rude manner & nonetheless I replied to them politely, its a shame you were unable to reciprocate.