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This is my Superb Combi L&K MJ17 with quite a few retrofits and optical details.

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We bought our car as my wife's shopping car, mid range spec but with a few extras: heated front screen, factory fit tow bar, proper rubber mats front and rear as well as 4x4. The thought was I could use the Yeti for motorsport organising activities, as well as shopping, to "save" my SJ 413 which is now starting it's third time round the clock. Unfortunately she became ill after 9 months, and a further 9 months later died. The Yeti has turned 111k, a lot of off road stuff- including marking out a course for a 4x4 event at Bovington tank training area; quiet impressed as other more "off-road" vehicles got into difficulties. I'm old school, we bought the car cash from new, and intend to keep as long as possible. Any money spent on "repairs" will be cheaper than replacing at intervals. The car is still in A1 nick, handles really well for a boxy 4x4. To keep the weight down, the rear seats are permanently removed, and the boot space is full of marshalling/ recovery kit. I can't think of any car past or present that is such a good on/off road package - and it looks to be a future possible quirky "classic".

If you think the lights come on too soon, you can change this option in the lights section on the settings.

Bit more done.... I had the chance to buy a while ago a full set of Seat Surgeons leather trimmed door cards of a vRS the same age as mine. I'm in the minority that i only wanted the door cards, the impractical standard Fabia vRS cloth seats are part of the cars appeal to me, but the factory door cards are dull as ditchwater. Speaking of water as well, any car that has suffered from leaky rear door carrier seals will have watermarked cloth doorcards which are impossible to remove... so.... Here they are, deep cleaned and fitted. I have ordered today from TPS the drivers electric window switch surround and door pull surround as i think they are marked so new ones of those will be fitted soon. While the front door card was off i had chance to fit the door mirror that i had built up with the carbon dipped base. The carbon dipping that has been done so nicely by Bold Hydrographics will be the last carbon dipped items on the car as i'm sad to report that the man behind Bold, James Bowld died suddenly late last year, so i'm spurred on to get the car finished to show off his craftsmanship in his memory. A good friend he had become, so very much RIP James. Matt

If the EGR is clogged up, it might not be shutting off 100%, this is when DPF problems start to occur. I am only guessing that is why. Yes, fitting a blanking plate before getting it mapped or fitting an emulator will result in limp home engine mode.

Find the inlet manifold at the front of the engine. Just above the throttle valve you will find a silver pipe entering the inlet pipe. Trace the silver pipe back to the engine block, it's attached to the block with 2 bolts. Loosen the bolts & slip your blanking plate in. Retighten the bolts evenly to achieve a gas tight seal. That is the easiest place to fit it.

As above. I get you have the standard parts but to get the most views/enquiries it’s be best to return to standard yourself first. I’d personally scroll right past this car on Autotrader. The mods - to me - are undesirable and I will be in the majority thinking that.

I've spent the whole evening repairing the broken photobucket links through the whole thread, so ALL of the pics are now visible to all....

I'm not sure that I have the wiring on the other side from the single wet fart horn, I didn't find it during the front off repairs, wont be a problem for me if they are together.

I would never have a manual daily and once you have a DSG, you’ll never have a normal slush box again, it’s uncanny!

Excellent thanks, something I have been meaning to do for a long time!

I bought them a few years ago and only got to fitting them a few months ago so I've don't know the exact listing. I do know that I got them from either aliexpress, banggood or wish and they came packaged properly as a set. They only came out to 10 euro or so i'm pretty sure. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOELa6b That link goes to ones that look very similar in design and branding to the ones I bought. I can't remember what hz the horns were, but it does say on them what they are. They were dead easy to install, just cut the connector off for the stock ones and get some spade connectors for the end of the wires. Easy as.

Diamond alloys in Derby £240 and satin black

Do you have a link for the horns or what search term to use?

my droplinks went about a month after my arb upgrade - think it was the extra stress through them due to better cornering i was enjoying

Fingers crossed this is a sign that they may have corrected the problem. I'm still waiting to hear from them regarding my complaint a few weeks ago. I now have another complaint for them to sort out as the app on my phone has lost my car and won't allow me to re-register it. Hopefully they won't be to long and I can have another attempt at loading a route.

Hi, it was made a legal requirement for UK cars in November 2014 - possibly only a option for yours.

Thanks to all who contributed, I’ve just done mine. Brilliant mod!

So got a part number will order a new map sensor and hopefully all will be good. Thanks for the pointers and ideas!

I was the same Noms, and have a Phd in being ham-fisted Point nosed pliers or surgical clamps are your friend. I too could feel it and swill it around (enough to inspect it for any damage), but not do much else. Take your time, get it vertical and then manoeuvre it into the neck of the bottle. Once you can get hold of it with your fingers you can wiggle it free. There is a bit of resistance as you get it almost clear, but this is the seam of the bag needing to compress a tad. I was watching closely and was going to get a screwdriver to ease the seam through, but then a bit of upward pressure and it popped free. It's quite a strong plastic mesh, nowhere near as weak as a tea bag you make tea with. I took the view that if it did start to rupture, I'd immediately stop, isolate the tank and then remove the tank, carrying on once the tank is remote from the car. If I can do it, anyone can. Gaz

Hello @Andy730 - sounds like you have problem with the SD Card. It will need to be formatted in FAT32 format (and ideally using 4k block size) - head back to your PC - reformat the disk in FAT32 mode (right-click over the SD Card and Format). Under Format - it should give you either NTFS or FAT32. Select FAT32. Press Format.... When completed, unplug and replug back in the SDCard - then copy over the files again. Wait until all the files are copied across and make sure you properly UNMOUNT the SDCard. You can now go back to the car, re-insert the files and restart the upgrade process.

Thanks for all your advice. The manual drop switch is not in the boot. I checked that after seeing the video on line. There is definitely a bracket underneath to connect the tow hitch to but as far as i can see there is no wiring visible. I did try and price a tow hitch today but skoda weren't much help. What i will do is take the money and use it to buy the spare wheel and jack set which is something i will get far better return on. I was going to look at getting a wheel anyway. If i ever need to get a tow hitch i will revisit that in the future. In thirty plus years of driving I've yet to actually tow something so chances of it happening are probably low.

It also slows you down/speeds you back up when approaching a vehicle in adaptive cruise control.

Thanks for the info, I didn't know of camel. I'll have a look see. Just had a look at the link and I'll be using it in the future. Once again thanks.

The tyre tells you all you need to know about how the car has been looked after.

Almost certainly, mine was written off at 3 years old with zero visible body damage due to the airbag deployment, it still wears the original front bumper, unrepaired, unpainted and I would have to show you exactly where to look to see the minor scuff mark in the paint. The good news is that if you retain the salvage you will be able to replace the airbags & the ruptured dashboard, seatbelt pyrotechnics etc very cheaply, keep your cherished vehicle and have at least 60% of the insurance payout in your sky rocket. It cost me exactly £600 for a set of 3 airbags (steering wheel, dashboard & knee) a remanufactured dashboard (looks perfect 18 months later) seatbelts and the removal of crash data from the airbag module. Prices will probably be lower now.

Our 2016 110bhp 2.0 Tdi SEL is lovely. Coming up for 2 years with it now and was considering a replacement with petrol power due to a change in usage. I’ve bought a cheap android phone for dedicated VAG DPF use, so I can keep an eye on the soot and ash build up, but I can’t say that I’m that wild about a Karoq and the Kodiaq is still relatively dear to buy. So we’ll be keeping ours for a while longer and see how our new usage impacts soot/ash. First car for decades that has been named. Must be a Yeti thing.

Yes the switch can be changed in the box. You have picture from insight the shifter box in attach but to do that you have to disassemble whole central part in the car from the rear to the climatronic.

No issues on our MY19. Ordered some anyway on the 'Manchester Basis'. If you can't see across the street, it's raining. If you can see across the street, it's going to rain! Inevitably I will need them. I would rather pay a good price for good wipers than pay dealer prices for whatever Skoda supply. tom

lol you are special !!!

Hi, Thanks everyone for all your interesting replies. I have a couple of concerns in keeping our Yeti; how long before the electronics start to go wrong and given it's now value if it should ever be involved in a shunt activating the airbags; will it end up being scrapped because many excellent cars have ended up scrapped due to the cost of airbag replacement? In the meantime we'll enjoy our wonderful Yeti as long as we can. Yetis have great street presence; returning home from the supermarkets this morning I couldn't help but notice that our neighbours waved as we passed each other but their BMW;s; Merc's etc. all looked much the same and by the time I recognized them they were gone. There used to be many Skoda Roomsters but these have mostly disappeared now I only see the odd one? Kind regards, Colin.

Nope no squeaks, knocks or rattles at all. I'd have taken it back if they did, I'm super OCD! Go down a bumpy road and you'll know you're on them - it's not crashy though, just firm. Apart from that you wouldn't really tell at all, except for when you give it some stick and it's all so much better.

That’s great thank you, I missed that. Unusual that there’s no physical button like the mk3 or the Superb but migrating everything to the touchscreen seems to be the way forward from VAG thanks 👍

DCC paired with Eibach or H&R springs (with a 30mm or so drop) works really well. after putting Eibach ProKit springs in mine:- - DCC Comfort is now equivalent to wat DCC Normal was before - DCC Normal is now equivalent to wat DCC Sport was before - DCC Sport is now firmer than wat DCC Sport was before prior to lowering, i used to drive around with DCC set to Sport as it was bit too floaty to my liking in Normal. after lowering, i'm quite happy to leave DCC in Normal most of the time. the only time i change it to Sport is when i'm doing spirited driving through windy twisty roads one day, i'll replace my DCC shocks with the Bilstein B6 Damptronic shocks.

If your headlight looks like this.........H4 Looks like this.....H7

My impression, after driving my Mk 4 Octavia 1.5 eTEC for a week, is that the ACC will react to vehicles or objects that are not straight ahead (with some unhelpful results) only if you use it with lane assist turned off. Turn on lane assist, and it seems to react only to the road in front (in your lane).

My engine is 2.0 147kW petrol I bought the car quite recently, last oil change was done by previous owner, it's marked as 5W30, so I'd assume what I'm looking for is VW504 000 / 507 00, So 5w 30 FS III?

According to the manual there is no physical button for the heated windscreen.

The Karoq 4x4 uses 225/55R17 fitted to the same 17" specification rims as the Yeti, ie. 7Jx17 ET45 as shown in the chart below from wheel-size.com Skoda Karoq 2017 2.0 TDi 4x4 Tire Rim 225/55R17 97V 7Jx17 ET45 2.4 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2017/ The load index of 225/55R17 is higher than 225/50R17, so you can lower the tyre pressures by 3psi when fitting 225/55R17 compared to 225/50R17. It's easy to notice the improved ride comfort with a drop of 3psi.

Ones I looked at were all spelt incorrectly, won't deliver to UK and don't come on a template so will always look a bit off

If other Skoda dealerships are as bad as the one I bought my 67 Superb from, the brand is doomed! Soooo badly treated. To them, the customer's experience is unimportant.

Apologies. In my haste to avoid anyone else being left with an unusable app I neglected to say it was on the apple App Store and using iOS. Sorry for the confusion!!

Nine years ago next week I signed the order for our first Yeti, which was delivered five months later. I still have the original Yeti grin.

Unless you fit an EGR emulator/simulator then I believe that fitting a blanking plate will put your engine into limp mode as soon as it is started up.

As above, it’s a reminder that you should have your headlights on, and not be driving around in the dark with the parking lights on. Just put the headlight switch in the auto position and you won’t get this problem.

So I replaced (years ago) the two boot lamps and the removable LED torch with items from the Kodiaq (along with the Glovebox light). They are a higher Kelvin light (Cool White) and the two boot lamps are LED (not W5W bulbs as we have in our Superbs)... Genuine Part Numbers: LED Lamp - 8J0947409B (x3) / Connectors - 8W0971832 (x3) / Removable LED Torch - 3T0947417F9B9

Just had my Superb Mk III (2016) into my dealer who tells me the complete gear selector needs to be changed at a total cost of £758.40. I think I will leave it for the moment and see how it goes as it has only happened twice and cleared within 10 minutes.

The suspension parts were part of the overall improvements to the Octavia range, not just to the Scout. I know I saw reference to improved suspension in the FL brochures, but Skoda UK have removed all legacy info from their website. :-(

As per @ahenners No I went for Febi Bilstein ones. The Superskoda set came in about 50 euros including delivery and I read that they aren't quite as good. Would have taken longer to come too. The Febi struts are perfect in strength, they can lift the bonnet unsupported after initially lifting it. They slow before they come to a stop at maximum extension too. 2x Febi Bilstein 27709 struts. About £14 each from an eBay motorparts seller. 2x M8 ball joints with a 10mm ball head and 25mm thread length: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/x4-ball-extension 2x M6 ball joints with a 10mm ball head and 12mm thread length: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/x2-ball-extension Above ball joints came to a tenner with delivery. 2x M8 and 2x M6 washers. Bought from an eBay seller for a couple of quid. You also need an M10 spline bit to undo the bolt on the bonnet which I didn't already have. Painted the washers and ball joint bolts with a touch up kit I already had to make them blend in and look more OEM. Total cost probably about £42 but happy with the result.