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My car is still a long way off, so I am experiencing the steep learning curves of all the fellow owners on here. When my car finally arrives, I’ll be a Mk4 expert already!! 🤣🤣😎

The part number for Mk1 front speakers is 6Y0 035 411 D The part number for Mk2 speakers is 1Z0 035 411 C According to this they are the same speakers.... https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5l0035411j-bass-loudspeaker-skoda-14006.html

Mystery solved. I'm not going barmy, (well the jury is still out, but not conclusively - yet) and there was 'a thing', a foreign object, plugged into the port. The RAC chap pulled this out of it https://caristaapp.com/ I assume it was placed there during the last service. Re the engine management light - as happened before, it was a 'glow-plug' issue. RAC bloke thought that with the rapid drop in temp over the last 2 days (this morning it was -1 degree C up here), it triggered the light. He's reset it, via OBD, and restarted the engine. All seems fine, and the light hasn't come on again. Fingers crossed.

Same, never had an inner one fail. Mine's a 2003 and it has fixed metal collars on the anti-roll bar, so maybe a year earlier might have them. Worth checking. The splines of the CV joint are usually bonded to the hub from the factory. If they have never been off you sometimes need a hub puller as Wino said. I used one of these from Machine Mart....

Using the vehicle jack to get a car onto stands is not ideal. Without a central jacking point on the car, it needs to be lifted one side at a time and the car can shift sideways quite a bit during this process, more so as the height is increased. There is a very real risk of this sideways movement unsettling the jack and dropping the car off it, particularly getting it onto the second axle stand. I have a McAnax 3 tonne trolley jack with about 50 cm max lift, and more often than not if I'm jacking to higher positions, I'll have to go back to the first side and lift it a little again to get the axle stand solid on all three legs. The distance the jack moves during jacking is certainly enough to make the vehicle jack unstable if I were using that rather than the trolley jack.

Here's what I think......... The questions the OP is posting "suggest" he's not an avid DIY'er or regular mechanic... Wheel jacks are inherently "unstable" because the base is fixed and the vehicle "moves" away from the jack when jacking, this is where it becomes even more "unstable", this is "ok" when your just changing a tyre etc which is what it's designed for as you don't need to go that high to accomplish the task.................to get the vehicle up on axle stands will most likely involve going a lot higher which = more instability....................the movment "away" from the jack as you lift is somewhat compensated by the wheels on the trolley jack allowing it to move with the vehicle as you lift. A trolley jack as a larger base and 4 points in contact with the ground. I agree with the axle stands, that's I would hope common sense to not work under an unsupported vehicle however you get it up there. I have no doubt those with lots of experience working on vehicles could use the wheel jack to accomplish lifting it onto axle stands............however there is a risk, it is unstable at the best of times and "imo" not something those without any experience should be doing, a trolley jack is by far the best and safest option for all concerned.

Next job on the list is to try and bring some life to the paintwork. As you would expect for a car with this one's history and mileage (162k) it's seem plenty of abuse and paint. In the initial pictures I posted it looks clean, but it's not. Here are some pics after I washed it. Plenty of ground in grime. Time to get out the claybar and cutting compound.

Found it....... Windows 7 laptop and googly bailing out my windows 10. What a way to spend my bank holiday ffs. Hopefully it will update properly now and without wasting a lot of my data. I may need to upgrade my data allowance. it seems that Win10 likes a lot.

I also managed to track down the roof light bar, exactly as originally fitted. It's a Whelen Edge 9000 with front stobe lights and rear red halogen lights. I intend to have this full functioning.

I think the pollen filter was due a change 🤢🤮 I replaced with a genuine one that I sourced cheaper than an aftermarket one from ECP, but noticed it was made by Mann.

Works for me, thanks @ShEfA @TheUltraRunner - Deactivating ACC by pushing the third (ACC) column stork away, beyond the spring to cancel it turns off the ACC symbol in the virtual cockpit - and shows the total mileage

Let me introduce you to my project, hopefully you find it interesting. It's a ex Leicestershire Police MK1 VRS, 160k miles and a total shed! (Don't be fooled by the photos of the outside, they make it look much better then it is). I've been looking on and off for the last 10 years for one of these, from the time the early ones first started to be retired from service. My plan was always to preserve one in its original police spec, and that's what I hope to do with this. My plans are to get this back to a decent useable car first, while researching it's police history. I'd like to be able to use it without fear of catching the plague from its disgusting interior. I need to strip this out to dry it out as it's got the usual soggy footwell. I'll try to keep this thread up-to-date but it will be a slow process as I don't get much free time to work on the car. Anyway, enough waffle, here's a few pics of the car in service and also what it looks like now. If anyone happens to have any pics of the car either in service or when it was retired or knows the car and can share any history on it that would be appreciated. Credit for the in service photos goes to their owners on Flickr and Facebook

During lockdown I went back to my favourite go-to TV show and watched all 57 episodes again from start to finish. When we got eased a bit in July I thought I'd go and have a scout out for some of the filming locations, and the results are here with my Fabia standing in for the CI5 Fords wherever possible! I shan't put any of them without the car up as that might be stretching the point, but I've now got about 5 days out mapped and ready to go before we even think about going into London. Lutman's Haven is a little side road that was used for a shot of Bodie and Doyle heading to a motorcycle scramble in the episode Wild Justice... Just around the corner from this spot is the old Seven Stars pub in Knowl Hill, where the bikers met in the same episode, Wild Justice, before going off to the competition. It's now a private residence. One of my all-time favourite episodes is Blackout, where a girl with amnesia may have information to help prevent a terrorist attack. They take her to a 'hospital' which was - and remains - the Holiday Inn at Maidenhead! In the same episode, Blackout, the CI5 boys take the girl on a road trip to see if anything triggers memories about the planned terrorist attack. They stop at a little garage for ice creams and innuendo. Fuel pumps have gone and a dealership is on the property now. About half a mile away in the village itself, the girl in Blackout lets out a squeak and they stop. She remembers the timbered house on the green. Makes things easier to spot! And the last one with the Fabia for now, at the end of the episode 'Foxhole on the Roof' they discover that there has been a 'Mr. Big' involved in the plot to hold a hospital to ransom. Doyle goes off to raid his house, which is on a farm near Fairoaks airfield... Yes, it's probably a bit batty. I should probably limit my emissions and stay at home. But these lovely spots were all within a few miles of where I live and I've done less than a third of my annual mileage this year! Hope you like them, anyway.

Well the day finally arrived and the house in which I had a 40% stake completed today. Most of the money will be reinvested in our current home but I persuaded the other half that my 2010 Honda Civic had seen better days. So just 90 mins later I collected my red vRS that I had secured a few days earlier 😀 It’s the facelift hatchback model, oil burner, on a 67 plate and as far as I can tell completely stock apart from a spare wheel - where these standard? I would just like to say hello to everyone, no doubt as being new to Skoda ownership I shall have a few bone questions over the next few weeks as I get used to the car.

Thats a rip off for a cloned key, at that price you could have had the job done properly by a main dealer with a specific key cut with the RFID chip programmed ordered from VAG, doing it that way if the lost key ever resurfaced into the wrong hands it would not start the vehicle. Cost is €240 in France on a 7 day turnaround with the 30 minute workshop programming time included. My cloned key cost £60ish from a Lithuanian on E-bay working out of the front room of his London flat.

Are they currently the same - 1 white, 1 yellow spot on both sides of the car? VIN won't do anything in 7zap as it's not official and not connected to anywhere that knows anything about your VIN, AFAIK.

I have used Auto Solutions Auto Locksmiths in Huddersfield previously. As Wino said, this won't be cheap, but an independant may be considerably cheaper than the main dealers. There are also many advertising key cutting/coding on FB Marketplace.

Just to let you know, I'm a little over 6'3" tall and have no headroom issues with my 2019 Sportline Plus that has a panoramic sunroof. Not even sure I have it all the way to the lowest setting and I drive with a very upright position as well. If you want, I can grab a tape measure tomorrow and get measurement of the distance from the seat cushion to the roof.

I think you should persevere with the steering wheel buttons. From experience of similar functionality on other cars, the “skip” ratio starts fairly slow for smaller adjustments, but the longer the buttons are held down, the increments speed up rather rapidly until you are literally skipping minutes at a time. could be worth a revisit?🤷🏻‍♂️

Well, I'm gonna have to look into this a bit more................... not today though. I thought I had sorted it as had found and unchecked the (unnecessary IMO) check box and I'm sure I restarted the laptop too, and kept my fingers crossed, or maybe I should have kept them crossed. However, the updates still wouldn't complete the update and final nail in the coffin was the internet connection dropped out again . Thanks @stratosg. I will look into what you mention later. my dongle is 802.11 but not sure the GHz or where to find this out.

.A few years ago I had to replace my antiroll bar. Replacement later antiroll bars are fitted with two fixed metal collars to keep it located in its correct place

True. A standard jack on a solid non wobbly support is no more unstable because of the height. There is one problem though, if you use the highest spacer & then try to lift the weight of the car with the jack near to its closed position the geometry will overload it and at that point you will find out why the acme threaded nut is plastic with two shear lugs, very early VAG versions from the 80's & 90's used a metal nut and the side frame would deform releasing it under overload. You get plenty of warning that you are overloading it as you really have to put a lot of force on the crank handle, the higher the jack lifts the less it is stressed. As Sepulchrave has stated its a much safer lift because it can pivot whereas a trolley jack has to roll and often the surface precludes it. The danger with the standard jack is if the vehicle can roll forwards or backwards, an inexperienced person will not realise the need to chock the opposite wheels in both directions, the handbrake may only be working on the side that you are lifting off the ground. Needless to say a flat level firm surface is the safest.

My favourite US modern that's not a sports car.

Small Update on my end. Decided to keep to the 288 on the front and 272 on the back after receiving reassurance that the new setup has a lot stopping power than my current OEM setup, money back guarantee and all that jazz. I'm happy about this considering that the brake caliper carriers needed for the 312 on the front would have added around 350e to the total cost. Zimmermann Sport Drilled Discs and Textar Pads. I'd like to ad that here Textar pads are a bit.. ~5% cheaper than ATE (which I normally use) but according to my mechanic they make a better paring with Zimmermann Sport Discs. I shall return with pics and my thoughts on the new setup. All and all is gonna run me around 500e which I think is a bargain and hopefully it gets me the results I'm looking for and the confidence to remap. Thank You everyone for the stellar attitude and great information

Hi wino no leaks and no other faults reported by vcds only the p0172 will take it for a drive after lunch hook vcds back up and see what i find. Being bank holiday monday might take it a run up the motorway a few junctions and back again😁

That's an aftermarket hid burner to fit a H7 halogen light unit. A replacement is probably something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNLIGHT-H7-HID-Xenon-Replacement-Bulb-2-Bulbs-Headlight-35W-50W-AC-Metal-Base-UK/331468780437?hash=item4d2d143395:g:0hMAAOSwwbdWQx6g&redirect=mobile

I feel your pain with the ‘richness’ of the infotainment system. I moved for a Mk2 Superb which had the then basic Swing radio and a CD player, no SatNav, and basic AirCon The Mk4 Octavia is a world apart, but after a few weeks am getting to grips with it and I’m sure you will too. There's lots of helpful people on here too - for example, the other day I 'lost' the odometer, and somebody pointed me in the right direction.

Hi, just have mine for a month, but used it in both rain and snow. I would not go with a hatch without a viper, water from the roof is flowing all the time so im happy that i ticked that option.

If I have to choose an engine,I would probably prefer a V8.That was a big reason why I bought my Chrysler 300 HEMI.

8V0 615 125 A (left) 8V0 615 126 A (right) All parts listed HERE Strange as my 2.0TDi came from the factory with 312mm front, If yours came with 288mm then certainly upgrade to 312mm

Thank you very much. Do I get a prize? Love the term necroposter

W10 has a habit of setting by default the option to power down the WiFi if it hasn't been used for a period, worth searching out that option and making sure it's not ticked.

Well, I prefer the De Soto to the Dodge, but I'm staying with the idea that US cars are better with 8 cylinder engines! (or V10s in the case of a Dodge Viper)

Remember a few years ago when Arran got hit really badly in spring? ISTR it was several feet of snow on roads between hedges. Started to snow heavily here again, I might well get to see how the 4x4 side of my Karoq behaves without the magic glue that is on winter tyres! PS And re lambs, hope the little new born lambs I was running past yesterday are OK, this will be a shock to their system!!

While the arch liners were out I discovered what I think is the mounting point for the siren. I don't believe these two holes in the front n/s chassis leg are factory can anyone confirm?) , also there is a spare white wire cut into the cars horns while would make me think the went to the siren

I have had mu Octavia Combi iV+ for just under a week now, and have had a change to drive it in the city, small roads in the countryside and a longer trip on the motorway. It's my 3rd Skoda, and after having been completely content with the two before, I have to say, that I have quite mixed feelings about this one. As a car, I think it performs very well. The hybrid system functions just as it is supposed to, the DSG-gearbox works very smooth, it handles well in general and have all the power needed. The interior is nice and comfortable. But the infotainment system is a shamble. If it worked flawlessly it would have been quite OK. But it doesn't. In the way of stability it resembles a cheap chinese toy - not a 45.000€ car. Anyway - since the car in itself is very good, I shall stick with it for now, and hope that updates will take care of the software issues.....

An emphatic yes! I use mine all the time. When it isn't raining heavily, the water drops stay on the glass and pretty soon, you can't see out. Heating it doesn't help. I am surprise it not already on your car. My Mk IV First Edition came with it fitted. It's free but you have to tick the option box, so I have been told.

Speaking from a Mk3 POV, my rear wiper has been used once. And that was when the dealer tested it during a service. The shallow hatch shape renders it pretty useless. IMO anyway. I wouldn’t be losing sleep over not having one.

Might I suggest that if you press and hold MENU, then go into the Version information, take a photo of the information presented on the screen - there maybe a fix to the slightly dull sound by a firmware update. There are lots of options to enable - including enabling Skoda Surround.

Welcome First of all I never had a problem with the 312mm/272mm that car comes with it has been fitted to most Golf GTi/GTD with no problem. Personally I have never found any of these so-called performance discs worth the bother. I also stick to plain old ATE road pads, which unlike many 'performance pads' work well straight from cold. First thing I do is re-dress the pads, clean and re-lubricate the pad seats and sliders then see how the brakes are If you want better brakes then the best option is to go for is a combination of 340x30 front disc and caliper (as per vRS Golf 7R S3 etc) you can also use the earlier front ATE caliper off the R32 but it is heavy 310x22 vented rear disc from (caliper has to be from the MK5 Golf R32 because of the manual handbrake)(dust shield from 8v Audi S3) That will bolt on and give you more braking power than you will need but it will sap a fair bit of your 150bhp just to turn them and the front does become a touch more crashy with the weight of those 340s. Lastly check the spell-check on breaks

Do you have pressure in the hoses or cold spots in the lower coolant hose. Have you checked your oil for contamination from a head gasket issue. The other item I’d look at would be water pump. do you have heat from the heaters?

@tweenster. Have you driven a 1.6 ST yet. The overboost does at times mean that it should walk all over a vRS. Just a shame it is so short lived. They are on tyres that are not as rubber band as on the Skoda. Truth of the scores on the doors is actually when putting them head to head though. The big difference is not the official figures. The manual box is the big difference. Obviously when many around my area had 1.6 ST,s bought new the driver's might not have been able to get the best performance out of them.

April fool.

I believe some versions are slightly different but on my 2016 Octavia I used this: VCDS coding required:- From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] Select 19-CAN Gateway [Select] Check Protocol (Top Left) = UDS On right hand side off screen under Advanced Functions - Select Adaptions-10 [Select] From USD Adaption Select Channel Select drop down choice menu at top and scroll down too the following four channels, selecting each in turn and inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity, IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology, IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer, IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number, OLD Battery Capacity 69 Ah Technology EFB Manufacturer JCB Battery Serial Number 1111111111 NEW Battery Capacity 70 Ah Technology Binary-AGM Manufacturer VAO Battery Serial Number 1111111112 (increment by 1) gregsko

And a 1941 De Soto with a 3,7 Litre 6 -cylinder engine.Fully restored engine.

thanks for the responses @chimaeraand @PipH The RAC man disconnected the battery then drained whatever was lurking in the system, and put the battery back in and it was fine. plenty of erroneous error codes needed to be cleaned up from the system and the car is back to being awesome again. the most likely cause would have been when i put the battery back after a charge it created a spark and that sent the system into some sort of meltdown. i didn't know, but when removing a battery the black comes off first then the red and when putting back on, red goes on first then the black, making sure one carefully insulates the black as much as possible during this. so all probably my fault, but resolved now.